Can't get 5Ghz Speed (Last 4.9Ghz) 4790k

[veboys79]

Hi all

My System Specs:

Intel Core i7 4790k
ASUS Maximus VII Hero
Kingston Technology 16BG -1600Mhz - DDR3 (Non XMP)
AORUS Geforce GTX1060 Xtreme Edition 6GB (Rev 2.0)
CORSAIR H100i V2 Liquid Cooler
FSP Epsilon 600Watts 80Plus White
CORSAIR Crystal 570X Casing
BenQ GW2270H 22" 1080p LED - Flicker Free


Finally delidded processor and reached upto 4.9Ghz @1.316v


Passed
RealBench, Cinebench, Intel Burn Test.
Playing CPU Intensive games like AC Odyssey, NFS Payback and Agents of Mayhem etc etc.....

@4.9Ghz with 1.316v max Temp reached upto 63c

But one thing I noticed that in BIOS I set voltage 1.316 whereas during Cinebench, max voltage 1.314v / 1.315v. Do not understand. You can see in Picture.


Anyway, I tried to reach 5Ghz with 1.375v then 1.4v then 1.425v then 1.45v and last 1.475v but not working though passed CPU-Z Benchmark. Here is the link:

http://


But Cinebench is not working though its start and after 2 - 3 seconds, BSOD with error "Clock_Watchdog_Timeout".

So I set BIOS default, boot in Windows 10 and try to OC with INTEL XTU i.e. 5Ghz @1.425v and when I try to Bench via INTEL XTU, system instantly shutdown after 1 Second and restart..

I have this Power Supply FSP Epsilon 600Watts 80Plus White (4 - 5 years) old. Is it good for heavy overclocking for CPU & GPU?

Please let me know what should I do to reach 5Ghz i.e. is there any setting(s) via BIOS or else......... Hope you guys will help.

 

[DavidM012]

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2554192/4790k-ghz.html

They cite the silicon lottery there's nothing you can do and you are pushing the voltage too high. Go back to 1.316 @ 4.9ghz. Nice benchmark, double my single core and 3x times my multicore.

 

[veboys79]

You mean that I should leave as it is. However, one thing I forget to mention that when I set clock speed per core i.e.

50, 50, 49 and 48 and set voltage to 1.365v, its easily passed cinebench but got maximum clock 4.8Ghz i.e. the lower one, I set.

I heard people says that setting VCCIN and LLC can do the trick.

Don't know about these things exactly i.e. how to set these things in BIOS.

 

[DavidM012]

I mean you should keep it at 4.9ghz and no more than 1.35v and don't exceed 1.4 volts. Tweaks might but in likelihood won't. I haven't oc'd an intel board but, on my sabertooth tweaks to reach 5ghz don't get anywhere. There is such a variety of settings finding ones that work is difficult and would be pure luck.

You can search the boards for 5ghz 4790k overclocks and see if they posted info about how they got there but pushing the voltage past 1.4 probably isn't it.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-3082999/4790k-overclocked-5ghz-water.html

This guy said he lapped the cpu block that is sanded it flat as possible through graduated grits of sandpaper. I lapped my cpu and block starting and 36grit and working up to 5000 grit. They were already quite flat to begin with though. I also applied a bit of silver plating sol'n but I don't know if there is any difference.

You could also try one of the newer thermal greases that have a high w/m2 but it's probably wasting money on something that won't make any real difference.

I could easily hit 5ghz on my fx4350 if I turned down the memory from ddr3 2400 but I'm overclocking both the cpu clock & it's mem controller because it was marketed at ddr3 1866. 100mhz to 5ghz will load windows at ddr3 2400 but is unstable and only improves the benchmark by 18 points.

https://valid.x86.fr/k9uv3j

Single core performance beats the 9590 at 4.9ghz ddr3 2400.

Basically if you remove temps. as the limiting factor you can concentrate on the voltage. Even more cooling than you have now might improve it by lowering the idle temp but that is also a caveat, if it costs you more than a tenner for some thermal grease and sandpaper I wouldn't bother.

 

[The Paladin]

@ 1.35v that cpu isn't going to last long... the rule of thumb is 1.29v max, and most 4790K cannot do 5Ghz, few do 4.9GHz, usually 4.7-4.8 is what you get from them, if you want them to remain reliable and not BSOID all the time on you while gaming. But what do I know only a conservative hardware guy who ran a 4790K OC'ed at 4.8ghz for 5 years.

