Question BSOD

[nighty_]

i keep getting BSOD “Critical Process Died” after switching from a RX 6700 XT to a RTX 3070 Ti FE, it only happens when i open a game or try playing a game, sometimes it just turns black and restarts, ive tried uninstalling the drivers and it cant be the GPU because i had another 3070 Ti, it was doing the same thing.
Specs: RYZEN 7 3700X
32GB Corsair (8x4)
RTX 3070 Ti FE
Gigabyte X570 Elite wifi
2 1 TB SSDs
NZXT C750 80+ Gold 750W

 

[nighty_]

On file.io, I found a warning that says the file is deleted as soon as someone downloads it... they don't store files more than the time it takes to upload and download it. So, if you uploaded your file, and downloaded it once as a test, that may be why I didn't find it for download. So, just upload it and do nothing more than copy the download link to post here.

Oh alright. Also I put in a another SSD (NVMe), I installed the game, loaded it up fine then changed some graphic settings that the 3070 ti should be able to run, restarted the game to apply those graphics then got black screened then PC rebooted.. (Fresh install of windows 10)
Also dont know if this is useful or not but whenever I load a GPU intensive game, there are like random noises in the PC then its gone(Maybe its my AIO, dont know.)

Do you think its the PSU?

I’ll upload another file in the morning.

 

[Chicano]

Oh alright. Also I put in a another SSD (NVMe), I installed the game, loaded it up fine then changed some graphic settings that the 3070 ti should be able to run, restarted the game to apply those graphics then got black screened then PC rebooted.. (Fresh install of windows 10)
Also dont know if this is useful or not but whenever I load a GPU intensive game, there are like random noises in the PC then its gone(Maybe its my AIO, dont know.)

Do you think its the PSU?

I’ll upload another file in the morning.

PC noises can only be caused by movable parts and those are the cooler fans, and the spinning Hard Drive disks. PSU fans can get noisy and hard drives... you don't use them right?.. So, the only possible noise causing hardware are the fans and particularly the PSU cooling fan.

Sudden shutdowns can be caused by bad PSUs and drivers, either Windows or hardware vendor releases, and dll files. (that I know of).

When I first installed Windows 10, I got sudden shutdowns on several installs, before I updated the drivers from Windows drivers to vendor releases. So those times the cause was bad Windows drivers. So, if you haven't updated them, that is what you should do, especially if you haven't updated the Nvidia driver.

 

[Chicano]

It occurred to me, you can catch the PSU in the act of making noise... if you can get an audio recorder or microphone near the PSU fan, and you make it load a GPU intensive game... if it records the noises loud and clear, that would pinpoint the PSU as the noisemaker and probably suggest its condition... or defect for that matter.

 

[nighty_]

PC noises can only be caused by movable parts and those are the cooler fans, and the spinning Hard Drive disks. PSU fans can get noisy and hard drives... you don't use them right?.. So, the only possible noise causing hardware are the fans and particularly the PSU cooling fan.

Sudden shutdowns can be caused by bad PSUs and drivers, either Windows or hardware vendor releases, and dll files. (that I know of).

When I first installed Windows 10, I got sudden shutdowns on several installs, before I updated the drivers from Windows drivers to vendor releases. So those times the cause was bad Windows drivers. So, if you haven't updated them, that is what you should do, especially if you haven't updated the Nvidia driver.

The Nvidia driver is up to date, and I dont use any HDDs, the drivers are updated to vendor releases. And i’ll try to capture the PSU noise.
I have another PSU but I dont know if it can support a Ryzen 7 3700X and a 3070 ti.. Is a 600W 80+ Bronze good enough for both components? If it is I can use that and see if it causes BSODs.

Edit: Just turned down the graphics, loaded the game, then screen turned black and speakers made static noise then rebooted..

