[SOLVED] Boot Loop

[Viorala]

Hi, my pc won't startup. I've read the sticky. Initially I was on the computer, all of a sudden it did a constant beep and froze. When I tried to startup again it gave a short beep (normal), the fans would start, then it would turn off, and just repeats doing that. After trying a bunch of things today, the fans still repeat the process but there is no beep, just silence.

Specs:

Gigabyte mobo GA-P55M-UD2
Intel Core i5 CPU 750 @ 2.67GHz 2.79 GHz
Windows 10 64 bit
EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 ti
Ballistix DDR3 ram, 24 gb (16+8)
PSU Corsair CX750M - 750 watt

The PSU is brand new, I figured that was the problem. It wasn't. I've switched in an EVGA 550w and Logisys 480w that I know work and that didn't solve the problem.

I switched in my old graphics card that still works, a GEforce 560ti, that didn't help.

I've detached all the peripherals. I've done the one ram at a time thing. No ram (which is when the beep went away.) I've quadruple-checked the power connections to the motherboard. I've tried to start up with no graphics card at all. I've reset the CMOS battery, I've replaced the CMOS battery. My CPU fan runs fine as do the others. I've checked the motherboard for little bulges, I can't see any. I've cleared everything away from the mobo. I have electronics air spray and used that to clean.

I suspect there is a short somewhere but I don't know how to find and fix that. I'm also nervous about anything with the CPU. So please let me know if I missed a diagnostic process somewhere, any help is welcome, even if you think the mobo is fried. (It still has its lights.)

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, you have to have RAM and a CPU installed or else nothing will ever happen except for fans coming on, sometimes. The CPU and case fans will generally always run so long as there is a power good signal.

I would be immensely surprised if this was anything other than a motherboard failure, especially given how very old this system is. I mean, we're talking about an 11 year old CPU and probably also a similarly aged motherboard. Being purely honest, and of course without any considerations for personal financial situation etc., I'd be very much inclined to say that the only thing really surprising about this is that it didn't happen sooner and that it's definitely time for an upgrade anyhow. That platform has to be a major bottleneck, even for a somewhat lowly 1050 ti.

I can't imagine there being any sort of spontaneous short that it has developed suddenly, in some way that would be correctable. Most likely it has simply expired a capacitor or two, or some mosfets or other components have finally succumbed to fatigue. Anything past 9 years is a very good run for a motherboard that's seen consistent use, and perhaps even for one that hasn't.

 

[Viorala]

Ok thanks. Makes sense, I guess I just needed someone else to tell me. Let me ask you what you think about this:

New Ryzen are coming out Nov 5, do you think prices on Intel or older Ryzen CPUs will go down at that time?

 

[Darkbreeze]

It's possible, but truthfully this never really seems to play out that way even though many of us think it will. On past generational updates it has actually gone the other way, with parts from the last or existing generation becoming MORE expensive because the new generation is more expensive so everybody makes a rush to buy up the last gen parts, which of course has the unwanted result of driving demand up, and prices up. This time however, it is landing squarely in the middle of the holiday sales, to whatever extend there actually are holiday sales this crazy year, so honestly I think all bets are off and we just really don't know what the heck is going to happen.

I personally believe, regardless of any other considerations, that waiting (Since we are this close, this or any other time, when there is a release likely to happen within the next 30-60 days, unless you absolutely MUST have the parts NOW) is a good idea so you are able to give yourself the opportunity to at least SEE what the new parts run and what the performance actually looks like, before you purchase anything. It would suck to buy X model hardware now just to find out that a month later you could get something newer that outperforms it for the same price, or the same hardware for a lower price, but didn't wait. Outside of the release being very close, I never recommend waiting, because there is ALWAYS something better coming down the pipe and if we always waited three or six months for it we'd always be waiting for something and we'd never pull the trigger on anything. When the launch of something new isn't very close, I always recommend simply getting what you NEED, now, if there is something available that will do what you need and that you can afford, rather than waiting.

Normally, as well, "Black Friday" and "Holiday" sales are on LAST YEAR'S or last Gen hardware. They are very rarely inclusive of whatever was just released or was very recently released, because demand for that hardware is usually high, and they don't NEED to discount it in order to move it.

 

[Viorala]

Thanks for your advice. I'm thinking of getting this: https://www.newegg.com/abs-computer...ali380/p/N82E16883102907?Item=N82E16883102907

Because of its cost, no need to buy more stuff, and futureproofing. I don't know when the sale ends though.

Anyway, what do you think? It's basically the same price as if I built one, although with a better cpu. I'm afraid of messing with that though, I read posts from people who bent pins and that is something I would easily do. But am I missing anything with this pc?

I forgot to mention, the games I play the most are ATLAS, ARK, and Overwatch.

