Question Blue Screens "Memory_Management" and "PFN_List Corrupt" Windows 7

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soloalpinist

soloalpinist

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Nov 21, 2012
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Hello Friends

My original system was Windows 7 Pro 64-bit since 2013 and very stable. I recently added a 1TB SSD and Windows 10 Pro to create a Dual Boot System. (I need some of the old Windows 7 programs but wanted to upgrade to Windows 10 Pro to get more up to date) My PC won't run Windows 11...so please don't criticize me for not using Windows 11.

I've been getting regular blue screens with the error messages about "Memory_Management" and also about "PFN_List Corrupt".

In addition My Firefox and Chrome windows are constantly crashing. Most of these problems seem to happen after first starting up the machine... but after its up and running for awhile it seems more stable.

I'm not tech savvy and have no idea where to start to figure this out. Any help is appreciated.

Cheers!
 
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Operating System
OS Name Microsoft Windows 7 Professional
OS Version 6.1.7601
Service Pack 1.0
Product ID 00371-178-6688806-85799
System Up Time 7/25/2023 3:43:39 PM
Internet Explorer Version 11.0.9600.19596
Microsoft DirectX Version DirectX 11
OpenGL Version 6.1.7600.16385 (win7_rtm.090713-1255)

Central Processor
CPU Name Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3930K CPU @ 3.20GHz
Number of logical processors 12
Code Name N/A
Manufacturer GenuineIntel
Current Clock Speed 3201 Mhz
Max Clock Speed 3201 Mhz
Voltage 1V
External Clock 100 Mhz
Serial Number BFEBFBFF000206D7
CPU ID Intel64 Family 6 Model 45 Stepping 7
Socket Designation LGA2011
L1-Cache 32 KB
L2-Cache 256 KB
L3-Cache 12288 KB

Motherboard
Model P9X79 PRO
Manufacturer ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC.
Serial Number 130410054200107
BIOS Name BIOS Date: 07/25/14 09:03:52 Ver: 48.01
BIOS Vendor American Megatrends Inc.
SMBIOS Version 4801
BIOS Date 7/25/2014

Memory Resource
Total Memory 63.9 GB
Used Memory 6.4 GB
Free Memory 57.6 GB
Memory Usage 9%

Video Adapter
Name NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760
Video Processor NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760
Manufacturer NVIDIA
Video Architecture VGA
DAC Type Integrated RAMDAC
Memory Size 2.0 GB
Memory Type Unknown
Video Mode 1920 x 1200 x 4294967296 colors
Current Refresh Rate 59 Hz
Driver Version 30.0.14.7212
Driver Date 9/13/2021

My Power Supply is:
Seasonic SS 760XP2ATX 12V/EPS 12V 760W 80 Plus Platinum Full Modular Certified Active PFC Power Supply

This PC was built in late 2013

I created the Dual Boot System by installing an additional 1TB SSD and put Windows 10 64-bit on it.

Let me know if you need any additional info Thanks!
 
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So you have one drive with Windows 7 and one drive with Windows 10, aaaaaaand, you what? Connect them individually and independently when you want to run one OS or the other, or did you use some sort of boot loader software to determine which OS to load during each boot, or, what?
 
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Darkbreeze said:
So you have one drive with Windows 7 and one drive with Windows 10, aaaaaaand, you what? Connect them individually and independently when you want to run one OS or the other, or did you use some sort of boot loader software to determine which OS to load during each boot, or, what?
Click to expand...
I used EasyBCD software setting it up. When I fire up the PC I have the choice of which OS to start ...Windows 7 or Windows 10
 
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Darkbreeze said:
And are you having these errors/problems in BOTH operating systems, or only in one of them?
Click to expand...
Well... I thought it was just Windows 7 but now I'm having trouble even booting to windows 10. Just get a spinning wheel.
The machine keeps running ckdsk on the windows 7 drive after trying to boot into Windows 10. It checks both the 7 drive then moves onto the 10 drive.
My system is from 2013 and maybe its failing? The main use is for photography and video editing and maybe it's time to look into upgrades.
Along that line I'd like to get someone familair with up-to-date Video editing PC builds who could possibly look at my components and see what is salvageable and what would be my best upgrade options. If you know of hoe I might request that in the forums let me know. Thanks for any suggestions.
 