 

[nighty_]

It occurred to me, you can catch the PSU in the act of making noise... if you can get an audio recorder or microphone near the PSU fan, and you make it load a GPU intensive game... if it records the noises loud and clear, that would pinpoint the PSU as the noisemaker and probably suggest its condition... or defect for that matter.

https://youtube.com/shorts/aVcyc9tfCk0?feature=share
https://file.io/On8p3GP1sbiq "Unexpected Store Exception"
https://file.io/Wc8chFemrha1 "Critical Process Died"
https://file.io/FrJ2M80CiTIF "Critical Process Died" (Todays BSOD)

 

[Chicano]

The Nvidia driver is up to date, and I dont use any HDDs, the drivers are updated to vendor releases. And i’ll try to capture the PSU noise.
I have another PSU but I dont know if it can support a Ryzen 7 3700X and a 3070 ti.. Is a 600W 80+ Bronze good enough for both components? If it is I can use that and see if it causes BSODs.

Edit: Just turned down the graphics, loaded the game, then screen turned black and speakers made static noise then rebooted..

In that case, drivers should be out of consideration, but what your 2nd file (1st and 3rd were deleted) shows are issues with many drivers and all those drivers can't be bad, so it definitely is a Windows issue but one causing multiple driver issues, is likely due to general system failure and probably power related.

Instead of guessing, I would advise you to use a Power Supply calculator for a more accurate evaluation of your extra PSU's capability to run your system.

The 5 Best Online Power Supply Calculators

 

[nighty_]

In that case, drivers should be out of consideration, but what your 2nd file (1st and 3rd were deleted) shows are issues with many drivers and all those drivers can't be bad, so it definitely is a Windows issue but one causing multiple driver issues, is likely due to general system failure and probably power related.

Instead of guessing, I would advise you to use a Power Supply calculator for a more accurate evaluation of your extra PSU's capability to run your system.

The 5 Best Online Power Supply Calculators

https://file.io/fORKDqwXW4kb (Store BSOD)
https://file.io/lUEgOWOtyZMC (Critical BSOD)
I removed my AIO, games started fine, shut it down and came back like 3 hours later, games now having same problems.

View: https://youtu.be/XPMtJYFXjrQ

 

[Chicano]

https://file.io/fORKDqwXW4kb (Store BSOD)
https://file.io/lUEgOWOtyZMC (Critical BSOD)
I removed my AIO, games started fine, shut it down and came back like 3 hours later, games now having same problems.

It looks like your system is using the CPU at 100%... what do the Performance tab CPU, RAM, HDD, reading percentages say?. Can you post a readable image of the Takmanager > Performance tab > uploaded to imgur.com?

The image is not clear enough, but it appears the HDD was running at 100%?

 

[nighty_]

It looks like your system is using the CPU at 100%... what do the Performance tab CPU, RAM, HDD, reading percentages say?. Can you post a readable image of the Takmanager > Performance tab > uploaded to imgur.com?

The image is not clear enough, but it appears the HDD was running at 100%?

Yeah the SSD was at 100%, the thing making it at 100% was “System” when i clicked show file location it took me to “ntoskrnl.exe” in the folder System32, as for the CPU I have to check today.

 

[nighty_]

It looks like your system is using the CPU at 100%... what do the Performance tab CPU, RAM, HDD, reading percentages say?. Can you post a readable image of the Takmanager > Performance tab > uploaded to imgur.com?

The image is not clear enough, but it appears the HDD was running at 100%?

Alright just got back, I dont know what caused the CPU to be at 100% but the SSD is being caused by the “ntoskrnl.exe” its causing my game to crash and freeze.
https://youtube.com/shorts/9nbEk5pgj3g?feature=share

 

[Chicano]

Alright just got back, I dont know what caused the CPU to be at 100% but the SSD is being caused by the “ntoskrnl.exe” its causing my game to crash and freeze.
https://youtube.com/shorts/9nbEk5pgj3g?feature=share

Well, ntoskrnl is the core of the Operating System, and there's not much I can think about getting that working right... maybe doing a general cleanup and updating, maybe testing with a Linux distro, switching the SSD for a HDD just for testing purposes or even getting another SSD, perhaps one small but of the best quality you can find, to discard any dubious SSD quality.

