[SOLVED] Checking my PC build looks good

Oct 28, 2018
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Hi, I'm hoping someone can comment on how my HTPC build is looking:

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/HercseyBaby/saved/#view=wyMKBm

Ryzen 5 2400G - I think the G means it has a Wraith fan on there
MSI B450M Mortar Micro ATX mobo
2 x 4GB Corsair Vengeance 3000
Seagate Barracuda 500GB 2.5" SSD
Silverstone ML03 case
be quiet! Straight Power 11 550W Gold

Do I need anything else? Is this enough cooling?

It the SSD choice OK? Is the PSU choice OK?

Does this leave the option to add a graphics card and more memory if I wish?

Thanks. I hope someone can spare me a few minutes to give me an opinion.
 
Solution
Yes, the 2400G comes with a nice cooler. ;)

No problems with the SSD, SATA drives don't vary that much in performance and by the time it'll be close to wearing out you'll be looking for another system anyway.

Adding a GPU will give you a few headaches: You'll be limited to half height cards and DON'T use a passively cooled card, otherwise it'll be fine. Such cards tend to be fairly short, so length shouldn't be an issue although for a strict HTPC/light gaming system the 2400G has enough graphics horsepower to match entry level cards like the GTX1030 anyway.

If you think you'll need 16Gb of RAM, I'll advise you to install it during the build, adding an extra pair of 4Gb modules later is likely to cause issues.
Even 4 seemingly matched...
Yes, the 2400G comes with a nice cooler. ;)

No problems with the SSD, SATA drives don't vary that much in performance and by the time it'll be close to wearing out you'll be looking for another system anyway.

Adding a GPU will give you a few headaches: You'll be limited to half height cards and DON'T use a passively cooled card, otherwise it'll be fine. Such cards tend to be fairly short, so length shouldn't be an issue although for a strict HTPC/light gaming system the 2400G has enough graphics horsepower to match entry level cards like the GTX1030 anyway.

If you think you'll need 16Gb of RAM, I'll advise you to install it during the build, adding an extra pair of 4Gb modules later is likely to cause issues.
Even 4 seemingly matched modules may not be fully compatible, Ryzen is still a little picky about memory selection, and is more so when you populate all 4 slots and Ryzen Motherboards disable DOCP ( XMP ) when all 4 slots are filled, which slows the entire system, and has a particularly large effect on the built in graphics core.
 
Solution

Twistfaria

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Feb 3, 2016
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I think you might want 16gb of RAM as well and yes RAM comes in kits and separately bought RAM tends to be very iffy. Just make sure you get RAM that is on the motherboard manufacturer QVL. It lists the RAM they have tested to work with that motherboard/CPU. If you don't buy the kit together you might have to completely replace the RAM in the future. By the way most of the Ryzen CPUs come with stock coolers but that "G" means on board graphics meaning you don't have to have a GPU. You CAN put a GPU in later if you want too and the "APU" will effectively turn into a CPU only.
 
Oct 28, 2018
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I've just checked the MSI website and it says that Corsair memory is compatible with the motherboard.

So, if I add a graphics card at some point then that knocks out the graphics in the CPU I can't do the Crossfire thing with CPU graphics and a graphics card? It's v unlikely that I would add two graphics cards to this PC so I'm just asking out of curiosity about how Crossfire works.

Is the cooler on the 2400 G fairly quiet?
 

Twistfaria

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I have the Ryzen 7 2700x it comes with the Wraith Prism Cooler and it's pretty quiet at idle but does ramp up a bit under load. Nothing too terrible though. I'm not sure on the Crossfire with the APU, it might be possible but I don't really foresee it working too well. The main reason to have dual cards is for much higher resolution and/or multi displays. In many circumstances it is better to just have one good card. Adding more than one will also effect power usage and temperatures.
So far the Wraith cooler is keeping my CPU temps very decent. I thought I might need a closed loop water cooler but so far it doesn't appear to be the case for me.

I word of warning though, when you install your cooler be careful about the tension. Two of the 3 coolers I installed in 2 systems were impossible to latch. I exchanged one and the next one I got had the same issue. I had to end up loosening the screws on one of the brackets on the motherboard that holds the cooler before "latching" it and re-tightening the screws. Which was very hard to do without removing the cooler and messing up the thermal paste. The 3rd cooler was actually the first one I installed and it went in perfectly so clearly there are issues with quality control! Now you know so you won't freak out like I did! Just don't force it!! Also maybe buy some extra thermal paste to have on hand just in case (which I did not).

If this is your first build make sure you do a lot of research before hand. It helps a lot!! If you want you can check out my build notes by following the link in my signature.
 
