Cat 6 Keystone install issues

Bill_100

Commendable
Sep 7, 2016
8
0
1,510
I inherited a house, per se, that had unconnected cat 6 cable run throughout. Just bare wires. I have crimped connectors on them in my living room to run them to my TV from a TP link switch I bought. Everything has been working fine. Last weekend I tried to convert them to a wall plate with Keystone jacks and nada. I used two different brands of keystones the HD brand and another off Amazon and nothing! I checked my diagrams several times, I am running B in the house when I made connectors, and I actually wired them for A and B and nothing. I have a proper punch down tool and I am not new to electronics. I have searched and searched and no one has had my problem. I am out of ideas I have done 4-5 keystones and I am losing wire. My punch downs look correct, the wires are all the way down and trimmed. I just can't figure out what could be going wrong.

I have cat 6 cable. I have used cat 5 and cat 6 connectors. I am using cat 6 keystones and the cable run isn't longer than 20 feet. Please help with any suggestions.


 
Solution
That is actually a very common mistake even pros put them on upside down every so often..... you tend to notice it just as you firmly crimp the wires and go ...crap why did I do that.
Make sure your cable is not CCA cable. The keystone have massive issue connecting to cable that is not solid copper.

Maybe a cheap test tool will help before you cut off too much wire. The keystones are pretty easy compared to crimp connectors since you can fix individual wires so normally you get it to work after fewer tries.
 
THanks for the responses. I have checked the cable and it is not CCA, it is solid copper; however, there is no solid foam core in it if that matters. My crimper came with a cheap tester that I have seemed to have misplaced. I didn't really dig for it since what I have been reading says they aren't too reliable.

I do not have a patch panel I am using a switch TP-link 8 port gigabit desktop switch. My understanding was that would replace the need for a patch panel. Am I mistaken?

Again thanks for the help
 
So the current infrastructure is like this:

Modem ------> Router ------>[ Lan port 1] TP-Link 8 port GB switch [LAN ports 2-8] -------in wall cabling ---------> Wall jacks

where the ends of the wall cabling at the switch have RJ45 plugs crimped on and the wall jacks have punchdown connections. Correct?
 
And as a little more info I have 4 cat6 cables running from the living to the garage where the router/modem/switch is located. I have taken the cables out of the switch and run them directly into the modem and router with no signal showing up. I am going to go dig for that tester.
 
Yes that is correct. All cables were running signals to my devices before I started this project as well. I have made attempts on two different cables to apply keystone jacks without success. The remaining cables that still have crimped connectors on work like a charm. So the signal is there I just don't know where I am losing it.
 
On inspection I currently have solid cat 6 with 5e stranded crimp connectors that is working from the switch. THe connectors say they are cat5 cat5e for solid or stranded wire. I also bought some HD cat 6 connectors that have the solid crimp style teeth to them.

Couldn't find my wire cable tester but I did find some jigsaw blades I misplaced a while back. 😉
 
Thanks for the help but my stupidity is something that you can't fix... I installed the T586B from a wiring diagram that did not include which way was up, it just had the color pattern. Well I did all my connectors upside down so by themselves they were fine but when a proper keystone was added it there was trouble. I redid the connectors and everything is back up to speed.
 
Yes if the crimp connectors you received are for braided/stranded wire then there would be problems when used on solid wire.

GB connectivity uses four pairs and is not so forgiving with respect to poor connections.

However (full disclosure), I am somewhat at a loss to explain why the crimped connectors would work when the keystones are not involved. (I.e. crimps on both ends of the existing cables.)

The only other thing I can think of as a major difference is the connectivity: crimp verus punchdown. Can you get a magnifying glass (I would need one) and take a real close look at how your punchdown tool is working.

When you did the plug crimping was the locking tab up or down? If you were consistent with your crimps no problem. Could you have flipped pins between crimping and punchdown? (Do not mean to insult your intelligence but looking for some logic that parallels the constants involved.)

And you are ahead of me (which is okay) with respect to testing directly to the router sans switch. When you do get connectivity does your router or the switch have LEDs that change color with respect to speed? Wondering about what speed is acually being used while connected.


 

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