Also check if your CPU is working at full speed and not at reduced performance by Power Options.

When I get freezes and I check the Taskmanager > Performance graph, and the graph is at 100%, all CPU, RAM and HDD are running at comfortable speeds, but the OS is locked and bussy working on something... so the culprit is the OS (in my case Win 8.1) So, it's like it always has been; the Windows OS.

 

[nighty_]

Well, ntoskrnl is the core of the Operating System, and there's not much I can think about getting that working right... maybe doing a general cleanup and updating, maybe testing with a Linux distro, switching the SSD for a HDD just for testing purposes or even getting another SSD, perhaps one small but of the best quality you can find, to discard any dubious SSD quality.

Tried switching to another SSD, ntoskrnl did the same thing.
Heres the games DMP files when it crashes it might help.. https://file.io/ULhd2zmowstn

 

[Chicano]

Tried switching to another SSD, ntoskrnl did the same thing.
Heres the games DMP files when it crashes it might help.. https://file.io/ULhd2zmowstn

The file comes up in code,... impossible to read.

Try the Event Viewer

 

[nighty_]

The file comes up in code,... impossible to read.

Try the Event Viewer

Oh. Nothing happening in event viewer....

 

[Chicano]

Oh. Nothing happening in event viewer....

The real problem is you're not the only one with the same problem, I've been advising here on two other cases of the same issue, and one or two others somewhere else, and nothing they do (same as you), gets it solved... and all comes down to the ntoskrnl windows process. Deficient Microsoft coding if you ask me.

 

[Chicano]

And I notice the type of deficient coding because old weak, low processing and memory power computers worked slowly, but they got the job done... if they ran across heavier loads they couldn't handle, they would slow down, and kept working till they got every bit across... but now, they have extra processing power and still when they come across heavy computing loads, they simply lock up and quit.... even when both CPU and RAM are taking a cool stroll, Windows gets locked up, and at times it stays that way until the user intervenes with the power button.

 

[nighty_]

The real problem is you're not the only one with the same problem, I've been advising here on two other cases of the same issue, and one or two others somewhere else, and nothing they do (same as you), gets it solved... and all comes down to the ntoskrnl windows process. Deficient Microsoft coding if you ask me.

Oh, then what should I do?

 

[nighty_]

And I notice the type of deficient coding because old weak, low processing and memory power computers worked slowly, but they got the job done... if they ran across heavier loads they couldn't handle, they would slow down, and kept working till they got every bit across... but now, they have extra processing power and still when they come across heavy computing loads, they simply lock up and quit.... even when both CPU and RAM are taking a cool stroll, Windows gets locked up, and at times it stays that way until the user intervenes with the power button.

What do you mean by " until the user intervenes with the power button."?

 

[Chicano]

Oh, then what should I do?

I'd say format and do a new fresh install... but try a different OS installer just in case that one has errors.

What do you mean by " until the user intervenes with the power button."?

Pushing the power button and holding it till the computer shuts down. That's recommended for when computers freeze and nothing you do unlocks them, the last resort is the power button. It may take up to 10 seconds before shutting down.

 

[nighty_]

I'd say format and do a new fresh install... but try a different OS installer just in case that one has errors.



Pushing the power button and holding it till the computer shuts down. That's recommended for when computers freeze and nothing you do unlocks them, the last resort is the power button. It may take up to 10 seconds before shutting down.

"I'd say format and do a new fresh install... but try a different OS installer just in case that one has errors." So should I install the windows 10 media on my laptop instead?

"Pushing the power button and holding it till the computer shuts down. That's recommended for when computers freeze and nothing you do unlocks them, the last resort is the power button. It may take up to 10 seconds before shutting down." It doesnt fully freeze, it just freezes for like 5 seconds and now my Windows drive is being used up to 100% with task manager not showing whats using it..

