Broken Socket

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

Hey group,

I broke my CPU socket on my S370 TUSL2-C board tonight. Is there a way to
fix this, as far as resoldering a new socket or is that a bit much? It
broke right where the HS latch locks on, the little nub that comes out that
locks the HS on. There actually 2 lips on each side the HS latches too, and
one broke.

I've tried super glue, and model glue and neither seemed to work. I have
the HS barely holding on by the one little nub that's left, but I don't
think its tight enough cause the system keeps overheating if running at full
clock. It's a 1200 MHz 512 L2 @ 147 Degree's F, so I ran it down to 900
MHz @ 100 FSB and it seems to be holding @ around 110 Degree's F and running
okay.

I really hate to give this spectacular board up, so if there's a way to fix
it, I"m all ears.

Any and all comments welcomed!!

Doug

 

[Paul]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

In article <m_yWc.1171$HY.181@trnddc03>, "Doug" <DZappyNOSPAM@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Hey group,
>
> I broke my CPU socket on my S370 TUSL2-C board tonight. Is there a way to
> fix this, as far as resoldering a new socket or is that a bit much? It
> broke right where the HS latch locks on, the little nub that comes out that
> locks the HS on. There actually 2 lips on each side the HS latches too, and
> one broke.
>
> I've tried super glue, and model glue and neither seemed to work. I have
> the HS barely holding on by the one little nub that's left, but I don't
> think its tight enough cause the system keeps overheating if running at full
> clock. It's a 1200 MHz 512 L2 @ 147 Degree's F, so I ran it down to 900
> MHz @ 100 FSB and it seems to be holding @ around 110 Degree's F and running
> okay.
>
> I really hate to give this spectacular board up, so if there's a way to fix
> it, I"m all ears.
>
> Any and all comments welcomed!!
>
> Doug

Looking at a picture of the motherboard, I don't see a lot of
options. If the motherboard had holes around the processor
socket, then you could search for a bolt-on heatsink, but that
board has too much stuff around the socket to have room for
the needed holes.

On sockets that have three tabs on each side, the solution when
you bust off the middle tab, is to find a heatsink product with
a three tab clamp, where the two remaining tabs can take the load.
This page has a picture to illustrate the concept:

http://www.overclockers.com/articles451/

But, in your case, there are only two tabs, and if you bust of
the "centered" one, the remaining tab will only be able to give
an "asymmetric" down force. This means, if you can find a three
tab style heatsink (a light one, not one of those blocks of copper),
the clamp is going to be twisted, and that isn't likely to work
very well, and could bust off the remaining tab.

Here is one I found through Pricewatch. You might take the fan
off this and replace it with a fan that doesn't draw
quite as much current. I don't know how long the other tab
will last with a thing like this.

http://www.censuspc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TT-A1365&Category_Code=_CMCPUFAN
http://www.thermaltake.com/coolers/volcano/rs/a1365.htm

You could try looking through some of the reviews here for
ideas:

http://www.overclockers.com/topiclist/index15.asp#HEATSINK%20REVIEWS%20AND%20TIPS

HTH,
Paul

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

Arctic silver makes an epoxy (it's permamnent) to attach heatsinks. Worth
looking into.

"Doug" <DZappyNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:m_yWc.1171$HY.181@trnddc03...
> Hey group,
>
> I broke my CPU socket on my S370 TUSL2-C board tonight. Is there a way to
> fix this, as far as resoldering a new socket or is that a bit much? It
> broke right where the HS latch locks on, the little nub that comes out
> that
> locks the HS on. There actually 2 lips on each side the HS latches too,
> and
> one broke.
>
> I've tried super glue, and model glue and neither seemed to work. I have
> the HS barely holding on by the one little nub that's left, but I don't
> think its tight enough cause the system keeps overheating if running at
> full
> clock. It's a 1200 MHz 512 L2 @ 147 Degree's F, so I ran it down to 900
> MHz @ 100 FSB and it seems to be holding @ around 110 Degree's F and
> running
> okay.
>
> I really hate to give this spectacular board up, so if there's a way to
> fix
> it, I"m all ears.
>
> Any and all comments welcomed!!
>
> Doug
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

Forgot to add the link:

