Computer Build Shows No Signal on Screen on First Boot

BrightDarkness

Reputable
Aug 14, 2014
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System Specifications:
Video Card: SAPPHIRE 100364-4GL Radeon R9 270X 4GB GDDR5 Video Card
CPU: AMD FX-6350 Vishera 6-Core 3.9GHz Socket AM3+ 125W Desktop Processor FD6350FRHKBOX
Motherboard: ASUS M5A97 R2.0 AM3+ AMD 970 + SB950 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive
Liquid Cooling System: Cooler Master Seidon 120M – All-In-One CPU Liquid Water Cooling System with 120mm Radiator and Fan
Case: Xigmatek Assassin II CCM-45ABX-U01 Black SECC ATX Full Tower Computer Case
SSD: SAMSUNG 840 EVO MZ-7TE250BW 2.5" 250GB SATA 6Gb/s 1x nm Samsung Toggle DDR 2.0 3-Bit MLC NAND Flash Memory (400Mbps) Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9
Power Supply: Antec NeoECO C NEO ECO 520C 520W ATX12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply

So I assume someone is going to just tell me to look at the check list on this site, so I will go ahead and say I tried going through the checklist thoroughly and to no avail. I will also say I have built several computers and this is the first I have ever had a problem booting. I am using a TV connected using HDMI (no on board so connected straight to the video card) and have also tried several HDMI cords, but no matter what there is the lovely "No Signal" message. The power supply seems fine; seeing as the case's/liquid cooling system's fans spin, the video card's fan spin, and a green light on the mobo lights up. I think everything listed is compatible, if not let me know.
 
Solution
Honestly, I don't know diddly about using a TV as a monitor, I just happen to see a lot of posts from folks who have similar issues when using them for their startup monitor. If memory serves, at least a few of them were able to get graphics when they hooked up regular monitors.

Anyway, try disconnecting all of the drives and see if it will boot to BIOS with visual on screen. If it will, check your BIOS version - should be on the "Main" menu page. If it's lower than 2501, you should update it. You can either do it at this point using the USB BIOS Flashback feature or MB EZ Flash 2, or do it later once your OS is up and running (assuming we can get it that far). If you're not familiar with how to do that, let me know. If it...
The the power connections (2 power connections on GPU, 8-pin on mobo and 20/24 pin on mobo). That would be the first thing I checked.

2nd thing to check would be that the CPU and RAM are seated properly (although the green light on the mobo should indicate that the RAM & CPU check out).

Last, try clearing the CMOS.
 


I have both power connections connected to the mobo, have reseated the CPU and RAM multiple times already, and am not quite sure how to clear the CMOS. There is no battery on the mobo that I can see to pull out and put back in to clear the CMOS.
 


I did have all the drives hooked up upon first boot. That also reminds me that the optical drive is external and gets plugged in via USB, which I hooked up upon first boot too. It will take some time to try an actual monitor, but I will get on that, I just thought the TV should technically work just fine.
 
Page 1-19 of your manual shows the CMOS clear jumper. Make sure the power supply is switched OFF and unplugged before changing the jumper. Follow the instructions in the manual to the letter.....

To erase the RTC RAM:
1. Turn OFF the computer and unplug the power cord.
2. Move the jumper cap from pins 1-2 (default) to pins 2-3. Keep the cap on pins 2-3 for about 5~10 seconds, then move the cap back to pins 1-2.
3. Plug the power cord and turn ON the computer.
4. Hold down the <Del> key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to reenter data.
 
Honestly, I don't know diddly about using a TV as a monitor, I just happen to see a lot of posts from folks who have similar issues when using them for their startup monitor. If memory serves, at least a few of them were able to get graphics when they hooked up regular monitors.

Anyway, try disconnecting all of the drives and see if it will boot to BIOS with visual on screen. If it will, check your BIOS version - should be on the "Main" menu page. If it's lower than 2501, you should update it. You can either do it at this point using the USB BIOS Flashback feature or MB EZ Flash 2, or do it later once your OS is up and running (assuming we can get it that far). If you're not familiar with how to do that, let me know. If it won't show BIOS on screen, I'd go ahead and flash it, then go from there.

In the BIOS, set your boot priority to USB or ODD, whichever you're going to use for Windows install. It's been so long since I've used an external ODD that I can't remember whether BIOS will recognize it as a USB device or an optical drive - I believe USB. Whichever, make sure they're plugged into a USB 2.0 port, not a 3.0 port. Then save, exit, and shutdown.

At this point, connect ONLY the drive you want the OS on. (Which OS, by the way?) Then power back up and see if it takes you into the Windows install menu. If it does, complete the install and then go on to installing drivers. Once all that is out of the way, reconnect your other drives and configure as necessary.

Let me know if you get hung up anywhere along the way.

 
Solution


Okay, so I have tried several things now. I made sure the video card is good by putting it into another build, and confirming it works; seeing as the monitors were displaying things properly. I also cleared the CMOS, and tried booting using a DVI connection to an actual monitor. All of these things did not change a thing, "No Signal." I am now thinking bad mobo.
 
Did you try it with the drives disconnected? Two other things you might try:
- Try booting with just one stick of RAM installed. If it doesn't work, you can try switching the sticks and in different DIMM slots.
- Try it with a different PSU if you have access to one. Preferably a larger one. (The Antec SHOULD be sufficient, if it's working right, but it's worth checking.)
 

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