 

[veboys79]

@ 1.35v that cpu isn't going to last long... the rule of thumb is 1.29v max, and most 4790K cannot do 5Ghz, few do 4.9GHz, usually 4.7-4.8 is what you get from them, if you want them to remain reliable and not BSOID all the time on you while gaming. But what do I know only a conservative hardware guy who ran a 4790K OC'ed at 4.8ghz for 5 years.

Processor Stable at 1.316v @4.9Ghz.

Anyway, tell me is my power supply good enough to handle 4.8Ghz at 1.275v with AORUS Geforce GTX1060 Xtreme Edition 6GB (Rev 2.0).

You can find pic of Power supply in first post. The combine power showing by PSU is 575 Watts and this PSU have 85% efficiency rating.

If I overclock CPU to 4.8Ghz and GPU to 1873Mhz and 8316 Mhz (Clock and memory), So will my power supply handle both.

Because I read on many forums that while overclock processor it needs more power....

Am I understand it correctly about 85% efficiency i.e.

(575 Watts combine power on 12v rails X 85% efficiency = around 489 Watts max on 50% load)

GPU recommended power 400 Watts (though it used less watts)
CPU require more watts when overclock

Should all devices start struggling to get enough power / headroom to run properly?

What you guys says?

Please help me out. So I may decide in correct way.

 

[The Paladin]

well I visited FSPlifestyle.,com (your PSu web site) and I can say that NONE of the PSU they carry remotely use the label you have in your system, which leads me to a question, how old is your power supply, if more than 3 years I would seriously consider a) stop OC b) replace PSU before pushing on OC.

yes your correct more your OC, more it draws amperage and if your psu is not solid you can cause a chain reaction starting at the PSU, and when it goes out takes out motherboard, video card, ram even cpu out dead. so be careful

 

[veboys79]

well I visited FSPlifestyle.,com (your PSu web site) and I can say that NONE of the PSU they carry remotely use the label you have in your system, which leads me to a question, how old is your power supply, if more than 3 years I would seriously consider a) stop OC b) replace PSU before pushing on OC.

yes your correct more your OC, more it draws amperage and if your psu is not solid you can cause a chain reaction starting at the PSU, and when it goes out takes out motherboard, video card, ram even cpu out dead. so be careful

I bought this power supply 4 - 5 years ago. I have these Power Supplies available here officially. Please advise which one should I go with:

Corsair TX750M 750W 80 Plus Gold Semi-Modular Power Supply

FSP Hydro G HG750 750W 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply

 

[John_fishyy]

Id go for the fsp hydro g, corsair is a great company and make great power supplies, and also they are both 80 plus gold. So effeiency wise they're going to perform the same. So comes down to what looks better and also better fan, which the fsp has a fdb (fluid dynamic being) whereas the corsair has a rb (rifled bearing) fan, and the fdb last longer than the rb. Then i would consider the cables, which the fsp has nice flat single row ribbon cables, whereas corsairs are the generic plastic webbing sleeved ables, granted they are black though. However, id still go with the FSP. Also quick bit bout your overclocking, coming from a moderate overclocker,(haven't done ln2, but have done dry ice and cryogenic fluid, in which im more active on there overclock.net community, but visit her sometimes) someone has stated earlier in the thread that 4790k's don't get quite to 5gz, around 4.7ish, so for you to get to 4.9 is great, you won the silicone lottery, and also yes your power supply could have an effect on overclocking as you said (bu if you weren't oc'ing, the psi you have would be fine for the 1060 and 4790k) so getting a new psi might help your overclock by making sure your cpu gets a constant voltage with no spikes or drops. Also, i know im kind of jumping around subjects, just trying to get everything you asked. The reason why youre getting 1.314 and 1.315, is there is a voltage drop (regardless of psu) of around 100-200 millivolts from the vrm to the cpu itself, thats just how electronics work. However you can combat this by playing around with vdroop offset (voltage droop) and related settings in the bios, and also make sure you have c-states disabled. and 1.316v for your 4790k is perfectly adequate, your temps are good, your cpu will be fine, you won't hurt the lifespan. But yuo cannot have the though process of ok my pc crashes with these settings so im goign to raise the voltage, that is the quickest way to fry your cpu. Adding more voltage and having your cpu frequency scale with said voltage, works up untill a certain point, nad looks as if yours is 1.316v, because as you said, if you add more nothing happens, thats just your processor limit (unless of course you carry over to high end water cooling or exotic cooling like dry ice or ln2) and you can't go by that limit because thats the cpu's silicon limit. Also the sod youre getting, the watchdog timeout is windows saying your overclock failed. I get wantign to tinker and trying to get higher than you are, but it gets to a point where you just cut, not on you, but your hardware limitaion(unless exotic cooling of course) Also I mean really though if you don't want to fine fine tune your settings and get deep into the bios, your 1.316v 4790k at 4.9Ghz is a freakin great overclock, again you cn try again now that youll hve better power going to the cpu, but honeslty where youre at now is fantastic, youre achieving an overclock alot of people can't by you just winning the silicon lottery. And if you have any more questions just post or ask, no question is a dumb question. I hope this helpsss

