Best Smart Lock

jecann

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Dec 7, 2016
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So, my wife wants to replace our front and back door locks. Of course, I started researching smart locks.

I'm not sure what smart lock would be best for me because I don't have a smart home hub, but I do have some smart home devices, so I want to make sure I choose the most compatible smart lock, while being the most compatible with the devices I already have. Also, I want the lock to be durable so that it doesn't start to look warn in 2 years.

The devices I already am using in my home are:
WEMO Smart Light Switches (controlled by WEMO app)
D-Link Water Sensor (controlled by mydlink home app)
Also, I want to add the ECOBE4 Thermostat.

Any suggestions on what smart lock to buy and how to make all this work simply?


Thank you,

John
 
The vast majority of "smart locks" are easily defeated; even more so if they "work simply" because that means they have to use insecure methods of installation to make it simpler for the masses.
The bluetooth ones are a little safer but there are plenty of bluetooth hacks.
The wifi ones are way worse because in order to design it for the masses to easily setup, it has to use the most insecure connection methods.
Out of what is out there, the ones connected to smarthubs are the least insecure.

There is a very big difference between a smarthome and a house with a bunch of wifi "smart" devices.
A smarthome thinks in the realm of activities; it senses the powering on of a device, or a sensor telling it something and then it does a bunch of pre-programed activities. A smarthome with a hub will then need 1 app to control all devices. It is much more time consuming to setup but the level of ability is near limitless.
While with wifi "smart" device it thinks in the realm of devices: you can individually turn things on and off (usually requiring 4-5 apps for the mix and match devices).

I made my own wifi garage door opener with a raspberry pi. Since everything is local, requires you to be on my secure wifi network, know the device IP and port number, and know the username/password this is way more secure then any smart-lock on the market.
 


Both responses I have so far suggest not using a smart lock for security reasons, so maybe that is what I do. If anyone was any other thoughts I would be happy to hear. Thank you all!
 
AS AN FYI, i posted in another thread about my wifi connected NEST outdoor camera

was talking to a client who has two companies, one of which works with gov't agencies in surveillance. When i mentioned the NEST camera, he replied "when we find a "target" has a NEST camera or device, we're happy. Easiest of all devices to hack into."

I hadn't realized hacking was that common a technique or employed - what the first poster said about key lock - X2

fwiw
 
I have a front door keypad deadbolt thing.
Specifically NOT WiFi or bluetooth.

I don't want the door to unlock simply because I walked near it with the phone in my pocket.
Fingers on the numpad only. No smartness at all or desired.

And even then its a bit glitchy.
The 30 second autolock is 'sometimes'.
 


It is comical how many people buy these "smart" cameras and put them in their living room not understanding that many people have already hacked into that kickstarter companies web server and are pretty much live streaming everything they do for the internet to see.

1984/big brother had it completely wrong; you don't force surveillance - you get the public to buy it and install it themselves.
 


its not just homes either, i laugh whenever i see a ford or other car commercial showing how you can start a car with a phone app

 


I have a 4 camera+DVR system. All wired PoE cameras, and the LAN port on the DVR is curiously empty...:)
The only time it is actually connected is if we're on vacation for more than a couple of days.

WiFi cameras? Not even a little bit.
 
i'm going to be selling the NEST real soon, but have been looking into wired PoE cameras, and it seems NVR is the way to go, creates it's own subnet sane as your dvr setup - now the question, IF i connect it to the router to be able to transmit motion alerts, am i giving someone a pathway into my computer - and i suspect the answer is yes

but those motion notifications are damn nice, and i wouldn't have to set up a monitor specific to the NVR
 


Had a 2014 fusion with factory remote start....the range was so bad it was useless at any more than 20ft away.
Cellular might be the only radio technology they could figure out how to use to get more range then a 7yr old throwing a football.

