Brand new custom pc freezes randomly, doesn't cold boot and more!

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HuskyBuilder

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Dec 13, 2014
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A few weeks ago I built a pc (specs in sig) and from the start it had a ton of issues. At first I had placed the RAM sticks in the grey slots. It wouldn't boot. Then I got it to work by putting one stick in and after pulling out the CMOS and correctly inserting the RAM it would finally boot. I was still cursed though, first install of Windows 8.1 (USB) had some shortcuts (control panel, file explorer) as blank pages and they wouldn't work. Second install, freezes galore! Random freezes that happened randomly, first they might not appear for 5 hours straight next thing you know, it freezes 3 times in a row. Now I'm not talking about 5 second freezes (which would be a blessing in comparison), no these lockups would be permanent. No cursor moving, nothing.

I thought it was a driver issue because of the "The driver \Driver\WudfRd failed to load for the device SWD\SensorsAndLocationEnum\LPSensorSWDevice" event I would get in Event Viewer but even when I updated all my drivers the issue would persist. Fine, I said, let's try the hardware. I disconnected my SSD and the HDD also froze then it didn't for 6 hours and the day after, it wouldn't boot into W8.1. I disconnected the HDD and tried installing W7 on the SSD. The installation froze while doing the "Installing Updates" part, next 2 tries it froze on the "Expanding files" part. Every time I change RAM sticks positions the pc won't POST or give me any beeps. Then miraculously it boots after unplugging it for hours or whatever I did.

This is why I think it might be these factors:
RAM - the freezes occur randomly and memtest86 shut down the pc before it finished the first pass. (Little chance that the CPU overheats, I can't recall it going over 40C using Windows even while gaming)
M/B - because everytime I change the RAM positions it will act up. It would also only work with one slot when trying one stick.
HDD - the freezes happened many times when somethings happened in the GUI (eg. pressing install) and sometimes before the freeze the cursor would get the rotating blue circle before completely freezing. SMART also showed bad "Seek Error Rate".
SSD - Windows was installed here 'nuff said
PSU - not known to be a top notch premium quality PSU and pc sometimes doesn't cold boot and sometimes does.

Once I left the pc after a freeze and came back to SPECIAL_POOL_DETECTED_MEMORY_CORRUPTION BSoD and upon installing W8.1 to my SSD it would BSoD because of a bad USB3 driver.

Sorry for the essay but I'm reeeaaallly tired of freezings and errors and not booting computers. Can someone give me a list of things I need to do to rule out the bad component?
 
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Nope, I tried both using only one at a time and tried each module before posting. If I change any stick position out I'm screwed. This is the process that has happened in the previous few weeks:
1. Need to change RAM because it works with errors or need to try memtest or RAM doesn't work
2. Change RAM position
3. RAM doesn't work
4. Revert to original RAM position
5. RAM doesn't work
6. Whine for hours and leave it unplugged or something
7. RAM works?

I try draining the power for 15 minutes or holding down the power button, nothing. I try clearing the CMOS, nothing. Only after keeping it unplugged for 1-3 hours then it might work. This is why I think it's the board because suddenly one slot works and suddenly it doesn't. I feel like all motherboards work normally, as in: you can change RAM positions or add new RAM's and it will work. But mine is like: if RAM is working it will stop working if you change the position, try to boot and then try to put the sticks back in the original position. I think it really likes to just give me surprises. Btw, I've read that you're supposed to unplug the computer when changing RAM. I do that when I change my RAM but what happens if you keep it plugged in and power off (just to know why I have to be extra cautious and remember to unplug the pc)
 
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Alright, even though it's a pain in the arse. It's a socket LGA 1150 though, how do I check for bent pins? I also read that sometimes when installing a HS you can put more pressure in one side making more pin contact in one side and less in the other so I guess I will try (this sadly will include cleaning the CPU/HS and reapplying thermal paste🙁)
 
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Take care when removing the CPU cooler as it might be stuck on the CPU due to the thermal paste.
Check https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VSDkB-3st4 or similar for how to.
Then remove the CPU and inspect the CPU socket. see if there are pins that are out of the pattern
ex:http://s744.photobucket.com/user/jakemacgregor/media/DSC02165_zps5990a9d9.jpg.html

If socket is OK, try testing the board outside the case, for ruling out a short due to a misplaced standoff.
 
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Alright I'll get back to you in an hour or so. I will try to breadboard and see if it might be the standoff because there is one hole on the M/B that doesn't align with any standoffs in my case (Fractal R4) even though it supports mATX
 
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Are you using the stock Intel CPU cooler, or an aftermarket one?
You can try clearing the CMOS (unplug the power cord and remove the CMOS battery for a minute), installing the CPU, the Intel cooler (if available), single RAM module, the OS drive, keyboard, mouse and test, board outside the case.

What are the components?
 
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The components are in my signature

M/B: Gigabyte B85M-D3H CPU: Intel i5-4690k GPU: MSI GTX 970 GAMING 4G HDD (Secondary): Seagate Barracuda 1TB @ 7200rpm SSD (Primary): Samsung 840 Evo HS: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB PSU: Corsair CX600M

I'm using an aftermarket cooler, Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. What might cause a pc to not boot without the stock cooler? And keep in mind that the problem is not only not being able to boot or POST but the freezings I will get once I enter the OS.
 
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There are 2 pins. You can try straightening them using a magnifying glass and whatever tool you consider appropriate (mechanical pencil, tweezers...). If not working, some pins are redundant and simply removing them could solve the issue.
Or... RMA the board.
 
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Yeah, neh. Gonna just RMA the thing it's sucking the life out of me. Just a few things to know it's truly the mobo and that I'm not frying the new one or that it's another component issue like RAM etc..

If I change from 2 RAM sticks to only 1 or ANYTHING in the positioning of the sticks, it will not boot.
It will neither cold boot most of the times after being off for a long time.
When updating the BIOS the backup BIOS wouldn't kick in when the primary BIOS didn't POST (had to leave it unplugged for hours).
Two USB's that I haven't encountered any problems with didn't work with this computer (the motherboard is responsible for USB ports)

Is this enough to rule out that the mobo might be bad? RAM issues like freezing are probably caused by the DIMM buses because if it was a good board I could put a stick in any module and it should work. With a good board you can put two RAM's in any module pair and it should work! With this board, if you triumphed over these cursed DIMM buses you would encounter random freezes in W8.1, not being able to install W7, Memtest would shut down your pc and a flashing cursor in Ubuntu.

Again this build is only 2-3 weeks old. Can you please just tell me if it's safe to RMA the mobo and if I get a better quality one and it arrives should it work or can the bad component suddenly become the CPU/RAM/PSU? And also a very important question, what can happen to a RAM stick if I leave the pc plugged in (but powered off) and pull the stick out? I'm very cautious when I change my RAM but I wanna know if forgetting to plug it out is forgiving.
 
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Alright! But can you please tell me what might be the effects of pulling out a RAM with the power plugged in?
 
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Me? xD I'm extra cautious because RMA'ing is a pain where I live. I just wanted to know because if it happens I can know that my RAM is dead for sure. I read some reviews that the RAM I have is bad and is usually DOA.
 
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You have to analyze RAMs performance in conjunction with motherboard and CPU.
Since you already determined a possible cause of their malfunction (bent pins), it's hard to say anything about their performance. You haven't tested them in a functional setup.
 
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I see. I think that I bent them when taking out or putting the CPU back in though, not before I installed the CPU. The board had defective DIMM buses anyways though.
 
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