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Ok, I can do that. So, for the sake of simplicity, although I know you posted that long text of system hardware above, can you please list as follows to make it a bit easier to see what we have to work with.

CPU
Motherboard
Memory kit including model if possible, but at least the speed and brand or series
Graphics card
Storage devices
Case
CPU cooler
Power supply (Exact model and how long it has been in use/service)

Also, you REALLY need to figure out a way to move on from needing to use any applications that you have determined only want to work in Windows 7 but newer versions OR have two systems, one of which that has Win 7 on it won't be connected to the internet. Because, Windows 7 is so far out of date when it comes to security issues that you might as well just upload a virtual inflatable Tall Boy/Skydancer to announce "please compromise my system", plus, and maybe more important, almost all applications that will only run on Windows 7 or older versions of Windows are definitely even MORE of a risk than Windows itself. And, the majority of applications out there are announcing they are completely ending support for Windows 7, including major platforms like Steam, so there is no future in continuing to run that OS and there are almost universally options for other applications that will run on newer OS versions which can be used as replacements for many of the older programs although admittedly the ability to continue using any files created on very old applications with newer replacements is sort of hit or miss.

Having an older secondary system for those needed programs, but not having it connect to the internet, might satisfy being both secure and able to still run those old applications. It is worth considering anyhow.
 
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Darkbreeze said:
Ok, I can do that. So, for the sake of simplicity, although I know you posted that long text of system hardware above, can you please list as follows to make it a bit easier to see what we have to work with.

CPU
Motherboard
Memory kit including model if possible, but at least the speed and brand or series
Graphics card
Storage devices
Case
CPU cooler
Power supply (Exact model and how long it has been in use/service)

Also, you REALLY need to figure out a way to move on from needing to use any applications that you have determined only want to work in Windows 7 but newer versions OR have two systems, one of which that has Win 7 on it won't be connected to the internet. Because, Windows 7 is so far out of date when it comes to security issues that you might as well just upload a virtual inflatable Tall Boy/Skydancer to announce "please compromise my system", plus, and maybe more important, almost all applications that will only run on Windows 7 or older versions of Windows are definitely even MORE of a risk than Windows itself. And, the majority of applications out there are announcing they are completely ending support for Windows 7, including major platforms like Steam, so there is no future in continuing to run that OS and there are almost universally options for other applications that will run on newer OS versions which can be used as replacements for many of the older programs although admittedly the ability to continue using any files created on very old applications with newer replacements is sort of hit or miss.

Having an older secondary system for those needed programs, but not having it connect to the internet, might satisfy being both secure and able to still run those old applications. It is worth considering anyhow.
Click to expand...
Here is my System Info:
CPU - Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3930K CPU @ 3.20GHz
Motherboard - ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. (P9X79 PRO)
Memory - G.Skill Ripjaw Z - F3-12800CL10 - 8GBZL (64GB RAM total)
Graphics Card - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 (with 2GB Memory)
Storage Devices :
- ATA Samsung SSD 840 SCSI Disk Device 240GB (Scratch Disk for Windows 7 Adobe Suite)
- ATA Samsung SSD 850 SCSI Disk Device - 500GB (C; Drive with Windows 7)
- ATA Samsung SSD 860 SCSI Disk Device 1TB (secondary "C Drive" with Windows 10)
- ATA WDC WD1002FAEX-0 SCSI Disk Device 1TB (Raid0)
- ATA WDC WD1002FAEX-0 SCSI Disk Device 1TB (Raid0)
ATA WDC WDBNCE5000P SCSI Disk Device - 500GB (Scratch Disk for Windows 10 Adobe Cloud Suite)
Case - Fractal Design XL R2
CPU Cooler - Corsair H100i (Liquid Cooler)
Power Supply - Seasonic SS 760XP2ATX 12V/EPS 12V 760W 80 Plus Platinum Full Modular Certified Active PFC Power Supply (in use since 2013)