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm


"Doug" <DZappyNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:m_yWc.1171$HY.181@trnddc03...
> Hey group,
>
> I broke my CPU socket on my S370 TUSL2-C board tonight. Is there a way to
> fix this, as far as resoldering a new socket or is that a bit much? It
> broke right where the HS latch locks on, the little nub that comes out
> that
> locks the HS on. There actually 2 lips on each side the HS latches too,
> and
> one broke.
>
> I've tried super glue, and model glue and neither seemed to work. I have
> the HS barely holding on by the one little nub that's left, but I don't
> think its tight enough cause the system keeps overheating if running at
> full
> clock. It's a 1200 MHz 512 L2 @ 147 Degree's F, so I ran it down to 900
> MHz @ 100 FSB and it seems to be holding @ around 110 Degree's F and
> running
> okay.
>
> I really hate to give this spectacular board up, so if there's a way to
> fix
> it, I"m all ears.
>
> Any and all comments welcomed!!
>
> Doug
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

Hey, Thanx Paul, I do appreciate it. My suspicions are most likely
correct that there's not going to be much I can do about it. I do think the
task would be quite daunting to try and solder a new one on after
re-inspecting the situation. I have a couple smoked boards laying around
but that doesn't do me much good I'm afraid. I called around to some local
shops and no one is willing to take the task at hand on either, I was told
more then once to scrap it.
It was my own stupidity that broke the dang thing and now I'm paying the
price.

Thanx again for the time you took out to reply,

Doug


"Paul" <nospam@needed.com> wrote in message
news:nospam-2408040451290001@192.168.1.177...
> In article <m_yWc.1171$HY.181@trnddc03>, "Doug" <DZappyNOSPAM@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Looking at a picture of the motherboard, I don't see a lot of
> options. If the motherboard had holes around the processor
> socket, then you could search for a bolt-on heatsink, but that
> board has too much stuff around the socket to have room for
> the needed holes.
>
> On sockets that have three tabs on each side, the solution when
> you bust off the middle tab, is to find a heatsink product with
> a three tab clamp, where the two remaining tabs can take the load.
> This page has a picture to illustrate the concept:
>
> http://www.overclockers.com/articles451/
>
> But, in your case, there are only two tabs, and if you bust of
> the "centered" one, the remaining tab will only be able to give
> an "asymmetric" down force. This means, if you can find a three
> tab style heatsink (a light one, not one of those blocks of copper),
> the clamp is going to be twisted, and that isn't likely to work
> very well, and could bust off the remaining tab.
>
> Here is one I found through Pricewatch. You might take the fan
> off this and replace it with a fan that doesn't draw
> quite as much current. I don't know how long the other tab
> will last with a thing like this.
>
>
http://www.censuspc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TT-A1365&Category_Code=_CMCPUFAN
> http://www.thermaltake.com/coolers/volcano/rs/a1365.htm
>
> You could try looking through some of the reviews here for
> ideas:
>
>
http://www.overclockers.com/topiclist/index15.asp#HEATSINK%20REVIEWS%20AND%20TIPS
>
> HTH,
> Paul

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

"RonK" <hereiam@homenow.com> wrote in message
news:dgKWc.13964$_H5.369358@news20.bellglobal.com...
> Forgot to add the link:
>
> http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm
>
>
> "Doug" <DZappyNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:m_yWc.1171$HY.181@trnddc03...
> > Hey group,
> >
> > I broke my CPU socket on my S370 TUSL2-C board tonight. Is there a way
to
> > fix this, as far as resoldering a new socket or is that a bit much? It
> > broke right where the HS latch locks on, the little nub that comes out
> > that
> > locks the HS on. There actually 2 lips on each side the HS latches too,
> > and
> > one broke.
> >
> > I've tried super glue, and model glue and neither seemed to work. I
have
> > the HS barely holding on by the one little nub that's left, but I don't
> > think its tight enough cause the system keeps overheating if running at
> > full
> > clock. It's a 1200 MHz 512 L2 @ 147 Degree's F, so I ran it down to
900
> > MHz @ 100 FSB and it seems to be holding @ around 110 Degree's F and
> > running
> > okay.
> >
> > I really hate to give this spectacular board up, so if there's a way to
> > fix
> > it, I"m all ears.
> >
> > Any and all comments welcomed!!
> >
> > Doug
> >
> >
>
>

Try JB Weld.Let dry for 2 days.I've fixed engine blocks with this stuff.The
suggestion of thermal epoxy is probably the best solution ,however,it is
quite permanent if it works or not you're stuck,so to speak.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

Super Glue worked for me. I let it dry for 2 days before trying to attach the
heat sink.