Oct 28, 2018
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I've only built one PC before - back in 2005. It lasted me 13 years :) :)

But this means that basically I'm starting afresh - I can't remember much about it all from 13 years ago and the technology has moved on a bit.
 

Twistfaria

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Yeah I would definitely do some refresher researching. In my opinion one of the worst ways to come at something is having done it before but not remembering everything and ending up doing things you shouldn't. It's better to come at it like you have never done it before because that way all the stuff you do remember will be confirmed and the new stuff and stuff you don't remember will be learned too. There is nothing wrong with redundancy, it's the best way to learn.

When I was doing my first 2 builds last month I found a "mistakes first time builders can make" video like an hour before I started that gave me information that I had not found when looking up guides. One of the things I found really helpful was going over my whole motherboard user manual cover to cover before I started. It had LOTS of information that was very helpful. General things but also things that were particular to that motherboard as well. It had little "important notes" in the margins that had reminders of how to install certain components, one of mine said that certain types of cpu coolers needed to be installed a specific way or the M.2 heatsink could interfere with it. Important information!!

I had put off building my own system for a while out of, well essentially, fear! But I'm so glad I finally did it as it was incredibly rewarding and it's very nice that I now know my system from top to bottom.
 
Some tips:

It's not particularly hard but there is some potential issues to bear in mind:

Static is an overrated risk, touching a radiator pipe is a good way to keep it at bay.

You'll need a few tools to make the build go smoothly: A good quality, magnetic Phillips screwdriver, either a pair of pliers or a suitable socket wrench to tighten the motherboard standoffs, possibly a pair of tweezers and a magnifying glass to help with the front panel cables ( some cases use tiny single cables ).

Work on a flat, stable and well lit surface that is free of clutter and has enough room around it to store the parts and empty boxes.

ALL the power cables will only go in one way, if one seems too hard to insert, check you have it correctly aligned.

That big 24 pin motherboard connector is always tight, lubricate the plug with a little petroleum jelly before trying to push it home with one hand while supporting the underside of the motherboard with the fingertips of your other hand.

It's easier to install to motherboard with the CPU cooler attached, it gives far better control to have something chunky to hold on to. Also lower it in at an angle so you can slide it into the rear IO shield before lowering it fully down onto the standoffs. In most cases that IO shield has a number of springy fingers on it that will push the motherboard a little ' forwards ' and out of alignment with the standoffs, attach a mounting screw to the 'driver, gently push the motherboard into alignment and start, but don't tighten that screw, repeat until all the mounting screws are started THEN tighten them firmly down.

Check the case and case manual, there's a 4 or 8 pin connector block on the motherboard, usually top left, and it's not always possible to route that cable from the power supply, behind the motherboard tray and out the top of it with the motherboard installed as the motherboard can block the exit hole, if you're in any doubt about this, install the power supply first, then route the 4/8 pin EPS cable then install the motherboard.

Sellotape and/or elastic bands can be great friends, use then to keep stray cables out of the way, especially when installing the motherboard.


General tips:

Allow plenty of time, don't rush, turn off your mobile and don't get distracted, if you have to move away from the build, finish the task you're doing then move away, never leave a task halfway through, it's an open invitation to Murphys Law to step in.

DONT'T PANIC! If it doesn't start up first time you've probably made one of the embarrassing errors we have all made in the past so start with the basics: Is the power lead plugged in? Is the socket turned on? Is the PSU switched on? If yes, power down, disconnect the power cord wait a minuet to allow the motherboard to discharge then check the cables are fully home and in their correct locations.


Finally: READ THE MANUALS! It is essential for your first build to read and understand these documents.
 

Twistfaria

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Also BREADBOARD your Motherboard, RAM, CPU/cooler and GPU before you put them in the case!! DOA components DO happen from time to time and nothing sucks more than getting everything in the case and then having to remove stuff to RMA a component.
 
Oct 28, 2018
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I remember having this thing that went round my wrist and clipped onto a radiator to get rid of static last time I built a PC - mainly just while I put the CPU in place. I seem to recall this was the most nerve wracking part in case something got damaged. It all went OK after that.

I don't have a breadboard
 
^ I think you and Twistfaria are thinking of different things.
What Twistfaria means is that you build the system out of the case like this: https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=8DzdqlbS&id=9BA9B102602331C6F88830A58349A5DBCE88A51A&thid=OIP.8DzdqlbSz76WssDUXVOX9wHaFi&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fmaksfisli.files.wordpress.com%2f2015%2f01%2fphoto-3.jpg&exph=1936&expw=2592&q=breadboard+PC+build&simid=608041202896929692&selectedIndex=18&ajaxhist=0
Some prefer to build this way because it's easier to take apart if a component is faulty and has to be returned under warranty.
And the wrist strap can be used if you want, but just touching something grounded ( earthed ) every so often is enough to keep static away.