Hello everyone. I'm pretty new to this stuff, I am trying to learn how to build PCs so I took my old one apart and removed everything so I could try to put it back together. I went to turn it on after all that and I noticed smoke coming out of the case, when I opened it up I noticed the cable I linked an image to was glowing red hot and smoking, I was just looking for some advice as to what could be causing this, thanks.
- Status
Hello everyone. I'm pretty new to this stuff, I am trying to learn how to build PCs so I took my old one apart and removed everything so I could try to put it back together. I went to turn it on after all that and I noticed smoke coming out of the case, when I opened it up I noticed the cable I linked an image to was glowing red hot and smoking, I was just looking for some advice as to what could be causing this, thanks.
- Mar 16, 2013
- 179,631
- 22,154
- 184,590
Please give us a FULL parts list of all things involved
Bottom line - One or more components is totally cooked.
- Oct 11, 2014
- 39,447
- 4,396
- 146,290
Update your post to include full system hardware specs and OS information.
Include PSU: make, model, wattage, age, condition.
Disk drives: make, model, capacity, how full.
Two likely causes:
1) The PSU was not able to provide the necessary power to the devices connected via that cable.
2) The cables and connections being used appear to have been modified in ways that are both incorrect and poorly done.
Cut that cable into pieces and throw it away so it can never be used again.
Further use of the cable will certainly cause some system damage totally ruining your PC at best or causing a home fire at worst.
You must find the applicable documentation for the components being use for your build.
Begining with the motherboard.
You must use the correct cables without any modifications, splices, adapters, converters etc. barring those specifically intended for such purposes.
For example if the build includes a modular PSU then only the cables that came with that PSU should used. As it, unmodified.
Stop what you are doing and find a knowledgeable family member or friend to help.
You may not be so lucky next time.
Include PSU: make, model, wattage, age, condition.
Disk drives: make, model, capacity, how full.
Two likely causes:
1) The PSU was not able to provide the necessary power to the devices connected via that cable.
2) The cables and connections being used appear to have been modified in ways that are both incorrect and poorly done.
Cut that cable into pieces and throw it away so it can never be used again.
Further use of the cable will certainly cause some system damage totally ruining your PC at best or causing a home fire at worst.
You must find the applicable documentation for the components being use for your build.
Begining with the motherboard.
You must use the correct cables without any modifications, splices, adapters, converters etc. barring those specifically intended for such purposes.
For example if the build includes a modular PSU then only the cables that came with that PSU should used. As it, unmodified.
Stop what you are doing and find a knowledgeable family member or friend to help.
You may not be so lucky next time.
I had it built by a local company years ago, and it was working fine until I messed with it lol. The entire computer is about 5 or 6 years old, including all components.
PSU: ThermalTake Smart 650W, It's about 5 or 6 years old. It seemed to be in good condition.
Motherboard: GigaByte GA-Z87X-D3H
GPU: Zotac Geforce GTX 760
Memory: 2 Corsair xms3 8GB
HDD : 1 750GB HDD
DVD Drive: Not sure.
Just to clarify, I'm not a total newbie when it comes to this stuff, Ive been in school for the past year learning about this. I'm just about to take my A+.
PSU: ThermalTake Smart 650W, It's about 5 or 6 years old. It seemed to be in good condition.
Motherboard: GigaByte GA-Z87X-D3H
GPU: Zotac Geforce GTX 760
Memory: 2 Corsair xms3 8GB
HDD : 1 750GB HDD
DVD Drive: Not sure.
Just to clarify, I'm not a total newbie when it comes to this stuff, Ive been in school for the past year learning about this. I'm just about to take my A+.
- Mar 16, 2013
- 179,631
- 22,154
- 184,590
- Mar 16, 2013
- 179,631
- 22,154
- 184,590
I know, I'm extremely confused. I have checked the cables plugged into my motherboard and my hard drive and DVD drive and everything seems to be in order. Also, the Molex cable itself did not have anything happen to it, but the cable attached to it is the one that glowed. I am not really familiar with this particular cable.
It takes a fair amount of power to make a cable glow red hot and melt the insulation.