 

[Darkbreeze]

You could do worse, but you could certainly do a lot better AND I would highly recommend you wait a bit longer because pretty soon there are going to be similar systems available, at about the same prices, but using RTX 3070's instead of 2070 Supers, or potentially even 3060/Super, that are way more capable than the 2070 Super, for about the same price most likely. But, you gotta do what you gotta do.

Personally, I'm not a fan of ABS or pretty much any of the other prebuilt aftermarket gaming system "manufacturers", because I've seen how badly they are put together, how terrible support usually is and how low quality the majority of parts used on them (Especially when it comes to power supply, motherboard and graphics card model selection. You're going to get the cheapest crap they can put in there that still meets the specs of the purchase) is. In my opinion, you are always better off paying 100-200 dollars more and specifically selecting the parts for quality, and assembling it yourself, because it's not hard, I've walked MANY first timers through their own builds.

What you end up with is miles better in terms of quality in most cases AND more importantly, when you're done, you've accomplished something you didn't think you could do and usually most people from that point on will never need somebody else to do things for them or have to take it and pay to have simple things done when upgrading or troubleshooting. But it's not for everybody either. There are definitely some folks with too many thumbs, and I understand that. If you know it's beyond your abilities, I won't be the one to argue with you.

 

[Viorala]

Thanks, you've been so helpful! I will wait until after Nov 5 Ryzen release to decide what to do.

 

[Darkbreeze]

👍

 

[Viorala]

Hey Darkbreeze, remember me? I decided to build a pc using what I already have since it's cheaper. I have questions though, like:

I think the mobo I picked might be the wrong one
RAM 2633 highest per mobo or should I get 3000
What is an NVME ssd? I have an ssd, pretty sure it's not NVME
Will my GeForce 1050ti be able to work in this build
Can I transfer my Windows 10 to another hard drive without having to buy software to do it

Here's my theoretical build at $644.96:

Intel Core i5-10600K 4.1 GHz 6-Core Processor

Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler

Gigabyte Z490 AORUS MASTER ATX LGA1200 Motherboard

G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 CL19 Memory

What I already have:

EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 ti
EVGA 550w
Windows 10 64 bit

Any input is welcome. Thanks!

 

[Darkbreeze]

That all looks 100% right. You can't use faster than 2666mhz memory with that CPU, so unless you PLAN to upgrade the CPU to a higher end i7 or i9 10th Gen CPU model later, there is no point in getting faster memory. If you DO plan to upgrade the CPU later, then it might make sense to just go ahead and get a 3200-3600mhz kit now. It will still work with what you have, but only at 2666mhz. If you're not sure if you will upgrade the CPU within the next year or two, then I'd just stick with whichever memory kit is compatible and is reasonably priced and is in the 2666-3200mhz range. If you can get a 3200mhz 2 x8GB CL14 kit, the CL14 is going to mean it's very high end memory and the low latency is going to result in very snappy memory performance and overall quicker feel from the tighter timings.

The cooler isn't my favorite though. If you're going to go with a cheap budget cooler, which I really don't recommend but sometimes something has to give in the budget, then I'd definitely look at the Deepcool Gammaxx 400 v2 rather than any of the 212 series coolers. It's a moderately better cooler for around the same price. Truthfully, you'd be a lot better off to spend an extra 20 bucks and get something like this, which itself is moderately superior to either of those coolers.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU Cooler: Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Direct 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler ($42.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $42.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-07 04:28 EST-0500

 

[Viorala]

I have two more builds to look at if you don't mind. One is more evenly matched and Two is heavily focused on the cpu with a slight downgrade on the mobo. (You can barely tell, imo.)

Keeping in mind that I already have:

EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 ti
EVGA 550w
Windows 10 64 bit

1)

Intel Core i7-10700K 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor

Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Direct 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler

Gigabyte Z490 AORUS MASTER ATX LGA1200 Motherboard

G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL14 Memory

and 2)

Intel Core i9-10850K 3.6 GHz 10-Core Processor

Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Direct 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler

Gigabyte Z490 AORUS PRO AX ATX LGA1200 Motherboard

G.Skill Flare X Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL14 Memory

What do you think? Budget is $800 and both of these are practically that.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, obviously (Or at least it SHOULD be obvious) the 10850k with 3200mhz CL14 memory is going to be a moderately more capable system since it has more cores and threads, a 100mhz higher peak boost, 100mhz higher all core boost and would be using faster memory with a lower true latency given it's same CL14 spec with 200mhz faster frequency.

They are all tremendously overkill for that 1050 ti however, so unless you plan on also upgrading to a MUCH more capable graphics card in the very near future, they may not be the best choice. Better by far, if budget dictates, would be to go with a somewhat lower cost CPU, motherboard and memory and put the savings towards a better graphics card. If gaming is the priority.

 

[Viorala]

Psh, I was just testing you.

Thanks again for your help!

 

[Darkbreeze]

👍