[SOLVED] BIOS issue...MSI B450 Gaming Carbon Pro...

[TimH77]

With the breadboard setup, my first attempt booted into BIOS and sl components were working. I looked around, RAM was at 2133 so I changed it to 3200 matched with the timings of the RAM I have, plus I turned on Game Boost. I clicked Save and Exit, then chose to reboot but it wouldn't reboot (I just read of others having the same issue.. clicking Save and Exit with reboot and nothing happened).

So I flipped the PSU switch, restarted and it wouldn't boot... it powered on for about ten seconds then powered off and kept repeating. I turned it off figuring the memory speed was an issue and reset CMOS by removing the battery (I don't have a jumper pin) for 5 minutes. I powered it on and it booted into BIOS, which from the initial boot the BIOS is just plain black/grey and white, nothing like the screenshots of MSI Click Bios 5 I see.

I changed the RAM to 2400 and tried Save and Exit with reboot and nothing again, so I had to turn off... but before restarting I figured I'd work on the RAM speed later and get Windows installed, so I installed the M.2 drive.

Now when I turn it on, which I'm not sure if it was a key on the keyboard I hit or if it's because the SSD is installed, but it boots to a DOS screen saying something like 'Select boot drive, or insert media to boot drive device.' I tried inserting the Windows USB then hit Enter but nothing happened except the same message repeated.

1) Did I hit a key?
Due to SSD install?
How do I exit or move forward?

*I figured I'd reset CMOS (thinking it will boot to BIOS) and update BIOS...

I have been reading up on things and found like mentioned above there is a glitch with BIOS, so I downloaded the new BIOS (which supports higher memory speeds) and want to install it using M-Flash in BIOS, directly from a USB. I figure updating the BIOS first will save some headaches, especially reading what others have gone through before the update was available.

2) I don't recall seeing the M-Flash option in the BIOS currently installed and the download is a.zip file... does it need to be extracted? I saw one comment say Yes and I saw another that said extracting it messed up BIOS and made the board unusable.

3) If M-Flash isn't available, I guess I have to update BIOS using Flash BIOS button- which it says 'connect CPU_PWR1 and ATX_PWR1 and no other components are necessary,' but does it hurt if breadboard is setup?

Any other thoughts or suggestions?

 

[TimH77]

That build date lines up with v18 released 7/30/19.

It's newer than the one you mentioned. Still feel v14 (released 1-31-19) is best?

 

[DMAN999]

Ok, gonna work on it. Dumb question, do I repeatedly press Delete to enter BIOS while Windows is booting? I saw that on a build video but it was a different brand motherboard and I had no luck searching for the answer.

Yes for your MB, you need to repeatedly tap the DEL key after you reboot the PC to get into the BIOS.

I'm in BIOS, here's what I see.

BIOS Version E7B85AMS.180
Build Date 7/22/19

I'll have to look it up. Both are E7B85 but yours ends in v14. I'd at least thought mine would be similar but a lower version like v12, etc.

You have:
Version 7B85v18
Release Date 2019-07-30

Which is newer and works better for 3000 series CPUs But should still be fine.
I would leave it alone unless you have a problem that is specifically stated to be fixed by a newer version.

 

[TimH77]

Yes for your MB, you need to repeatedly tap the DEL key after you reboot the PC to get into the BIOS.


You have:
Version 7B85v18
Release Date 2019-07-30

Which is newer and works better for 3000 series CPUs But should still be fine.
I would leave it alone unless you have a problem that is specifically stated to be fixed by a newer version.

Ok, I have it booting at 2933mhz, haven't tried higher yet (thanks a bunch for your help)!

It mentions in the manual about enabling Game Boost if not manually overclocking. Should I or can I enable Game Boost after changing RAM manually?

Any other tweaks you would recommend in BIOS? CPU? Just to note, I am using the Wraith Prism cooler... figured it'd see how it performs.

 

[TimH77]

Ok, booted at 3066mhz so I tried 3200mhz and it's not booting and won't go into bios. I'm assuming I need to reset CMOS and use a lower frequency?

 

[TimH77]

It wouldn't boot at 3200 so I turned off the power and then I unplugged the PSU. I thought I reset CMOS but when I plugged it back in and entered BIOS the A-XMP was still enabled and 3200mhz was still set, which is weird because it wouldn't go into BIOS the previous two times I restarted before unplugging thre PSU.

So I tried 3133mhz and it wouldn't boot, so I powered off and unplugged the PSU and this time succeeded in resetting CMOS. I enabled A-XMP and set the frequency at 3066mhz (which booted fine earlier) and changed the boot drive (M.2 SSD) from where it was at #10 to #1.

I restarted and it boots but gets stuck at the MSI logo screen (enabled in BIOS). I'm not sure why. I didn't have to set the boot disk previously because when I installed Windows it automatically set it, but I'm not sure what was changed.