Edit: https://file.io/UM5RcXBD16vG "Unexpected Store Exception" Happened just now while in the game.

Edit 2:

Isnt that highlighted drive supposed to say "Local Disk C:"??..

Doing the repair doesnt work for me for some reason, it says "Scanning and repairing C:" then it freezes and loads into windows 10.

 

[Chicano]

"Unexpected Store Exception" …. I have seen that process causing freezes for several days, answering related posts. It mentions Windows files causing it, them being drivers, dynamic link libraries, ntoskrnl, etc. No matter what I and others have suggested, works… the applied suggestions stabilize the OS but as soon as they start gaming, the issue returns.

All that point to the Windows OS being corrupt, affected by hardware malfunctions, or both.

That’s why I’ve recommended to you, to do a clean reformat and new installation. You may think it’ll return to the same story… but there are good chances it will not, and if it does, and does it as soon as you run the suspicious game for the first time, it should indicate a power issue, which can be easier to solve than a complex software error such as this.

I notice from the image that the second SSD is connected as a network drive… how/what is the drive connected to?, do you have the game software or part of it in that network drive? Describe that please.

Isnt that highlighted drive supposed to say "Local Disk C:"??..

That's exactly why I ask you to explain how you have the selected drive connected to the computer. If you install it inside a PC case or even second drive in a laptop which haves two HDD bays, even if you connect it via USB adapter or if the drive is a pendrive; a direct drive letter should be assigned to it… but the slashes, Q mark and Volume tittle, those are assigned to Network drives, that usually are intended for file storage. Then there's that final comment that you start scanning drive C:\??? I don't see the drive letter on the image, so, and I need to know exactly how that drive connects to the System, and how is drive C:\ also connected? I need that cleared up to understand the issue better.

 

[nighty_]

"Unexpected Store Exception" …. I have seen that process causing freezes for several days, answering related posts. It mentions Windows files causing it, them being drivers, dynamic link libraries, ntoskrnl, etc. No matter what I and others have suggested, works… the applied suggestions stabilize the OS but as soon as they start gaming, the issue returns.

All that point to the Windows OS being corrupt, affected by hardware malfunctions, or both.

That’s why I’ve recommended to you, to do a clean reformat and new installation. You may think it’ll return to the same story… but there are good chances it will not, and if it does, and does it as soon as you run the suspicious game for the first time, it should indicate a power issue, which can be easier to solve than a complex software error such as this.

I notice from the image that the second SSD is connected as a network drive… how/what is the drive connected to?, do you have the game software or part of it in that network drive? Describe that please.



That's exactly why I ask you to explain how you have the selected drive connected to the computer. If you install it inside a PC case or even second drive in a laptop which haves two HDD bays, even if you connect it via USB adapter or if the drive is a pendrive; a direct drive letter should be assigned to it… but the slashes, Q mark and Volume tittle, those are assigned to Network drives, that usually are intended for file storage. Then there's that final comment that you start scanning drive C:\??? I don't see the drive letter on the image, so, and I need to know exactly how that drive connects to the System, and how is drive C:\ also connected? I need that cleared up to understand the issue better.

The "Games" SSD is a internal SSD connected to a sata port but the motherboard recognizes it as a portable SSD I dont know why, I didnt have that issue on my ASUS B450 Motherboard
The C: drive is a Internal M.2 SSD (PCIE 3 connected to a PCIE 4 slot).

Also there is random USB disconnect and connect sounds when I start the PC and sometimes when its idle...

 

[Chicano]

That may be the source of the whole problem... if the system recognizes the internal games SSD as a portable USB and assigns it the USB limited speed, you can guess what that will do... and it's worse the way I see it from your Disk Manager image where that drive appears not as a USB portable drive but a Network Drive which In my own experience is even slower than a USB drive.

