[SOLVED] Changing Motherboard (What kind of problems could I face?)

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Jan 9, 2021
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Hi, so here's the story...
I have a small (microATX I think they call it) pc case and motherboard.

I just bought a new graphics card and it's really big so I decided to change my pc case and the motherboard without changing anything(even the CPU).

I only know what kinds of things to consider in order to make it compatible with my cpu like: It should be lga1150 for intel 4th gen, ddr3 ram slots and atx.

What kind of other compatibility problems will I face if I do this.
Thank you for reading!
 
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Solution
You will avoid some possible issues if you simply move the old MATX motherboard and processor to the new case.

Changing out a motherboard will require you to remove the cpu from the socket and reinstall it on the new motherboard.
Socket pins are delicate and are easily bent in the process if you are not careful.

Windows may not boot to a new motherboard.
Usually, it does and all you need to do is install the chipset and other drivers that came on a cd with the new motherboard.

Windows may give you grief about reactivation thinking you are a pirate.
You need to set up windows first to register it and follow a reactivation process.

Mechanically, my biggest problem is getting the main 24 pin power lead out of the socket.
It is a...
The holders of the ram slots and two cables on the lower right side are blocking my Asus rtx 2060
Here's the picture of the mobo. Those blue and black inputs + the holders of the ram slots.

IMG_20210110_172032.jpg

Here's the issue
 
The holders at the ends of the ram slots fold up and will be a standard distance from the pcie slot.

I can see how a card that is extra long might expand past the motherboard and impact the front of the case.

Can you hold your new card in place and take a photo?

If the case size is the issue, by all means buy a larger case.

On motherboards, the one you listed is compatible with a i7-4790.
Since the 4790 is not overclockable, there is no value in a more expensive Z chipset.
Note that the motherboard is a full ATX size(it has 7 expansion slots vs. 4)
You will need a larger ATX capable case to go with it.
That is a good thing since the 2060 will generate some heat and require decent airflow.
 
I know it looks ridiculous but this is the situation 😆

IMG-20210111-162500.jpg


It's crushing the heads of one little cable and one big cable.
IMG-20210111-161445.jpg


So if I buy a 600-550W gold(or bronze) psu, will this biostar mobo be able to work with it??

And I don't understand if this card has this issues with this micro-Atx, it's gonna have the same issue with the other micros right? Because on internet I can find micro-atx for half the price, should I buy and risk it or not, or how will I know if it's going to block it again?
 
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As they say, a picture is worth 1000 words.

Your card is unusually fat, 3 slots wide, it looks like.
Even had it fit, the card requires more power than your psu can provide.

I see no problem with the biostar motherboard you listed.

You are essentially building a new pc with a new motherboard, case and psu. If you don't have 16gb, you are looking at more ram also.

Does it make sense to do that just to preserve the use of a 4th generation processor?

Consider selling your pc as is.

In the US, you can buy a stronger 10th gen i3-10100 processor, a lga1200 motherboard, and 16gb of ddr4 ram for <$250.
 
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As they say, a picture is worth 1000 words.

Your card is unusually fat, 3 slots wide, it looks like.
Even had it fit, the card requires more power than your psu can provide.

I see no problem with the biostar motherboard you listed.

You are essentially building a new pc with a new motherboard, case and psu. If you don't have 16gb, you are looking at more ram also.

Does it make sense to do that just to preserve the use of a 4th generation processor?

Consider selling your pc as is.

In the US, you can buy a stronger 10th gen i3-10100 processor, a lga1200 motherboard, and 16gb of ddr4 ram for <$250.


But why would I do that I know it's more up-to-date but when I compare it on UserBenchmark results are like this: UserBenchmark: Intel Core i3-1005G1 vs i7-4790 , and it has two cores right isnt' it bad because I'm a gamer, plus it goes out of my budget to buy 16 gb ddr4 ram, a cpu, a psu and a new motherboard and a case which are all up-to-date(that means slightly or definitely more expensive). I'm reallly tight on the budget so..
Also I heard i7 4790 is a decent cpu still
 
oops sorry now I reread and this is the result.. my bad 😆UserBenchmark: Intel Core i3-10100 vs i7-4790
Okay then i3 is better here but slightly better not so much better...right?
Glad you caught that.
I7-4790 has a passmark rating of 7193. That is when all 8 threads are fully utilized.
That is not normal for gamers where most games can usefully utilize 4-6 threads.
The single thread rating is 2224. Arguably the more important spec for games which depend on the performance of the single master controlling thread.
https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i7-4790+@+3.60GHz&id=2226

I3-10100 also has 8 threads(i3 meaning has changed).
It has a passmark rating of 8922/2647.
https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i3-10100+@+3.60GHz&id=3717
It is just a starting point and one could go higher.
Currently, the top single thread performance chip is the ryzen r9 5950x at 3493:
https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+Ryzen+9+5950X&id=3862
Unverified leaks show intel rocket lake topping even that.