 

[Dark Lord of Tech]

I bought this power supply 4 - 5 years ago. I have these Power Supplies available here officially. Please advise which one should I go with:

Corsair TX750M 750W 80 Plus Gold Semi-Modular Power Supply

FSP Hydro G HG750 750W 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply

Get the FSP Hydro G.

 

[veboys79]

Id go for the fsp hydro g, corsair is a great company and make great power supplies, and also they are both 80 plus gold. So effeiency wise they're going to perform the same. So comes down to what looks better and also better fan, which the fsp has a fdb (fluid dynamic being) whereas the corsair has a rb (rifled bearing) fan, and the fdb last longer than the rb. Then i would consider the cables, which the fsp has nice flat single row ribbon cables, whereas corsairs are the generic plastic webbing sleeved ables, granted they are black though. However, id still go with the FSP. Also quick bit bout your overclocking, coming from a moderate overclocker,(haven't done ln2, but have done dry ice and cryogenic fluid, in which im more active on there overclock.net community, but visit her sometimes) someone has stated earlier in the thread that 4790k's don't get quite to 5gz, around 4.7ish, so for you to get to 4.9 is great, you won the silicone lottery, and also yes your power supply could have an effect on overclocking as you said (bu if you weren't oc'ing, the psi you have would be fine for the 1060 and 4790k) so getting a new psi might help your overclock by making sure your cpu gets a constant voltage with no spikes or drops. Also, i know im kind of jumping around subjects, just trying to get everything you asked. The reason why youre getting 1.314 and 1.315, is there is a voltage drop (regardless of psu) of around 100-200 millivolts from the vrm to the cpu itself, thats just how electronics work. However you can combat this by playing around with vdroop offset (voltage droop) and related settings in the bios, and also make sure you have c-states disabled. and 1.316v for your 4790k is perfectly adequate, your temps are good, your cpu will be fine, you won't hurt the lifespan. But yuo cannot have the though process of ok my pc crashes with these settings so im goign to raise the voltage, that is the quickest way to fry your cpu. Adding more voltage and having your cpu frequency scale with said voltage, works up untill a certain point, nad looks as if yours is 1.316v, because as you said, if you add more nothing happens, thats just your processor limit (unless of course you carry over to high end water cooling or exotic cooling like dry ice or ln2) and you can't go by that limit because thats the cpu's silicon limit. Also the sod youre getting, the watchdog timeout is windows saying your overclock failed. I get wantign to tinker and trying to get higher than you are, but it gets to a point where you just cut, not on you, but your hardware limitaion(unless exotic cooling of course) Also I mean really though if you don't want to fine fine tune your settings and get deep into the bios, your 1.316v 4790k at 4.9Ghz is a freakin great overclock, again you cn try again now that youll hve better power going to the cpu, but honeslty where youre at now is fantastic, youre achieving an overclock alot of people can't by you just winning the silicon lottery. And if you have any more questions just post or ask, no question is a dumb question. I hope this helpsss

Thank you John_Fishyy for the brief reply. I will go with FSP Hydro G but people says review says that Fan is noisy (never heard that FSP has noisy fan).

OK. I am stop here @4.9Ghz..........