>Subject: Re: Broken Socket
>From: nospam@needed.com (Paul)
>Date: 8/24/2004 4:50 AM Eastern Standard Time
>Message-id: <nospam-2408040451290001@192.168.1.177>
>
>In article <m_yWc.1171$HY.181@trnddc03>, "Doug" <DZappyNOSPAM@hotmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>> Hey group,
>>
>> I broke my CPU socket on my S370 TUSL2-C board tonight. Is there a way to
>> fix this, as far as resoldering a new socket or is that a bit much? It
>> broke right where the HS latch locks on, the little nub that comes out that
>> locks the HS on. There actually 2 lips on each side the HS latches too,
>and
>> one broke.
>>
>> I've tried super glue, and model glue and neither seemed to work. I have
>> the HS barely holding on by the one little nub that's left, but I don't
>> think its tight enough cause the system keeps overheating if running at
>full
>> clock. It's a 1200 MHz 512 L2 @ 147 Degree's F, so I ran it down to 900
>> MHz @ 100 FSB and it seems to be holding @ around 110 Degree's F and
>running
>> okay.
>>
>> I really hate to give this spectacular board up, so if there's a way to fix
>> it, I"m all ears.
>>
>> Any and all comments welcomed!!
>>
>> Doug
>
>Looking at a picture of the motherboard, I don't see a lot of
>options. If the motherboard had holes around the processor
>socket, then you could search for a bolt-on heatsink, but that
>board has too much stuff around the socket to have room for
>the needed holes.
>
>On sockets that have three tabs on each side, the solution when
>you bust off the middle tab, is to find a heatsink product with
>a three tab clamp, where the two remaining tabs can take the load.
>This page has a picture to illustrate the concept:
>
>http://www.overclockers.com/articles451/
>
>But, in your case, there are only two tabs, and if you bust of
>the "centered" one, the remaining tab will only be able to give
>an "asymmetric" down force. This means, if you can find a three
>tab style heatsink (a light one, not one of those blocks of copper),
>the clamp is going to be twisted, and that isn't likely to work
>very well, and could bust off the remaining tab.
>
>Here is one I found through Pricewatch. You might take the fan
>off this and replace it with a fan that doesn't draw
>quite as much current. I don't know how long the other tab
>will last with a thing like this.
>
>
>http://www.censuspc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=T
T-A1365&Category_Code=_CMCPUFAN
>http://www.thermaltake.com/coolers/volcano/rs/a1365.htm
>
>You could try looking through some of the reviews here for
>ideas:
>
>
>http://www.overclockers.com/topiclist/index15.asp#HEATSINK%20REVIEWS%20AN
D%20TIPS
>
>HTH,
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

Eventually, the glue will probably break, and then you may well have to
buy both a new motherboard and a new CPU


LeeBos wrote:

