Cleaning/Preparing water blocks

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Am building my first water cooling project, and i read a lot of guides, also on this forum, a good stick by rubix_1011.

Just an idea :) Hope for the site Admins to create a "Water Cooling" Category, so we can post our questions under it, am posting under "Overclocking" right now since my last question on water cooling was moved to "Overclocking" .

My question: for the new GPU and CPU blocks do i need to disassemble, clean and then re assemble the blocks since i do not know how to do it, or just push water/rinse through them?
 
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I always flush a new radiator but never a new CPU or GPU water block!

I don't know of anyone that actually does that!

After a CPU or GPU has some service life of time and you're cleaning and flushing your system then you should disassemble and inspect and clean if cleaning is...
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It's in the works.



I can't vouch for what others do, but for myself, on the limited number of custom loops I've worked with, we've cleaned everything with isopropyl alcohol prior to assembly. The reasoning is that it will evaporate fairly quickly, so you don't have any left to mix with your coolant, and secondly, it should remove most contaminating oils or bacteria that may be present which could contaminate the coolant and allow unwanted growth or accelerated corrosion at some point. There might be specialized solutions targeted specifically at this, but isopropyl alcohol is cheap and does a good job with oils and bacteria.

 
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darkbreeze thanks a lot, but let me restate my question, may be i asked it in an improper manner.

I got new GPU and CPU blocks EK, out of the box, and am preparing them for fresh new installation. I read that i should clean them before use, and i have seen some videos over you tube, dissembling the blocks (removing the top, bringing the block into two pieces) and cleaning/flushing it from inside, so my question is, do i need to do the same thing for the new blocks, or just bring it out of the box, push some water through the input, and that is enough.
 
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it's a good idea to do a full cleaning or at least a rinse, whichever you feel most comfortable with, prior to assembly.
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Thanks for the advise. But as a beginner i think disassembling the block is gona be a challenge for me.

it couldn't hurt to rinse the machined parts or clean them with isopropyl alcohol and compressed air
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That is a good idea.

I am going to use Mayhems Pastel, and i am a noob in water cooling but the phrase:

I wouldn't use water at all. The idea that liquid cooling is "water cooled" is a misrepresentation of the fact. Water isn't generally used at all
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Just made me feel that i am a noobie noob 😀 But i see people run loops using only distilled water :ouch:



 
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Distilled water, usually works,[strike] for a while.[/strike] You could just boil the water for about ten minutes and then pour it through something like a Britta pitcher water filter too. That would kill any bacteria and remove 99.9 percent of the metals. The problem is, there are bacteria on you hands, and in the parts. Plus, there's no guarantee that there's not microbes in the parts and plain distilled water, unless used with some kind of additive, will eventually allow anything that got past the process to begin multiplying. There are additives to control that.

Coolants like inhibited glycol also offer corrosion protection and somewhat natively disallow bacterial growth. There are differing opinions, but since I've been working with automotive cooling systems professionally for about 30 years, which are extremely similar on a different scale, I can tell you that even using distilled water when not used with another additive to resist corrosion, can become an issue before too long as well. Both ways will work. Distilled water with additives, straight coolants intended specifically for liquid cooling or even a combination of the two. Another factor is the fact that many glycol products have a much higher boiling point than straight water. Straight water boils at 220°F when at atmospheric pressure, depending on altitude. At higher altitudes it boils at a lower temperature. At 4500 ft, which is my altitude locally, water boils at 203°F. Most coolants don't boil until 10-20°F more, or even higher in some cases.

Although it's unlikely your system would ever reach the boiling point, it would be a good idea to have some additional insurance. Much of this is just my own opinion though. Here is a good read, in addition to RGD's sticky you read:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7363/the-neophytes-custom-liquid-cooling-guide-how-to-why-to-what-to-expect
 
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:ouch: that was a new level of knowledge to me.

I do not know which answer to pick 😀 as the best answer 😀.

Thanks for the effort, really, and am gona go through and read that article.

Note: As per EK website, it is not recommended to use Iso. Alcohol if the Blocks are assembled, since it is not recommended for the Alcohol to run on the Acrylic (Plexi) part (Top) of the Block.