But for daily usage and gaming, I am running at 4.6Ghz @1.225v and heavy games i.e. CPU Intensive games like Agent of Mayhem, AC Odyssey, NSF Payback etc etc...... I am getting hardly 37c - 40c (Spike upto 43c - 44c for a second) in AC Odyssey......

Tell me is my PSU good enough if I set 4.6Ghz for daily usage and heavy gaming or should I change it because its 4 - 5 years old?

Last I played at 4.8ghz and got max temp 46c CPU Package but that was just for checking purpose (Pic) Just informing

Regarding (Vdroop), I don't know much about it except that this is something related with (LLC settings) in BIOS. Sadly, I don't know how to do fine tuning in BIOS. I asked several person who are champ in OC but there is no reply.

I saw videos where people also set VCCIN etc etc with LLC settings.........

 

[DavidM012]

Knowing what vDroop is and mastering it are different things. In all practicality nowadays you don't practically have to do anything. It is handled by the bios.

Here is an explanation of vDroop

This article says it was more of an issue with older boards. It is designed to prevent over-volting which is bad or lethal for the cpu. It means that the voltage you set in the Bios isn't exceeded.

LLC tries to ensure the voltage doesn't dip so the two controls work in the opposite way. Now on intel chips you're talking about 0.005-0.01 volts being the difference between attaining the next higher clock speed. So it's very fine control. That all depends on the quality of the electronic components on the board. Not something that customers like us can control easily.

Setting LLC to high is equivalent to opening the floodgates and letting the volts in where vDroop shuts the gate. If you think about it like a hydroelectric dam.

High LLC with a high voltage such as what you started with would be silicon suicide.

The only way you can control vDroop is by monitoring the voltage. To get a read on this, first, reset to defaults and turn off LLC. Then, Is the voltage reported by hw monitor or whatever monitoring software you're using, the same as the voltage you set in the bios? If it's less then it's probably vDroop. If it's the same and it's running the voltage you want, fine and dandy.

At defaults the voltage is auto so it will be the stock voltage you see in hw monitor. You need to find out the stock voltage and enter it manually if you want to test for vDroop. Does the voltage stay at the level you set in the bios, is the question.

You probably won't get any vDroop at default levels. And to see it, if there is any you would have to disable power saving states says the article. As you increase the voltage you need to monitor the voltage at each stage of the overclock to see if the voltage is below target. You need to increase by .1ghz increments and 0.01 volt increments until you find a stable setting.

If it is below target you would open the llc gate to bump the voltage by whatever amount the lowest setting increases the voltage by. You need to measure how much llc increases the voltage by at each stage too, and never ever exceed the recommended voltage. That increase is basically hardwired by the components on the board. Modern boards might have better components? That's a guess.

A risky business if you are already at a high voltage.

In all probability it is best handled by the bios on auto anyway. Very risky if you are prone to set the voltage too high and then open llc to max, the risk to the cpu would be epic. That's the way to kill it. Especially since it would all be running in a marginal grey area where you might not have any fine control and the voltage could exceed tolerance and destroy the cpu.

By applying tweaks you are essentially saying, you know better than the bios what voltage the cpu should be. If you do and there is that much fine control through LLC and or 'vdroop offset' whatever they mean by that, it's not a problem. If you don't the risk factor climbs yet more.

Voltage and temps are the factors in the overclock, tweaks are very complicated and require a lot of skill to accomplish.

Controlling the temp. is easier.

Custom Cool

Are you willing to take the risk to spend on the cooler? As well as risk your cpu?

Is the silicon lottery a myth, because most people won't spend that much on cooling? Is the 8700k better quality silicon? Do the same principles apply to the 4790k? Can you control all the variables, select all the parts, assemble them without leaks so it's quiet and efficient?

Interesting that he used a larger copper heat spreader? Do you know where to get one? What thermal grease was applied?

Why didn't they answer? Because it's all so very complicated. Much to understand. Much to risk. And it might not even work at all, let alone the danger to the cpu.

Pushing the limits in the marginal grey areas of voltage control without knowing a thing is a terrible way to overclock.