> Super Glue worked for me. I let it dry for 2 days before trying to attach the
> heat sink.
>
>
>
>>Subject: Re: Broken Socket
>>From: nospam@needed.com (Paul)
>>Date: 8/24/2004 4:50 AM Eastern Standard Time
>>Message-id: <nospam-2408040451290001@192.168.1.177>
>>
>>In article <m_yWc.1171$HY.181@trnddc03>, "Doug" <DZappyNOSPAM@hotmail.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hey group,
>>>
>>>I broke my CPU socket on my S370 TUSL2-C board tonight. Is there a way to
>>>fix this, as far as resoldering a new socket or is that a bit much? It
>>>broke right where the HS latch locks on, the little nub that comes out that
>>>locks the HS on. There actually 2 lips on each side the HS latches too,
>>
>>and
>>
>>>one broke.
>>>
>>>I've tried super glue, and model glue and neither seemed to work. I have
>>>the HS barely holding on by the one little nub that's left, but I don't
>>>think its tight enough cause the system keeps overheating if running at
>>
>>full
>>
>>>clock. It's a 1200 MHz 512 L2 @ 147 Degree's F, so I ran it down to 900
>>>MHz @ 100 FSB and it seems to be holding @ around 110 Degree's F and
>>
>>running
>>
>>>okay.
>>>
>>>I really hate to give this spectacular board up, so if there's a way to fix
>>>it, I"m all ears.
>>>
>>>Any and all comments welcomed!!
>>>
>>>Doug
>>
>>Looking at a picture of the motherboard, I don't see a lot of
>>options. If the motherboard had holes around the processor
>>socket, then you could search for a bolt-on heatsink, but that
>>board has too much stuff around the socket to have room for
>>the needed holes.
>>
>>On sockets that have three tabs on each side, the solution when
>>you bust off the middle tab, is to find a heatsink product with
>>a three tab clamp, where the two remaining tabs can take the load.
>>This page has a picture to illustrate the concept:
>>
>>http://www.overclockers.com/articles451/
>>
>>But, in your case, there are only two tabs, and if you bust of
>>the "centered" one, the remaining tab will only be able to give
>>an "asymmetric" down force. This means, if you can find a three
>>tab style heatsink (a light one, not one of those blocks of copper),
>>the clamp is going to be twisted, and that isn't likely to work
>>very well, and could bust off the remaining tab.
>>
>>Here is one I found through Pricewatch. You might take the fan
>>off this and replace it with a fan that doesn't draw
>>quite as much current. I don't know how long the other tab
>>will last with a thing like this.
>>
>>
>>http://www.censuspc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=T
>
> T-A1365&Category_Code=_CMCPUFAN
>
>>http://www.thermaltake.com/coolers/volcano/rs/a1365.htm
>>
>>You could try looking through some of the reviews here for
>>ideas:
>>
>>
>>http://www.overclockers.com/topiclist/index15.asp#HEATSINK%20REVIEWS%20AN
>
> D%20TIPS
>
>>HTH,
>> Paul
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

Sorry, but it's dead.

--
DaveW



"Doug" <DZappyNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:m_yWc.1171$HY.181@trnddc03...
> Hey group,
>
> I broke my CPU socket on my S370 TUSL2-C board tonight. Is there a way to
> fix this, as far as resoldering a new socket or is that a bit much? It
> broke right where the HS latch locks on, the little nub that comes out
that
> locks the HS on. There actually 2 lips on each side the HS latches too,
and
> one broke.
>
> I've tried super glue, and model glue and neither seemed to work. I have
> the HS barely holding on by the one little nub that's left, but I don't
> think its tight enough cause the system keeps overheating if running at
full
> clock. It's a 1200 MHz 512 L2 @ 147 Degree's F, so I ran it down to 900
> MHz @ 100 FSB and it seems to be holding @ around 110 Degree's F and
running
> okay.
>
> I really hate to give this spectacular board up, so if there's a way to
fix
> it, I"m all ears.
>
> Any and all comments welcomed!!
>
> Doug
>
>

 

[Gman]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

In article <m_yWc.1171$HY.181@trnddc03>, "Doug" <DZappyNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Hey group,
>
>I broke my CPU socket on my S370 TUSL2-C board tonight. Is there a way to
>fix this, as far as resoldering a new socket or is that a bit much? It
>broke right where the HS latch locks on, the little nub that comes out that
>locks the HS on. There actually 2 lips on each side the HS latches too, and
>one broke.
>
>I've tried super glue, and model glue and neither seemed to work. I have
>the HS barely holding on by the one little nub that's left, but I don't
>think its tight enough cause the system keeps overheating if running at full
>clock. It's a 1200 MHz 512 L2 @ 147 Degree's F, so I ran it down to 900
>MHz @ 100 FSB and it seems to be holding @ around 110 Degree's F and running
>okay.
>
>I really hate to give this spectacular board up, so if there's a way to fix
>it, I"m all ears.
>
>Any and all comments welcomed!!
>
>Doug
>
>
Nope, your best bet is to go to ebay and win one on auction . I won a P3V4X
with 1 gig cpu for $30 on auction there.