But on a budget i3-10100 is is a step up for a gamer.
Here is a review of the i3-10100 for a gamer:
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i3-10100/15.html

I would agree that the performance difference is hot huge.
But if you can sell your current rig for enough to apply to a more modern generation and come out even or better, it is worth considering.
 
Here a lga1200 motherboard 120-150 euros + 100 euros cpu(i3-10100 ) + 70-80 euros psu + case 50 euros + ram ddr4 16gb 50 euros (if I want faster, which I will probably, its gonna cost more than that). That's probably more than 400 which I cant afford but I can afford and find these old parts and make it work with maybe a less than 180 euros.

Oh sorry forgot to mention it, I cant sell this pc or any part of it because the university provided it to me to do research in 2014, they won't take it back but in any case I should preserve the parts etc

as you can see I'm a bit stuck in this situation because I cant sell anything and must use what I have somehow and upgrade it with a little budget, also Im a game-dev who needs good 3d modeling, video, photo editing.
 
Your prices in euros are approximately the same as in the us in dollars.

If you can shop the used market there is no doubt that you can get more for your money than buying new.

MATX is usually cheaper. Otherwise, there should be no issue with a standard matx motherboard.
The problem with your current motherboard is that it is proprietary and was designed to hold only what was initially delivered.
Modern motherboards are well aware of the issues with long graphics cards and do not place high components in that location.
Post the make/model of whatever you can find and we can check it out.

On the psu, do not shop by gold rating.
That is only an indicator of power efficiency.
Be wary of wattage claims also. Cheap units do not deliver advertised power, and may not do so in a case at 50c. units in 500/600/700 w. tend to be older units. 550/650/750w are usually better modern units.
Not a rule, but an indicator.
Probably the best indicator of psu quality will be the warranty. 7 or 10 year warranties seem to be for good units.
 
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as you can see I'm a bit stuck in this situation because I cant sell anything and must use what I have somehow and upgrade it with a little budget, also Im a game-dev who needs good 3d modeling, video, photo editing.
You're trying to squeeze 2021 performance out of a 7 year old, non-upgradable platform, with no budget.

We all understand the budget thing. But some things just cannot be done.

You need a new PSU to run the new GPU
You need a new motherboard to fit the GPU
You need a new case to house the motherboard

You are quickly on the path to a whole new system.
 
You're trying to squeeze 2021 performance out of a 7 year old, non-upgradable platform, with no budget.

We all understand the budget thing. But some things just cannot be done.

You need a new PSU to run the new GPU
You need a new motherboard to fit the GPU
You need a new case to house the motherboard

You are quickly on the path to a whole new system.


Yeah I know but maybe I can use this setup(just new psu,mobo,case) for a while and then buy the rest cpu and ram slowly, is that ok?
 
Post the make/model of whatever you can find and we can check it out.

Thank you very much I am really grateful for all your helps

On the psu, do not shop by gold rating.
That is only an indicator of power efficiency.
Be wary of wattage claims also. Cheap units do not deliver advertised power, and may not do so in a case at 50c. units in 500/600/700 w. tend to be older units. 550/650/750w are usually better modern units.
Not a rule, but an indicator.
Probably the best indicator of psu quality will be the warranty. 7 or 10 year warranties seem to be for good units.

But won't the power efficiency make a difference with the electric bills for people who use their pc for long times like myself? I mean I'd pay the 20-30 euros difference for gold if that's the case, but if it doesnt make that much difference I understand
 
CPU, RAM, motherboard all work together.
You'd be buying the new motherboard twice.

Once now, to work with the current CPU and RAM.
Then again, with a new CPU and RAM.

yeah I meant reaallly slowly :tearsofjoy: The thing is if I can make something out by preserving the cpu and ram and if it works why not? plus the old stuff is harder to find but cheaper to buy that's why it seemed conveniant to me at start