One way to demonstrate this is to short out a car battery with a length of thin insulated copper wire, e.g. 20awg. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!
You probably shorted out the +12V rail on the Molex connector (yellow wire), either to ground (0V) or possibly to the +5V rail (red wire). This could happen if you managed to plug the Molex cable into the (now destroyed) cable the wrong way round.
Molex connectors are "keyed" to prevent reverse connection, but if you apply enough brute force, you can connect them back-to-front with disastrous results.
If the insulation hasn't melted completely, check to see if the red wire on one side of the Molex interface is connected to a yellow wire on the other side.
The 12V rail in most ATX PSUs is rated anywhere between 20A (240W) and 125A (1500W) which is more than enough to melt cables before the overcurrent protection trips in.
Check what's on the other end of the melted cable plugged into the Molex connector. Whatever's at the far end is probably fried.
I'd also consider replacing the PSU. Since a cable outside the PSU has melted, it's possible a cable inside the PSU has melted too, which could render the unit unsafe. You do not want to take chances with devices connected to the AC mains.
One way to demonstrate this is to short out a car battery with a length of thin insulated copper wire, e.g. 20awg. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!
You probably shorted out the +12V rail on the Molex connector (yellow wire), either to ground (0V) or possibly to the +5V rail (red wire). This could happen if you managed to plug the Molex cable into the (now destroyed) cable the wrong way round.
Molex connectors are "keyed" to prevent reverse connection, but if you apply enough brute force, you can connect them back-to-front with disastrous results.
If the insulation hasn't melted completely, check to see if the red wire on one side of the Molex interface is connected to a yellow wire on the other side.
The 12V rail in most ATX PSUs is rated anywhere between 20A (240W) and 125A (1500W) which is more than enough to melt cables before the overcurrent protection trips in.
Check what's on the other end of the melted cable plugged into the Molex connector. Whatever's at the far end is probably fried.
I'd also consider replacing the PSU. Since a cable outside the PSU has melted, it's possible a cable inside the PSU has melted too, which could render the unit unsafe. You do not want to take chances with devices connected to the AC mains.
- Aug 24, 2012
- 17,787
- 2,258
- 89,240
Electricity doesn't work that way. Assuming that mess laying on the floor is coming from the power supply then the problem is somewhere to the left in that picture. Possibly (likely) within that connector, or, inside that mess just to the right.
- Apr 3, 2018
- 13,384
- 3,801
- 70,890
Possible that the cable was accidentally trapped between metal parts of the case?
Should have thrown a breaker for sure.
This power supply is cheap and non modular. All you can do at this point is purchase a new power supply with better build quality, reinstall it correctly with the proper cabling and see what works and doesn't. It could damage the power supply.
The alternative would be to take it to a shop. There is nothing in that case that would warrant paying a professional to fix, IMO. It would be best to put aside a budget for a new build and ask some questions before proceeding in areas you are not familiar with.
Should have thrown a breaker for sure.
This power supply is cheap and non modular. All you can do at this point is purchase a new power supply with better build quality, reinstall it correctly with the proper cabling and see what works and doesn't. It could damage the power supply.
The alternative would be to take it to a shop. There is nothing in that case that would warrant paying a professional to fix, IMO. It would be best to put aside a budget for a new build and ask some questions before proceeding in areas you are not familiar with.
If the OCP (Over Current Protection) on the 12V rail in the ATX PSU kicked in at, say, 500W, the power supply might draw 600W in Constant Current limiting mode - well below the level required to trip a circuit breaker. If the OCP works in Foldback mode, the PSU might pull only 200W when the 12V rail is short circuited. Either way, the PSU should be regarded as scrap and replaced.
https://www.codrey.com/learn/foldback-current-limiting-little-secrets/
https://www.codrey.com/learn/foldback-current-limiting-little-secrets/
- Status
TRENDING THREADS
-
-
-
News Introducing the Tom’s Hardware Premium Beta: Exclusive content for members
- Started by Admin
- Replies: 43
-
-
-
Discussion What's your favourite video game you've been playing?- Started by amdfangirl
- Replies: 4K
-
Facebook
Twitter
Instagram