Additional info:
- the PC has not been in constant daily use over the last 10 years.
- My Fractal Case has a non-functioning USB plug in the front and the front headphone jack is faulty. So I'd imagine a new case would be a good idea.
- I was planning to upgrade the GPU and recently purchased a Zotac Nvidia RTX 3060 with 12GB of memory... but have not installed it.
I agree that a new system should have Windows 10 (upgradable to 11) and I should forget about Windows 7.
As I said my primary use of the PC is Photo, Video Editing and typical uses like email, internet, Word Documents etc.
I don't do any Gaming.

I appreciate you looking this over and any feedback you can give.
 
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So, I see that you have an XL case. Are you wanting to stick with a full tower model or is a standard mid tower ok?

Also, do you have a preference when it comes to the platform, as in, Intel or AMD? Both are viable and practically anything from the last two generations will offer huge gains in performance from what you have now, even for models with the same number of cores although I'd definitely recommend something with no less than 6 cores with hyperthreading.

Based on your specs I'd say you need new CPU, motherboard, memory and power supply. Your PSU was a good model when it was new, but it's VERY old now. I would not risk your new graphics card by using it with any power supply that old regardless of how good it was when it was new.

Also, I'm tentatively going to assume you have some case fans with your current case so that whatever you decide to go with won't require the purchase of additional fans if you have some already plus whatever comes with the new case.

Also, how old is that H100i?
 
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Darkbreeze said:
So, I see that you have an XL case. Are you wanting to stick with a full tower model or is a standard mid tower ok?

Also, do you have a preference when it comes to the platform, as in, Intel or AMD? Both are viable and practically anything from the last two generations will offer huge gains in performance from what you have now, even for models with the same number of cores although I'd definitely recommend something with no less than 6 cores with hyperthreading.

Based on your specs I'd say you need new CPU, motherboard, memory and power supply. Your PSU was a good model when it was new, but it's VERY old now. I would not risk your new graphics card by using it with any power supply that old regardless of how good it was when it was new.

Also, I'm tentatively going to assume you have some case fans with your current case so that whatever you decide to go with won't require the purchase of additional fans if you have some already plus whatever comes with the new case.

Also, how old is that H100i?
Click to expand...
I’ve always had Intel but would be open to AMD if it’s signicantly less $. Does DaVinci Resolve and the Adobe Cloud Suite perform equally well on AMD?
The H100i was part of my build since the beginning… 2013. I have the Corsair software that monitors temps and it seems like it’s been solid all along.
I originally went with a XL case for plenty of room for hardrives and air circulation. But I’m not opposed to a smaller case.
Yes… I have a Noctua fans in the case.
 
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Well, I was hoping maybe you could avoid having to get a new case by simply replacing the front USB I/O panel board, but they don't seem to be available anymore. Fractal no longer has it's spare parts shop running, as it was with a 3rd party who is no longer doing it and I can't find one elsewhere either. So, perhaps not.

If your AIO is 10 years old, it's made it about five years longer than most of them do and I'd highly recommend replacing it. By now there is surely biological growth inside that has almost certainly diminished or restricted flow and reduced performance. If you have to take it all apart anyhow, that would be the best time to replace it as well. Besides which, with it being that old it just makes sense if you're going to upgrade the platform to start fresh with a new cooler as well.

Unfortunately Corsair no longer uses the same software that your cooler uses, so any change of model even to another Corsair model is going to require the use of their iCue software instead, but Arctic makes a very good AIO product with their Liquid freezer II models which are a bit less expensive as well. And that's assuming you WANT to stick with an AIO rather than an air cooler. You can get a very good air cooler that can easily handle the CPU below for significantly less than an AIO, but I'll leave that decision up to you.
 