Again thanks for the effort and information.
 
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Well, my bad on that. I didn't realize you had an acrylic block. I just assumed it was all aluminum, acetal or an alloy. Probably then I'd just rinse with a small amount of the solution you plan to use, or whatever they recommend. I'm unsure what damage the isopropyl alcohol would cause to the acrylic though. Perhaps discoloration? In any case, if they recommend against it, I'd follow their recommendation. Perhaps boil the water prior to using it for cleaning would be ok as well. If you use an anti-algae additive or microbial inhibitor it may not matter.

I'm not sure I 100% agree with the recommendations they have there though, as almost every major CPU cooler manufacturer and tech website recommends using isopropyl alcohol to clean cpu lid and heatsink base surfaces, and many of those heatsink bases are nickel plated copper, bare copper or aluminum.

Not convinced about their claim that vinegar kills 99.9% of bacteria either. Pretty much all the data I've found indicates some form of this:

Cons:So does vinegar kill germs? The exact science is a little murky. When it comes to food safety, vinegar hasn't been as thoroughly tested as chlorine bleach. Studies that find it kills germs are generally vague in terms of how much of the germs are killed and how much are left behind. While we often recommend it for general cleaning, it would be great to have more specifics on its germ-killing capabilities, especially for people who have someone with a compromised immune system in their home, or some other reason to be extra concerned about germs.
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Considering the "eh" nature of their recommendations, I'd follow them as it regards not using isopropyl alcohol on the acrylic, simply because it might tend to discolor it, but as far as the bacteria is concerned, I'd be a bit more stringent than simply trusting a bottle of "distilled" water to be free of common bacteria or metals. Using a pitcher style water filter might be a good idea in addition to it being distillled. Might be overkill, but that's probably better than being too lax.

Although I don't have extensive experience with custom loop cooling, I have been present when a custom loop was pulled apart, that had opaque tubing, to find significant growth after six months despite having used a microbial agent.
 
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I always flush a new radiator but never a new CPU or GPU water block!

I don't know of anyone that actually does that!

After a CPU or GPU has some service life of time and you're cleaning and flushing your system then you should disassemble and inspect and clean if cleaning is necessary, but not to put a brand new water block into service.

Unless it is a brand new water block like the EK Supremacy EVO that is either an Intel or AMD jet plate setup with the flow concentrator and jet plate, that may need to have the flow concentrator and jet plate swapped out for Intel or AMD.

They usually come preset for Intel CPUs (If not the information with the water block will tell you so!), so in the Intel CPU situation there's no need to even open the block at all, but even then, you don't have to clean it, it is already ready to go as far as that is concerned.

The old Danger Den water blocks used to sport a sticker, that if you disassembled the water block you lost your warranty. (Which IMO was totally absurd! As after time of operation you need to clean the water block and you shouldn't loose your warranty cleaning a water block!)

Most of us do use vinegar as a cleaning agent on copper water blocks, but not on nickel plated anything!

I run 100% pure steam distilled water with no additives except a little citric acid, and I've been running close to 4 years with no corrosion on any blocks but my system is all copper.

You definitely need to flush a radiator before putting it into service I usually take mine outside and run water through it using home water pressure, reversing the flow through the radiator to dislodge any possible manufacturing process contaminants left behind.

You've been getting some information in this thread that is absolutely not accurate, never use isopropyl alcohol inside a water block, you can use iso alcohol to clean off TIM outside the water block but not inside the block!

You're much better off to use what the water block manufacturer recommends!

Never use automotive type coolants like inhibited glycol with an acrylic faced water block, it will cause the acrylic on the water block and your reservoir to crack and fail!



 
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Solution


I unselected this answer as the best answer as others reading this thread may think it is the best answer and it is not!

You do at least realize Isopropyl alcohol is only a percentage of alcohol usually 50%, 70%, or 91%, of alcohol mixed with sterile water?

And it is recommended not to use Isopropyl alcohol with acrylic!

I wouldn't use water at all. The idea that liquid cooling is "water cooled" is a misrepresentation of the fact. Water isn't generally used at all. Special coolant mixtures similar to antifreeze are generally used,
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What?

