Question PC freeze, and then a black screen ?

[Goos Meer]

I've got this problem of PC suddenly freezing and then a black screen, the PC is still on with a red CPU diagnostic light and it wont stop unless hard reboot.

System:

• MOBO: MSI B450 Gaming Plus.
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600.
• GPU: MSI RX 580 Armor OC 8GB.
• RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2666MHz 16GB (2x8) @ A-XMP.
• SSD: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB.
• HDD#1: Seagate Barracuda 5400RPM 1TB.
• HDD#2: Seagate Barracuda 5400RPM 4TB.
• PSU#1: Corsair CV750 80+ Bronze.
• PSU#2: Cooler Master MWE 230V 450 80+ White.
• CASE: Armageddon Kagami K-5 (With its front panel taken off).
• FAN: Arctic P12 x5 (3 front intakes, 2 exhaust).

Chronologically, i was using the Corsair CV750 until i messed up while disassembling and reassembling it. I turned the power button switch on and off a couple of times in short span because i was freaked out it did not give me a video output, and it turned out the HDMI was plugged into the MOBO output. It worked after that night, however, not too long after, the PC sometimes will suddenly freezes and then black screen even when idle/light browsing.

The steps i've taken at that time:

• Monitoring the temps. Mostly fine, at most 80c, thermal shutdown only occurs at 100c.
• Reseating & benchmarking the CPU with Cinebench.
• Reseating & benchmarking the GPU with Furmark.
• Reseating & memtest the RAM 2x, as well as testing each RAM separately and putting it into another PC (an OEM HP system).
• Reinstalling Windows 10.
• CHKDSK, DISM, SFC.
• All the cables were tight. More than tight actually, it stuck.
• Swapping the Corsair PSU to Cooler Master and it fixed it (well duh).

After that, i installed LMDE 6, which worked well for about 4-5 months until i nuked my boot & EFI. I then booted into a live environment and moved all the home dir files to my laptop via SSFTP, it was fine at first. However after moving all of my files for the whole day, the day after when i was about to install Linux Mint Cinnamon, and updating through the update manager in the live environment, my cursor stopped moving, and then the screen went black again.

Because of that, i benchmarked the CPU and GPU in the live environment, with Sysbench and Furmark for about 5-20 minutes. Here are the images:

And since the live environment is stored on the flash disk, i doubt it is the SSD. The GNOME disk also showed a healthy S.M.A.R.T test.

I then proceed to install mint, but now the installer wont work at all. It was working previously, albeit somehow real slow, could just be a bug for this version. So i went and installed OpenSUSE Tumbleweed instead, and it worked for about a day or two, but the issue came back when i was browsing the internet. A hard boot resets it.

Steps i'm about to take:

• Updating the BIOS; my last update was the 2022 version.
• Buying a Prolink Line Inverter UPS (Simulated Sinewave).
• If that doesn't work then a new Fractal ION+ 2 560W 80+ Platinum.
• If that doesn't work then a new B450M Mortar Max.

My questions:

• Is it normal to break 2 PSU in a short span? the 1st was likely of my own doing, but the 2nd?
• Should i just immediately change the PSU instead of buying a UPS?
• How do i know if MOBO is not the issue?
• How do i know if my unstable 3rd world electricity is not the culprit? I do have batteryless laptop and it is fine however.
• Can i use MSI B450 Gaming Plus MAX BIOS for my MSI B450 Gaming Plus non-MAX? Considering the BIOS for my MOBO is a "beta version" for the last two years.

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

the PC isstill on with a red CPU diagnostic light and it wont stop unless hard reboot
That could indicate your CPU is on it's way out, or the memory controller is faulty/failing or your motherboard's BIOS has been rendered corrupt.

PSU#2: Cooler Master MWE 230V 450 80+ White.
Not exactly a unit I'd call reliable, nor a PSU for that matter. Wattage wise, you were fine with the 750W unit. You chose a lackluster PSU with lower wattage as a troubleshooting unit, which isn't ruling any part out of your issue.

Monitoring the temps. Mostly fine, at most 80c, thermal shutdown only occurs at 100c.
You forgot to mention the make and model of your case and the cooler you're working with to cool your processor.