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Darkbreeze said:
Well, I was hoping maybe you could avoid having to get a new case by simply replacing the front USB I/O panel board, but they don't seem to be available anymore. Fractal no longer has it's spare parts shop running, as it was with a 3rd party who is no longer doing it and I can't find one elsewhere either. So, perhaps not.

If your AIO is 10 years old, it's made it about five years longer than most of them do and I'd highly recommend replacing it. By now there is surely biological growth inside that has almost certainly diminished or restricted flow and reduced performance. If you have to take it all apart anyhow, that would be the best time to replace it as well. Besides which, with it being that old it just makes sense if you're going to upgrade the platform to start fresh with a new cooler as well.

Unfortunately Corsair no longer uses the same software that your cooler uses, so any change of model even to another Corsair model is going to require the use of their iCue software instead, but Arctic makes a very good AIO product with their Liquid freezer II models which are a bit less expensive as well. And that's assuming you WANT to stick with an AIO rather than an air cooler. You can get a very good air cooler that can easily handle the CPU below for significantly less than an AIO, but I'll leave that decision up to you.
Click to expand...
I don't have to have a AIO if it's significantly cheaper. Yes... I tried to find that Fractal part but haven't been able to.
 
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So, the 5600G, of which I've been about six systems with including one for my garage system, offers you roughly an 81% increase in single core performance and a 143% increase in multithreaded performance over your current 3930k, which is substantial. It's also rather inexpensive which is what makes it very attractive. Also, unlike most of the other budget options with at least 6 cores, this one has integrated graphics which is always a plus in case you should ever have graphics card issues the iGPU can be used for troubleshooting or as a stop gap while waiting for a replacement card if that should ever be necessary.

It's not the latest or the greatest, but it's inexpensive and offers you a very good jump in performance over what you have now.



Have to ask as well, what do you actually DO with this system that you need 64GB of RAM? Do you actually NEED that much memory, because there aren't all that many use cases where 64GB would even remotely be utilized. Even 32GB is probably overkill for the majority of systems, even for pretty high end applications. There are certainly some use cases where 64GB is needed, especially if you run VMs and such, but not many.
 
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Darkbreeze said:
So, the 5600G, of which I've been about six systems with including one for my garage system, offers you roughly an 81% increase in single core performance and a 143% increase in multithreaded performance over your current 3930k, which is substantial. It's also rather inexpensive which is what makes it very attractive. Also, unlike most of the other budget options with at least 6 cores, this one has integrated graphics which is always a plus in case you should ever have graphics card issues the iGPU can be used for troubleshooting or as a stop gap while waiting for a replacement card if that should ever be necessary.

It's not the latest or the greatest, but it's inexpensive and offers you a very good jump in performance over what you have now.



Have to ask as well, what do you actually DO with this system that you need 64GB of RAM? Do you actually NEED that much memory, because there aren't all that many use cases where 64GB would even remotely be utilized. Even 32GB is probably overkill for the majority of systems, even for pretty high end applications. There are certainly some use cases where 64GB is needed, especially if you run VMs and such, but not many.
Click to expand...
I primarily edit photos and video. I use Lightroom and Photoshop extensively for photo work. I edit video utilizing Adobe Premiere Pro, After Effects, Audition etc and also use Davinci Resolve. It was my understanding that with resource intensive programs such as those used in filmmaking that the more RAM the better... hence 64GB.
 
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Fair enough. If you use high end graphics and video editing software in a semi or professional capacity, then you very well MIGHT see some benefit from that. I do quite a bit of Photoshop, Lightroom and Illustrator, and a much less amount of Resolve and other video editors, and never come anywhere close to using even 3/4ths of that 32GB, but you might be working with much larger files on a whole other level so it's definitely possible.