Wrong!

How is "water cooled" a misrepresentation of the fact?

Many water coolers run 100% steam distilled water and nothing else at all, some use an added drop of Biocide, or Citric Acid, or a Silver Kill Coil and nothing else, but water!

Where are you getting this information from?

Special coolant mixtures similar to antifreeze are generally used
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Antifreeze like is used in the automobile industry is absolutely not to be used with any type of acrylic used in the loop, like an acrylic reservoir that 99% of water coolers use, why do you think there is no acrylic in an actual automotive coolant loop?

Because, glycol derivatives break down acrylic and cause it to crack and fail.

You need to study up, on what you are advising others, before you pass it out!







 
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Your problem is underlined above!

When you advise others here at Toms Hardware especially as a moderator you are expected to supply 100% accurate information, or else, you are supplying False Information, and violating the very forum rules you are supposed to be enforcing!

 
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The only reason you would need to disassemble a new CPU water block is if the water block requires different jetting for either Intel or AMD, and then just follow the water blocks instructions to change the jet plate system, but CPU water blocks are factory cleaned and ready to go.

GPU water blocks are factory cleaned and inspected before assembly and then flushed and leak tested before leaving the factory.

Radiators however do need to be flushed before putting into service.

There are many water coolers here at Toms Hardware that are experts, real experts (not 5 best answers equals an expert), in water cooling, like rubix_1011, manofchalk, and others that don't come to mind right now, they will lead you in the right direction.

 
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Am just very thanks full and speechless .. and made a smile on my face, thank you, since i digested your information way quicker.

As i mentioned earlier rubix_1011 followed me on one of my questions and he was AWESOME, very informative ..... Thumbs Up.

Back to Topic, i already flushed my Rad (guide in rubix_1011 sticky).

But what was confusing is the CPU and GPU Blocks, EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel and the EK-FC970 GTX WF3 - Nickel, brand new out of the box.

I did not mention the exact model when i started the thread because my question was generic, and applies as a rule of thumb for most new blocks (do i disassemble for first cleaning or not), and Thanks you RYAN, I SHOULD NOT DO THAT

I really enjoyed your explanation and the information structure.

I think i chatted with a Water Cooling Veteran, and that would end up the discussion at least from my side, and for what i am looking for.

Again thanks a lot for pointing things out and putting things on the right track.
 
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Sorry I missed this thread before, but seems like you got everything wrapped up.

Always, always, always, ALWAYS flush new radiators very thoroughly before running in a loop the first time. Most blocks are generally pretty clean and free of gunk as they are CNC milled and flushed when completed, but radiators are brazed and soldered together which leaves a lot of oily residue and some semi-metallic remnants. You definitely don't want this eating away at your pump impeller and everything else, for that matter.

I usually do a hot water soak in soapy water in a bathtub for about 10 mins and then drain and rinse to break down the oily residue. I then use a 5 gallon bucket and an extra pump I have with tubing/fittings and run for 15-20 mins in a loop of my rads with about 25% vinegar/75% water solution and let that churn. I then dump the bucket, rinse well (rads and bucket), and then run only hot water the second time. You'd be surprised how dirty new radiators can be on the inside.
 
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If you get stuck on something feel free to PM, I have over 4 years of actual computer water cooling experience and rubix_1011 has more time invested in water cooling than I do, we all kinda consider him the original water cooling Toms Hardware Guru.

 
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Ethelene glycol is used in liquid cooling. Ethelene glycol is used in automotive cooling, but I never said automative antifreeze should be used in a liquid cooled setup, at all, so I'm not sure where you got that idea. I also specifically stated that I don't have extensive custom loop experience and that for the most part, the manufacturers recommendations should be followed.

My applogies for any confusion and I certainly did not intend to mislead anybody, ever. As I also stated, and gave the reasons for, the few custom loops I've worked with, have had isopropyl alcohol used on them for cleaning purposes and although none of those parts were acrylic I was unaware of any potential issues, and had none on those systems. I'll consider myself better informed now in regard to that. Again, I certainly wasn't attempting to mislead the OP or anybody else.