 

[Karadjgne]

You also have to take into consideration exactly what you are looking at as far as vcore voltage reporting goes. There's a rather large difference between VID and core voltage and software can use either and often does. For instance for me, in cpu-z ROG edition, that says vcore but in cpu-z MSI edition it says VID, and those voltages will be different. VID is what the cpu is asking the motherboard VRM's to supply (upto specific max value), vcore is what the cpu is actually using, independent of whatever 'vcore' setting you apply. VID is accurate as it's a cpu reported value, vcore is software read values, so can be 20%± inaccurate.

Take software that says 'cpu voltage' or similar with a grain of salt, there's no telling if it's vcore or VID or something else entirely (amd fx was bad for that)

Maximim safe value for 4th gen Intel is 1.4v, however, you realistically want to be as far under that value as possible because of Vdroop, VRM 'theft', inaccuracies in vcore reading. 1.316v is the highest I'd safely agree to, 1.45v is asking for burned out transistors in your cores. Too much of that and bye bye core, bye bye cpu.

That psu is 80+. That means it's supposedly been voluntarily submitted for testing and gets @80/80/80% at 20/50/100% loads. Not 85% or that'd be Bronze, not White. It has 4 separate rails, not 4 combined rails like better units, cpu/pcie/mobo etc and is a really old group regulated design carrying such high amperage on the 3.3/5v+ rails. I'd not try any OC with that psu, in simple terms it's a fireworks show waiting to happen.

TXM Gold is the better platform vs the FSP G, but both are decent for high OC stability, which you will not get with your current psu, far too erratic ripple that's probably far out of ATX specs.

 

[veboys79]

Knowing what vDroop is and mastering it are different things. In all practicality nowadays you don't practically have to do anything. It is handled by the bios.

Here is an explanation of vDroop

This article says it was more of an issue with older boards. It is designed to prevent over-volting which is bad or lethal for the cpu. It means that the voltage you set in the Bios isn't exceeded.

LLC tries to ensure the voltage doesn't dip so the two controls work in the opposite way. Now on intel chips you're talking about 0.005-0.01 volts being the difference between attaining the next higher clock speed. So it's very fine control. That all depends on the quality of the electronic components on the board. Not something that customers like us can control easily.

Setting LLC to high is equivalent to opening the floodgates and letting the volts in where vDroop shuts the gate. If you think about it like a hydroelectric dam.

High LLC with a high voltage such as what you started with would be silicon suicide.

The only way you can control vDroop is by monitoring the voltage. To get a read on this, first, reset to defaults and turn off LLC. Then, Is the voltage reported by hw monitor or whatever monitoring software you're using, the same as the voltage you set in the bios? If it's less then it's probably vDroop. If it's the same and it's running the voltage you want, fine and dandy.

At defaults the voltage is auto so it will be the stock voltage you see in hw monitor. You need to find out the stock voltage and enter it manually if you want to test for vDroop. Does the voltage stay at the level you set in the bios, is the question.

You probably won't get any vDroop at default levels. And to see it, if there is any you would have to disable power saving states says the article. As you increase the voltage you need to monitor the voltage at each stage of the overclock to see if the voltage is below target. You need to increase by .1ghz increments and 0.01 volt increments until you find a stable setting.

If it is below target you would open the llc gate to bump the voltage by whatever amount the lowest setting increases the voltage by. You need to measure how much llc increases the voltage by at each stage too, and never ever exceed the recommended voltage. That increase is basically hardwired by the components on the board. Modern boards might have better components? That's a guess.

A risky business if you are already at a high voltage.

In all probability it is best handled by the bios on auto anyway. Very risky if you are prone to set the voltage too high and then open llc to max, the risk to the cpu would be epic. That's the way to kill it. Especially since it would all be running in a marginal grey area where you might not have any fine control and the voltage could exceed tolerance and destroy the cpu.

By applying tweaks you are essentially saying, you know better than the bios what voltage the cpu should be. If you do and there is that much fine control through LLC and or 'vdroop offset' whatever they mean by that, it's not a problem. If you don't the risk factor climbs yet more.

Voltage and temps are the factors in the overclock, tweaks are very complicated and require a lot of skill to accomplish.

Controlling the temp. is easier.

Custom Cool

Are you willing to take the risk to spend on the cooler? As well as risk your cpu?

Is the silicon lottery a myth, because most people won't spend that much on cooling? Is the 8700k better quality silicon? Do the same principles apply to the 4790k? Can you control all the variables, select all the parts, assemble them without leaks so it's quiet and efficient?

