Budget Ryzen 1800x GTX 1080 Ti Build

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RogueRequest

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Feb 21, 2013
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I am getting ready to build a new PC. The more I look at pre-built PCs the more that I keep remembering just how much money I was able to save, and then reinvest, on my old system. Last time I ended up spending way too much money, just had to have that awsome case and that pricey mobo and it just kept adding up.

I am trying to build more budget this time, but this an aim for power. I would love any kind of helpful feedback, even constructive criticism. Faults I might have overlooked, cheaper alternatives that are just as good, or very inexspensive upgrades I should consider would all be helpful.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/RogueRequest/saved/Vhx3CJ
$1651.46

AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor- I really don't want to have to upgrade for a while. Also, I kept waiting and waiting and waiting until eventually I got so fed up I gave my last PC to my sister rather than wait anymore. It just wouldn't feel right not going for it now that it's out.

Noctua - NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler - It's really good and I plan on overlocking my CPU to 4.0Ghz.

G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory - I went with 2 sticks instead of 4 so that I would have the option of easily upgrading in the future but dropping in another 2 sticks, also why I chose board with 4 dimm slots.

Samsung - 850 EVO 120GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive - This'll be my first build with an M.2 drive in it.
Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive - Always worked for me. Again, I'm not aiming for too special either.

MSI - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Founders Edition Video Card - It's cheap, and if I end up pushing my build back again because of life I may end up waiting for a Vega card, so the GPU isn't really that big of a deal as far as advice goes.

Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case - I had to upgrade to a full tower and this is one of the cheapest full towers on the market.

EVGA - 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

I am getting Windows 10, but a friend is buying it for me so it's not on the parts list.

Thanks in advanve for any help that I may recieve and for take the time to read my lengthy post.
 
Solution
Herc08
So, a couple of things. First the 1800x does NOT come with a stock cooler. So you will to invest in one. You can either go the AIO route, or get a nice Noctua or be quiet! cooler. It even says taht in your list "AMD - Ryzen 7 1800X 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor does not include a stock CPU cooler. Adding a CPU Cooler to your part list is recommended."

Second, what will you be doing? I get that you don't want to upgrade in a while, but if you are not doing heavy included tasks, then it's no point in dropping $500 for a CPU, when you can possible save $300. If you are gaming, doing light editing then a 1600 is probably best for you. You can even upgrade to teh 1700 for 8 cores and 16 threads. I think the 1800x is for those who need a computer...
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Looks good. Personally I am not a fan of ASrock in any way shape or form, but it is cheaper than MSI, Gigabyte or ASUS. Besides that I know Ryzen likes faster memory so you may wan to invest in some 2666 or just a 3000 kit and set it to 2666. whatever is cheaper.
 
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1) the 1800x does NOT come with a stock cooler

2) fast Memory is a must with ryzen it greatly increases performance

3)founders edition gpus are loud and slow, get an aftermarket cooled one

4) PSU is fine as long as it's not a supernova Nex or g1 (g2 g3 or gq are great)
 
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So, a couple of things. First the 1800x does NOT come with a stock cooler. So you will to invest in one. You can either go the AIO route, or get a nice Noctua or be quiet! cooler. It even says taht in your list "AMD - Ryzen 7 1800X 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor does not include a stock CPU cooler. Adding a CPU Cooler to your part list is recommended."

Second, what will you be doing? I get that you don't want to upgrade in a while, but if you are not doing heavy included tasks, then it's no point in dropping $500 for a CPU, when you can possible save $300. If you are gaming, doing light editing then a 1600 is probably best for you. You can even upgrade to teh 1700 for 8 cores and 16 threads. I think the 1800x is for those who need a computer that can handle heavy loads at once. It's like buying a Ferrari that goes 0 to 60 in 2.2 seconds, but your daily task includes going up the street with multiple stop signs. You have a beast, but not really taking advantage.

You also may want to up the memory. Again, this is depending on what you are doing. If you are just gaming, having at least 2400mhz is good. If you are editing, you may want 2666 to 3200mhz depending on what you can afford.

I wouldn't go with a 120gb. Then again, I wouldn't go with one from PNY. Get a Samsung 850 EVO 250gb and you will be happy. You can pair it with a 1TB or 2TB hard drive, and you should never have to worry about space again..unless you buy everything off of steam.

I wouldn't recommend a founder's card. You want to get an aftermarket card. Don't get me wrong, it works and it's still a beast, but an aftermarket you can drive that even further. Not to mention you will get better cooling as well.

Other than that, it's not a bad build. While it works, it can use some improvements. That's just my three cents.
 
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Solution
I got a founder 1080Ti, Its not slow and i'm sitting at 2037 OCed 24/7 folding. It is however loud(er) with the fan cranked to 70%. Unless you shunt mod it or flash the XOC BIOS, the FE card will perform 99% the same. A few custom PCBs ones do hit 2100, but its rare and you are looking at an extra $100-150 just for the possibility to get that extra 75mhz.
 