One last question regarding the case. Do you have a need for USB C on the front panel or is having USB C on the rear I/O sufficient? It actually makes a pretty big difference in case options because a lot of really good cases that would otherwise work well will not be options if front panel USB C is a requirement.
 
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Darkbreeze said:
Fair enough. If you use high end graphics and video editing software in a semi or professional capacity, then you very well MIGHT see some benefit from that. I do quite a bit of Photoshop, Lightroom and Illustrator, and a much less amount of Resolve and other video editors, and never come anywhere close to using even 3/4ths of that 32GB, but you might be working with much larger files on a whole other level so it's definitely possible.

One last question regarding the case. Do you have a need for USB C on the front panel or is having USB C on the rear I/O sufficient? It actually makes a pretty big difference in case options because a lot of really good cases that would otherwise work well will not be options if front panel USB C is a requirement.
Click to expand...
I only have USB-A ports (2.0 and 3.0) No USB C (because it's from 2013?) If I'm going to do without USB on the front I can also do without the malfunctioning front headphone jack ... in which case I can use this Fractal case and just utilize the front USB ports that are working and use just the rear headphone jack... Yes?
 
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I think I wasn't clear though. I wasn't suggesting that you do without ANY USB ports in front, obviously with a new case you'd have working USB 3.0 Type A ports up there on basically any case these days. I was just wanting to know IF you have USB C devices that you wish to be able to plug into the front of the case since you'd have that option with a new case, but not for every model because there are still a lot of very good cases that have not incorporated USB Type C into their front panel designs yet.

But if you want to simply continue using the case you have now, that's certainly an option too. To be honest, it's probably a lot cheap to simply by a three or four foot cable and a USB hub than it is to replace the case, but I'll leave that choice up to you.

This is the case I was thinking might be a good choice for you if you wanted to replace the case and you wanted to stick with a full tower design, however it does not have front panel USB C. Case itself is about 100 bucks, so I think we can still get everything and remain within your budget allowance BUT if you just want to forego replacing the case and stick with what you have it will certainly allow you to save some money.

basic-tutorials.com

Fractal Design Pop XL Air review: Modern case with classic features

The Swedish brand Fractal Design has been known for high-quality computer components for quite some time and especially the cases enjoy great popularity. The Define series, the Meshify models, the Focus-G as a very good model in the entry-level range and most recently the Torrent models have...
basic-tutorials.com basic-tutorials.com
 
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Darkbreeze said:
I think I wasn't clear though. I wasn't suggesting that you do without ANY USB ports in front, obviously with a new case you'd have working USB 3.0 Type A ports up there on basically any case these days. I was just wanting to know IF you have USB C devices that you wish to be able to plug into the front of the case since you'd have that option with a new case, but not for every model because there are still a lot of very good cases that have not incorporated USB Type C into their front panel designs yet.

But if you want to simply continue using the case you have now, that's certainly an option too. To be honest, it's probably a lot cheap to simply by a three or four foot cable and a USB hub than it is to replace the case, but I'll leave that choice up to you.

This is the case I was thinking might be a good choice for you if you wanted to replace the case and you wanted to stick with a full tower design, however it does not have front panel USB C. Case itself is about 100 bucks, so I think we can still get everything and remain within your budget allowance BUT if you just want to forego replacing the case and stick with what you have it will certainly allow you to save some money.

basic-tutorials.com

Fractal Design Pop XL Air review: Modern case with classic features

The Swedish brand Fractal Design has been known for high-quality computer components for quite some time and especially the cases enjoy great popularity. The Define series, the Meshify models, the Focus-G as a very good model in the entry-level range and most recently the Torrent models have...
basic-tutorials.com basic-tutorials.com
Click to expand...
I don't have any USB-C devices to plug in the front so I think I can make my old case work ... as you said I can get a USB hub if needed.
 