Try fixing the drive from the Windows Disk Management:
Select the drive marked as \\?\Volume{ddd25..... right click the mouse, click "Change the Drive Letter and Paths" next click "Add" and select the letter for the Games SSD. The letter can be any of the available letters except letter C which you may need to assign to the OS drive which now has letter D assigned.

To avoid confusions, start with this:
Click the Start button > in the search bar type “Run” and in Run type “Regedit” next in Regedit, with a right click, select the HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE Hive.... next browse down to; SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Winlogon… in the Winlogon right pane search for the value named “Userinit”, and in its data to the right, it should read: C:\Windows\system32\userinit.exe,

If that’s right and Windows is using letter C for it’s OS drive, you can safely remove the D letter in Disk Management, and apply letter C to the OS drive… Do this before anything else to liberate letter D which you can apply to the second and games SSD drive.

If this goes right, the main window of the Windows File Explorer, should show both SSD drives as C:\ and D:\ which to avoid confusions, you should name something like:
C:\Windows 10
D:\Gaming

 

[nighty_]

That may be the source of the whole problem... if the system recognizes the internal games SSD as a portable USB and assigns it the USB limited speed, you can guess what that will do... and it's worse the way I see it from your Disk Manager image where that drive appears not as a USB portable drive but a Network Drive which In my own experience is even slower than a USB drive.

Try fixing the drive from the Windows Disk Management:
Select the drive marked as \\?\Volume{ddd25..... right click the mouse, click "Change the Drive Letter and Paths" next click "Add" and select the letter for the Games SSD. The letter can be any of the available letters except letter C which you may need to assign to the OS drive which now has letter D assigned.

To avoid confusions, start with this:
Click the Start button > in the search bar type “Run” and in Run type “Regedit” next in Regedit, with a right click, select the HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE Hive.... next browse down to; SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Winlogon… in the Winlogon right pane search for the value named “Userinit”, and in its data to the right, it should read: C:\Windows\system32\userinit.exe,

If that’s right and Windows is using letter C for it’s OS drive, you can safely remove the D letter in Disk Management, and apply letter C to the OS drive… Do this before anything else to liberate letter D which you can apply to the second and games SSD drive.

If this goes right, the main window of the Windows File Explorer, should show both SSD drives as C:\ and D:\ which to avoid confusions, you should name something like:
C:\Windows 10
D:\Gaming

I just reinstalled windows (Sorry didnt see this reply when I was reinstalling) "C:\" No errors found..

"That may be the source of the whole problem... if the system recognizes the internal games SSD as a portable USB and assigns it the USB limited speed, you can guess what that will do..."
I dont think thats the problem though, when I had a RTX 3080, everything was fine, it started when I downgraded to a RX 6700 XT then it got worse when I went to a RTX 3070 Ti..

EDIT:

This is on a VERY FRESH install of windows 10 (Downloaded media from laptop this time)

 

[Chicano]

What I can tell from the dark image, is the system identifies three drives first is C drive (which from the Disk Management appears as D:\),
The second drive in file Explorer is Drive D:\ and the third drive again D:\ as a Network drive, three Items or Drives in total... but you only have Two of them... So, it should be ok to delete the Network Drive D:\ IF you have all the same files as copies and both drives hold the same number of GBs it should be Safe to delete the Network drive D, but first do a test as follows:

1. Shut down the computer, and open the computer case, and remove the SATA data cable from Drive D: Games.
2. Next start the computer and, from the File Explorer, disconnect the D:\ Network Drive same as the one that appears as \\?\Volume{ddd25.. in the Disk Management. Read full instructions for this disconnection and removal of the Network drive.

Disconnect mapped network drive on Windows 10 using File Explorer
https://pureinfotech.com/remove-network-drive-windows-10/

Once you have all drives well organized and defined, the USB connect - disconnect sound should disappear.

BTW I said delete instead of disconnect, so don't delete a thing, just virtually disconnect the network drive.