Reinstalling Windows 10
Where did you source the installer for the OS? Did you recreate the installer to rule out a corruption?

If that doesn't work then a new Fractal ION+ 2 560W 80+ Platinum.
Since you're working with an RX580, you should be looking into a reliably built 650W unit to power the entire build.

How do i know if MOBO is not the issue?
By dropping all of your parts onto a known working motherboard with the right socket and BIOS version. If the issue goes away, then your motherboard or it's BIOS are the issue.

How do i know if my unstable 3rd world electricity is not the culprit? I do have batteryless laptop and it is fine however.
Call in a certified electrician and scope out your wiring. On a side note, using a UPS would help with sudden power blackout. A reliably built PSU would refine the power from the wall, mind you.

Can i use MSI B450 Gaming Plus MAX BIOS for my MSI B450 Gaming Plus non-MAX? Considering the BIOS for my MOBO is a "beta version" for the last two years.
Always adhere with the BIOS meant for your motherboard, not another one, regardless of the model in spite of having the same chipsets.

 

[Goos Meer]

That could indicate your CPU is on it's way out

Can a dying CPU endure a 100% load? Shouldn't a stress touches the faulty part and immediately cause it to go haywire?

Not exactly a unit I'd call reliable, nor a PSU for that matter. Wattage wise, you were fine with the 750W unit. You chose a lackluster PSU with lower wattage as a troubleshooting unit, which isn't ruling any part out of your issue.

Indeed, but that Cooler Master PSU was actually the original that i bought back in 2017/2018. And it survived 8 years-ish without problem, until this month that is.

You forgot to mention the make and model of your case and the cooler you're working with to cool your processor.

Yep, sorry. It's a no name brand called Armageddon Kagami K5, and the cooler is AMD Wraith Stock. EDIT: It has 5 Arctic 120mm fan, 3 front intakes, 1 back & 1 bottom exhaust, also a Cooler Master Mastergel thermal paste.

Where did you source the installer for the OS? Did you recreate the installer to rule out a corruption?

Directly from Microsoft website. I'm not sure by recreate the installer, but fresh installation resulted in the same issue, and i've verified the ISO.

Since you're working with an RX580, you should be looking into a reliably built 650W unit to power the entire build.

I'll think about it. But the 450W works reliably for 8 years, i doubt it will be an issue with 560W i think?

Call in a certified electrician and scope out your wiring. On a side note, using a UPS would help with sudden power blackout. A reliably built PSU would refine the power from the wall, mind you.

Is there any note or advice for my UPS of choice? I couldn't get full Pure Sinewave Online UPS since it costs almost as the entire computer.

Always adhere with the BIOS meant for your motherboard, not another one, regardless of the model in spite of having the same chipsets.

Even if it means going with the beta version?

 

[Lutfij]

PSU#1: Corsair CX750 80+ Bronze (not the green CX).
+
Indeed, but that PSU was actually the original. And it survived 8 years without problem, until this month that is.
The Corsair unit you've mentioned above, CX750;
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/psu...5XUmcPHJ00_vgFSC91cpPkPJHeMauXe#tab-techspecs
has a 5 year warranty. You ran it for 3 years beyond that warranty period. A PSU will degrade internally over time, while it's degradation will accelerate when subjected to high loads constantly and/or under high ambient room temps.

It's a no name brand called Armageddon Kagami K5

View: https://youtu.be/H2Tc8q9ocb8

Honestly, with little to no ventilation for the fans to draw in cooler ambient air, that case is a hot box...ready to cook your internals. All your cooling inside doesn't matter if you can't feed them with cooler ambient air from outside the case.

But the 450W works reliably for 8 years, i doubt it will be an issue with 560W i think?
Wait. I'm confused now. Which PSU is 8 years old?

Even if it means going with the beta version?
If the latest is a beta version while I'm seeing instability on the version prior to the beta, I flash tot he beta version in hopes that it resolves the issue. This is what I do, I don't advocate others to do the same as they might not know how to identify the issue if it were to happen.