 

[DMAN999]

Clear CMOS using these steps:

• Unplug the PC (PSU).
• Then press the Power Button for at least 30 seconds.
• Use a flat headed screwdriver to short the CLR CMOS (CLRTC) Jumper (Touch both jumper pins with the screwdriver) for at least 15 seconds.
• Plug the PC back in.
• Press the Power Button to turn the PC on.
• Repeatedly tap the DEL key
• A screen should come up telling you to press the F1 key, do that.
• Set the Optimized Default settings and Press OK (this is on the EXIT tab)
• Save and exit the BIOS.
• Tap the DEL key again to enter the BIOS and change any settings you want changed then save and exit again.

Then set the RAM to 3066 and save and exit and see if that works.

 

[TimH77]

Clear CMOS using these steps:

• Unplug the PC (PSU).
• Then press the Power Button for at least 30 seconds.
• Use a flat headed screwdriver to short the CLR CMOS (CLRTC) Jumper (Touch both jumper pins with the screwdriver) for at least 15 seconds.
• Plug the PC back in.
• Press the Power Button to turn the PC on.
• Repeatedly tap the DEL key
• A screen should come up telling you to press the F1 key, do that.
• Set the Optimized Default settings and Press OK (this is on the EXIT tab)
• Save and exit the BIOS.
• Tap the DEL key again to enter the BIOS and change any settings you want changed then save and exit again.

Then set the RAM to 3066 and save and exit and see if that works.

Ok, going to do it now. Just to clarify, with the BIOS reset I previously changed the boot drive from #10 (where it shows after clearing CMOS) to #1 (which I went to the #1 item but I don't remember what it was...Optical Drive was #2 just below it...I clicked on it and a list of options popped up and I selected 'Samsung EVO SSD'). Is this correct, should I do something different or leave it the way it is?

 

[TimH77]

Clear CMOS using these steps:

• Unplug the PC (PSU).
• Then press the Power Button for at least 30 seconds.
• Use a flat headed screwdriver to short the CLR CMOS (CLRTC) Jumper (Touch both jumper pins with the screwdriver) for at least 15 seconds.
• Plug the PC back in.
• Press the Power Button to turn the PC on.
• Repeatedly tap the DEL key
• A screen should come up telling you to press the F1 key, do that.
• Set the Optimized Default settings and Press OK (this is on the EXIT tab)
• Save and exit the BIOS.
• Tap the DEL key again to enter the BIOS and change any settings you want changed then save and exit again.

Then set the RAM to 3066 and save and exit and see if that works.

Awesome- ignore that last question. I saw when I Optimized Defaults it had the SSD listed and it's booting fine now.

Is Game Boost Ok to turn on? I wasn't sure if that just affects the CPU or if it included the RAM, and being I set it as high as I could before not booting I didn't want Game Boost to cause any issues.

 

[DMAN999]

I personally wouldn't use Game Boost.

 

[TimH77]

Ok. I thought this might need a new topic/thread but while writing this I was able to resolve (or let me know if I should create a new thread for ideas on cause).

After the breadboard I installed everything, plugged in optical drive, HDD as well as RGB fans and strips.

Before installing any software, even the included MSI disc with drivers and utilities, it crashed. I didn't see the Stop Code because the BSoD went by very fast. It rebooted and worked fine, for a bit.

While trying to install programs it created numerous times. The Stop Codes were-

• KERNEL SECURITY CHECK FAILURE
• PAGE LOAD...
• KERNEL AUTO BOOST INVALID LOCK RELEASE
• DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION (not using, on logon screen)
• IRQL... (installing Gaming App)
• KMODE EXCEPTION NOT HANDLED (idle) no reboot
• Rebooted, same Stop Code
• KMODE... stuck at 0% for a while
• IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL
• DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION (in the middle of trying to reset PC, reboot)

In the middle of all that I was using it and screens went blank, like I put it to sleep.

Seems like every other time or two I try to reboot the monitors just stay asleep. I noticed when I have a successful boot where the monitors wake up the red lights on the mobo (just above 24 pin) light up 1 (top), then 3, then 4 (bottom). When the monitors don't wake up I see no red lights.

I opened the case and unplugged everything but the essentials- fans, RAM and GPU. I took out 1 stick of RAM (Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB PC3200) just to minimize everything. After removing the stick if RAM CMOS was reset, so I went with defaults and was thing I'd keep the RAM mhz add they are until I have it up running and stable with programs installed.

I kept trying to reset or get it in safe mode but each time it either crashed or after the reset process ir wouldn't reboot, the monitors would stay asleep.

I finally got it in Safe Mode and uninstalled the last Windows Security Update, and just now was able to do a full reset. Windows is now setup and I'm logged in.

I figured I'd use it and slowly add/connect one item at a time, which is probably what I should have done the first time.