It is pretty scary though when the only thing preventing the remote start and bcm computer from controlling throttle, brakes and steering is software (cough cough dodge). Its completely safe now though because sprint blacklisted the port that the hacker used
 


If connected to the router, and if a port is open....yes, you are giving a pathway to the interior.

And I have found the motion detection worse than useless. 3 hours of emails showing a spider spinning her web caused me to turn that off right quick.
2fDaEZk.jpg
 


As soon as the camera system is connected to anything with an internet connection then there is a pathway.

Now with that said it is all about threat vector. When you buy the "smart home" cameras where you plug it in, press a few buttons and bamn you can see it on your phone, well there is a lot of things that the camera has to do in order to make it just work without you setting a static ip, port forwarding, ddns address and having to set that all up on your phone.. Not to mention many of these devices use WPS instead of a normal password to connect to your router which is easy to hack. All of these things make the device itself much less secure.

Then you throw in the fact that you are using that company's web server to access your camera feed. With your home setup, they hack into your setup and they get your cameras. WIth the company's web server, they hack into that and they get thousands of cameras.

So by using your own IP cameras plugged into an NVR (or computer using NVR software), you have greatly cut down on the thread vector. Then you can take it further and limit incoming/outgoing traffic to only the ports needed, and even better put the NVR on a separate subnet/VLAN and that way it cant just talk to the other computers on the network. All of these things require a little more knowledge and setup but at that point it takes a fairly skilled hacker to break through, skilled enough to where their time/services is more valuable then anything they would have to gain financially from you.
 


Thanks, i basically understand what you described, but not network literate enough to implement it - got a buddy that is network ip configuration knowledgeable that's going to help when i've got the cameras and nvr here
 



doubt this will help you, but Blue Iris software does a heck of a job giving me motion detection sensitivity adjustment, both in motion and size of the object - where the Nest software gave me 10-20 alerts a day, even from shadows moving when the wind blows thru the trees, i get one false alert once in awhile with BI when this giant moth about 3" flies up to the camera attracted by the IR LEDs
And I have found the motion detection worse than useless. 3 hours of emails showing a spider spinning her web caused me to turn that off right quick.
 


Right. This DVR runs on its own Linux install, so BI is a no go.
It has sensitivity and area adjustment, but ignoring a human size (to the camera) spider and not ignoring a human size human is pretty much impossible.
 
I use Blue Iris and can say that you can certainly fine tune a lot of false detections out, but the only way you are going to prevent getting motion alerts from a spider 2inches from the camera is to turn the sensitivity down so low it would probably not catch a truck driving through the wall of your house.

Now with that said I still use motion triggering instead of constant recording because I would rather have bogus alerts than not know someone was on my property until I got home, and then have to look through 4 hours of footage.

For my next house I might setup PIR sensors to trigger BI instead of its own motion detection. That way only something with an IR heat signature will set off motion and not the 12 foot shadow of my neighbors tree an hour before sunset.
 
that i can connect to the camera that is coming. When i google or search on amazon, newegg, tigerdirect all i pull up are humongous speakers. It doesn't have to be in any sort of cabinet, but as the camera is 12V, i assume it's audio output is 12v

One thing the Nest does, it sounds a two note chime - it's only supposed to sound it when i push the microphone icon to speak to a visitor, but it also sounds, irregularly on motion detection - and the benefit is, inadvertently or instinctively the visitor looks up to find the source of the sound, giving the camera a clear straight on shot of the visitor's face. Had a magazine subscription salesman that the video caught the sound chiming, and when he looked up with a wtf look, it soon morphed into a worried look and the guy actually turned around and as he was walking away, looked back over his shoulder like he was worried a ghost was after him.

in case, here's a shot of the camera's audio out connector (the green connector body, two of the sockets are for alarm out)

NNN5BCM.jpg
 


don't know if this occurred to you re the spiders etc being drawn to the IR LEDs

as i stated earlier, the only insect i had that was giving me false alerts, was the giant moth

