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Question Baffled; Why Are My Framerates So Low with my 2080 TI?

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Falkyron

Falkyron

Mar 20, 2019
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0
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CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K CPU @ 4.20GHz, 4201 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 4 Logical Processor(s)
Motherboard: Z270X-Gaming 9
Ram: G.Skill TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (4x8GB) 288-pin DDR4 SDRAM
SSD/HDD: 1TB SSD
GPU: EVGA Geforce RTX 2800 TI FTW3 Ultra Gaming
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G2 120-G2-1000-XR 80+ GOLD 1000W Fully Modular
Chassis: Phanteks Ethoo Luxe
OS: Windows 10 64 bit
Cooling: NZXT Kraken X52 240mm

I've replaced my 980 TI with a 2080 TI due to my games slowing down to ludicrous levels. I couldn't understand what was going on, but decided it must be the age of the card. I'm seeing no improvements. I have no idea what to do.

Examples:
Running 35 FPS in Starcraft 2 on 'high quality'. Not ultra or extreme, just high. This is just messing around in campaign, confused about performance. Campaign usually runs at much higher framerates than online. Hard to think of what coop or multiplayer would be like.
Staggers while turning in Borderlands 2, again not even set to anything like ultra. Just high. I turn my FOV and framerates drop. Joined a game with two friends and couldn't handle it. Scoping in with a rifle and trying to move my sights to aim was actually causing a headache.
Slows down running Supreme Commander vs AI with only 500 unit cap a short time into the game. Not even multiplayer. Using FAF with its optimization, too.
DDO chokes and stammers all the time. Extremely old game. Combat logs removed (this is a major performance anchor in that game) but it's still chugging slow.

Tried running Afterburner. Scanned and overclocked it conservatively, basically no difference.

Rise of the Tomb Raider was showing 45 FPS score in its benchmarking. Turned hyperthreading off out of curiosity and the loading times became outrageous between benchmarks, but this improved to about 70 FPS on high settings. This is again completely baffling. Games which should run just fine just aren't.
 
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Well, first things first. Monitor everything. Try out a well known benchmark like Firestrike and see how you compare to others with similar hardware.

What are your CPU temperatures like? Fan/Pump RPM? GPU Temperatures?

NZXT Kraken X52 240mm, how many hours has this been run? Pump RPM is no guarantee of actual water flow, and AIO tend to fail oddly. Step one to troubleshooting an AIO that doesn't seem to be pumping is to give the chassis a good rotation in as many directions as possible, preferably with the system running, to see if there is an air bubble trapped somewhere.

Drivers wiped and reinstalled for both the GPU and motherboard? BIOS updated?

And really weird behavior can sometimes be caused by bad power supplies. So if you have anything else to test with, give that a try.

And of course, there is always Windows. If you have some time you can try a Linux distro and see if you see similar results in benchmark tools.

This doesn't sound like the problems others faced with early 2080Ti since you report similar issues with your 980Ti. But there were some bad ones in the first few weeks, it is possible you ended up with one that was still on the shelves.
 
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I'll respond with what I can ASAP.

Eximo said:
Well, first things first. Monitor everything. Try out a well known benchmark like Firestrike and see how you compare to others with similar hardware.
Click to expand...
8933 in regular Firestrike. http://www.3dmark.com/fs/18798324

Eximo said:
What are your CPU temperatures like? Fan/Pump RPM? GPU Temperatures?
Click to expand...
CPU runs constantly at 99-100 degrees with even a peep of stress. I've replaced it and Intel keep telling me that's the temperatures they expect. I'm in disbelief at this. I haven't seen the card go over 45 degrees in practice but it hit 60 degrees in the benchmark.

Eximo said:
Drivers wiped and reinstalled for both the GPU and motherboard? BIOS updated?
Click to expand...
Graphical drivers yes, motherboard and BIOS no. Can updating the motherboard and BIOS help significantly with this?

Eximo said:
And really weird behavior can sometimes be caused by bad power supplies. So if you have anything else to test with, give that a try.
Click to expand...
I replaced the power supply along with the card.

THEearthISFLAT said:
what res?
Click to expand...
1440
 
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Well Intel is bullshitting you. 100C is not normal with a 7700k. Especially at stock. Especially with a 240mm water cooler.

"Maximum turbo core clock 2,500 MHz " That is not right at all. Should be 4.5Ghz.

What is the CPU core voltage getting to under load?

For example I am running 1.416 core at 5Ghz. At 4.2-4.5Ghz that CPU should only be pulling 1.25-1.3 volts. Keep in mind I have de-lidded the CPU and running a full custom loop with two 280mm radiators.

I suspect your default config is pulling way too much voltage. A BIOS update might help with the defaults, but you should really have control of that yourself.

Try a fixed core voltage of 1.25 and see how that goes.

Either that or your CPU cooler pump has failed, or is making poor contact with the CPU.
 
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Okay, here's an update.
I installed the latest BIOS for my PC and went in to look at the fan speeds. It was set to 'Auto' with '1.200' next to it, though I'm unsure how significant that was.
I manually changed Auto to 1.25 by holding space (I have a Corsair mouse that refuses to work in BIOS). This resulted in the motherboard no longer even lighting up or booting. I turned the PC off after a while along with the switch at the back to power cycle it and the PC started and restarted itself several times, including the motherboard losing its RGB settings, and started up.