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I think this will get you where you want to be, for even less than you were willing to pay. Now, this is obviously not a top of the line motherboard, but I've used the ASROCK Pro4 boards a lot over the years, and specifically I've used the B550 Pro 4 for about four builds and have not had any issues with them at all. Every one has been working trouble free for at least six to eight months with the first of them having been built about 1.5 years ago. It's just a good, solid, budget motherboard. If you want I can definitely recommend a higher end board, perhaps with onboard WiFi and BIOS flashback, as well as better VRM configuration and more than two M.2 drive slots, because there are definitely some features worth paying more for, but in truth this will serve you quite nicely if those are things you are not particularly interested in.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($127.56 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($18.89 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B550 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($107.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM650x (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $459.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-10 22:05 EDT-0400


And as I said earlier, we can also look at changing to an even newer platform, perhaps an Intel i5 with 10 cores but of course it's going to cost a little more than what this will run you but it's definitely something we can certainly do.
 
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Darkbreeze said:
I think this will get you where you want to be, for even less than you were willing to pay. Now, this is obviously not a top of the line motherboard, but I've used the ASROCK Pro4 boards a lot over the years, and specifically I've used the B550 Pro 4 for about four builds and have not had any issues with them at all. Every one has been working trouble free for at least six to eight months with the first of them having been built about 1.5 years ago. It's just a good, solid, budget motherboard. If you want I can definitely recommend a higher end board, perhaps with onboard WiFi and BIOS flashback, as well as better VRM configuration and more than two M.2 drive slots, because there are definitely some features worth paying more for, but in truth this will serve you quite nicely if those are things you are not particularly interested in.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($127.56 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($18.89 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B550 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($107.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM650x (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $459.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-10 22:05 EDT-0400


And as I said earlier, we can also look at changing to an even newer platform, perhaps an Intel i5 with 10 cores but of course it's going to cost a little more than what this will run you but it's definitely something we can certainly do.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the effort you've put into this...I really appreciate it. If it's not to much trouble perhaps you could suggest the "next tier up" and it's benefits as well.... in case I can swing abit more?
Good news from Fractal... they have that panel they will send me for free if I simply pay the shipping (Europe).
 
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That is outstanding, and is EXACTLY why I buy all my personal cases from them now and try to swing user recommendations towards them as well. They have, by far, the best customer service of any case manufacturer that I've dealt with in the last 25 years and their customer service is generally on par with places like EVGA and Corsair who have pretty outstanding reputations when it comes to supporting their products and warranties.

They literally send me new feet for my Define S case when it came from Amazon with no feet in the box, for free, no shipping, no questions asked.

Then, when I ordered, three times, from three different online retailers, a tempered glass side panel upgrade for the same case, and all three arrived shattered in the box, they sent me a TG side panel in heavily reinforced/padded box, no shipping and no charge for the panel. I couldn't believe it honestly. That sold me permanently. Your experience further reinforces that conviction. I had thought to contact them for you as well, but then I figured if they had them available it would be somewhere on their website, but I guess not. Now I know better and will simply contact them directly for future situations. They used to have the spare parts store that listed all the replacement hardware that was available for their cases but as I said they don't have that anymore so that threw me off. LOL.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-12600KF 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($154.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($37.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z690 AORUS ELITE AX DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($107.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM650x (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $580.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-11 15:31 EDT-0400


Benefits include 23% faster single core performance than the 5600G and 37% faster multithreaded performance. This board also has four M.2 slots instead of 2 like the one in the first build has. It's also a much higher quality board than the Pro4 and has better connectivity options as well. It also includes onboard WiFi AX, in the event you prefer to use a wireless connection rather than an ethernet cable. And, a much more capable CPU cooler to accommodate the extra 4 cores and extra 4 hyperthreads it has above what the 5600G has.

Then if you want to step up even further, to the latest mature Intel platform, you could do something like this, which offers about a 6% increase in single core performance and about a 39% increase in multicore performance over what the 12600KF offers.



PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600KF 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($289.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($37.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($239.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6400 CL32 Memory ($204.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RM650x (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $862.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-11 15:46 EDT-0400
 
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