Interesting that he used a larger copper heat spreader? Do you know where to get one? What thermal grease was applied?

Why didn't they answer? Because it's all so very complicated. Much to understand. Much to risk. And it might not even work at all, let alone the danger to the cpu.

Pushing the limits in the marginal grey areas of voltage control without knowing a thing is a terrible way to overclock.

Thank you bro for a brief reply. After reading your reply. I will not go more than 1.316v @4.9Ghz and leaving 5Ghz for now.

You are right that this is risky business. I hardly gathered such parts from my saving of years and build this System by myself. I don't want to take risk but I will try to learn it.

However, in BIOS when I set Vcore to 1.316v @4.9Ghz and restart system and check again in BIOS then its showing me 1.339v but in Windows in HWiNfo its showing me 1.314v / 1.315v means 0.001 less than what I set in BIOS. ------ LLC set to Auto-----

Means LLC start working but in HWiNfo result is less. Anyway, leave it as you right that these things need more more time to mastery and yep if anything loss then system OFF, which I don't want.

Once again thank you very much for your brief reply, which I appreciated much much much......... Thank you once again bro.........

 

[veboys79]

You also have to take into consideration exactly what you are looking at as far as vcore voltage reporting goes. There's a rather large difference between VID and core voltage and software can use either and often does. For instance for me, in cpu-z ROG edition, that says vcore but in cpu-z MSI edition it says VID, and those voltages will be different. VID is what the cpu is asking the motherboard VRM's to supply (upto specific max value), vcore is what the cpu is actually using, independent of whatever 'vcore' setting you apply. VID is accurate as it's a cpu reported value, vcore is software read values, so can be 20%± inaccurate.

Take software that says 'cpu voltage' or similar with a grain of salt, there's no telling if it's vcore or VID or something else entirely (amd fx was bad for that)

Maximim safe value for 4th gen Intel is 1.4v, however, you realistically want to be as far under that value as possible because of Vdroop, VRM 'theft', inaccuracies in vcore reading. 1.316v is the highest I'd safely agree to, 1.45v is asking for burned out transistors in your cores. Too much of that and bye bye core, bye bye cpu.

That psu is 80+. That means it's supposedly been voluntarily submitted for testing and gets @80/80/80% at 20/50/100% loads. Not 85% or that'd be Bronze, not White. It has 4 separate rails, not 4 combined rails like better units, cpu/pcie/mobo etc and is a really old group regulated design carrying such high amperage on the 3.3/5v+ rails. I'd not try any OC with that psu, in simple terms it's a fireworks show waiting to happen.

TXM Gold is the better platform vs the FSP G, but both are decent for high OC stability, which you will not get with your current psu, far too erratic ripple that's probably far out of ATX specs.

Thanks for answering. If there is a matter of 80% then it means that there is fighting start between components to draw power because what I understand 575W combine power x 80% = 460Watts. Damnnnnnnn you are right and I understand this very well that when a good component start putting extra efficiency to get proper power to itself then this thing weaker its strength. We can understand this thing as if a human can carry weight daily, where he/she has to put extra strength / power than usual than soon he/she become weak.

So thank you very much. I will first go with Corsair TX750M 750W 80 Plus Gold Semi-Modular Power Supply

If not available then I will go with FSP.

Thank you once again for your time, help and guidance. really appreciated much much much...... Thank you again bro for your help and guidance.

 

[DavidM012]

Without going into all that depth maybe you should consider running at 4.8 after all.

Their suggestion of running at a vCore of 1.35 or 1.4 has been panned however. The only thing you could do more is search around for more reliable information.

I think if it was going to work all you'd need to do is enter the vCore of 1.3 and that would be it. Possibly stronger cooling would also help it reach the higher clock since you're at the recommended voltage limit, but it would cost insensible money for the Custom Loop.

I don't think anyone would say with much certainty that 1.32 volts would get it steady at 4.9, and they don't like your psu. It's right on the margin which suggests that the sample you have is happier at 4.8,

The only review of Devil's Canyon I can find says they didn't push the envelope beyond 4.8 and other chatter said 5ghz, nah.

 

[veboys79]

Without going into all that depth maybe you should consider running at 4.8 after all.