Since then the temperature has dropped from always 99/100 degrees to ~92/93 and jumping sometimes to 98. I'm unsure if I should somehow set it back to auto and try to get figures when it is running?

I've also noticed something interesting. The BIOS seems to think the case is open, and when I looked in Smart Fan 5 it only shows CPU OPT fan as running (1268 RPM) and detects the temperature as a constant 100 degrees. It doesn't seem to think any other fans have any RPM. I don't know what that means, or if Smart Fan 5 isn't relevant due to liquid cooling.

Edit: Launched 3D Mark to have a look and before I even started anything but its interface it's at 99 degrees again.
 
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Update: Went into the BIOS and the voltage is being shown at Auto again. It seems to have reset the setting. I've checked and Reset Case Open Status is at Disabled. Toggling it does nothing. The BIOS seems to believe the case is always open.
 
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Celsius. I'm not very savvy with hardware so I had some help putting it together. I didn't purchase any fan splitters so I'm pretty sure they're plugged right into the motherboard. We had the temperature in the room go up due to having a heater on and the computer slowed down dramatically, plus hyperthreading being turned off gave a performance improvement when I hear it can cause increased heat. I'm beginning to think this must be heat-related but diagnostic software from Intel keeps telling me that it running at 99 or 100 degrees is expected.
I was sure that's not normal and requested a replacement. This is actually a replacement CPU sent by Nvidia and it's also running the same way. I took it in to professionals before and they told me it's all installed and running fine. I'm getting really frustrated.
 
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Falkyron said:
Celsius. I'm not very savvy with hardware so I had some help putting it together. I didn't purchase any fan splitters so I'm pretty sure they're plugged right into the motherboard. We had the temperature in the room go up due to having a heater on and the computer slowed down dramatically, plus hyperthreading being turned off gave a performance improvement when I hear it can cause increased heat. I'm beginning to think this must be heat-related but diagnostic software from Intel keeps telling me that it running at 99 or 100 degrees is expected.
I was sure that's not normal and requested a replacement. This is actually a replacement CPU sent by Nvidia and it's also running the same way. I took it in to professionals before and they told me it's all installed and running fine. I'm getting really frustrated.
Click to expand...
The case comes with a fan splitter. In bios what fans are listed as running ?
Use hardware info to check temps and screen shot them so we can see all the data, try to do this in a game or under load .

HWiNFO - Free System Information, Monitoring and Diagnostics

Free Hardware Analysis, Monitoring and Reporting. In-depth Hardware Information, Real-Time System Monitoring, Reporting & more
www.hwinfo.com www.hwinfo.com
 
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Ok, even though you’re not too into the hardware side of things you are going to have to roll up your sleeves and do some investigating to solve this. No two ways about it. But, don’t worry, you’re on Tom’s and the collective mind is here to help.

So, at some point you swapped the CPU, right? What thermal compound did you use when doing so?
 
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I've contacted a technician I know IRL and I'm bringing him in on the conversation. I'll be bringing it to him tomorrow and he's going to check how it runs with fan cooler instead to diagnose whether the liquid cooling is at fault. He wants to test whether replacing the thermal paste will help, as he has a better brand to try.
I believe the CPU is plugged into the motherboard and the rest of the fans are on a splitter. The BIOS doesn't detect them as having RPM but they're obviously running. I'll get a screenshot for you shortly of the temps.
 
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No Stress:

vzwsj9.jpg


------------------

Stress:

ejtqbd.jpg
 
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Falkyron said:
I've contacted a technician I know IRL and I'm bringing him in on the conversation. I'll be bringing it to him tomorrow and he's going to check how it runs with fan cooler instead to diagnose whether the liquid cooling is at fault. He wants to test whether replacing the thermal paste will help, as he has a better brand to try.
I believe the CPU is plugged into the motherboard and the rest of the fans are on a splitter. The BIOS doesn't detect them as having RPM but they're obviously running. I'll get a screenshot for you shortly of the temps.
Click to expand...
The other fans being on the splitter will only register as one fan as you use 1 fan header for control and monitoring.
Can you please use the program I linked as it shows voltages and so much more information ?
If you could also take some of the bios settings under cpu , the should be a option cpu upgrade which is a auto overclock feature make sure this is off .

Edit changed setting name
 
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nqxzf7.jpg


I've looked around in the BIOS extensively. Unless I'm blind there seems to be no obvious auto-overclock option. Thanks for helping me out everybody, I appreciate this. This has been driving me bonkers.
 
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Falkyron said:
nqxzf7.jpg


I've looked around in the BIOS extensively. Unless I'm blind there seems to be no obvious auto-overclock option. Thanks for helping me out everybody, I appreciate this. This has been driving me bonkers
Click to expand...

Looking at the voltage and clock that should not be reaching those temps.
I agree that it is a cpu cooler, contact or wiring connection issue .
 
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Well the CPU is protecting itself with low voltages due to thermal throttling, but I would not turn on the computer until the problems with the cooler are fixed because as stated there is definitely something wrong (bad pump, bad cooler contact, bad/incorrect fan/pump connection, etc). After that is fixed, you'll find out if the CPU is running normally again, or not.
 
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Hi everybody. I wanted to ask if in your opinions these readouts seemed about what is expected? I also wanted to thank everybody for your help. You've all been incredible. Thank you everybody.
 
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It appears to be running great. I'm hoping the CPU hasn't had any depreciation in power as a result of these issues, but so far things seem to be a lot better.
 
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