My facts come from here, so although we've not had disagreements in the past, I would suggest getting mad at the editors of Overclockers, rather than me, as I was simply repeating the information I picked up at the article located there which states that it should be used in mixed metal loops as seen here:

◾Use distilled water or deionized water; nothing else. ◾Tap water would breed algae and the junk in it would aid in gunking up your parts.
◾I’ve seen it reported that deionized water would pick up stray ions from your parts and lead to corrosion. This is questionable however, considering IBM uses it. A lot of places outside the US have deionized as a cheaper solution than distilled. If it’s what is available, by all means use it without worry.
◾A big difference between deionized and distilled is that deionization only removes the minerals; distilling removes minerals and biological components.
◾I personally use distilled only, but it’s up to you. There is no dispute however that you should never, ever use tap water.

◾Use some type of biocide. ◾One of the most popular options is PT Nuke. There are two versions of PT Nuke. One is for pre-mixed fluids and dyes. The other is for straight distilled water. PT Nuke is simple to use, inexpensive and works very well.
◾Another option is a silver kill coil. Pure silver serves as a biocide without adding anything to the water itself.


There are other things you can put in / combine with distilled water. Ethylene glycol (antifreeze) is a common one. I’ve also seen diluted methanol used (windshield washer fluid), though that one is slightly flammable and I’d not use it personally.

Ethylene Glycol / Antifreeze is really only necessary in two situations. The first is if you plan on cooling your loop below freezing temperature (i.e. submersing your radiator in cold water and/or putting it outside a window in winter.) The second is for mixed-metal loops. The only mixed-metal loop I ran was with an aluminum-topped GPU block. Due to that, it needed some antifreeze additive.
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Article located here: http://www.overclockers.com/beginners-guide-water-cooling/


Since I also indicated I had not worked with an acrylic block before, and that the one I had worked with was aluminum it seemed to apply. I could be wrong, that's just the way I took it from the data I was able to find. No foul play intended.

Also, I guess the fact that I generally work with milled automotive and industrial parts has trained me to the belief that any milled part likely to be run through any kind of pump should be cleaned prior to putting the part into service as not every manufacturer has the same procedural cleanliness and I've seen micro-debris on and in a variety of parts for every conceivable application. I just assumed, apparently incorrectly, it would apply here as well. Since you've indicated it unlikely to be necessary, rest assured I'll understandably not recommend that procedure going forward.
 
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I will take responsibility for the misleading statement about not using water though. I meant, not straight water, and again was basing that off knowledge of mixed metal applications and corrosive properties of straight water. THAT statement should be ignored in it's entirety as it came out entirely wrong. My apologies for that.
 
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Here's the actual article I had read, which seems to indicate I was mostly correct in the assumption that straight water shouldn't be used. If I'm wrong, I'm wrong, but I assure you I wasn't just talking out my left earhole.

http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii/



And it seems that Koolance, IMAGEblck, Alphacool, Aquacomputer, Black Ice, Coolgate and just about every other manufacturer on FrozenCPU sell aluminum radiators. Not all models to be sure, some are copper/brass mixtures. I seem to recall that even brass/copper has some mixed metal interaction as well. Not sure how drastic that is known to be but to me it would seem worth consideration. I know brass and copper react in residential plumbing to some degree. Any reason why manufacturers would run glycol mixtures in closed loops but not use it in a custom loop?


Also, even your water cooling sticky states

When you get all your new components, take some time to inspect and rinse all components; you'd be surprised how much debris, flux, gunk, etc that gets left inside components.
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Which to me indicates ALL components, not just the radiator, thus my recommendation and prior practice of cleaning all components.

In any case, I think I'll avoid the custom loop threads going forward. I'd like to avoid getting reamed by Ryan a second time. Heh.
 
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Most manufacturers have gone away from aluminum in anything watercooling mainly because of the horror stories of galvanic corrosion. They know that customers won't buy something if there is an associated negative outcome, so almost all quality rads are brass and copper built. Yes, there continues to still be some, so I don't want to blanket statement that at all.

Also, as far as water goes...just plain distilled water and some anti-microbial drops should do you just fine. Shouldn't need anything else fancy.
 
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