I tried turning the front stoop light on and leaving it on all night - it's a 60 watt equivalent 5000K LED - that light dis-abled the IR illumination but that 5000K did not attract any insects, moths or spiders (the 5000K is more "white" light than the 2700K lights. No false alerts whatsoever from the NEST software the entire night.

as i said earlier, i like the motion alerts if i can eliminate false ones entirely - doing the math, that 60 watt equivalent LED bulb is drawing 10 watts. My average cost of electricity per kwhr is 11 cents, assuming 10 hours per night (8;00PM to 6:00AM) is 3000 watt hours or 3 kwhr per month, which translates into 33 cents per 30 day month.

The camera i've ordered (Hikvision) is sensitive to .01 lux, so i should be able to go with a 40 watt LED bulb ( 6 watts draw) which would drop my monthly cost down to 20 cents / month. I've got a switch timer that will replace the front stoop light switch that i've been meaning to install elsewhere and never got around to it.

fwiw
 


Well..I have 4 cameras, 2 front and 2 rear.
I really don't want to have the place lit up like a UFO landing zone all night, even if it was free.
Light pollution and all that...
 


TheOriginalRalph,

Let us know what equipment you decided on and how the setup went. I would be curious to see how smooth or difficult it was for you.

Thanks for your help!

 
in looking back over this thread, i realize i managed to totally hijack it - sometimes my brain switch is stuck in the "off" position - my apologies

in answer to your question, i went totally with hikvision, now have five cameras and will be adding two more inside the house. THe interior cameras will remain disabled when we're in town, but if/when we leave town for a few days, they'll be enabled so i can view the interior of the house remotely.

Of the five cameras, two outside cameras have microphones, with audio out capability as well, and i was able to rig a speaker at each so they're now two way comm capable at both entrances. It sure makes it easier to chase away sales people without having to leave my desk. THe other two exterior cameras are have no audio capability, as the current single interior camera doesn't have audio. The two i plan to add to the interior will be two way audio capable.

My original thought was to wait to see how many cameras i ended up with before deciding on which NVR to go with, but to be frank, i don't think i will go with a NVR. The Trendnet 8 port PoE switch i've running has turned out to be pretty effective.

i installed a single 1TB SSD in the computer dedicated to the surveillance cameras, and currently am seeing 60-66GB daily video storage, so with the current 5 cameras i've got 14+ days storage - with the two i'm planning to add, it will probably drop to 12 days video storage but that's plenty for my needs. I did have to dial down the resolution on a couple of the cameras to help bring down storage consumption.

Total cost, including the $125 Trendnet switch is right now $1443 total, and will probably go to $1700 with the next two cameras.

In weighing whether to go with a NVR, i measured the current draw of my computer; when it's recording from all 5 cameras, with the display in "sleep", it's showing 20-21 watts (backing out 5W per camera. The trendnet is drawing 10W, so that meant my computer, when the display goes to sleep, is only drawing 10-11W. I backed the current the cameras are drawing as they'd be drawing that same current from the NVR (assuming PoE ports). The main point is that whether the trendnet switch is drawing 10 watts, or the NVR is, it's a wash or break even current wise, so i didn't see any reason to drop $300+ on a decent NVR (Hikvision). One thing i think i've learned in reading countless posts, is to try to keep the cameras and NVR from the same mfgr - there seem to be a lot of small issues that show up when you mix & match, and i'm not literate enough to resolve them - at least from the same mfgr, i can lean on their tech support.

The video is recording to the SSD on the computer i use to browse the web, watch movies etc - and occasionally render a video on. But if i'm going to render a video on this computer, which is rare, it's not much effort to turn Blue Iris software off, so no video recording is comsuming cpu resources.

And btw, Blue Iris is the video management software to go with - much much more sensitive motion sensitivity adjustment and much better zone control - one of my cameras can see the street, and i drew the outer most zone border about 3 feet in from the street - have not had one false motion detection notification in 2-3 weeks.