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I add a cooler.
Cooler Master - Hyper 212 LED 66.3 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler

I changed out the RAM for some 2666, with out too much of an increase in price. It's the also pretty close to the same stuff I had in my last build.
Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory

As far as the graphics card goes, it's mostly placeholder but it's nice to get some info on it none the less because if I end up going down the 1080 Ti route, which is likely, I don't want something that will be hold me back. I will probably go aftermarket, but there's always the change that I hold out for Vega.

As far as what I am planning on doing with this rig it's mainly 4K gaming, for as long as possible with out upgrades and on a budget. I also plan on watching a lot of videos on it, mostly 720p/1080p h.254, but lately I've been getting more and more 1080p/4K HEVC h.256 files that are completely unplayable on my $250 laptop that I use for writing. That's pretty much it. Maybe the occasional video edit, but nothing fancy and probably on Windows Movie Maker (because I'm a pansy). If you think that a less expesnive CPU is the route to go for what I am doing then let me know. As it is thought it's right near the top of my budget, which is $1750. If I break that it pushed my build date until September, rather than August, for sure.

With this kind of budget I can easily replace the entire build every 2-3 years and donate the old one to a friend/relative, just like my sister is running my old FX-8350/7970 Ghx Edition build. I built that one in March of 2013 and gave it way in Nov of 2015. I've gone PC less since by choice, not financials, but at the same time I extremely frugal by nature.
 
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I would still downgrade to a 1700 and use that savings for a and SSD. That way you don't even have to worry about a cooler and you can use the one that comes with it.

 
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How much of a difference will downgrading from an 1800x to a 1700 have on gaming. Tbh, these last couple of years of not keeping have left me a little hazy, and quite possible lazy, in certain things? As it is, I already have an SSD on the list. It's a cheap PNY, but it's similar to one I used to have and had no problems with. If you're suggesting an upgrade to my SSD, would you have any reccomendations that aren't too terribley pricey?
 
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Western Digital has some nice ones that's it a bit lower than Samsung. However, if you can Samsung is king for SSD at the moment. For gaming you will see little to zero loss. Actually it's been proven that most games don't really improve going from 1600 to 1700. So if you are not crazy about other heavy tasks, then the 1600 will be the better VAULE. But if you need those extra two cores, then go for the 1700. If you are extreme about the 1800x, then get it, but a Hpyer 212 is not going to cut it. Either a beefy Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Noctua D15.
 
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Get Ryzen 1700 instead of 1800x and should be able to overclock it to near the same levls
A 350 board is more then adaquate, the only thing 370 really gives you is SLI ability
Get a better SSD, PNY and all the budget ones (ADATA, Kingston, Sandisk, WD, OCZ) are all running meh 3D Toshiba TLC
Higher freqency ram for AMD, shoot for 3000 or 3200 ram.
 
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I dropped down to a 1700 and added a Nuctua D15. I am starting to think that it probably would be best to overlock. I wasn't on planning on doing it before, not because I was afraid to or don't know how, but because of I am lazy. It has dramatically dropped my price, even with the addition of the cooler.

I also changed my SSD over to a Samsun EVO 850 M.2 drive and upgraded my RAM back to G.Skill Ripjaw V Series but at 3200 rather than 2400 like it was.
 
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One interesting thing about the Ryzen 1700, is that it's pretty much the same CPU as the 1800X, just clocked lower. It's generally possible to overclock it to be close in performance to an 1800X, though you might not manage quite the same clocks, since AMD selects chips that are guaranteed to clock to those levels for the 1800X.

If you don't want to mess with overclocking, there's also the 1700X, which doesn't come with a cooler, but is clocked in between the 1700 and 1800X by default. Or, if you don't think you'll necessarily have need for 8 cores (most existing games get by fine on 4), the 1600X comes clocked identically to the 1800X, only with 6 cores instead of 8, and costing $200 less than an 1800X (again, also without a cooler, unless you drop down to the lower-clocked 1600).

These are of course just some options, if you are looking to save some money on the build, or redirect it to some other component, like a larger SSD, for example.
 
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After thinking about it I am fairly confident I can overlock a 1700, the last time I did any overlock was back in 2013 when I overclocked my FX-8350 by about 15%.

This has been a huge amount of help though. I feel like my build has improved way more then I thought possible when I started and there hasn't been hardly an increase in price at all. I am way more stoked to start this build than I was this morning. I still welcome any addition advice though, what I've got has been awesome.

[Edit]: I will also be buying some more case fans for it, either Thermaltakes or Corsairs, probably with some LEDs. I just don't know how many I want and that can wait until after the build and I can just Amazon Prime whatever I decide on that day.
 
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I was really hoping that was the case, and it's nice for some confirmation. I decided to change my case to the Corsair Carbide Quiet 600Q because if it. I like minimilistic cases these days, especially since owning a Rosewill Blackhawk-Ultra outfitted with so man red led fans and lights that it looked like a space heater.
 
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