Their suggestion of running at a vCore of 1.35 or 1.4 has been panned however. The only thing you could do more is search around for more reliable information.

I think if it was going to work all you'd need to do is enter the vCore of 1.3 and that would be it. Possibly stronger cooling would also help it reach the higher clock since you're at the recommended voltage limit, but it would cost insensible money for the Custom Loop.

I don't think anyone would say with much certainty that 1.32 volts would get it steady at 4.9, and they don't like your psu. It's right on the margin which suggests that the sample you have is happier at 4.8,

The only review of Devil's Canyon I can find says they didn't push the envelope beyond 4.8 and other chatter said 5ghz, nah.

Thank you bro for your reply.

1) Vcore
I also don't want to run 24/7 (4 - 5 hours per day Usage and Gaming) processor @4.9Ghz with 1.316v. Though later I checked 4.9Ghz on Auto Voltage (HWiNfo 1.377v during Cinebench) Max temp 67c.
Intel Burn Test also passed.

What you say 4.8Ghz @1.275v daily usage and gaming (even heavy CPU Intensive games) very stable with temp under 60c?

Due to power supply, Currently back to 4.6Ghz with 1.225v under 40c- max temp (little hot weather).

Tell me which one is suitable if I buy good power supply of 750Watts

2) Power Supply
You says "they don't like my PSU" means, processor is not happy with that heheheheheeeeee

Anyway, now I have following to options available and both at same price i.e. US$ 91.42

Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB 750W Gold Fully Modular
FSP Hydro G HG750 750W 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply

I saw in review that "FSP Hydro G HG750 750W 80" has very Noisy Fan and I don't like too much noise. I bear hardly the Noise of Radiator Fans of H100i V2 .... heheheheheeee

I don't know if FSP made changes to keep it run silently or not. Sorry to bother you again.

Don't know but I am not feeling good when I think to go with Corsair TX750M. Like something saying don't go with that. May be this is happening as I am using FSP since last 4 - 5 years or whatever.

 

[DavidM012]

I haven't spent much time poring over power supplies but since you want to stay on the safe side, sure buy a replacement. I didn't consider it an issue when buying my fx and my system is probably not so demanding. It might be necessary after 4-5 years but I don't think it's hindering a higher overclock. It is a possible case that no matter what you do the chip simply won't do it.

'What you say 4.8Ghz @1.275v daily usage and gaming (even heavy CPU Intensive games) very stable with temp under 60c?'

Perfect. I think it's fine at 2x my single core and 3 times my multi core and wouldn't mess around with it too much.

 

[veboys79]

I haven't spent much time poring over power supplies but since you want to stay on the safe side, sure buy a replacement. I didn't consider it an issue when buying my fx and my system is probably not so demanding. It might be necessary after 4-5 years but I don't think it's hindering a higher overclock. It is a possible case that no matter what you do the chip simply won't do it.

'What you say 4.8Ghz @1.275v daily usage and gaming (even heavy CPU Intensive games) very stable with temp under 60c?'

Perfect. I think it's fine at 2x my single core and 3 times my multi core and wouldn't mess around with it too much.

OK So finally tell me do I need to change Power Supply or not with 4.8Ghz 1.275v and GTX 1060 Aorus Xtreme 6GB (Rev 2.0) at 1999Mhz / 8800Mhz Overclock?

Here is my system pic, so you can give me better idea:

 

[DavidM012]

Since it's 4 or 5 years old it wouldn't hurt. Info says it might last between 5-10 years. You'd normally upgrade your pc long before the psu went so the rules of the game have changed a little. PSU's to date have not been an issue for me but I haven't been running mid or high range systems.

One day you''ll find it doesn't switch on so depends largely if you plan to upgrade in the next few years, sounds like it's got some go in it yet.

 

[veboys79]

Since it's 4 or 5 years old it wouldn't hurt. Info says it might last between 5-10 years. You'd normally upgrade your pc long before the psu went so the rules of the game have changed a little. PSU's to date have not been an issue for me but I haven't been running mid or high range systems.

One day you''ll find it doesn't switch on so depends largely if you plan to upgrade in the next few years, sounds like it's got some go in it yet.

So you mean there is no need to buy new PSU? right........ In that case, I will not buy new one.

Thanks for your over all support and guidance bro, much appreciated.