 

[Goos Meer]

The Corsair unit you've mentioned above, CX750;
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/psu...5XUmcPHJ00_vgFSC91cpPkPJHeMauXe#tab-techspecs
has a 5 year warranty. You ran it for 3 years beyond that warranty period. A PSU will degrade internally over time, while it's degradation will accelerate when subjected to high loads constantly and/or under high ambient room temps.

Wait. I'm confused now. Which PSU is 8 years old?

My mistake, i'm not clear enough. I mean the Cooler Master 230V MWE 80+ White was the original bought in 2017/2018 along with the RX 580. It wasn't until late 2023 that I finally upgraded to Corsair CV750 80+ Bronze (I mixed up the CV with the CX).

You just reminded me that i still have warranty left. However, I do wonder if the CV series are worth it?

Honestly, with little to no ventilation for the fans to draw in cooler ambient air, that case is a hot box...ready to cook your internals. All your cooling inside doesn't matter if you can't feed them with cooler ambient air from outside the case.

Should've mentioned this. I do take the front panel off, or sometimes the side panel.

This is what I do, I don't advocate others to do the same as they might not know how to identify the issue if it were to happen.

Fair enough, i could downgrade since this was never an issue with its original BIOS. And if it doesn't work then continue progressively through the beta.

 

[Lutfij]

It wasn't until late 2023 that I finally upgraded to Corsair CV750 80+ Bronze (I mixed up the CV with the CX).
The CV was a rebadged VS unit(the one with the yellow label) that's actually a step down from the CX unit = bad quality PSU. CX's are borderline acceptable anything below that is just a waste of money.

Should've mentioned this. I do take the front panel off, or sometimes the side panel.
Defeats the purpose of having a case.

Fair enough, i could downgrade since this was never an issue with its original BIOS. And if it doesn't work then continue progressively through the beta.
Please don't downgrade the BIOS as there are instance where the process caused the board to end up as an expensive paperweight. Either move up or leave the BIOS alone.

 

[Goos Meer]

The CV was a rebadged VS unit(the one with the yellow label) that's actually a step down from the CX unit = bad quality PSU.

I see, i'll buy a new PSU then.

Please don't downgrade the BIOS as there are instance where the process caused the board to end up as an expensive paperweight. Either move up or leave the BIOS alone.

There is a BIOS Flashback+ button on the back IO though? Is it still too risky?

I saw another forum thread that does exactly that, and the specs are quite similar as well.

 

[Lutfij]

There is a BIOS Flashback+ button on the back IO though? Is it still too risky?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU7ZMmSmu20

Like I've said, if the system isn't showing any signs of instability with your current BIOS, leave it alone. The saying goes, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you're yet intent on flashing the BIOS for your motherboard, make sure you're on the latest chipset driver then update the BIOS.

Throughout this time you've only circled back at your existing hardware. To add you've been working with bad quality PSU's, I've asked you to source another unit(borrow, not buy) and see if the issue persists but here we are circling back to BIOS. Lastly, if you're going to buy a part to troubleshoot your existing system, you're going to end up with a multitude of new parts albeit with yesteryears tech. This is why borrowing is mentioned instead of buying.

 

[Goos Meer]

Isn't that what you're insinuating? I'm confused.

or your motherboard's BIOS has been rendered corrupt.

If the latest is a beta version while I'm seeing instability on the version prior to the beta, I flash tot he beta version in hopes that it resolves the issue.

And no, unfortunately. I'm not in a position to borrow any computer parts.

Anyway, the PSU arrived just yesterday, so I assembled each and every part back together. That night, it booted but with the caveat that only 8GB of RAM out of the 2x8 CMK16GX4M2Z2666C16 was recognized. I then ran the command

sudo lshw -class memory

which showed that 2 DIMMs were occupied. I went back to the BIOS, and it displayed the same information: 2 RAM modules installed physically at 2666MHz.

This morning, I turned the PC back on, and it booted into Mint, albeit a bit slow, and still showing 8GB of RAM, so I turned it off and went about my day. When I returned, thinking it was a reseating issue, I turned off the PSU, unplugged the PC, and then reseated both RAM modules in the same slots as before, which are DIMMA2 and DIMMB2. Now, however, the system stops at the DRAM red debug light, and I can't even access the BIOS.