Hikvision's software is decent but the BI software is better, but you do need the hikvision software to adjust the cameras, ie resolution settings, wdr, backlighting, AGC etc. The Hikvision took some head scratching and playing with it to figure it out, but if i can do it at 69 yrs old, and basically a fred flintstone of computer literacy, anyone can. The few times i needed to call Hikvision tech support (4X), time to get thru to them was almost instant, one time had to wait 5 minutes, and 3 of the techs were real helpful, with the 4th being a complete idiot. If you ever call them and get "Patrick", just hang up.

A lot of posts online indicate the Hikvision (and the Dahua) cameras are set to a strange "default" IP address - but i'm not sure they bothered using the SADP tool software that Hikvision supplies - the first thing it does is lets you assign whatever IP address you want.

There is a security concern re Hikvision cameras, see http://www.ibtimes.com/us-police-military-bases-using-hackable-chinese-government-owned-surveillance-cameras-2614055 they're 42% owned by the chinese gov't. Dahua is even worse. Before buying either i downloaded both Hikvision's and Dahua's configuration software - when i downloaded Dahua's, my emsisoft malware/virus protection went off alarming like there was an invading army coming thru the door. No alarms when i installed the Hikvision software.
,
All in all, i'm real happy with the cameras - while i was typing this, amazon delivery dropped a package at the front door - BI software lets me set an alarm to sound thru the computer's speakers so i knew it before the dlvry guy had dropped the package on the stoop - but the point is, they never ring the bell, so you don't know the pkg is here, and we never use the front door. So the cameras were helpful in that regard.

But to state the obvious, most of the reason for the cameras was not to help catch any burglars, etc, but hopefully prevent them from breaking in, in the first place. We had a pretty gruesome home invasion up the street, they broke in in the middle of the night, the homeowner is a batchlor, fairly well off, and they beat the crap out of him to get him to open the safe in his house. He did, then they tied him up, and they were leaving thru the garage when they saw another safe - they untied him and beat the crap out of him again for not telling them about that one. The cops eventually caught the burglars, and it turned out 2 of them had been on the roofing crew replacing his roof.

I've got a slight background in this stuff - most break-ins, 80% of the time, the victim knows or has met the burglars, usually something like a plumber is working on your house, his helper hears your wife on the phone talking about the vacation you're going on or the dinner you're going to, so he knows when you're not going to be home. And that helper's buddy is a druggie, who pays that helper $20 for the info or "tip". You get the idea

This way, with the cameras, visitors have knowledge of the cameras (they're kind of hard to miss) and hopefully will find another target.

And in case, max resolution on all 5 cameras is 2688 x 1520, i've got three of them turned down to 1920x1080, and the microphones on the ones with mikes, are so good, i can hear the mail truck pull up to my mailbox, hear his engine idling and hear the mail man open and then shut the mailbox door like i was standing right there - it's eery, the mailbox is 100-110 feet distance from the camera.
 


Wow, thank you so much for your post and all the good information. At 69 years old your knowledge of networking and setting this up is miles beyond mine, I'll have to do more research before I attempt what you did. Great job!
 
actually there's no "networking" involved - the trendnet switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG6W1T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is basically plug and play. With 8 ports, one is lost to the cable that connects to my verizon "gateway" (what we used to call a modem), and as you plug a camera into one of the other ports, the SADP tool (software), identifies the new camera and helps you activate it and set it's IP address - setting an ip address is no different than picking a phone number for a new phone

from there it's basically just learning the configuration settings in the Hikvision iVMS-4200 configuration software
 


Oh lol, you made it sound more scary the first time.

How do the Hikvision cameras get their power? Are the camera's hard wired to the trendnet switch or do they get discovered through the WIFI? It would be really not fun to try and get a cable from the trendnet switch to each camera.

Thanks!