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manan

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Hello guys,

I have Computer hangs problem. Computer hangs anywhere sometime in bios too, before POST, after POST, during work, and even in safe mode.

So acc. to me its a hardware problem.

I kept my computer open so heating of cabinet is not problem but I thought my CPU heat sink may have problem. CPU fan is working fine.

Ram is ok, I already tested memory test and it shows no problem. Even I tried to removed one ram and test computer.

Power supply also seems fine, because I tried to use another SMPS same problem shows.

My Cabinet fan is jam, but I aready kept my CPU so that fan does not make much effect I hope so.

I have doubt on heatsink but not sure or may be its thermal paste ?

I already checked Events logs no new logs shown currently all are old one.

Here is my computer config:

Processor : P4 2.4ghz
Ram: 1.12 Gb [1 GB +128 MB]
[strike]MOBO: P89v51RD2 [/strike]
MOBO: D845GVSR
Gfx card: No

* Edited mobo model earlier post wrong model.
 

Hellboy

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@ Manan

This motherboards were used in Packard Bells too.

There was a dodgy power supply which when blew took out the motherboard in various ways with symptoms like this..

Why do i know this - because i replaced loads of them a few years back but now i know exactly what board you had. I can relate to this problem...

One thing to try is to clear the CMOS - remove the battery and jumper the clear cmos

here is the manual for it

http://downloadmirror.intel.com/15210/eng/D845GVSR_TechProdSpec.pdf


this is why im 99% certain its the motherboard...

 

manan

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I think you misunderstand, I know how to test PSU with multimeter.

I want you to describe next procedure.

this one: "available heat sources and comprehensive diagnostics."
 

manan

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can you tell me which jumper you are talking abt, the bios one ?
Are you want me to perform what exactly on 59th page of that manal is ?




ok i connect jumper 2-3 pin and now maintaince mode comes.

1. Clear all passwords. [i know abt this, btw idid not set any pass]
2. Clear BIS credentials [I don't know what is this, can you tell should I clear or not ?]
3. Max cpuid value limit: disabled
4. Default frequency ratio: Disabled.


All these 4 options under maintaince tab. Plz explain 2 -4 option, what should i select.

thanks,
 

manan

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Now fixed my CPU case fan. :D Working fine, full speed and smoothly.
and also I just update my system BIOS :) BIOS updated successfully[BIOS Update [VA84510A.86A]].

also test PSU with multimeter, ALL voltages are fine. I dont think there is any problem in PSU.


@ hellboy,

kindly respond my above query.

@westom


Here is PSU results:

Yellow wire: 12.25V
Orange: 3.42V
Blue: -12.24V
Red: 5.32V
White: -5.12V

Hope it helps. According to me PSU is working fine.
 

westom

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Absolute nonsense. A meter will report all that and more. One minute of labor to know immediately. Numbers make possible for the better informed to report on conditions such as sufficient amperage, operation of a power controller, and other items not even mentioned.

Why so many posts based in fear and ignorance? One minute of labor with a meter means half of previous posts could be deleted as irrelevant recommendations. Why spend so much time with naive claims that a meter cannot report this? Fear and ignorance that is disposed by numbers from a meter.

{new edit} Those meter numbers report voltages that are excessive. Red wire must not exceed 5.25. It reads 5.32. Orange wire at 3.42 is at the edge of too high (3.46). Yellow wire is OK. But other critically important voltages from the purple, green, and gray wires are not provided. Also not requested by instructions are voltages form the white wire (that has no purpose) and blue wire.

From numbers provided (and assuming meter readings were taken properly and as instructed), that power supply has defective regulation.
 

westom

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There was no reason (no facts) to upgrade a Bios. Changing or upgrading something when other defects exist is just another reason why shotgunning creates complication and confusion.

Ignore a USB defect for now. It is not relevant to your original problem. Fix that original problem by first identifying defects. Power supply numbers report a defect (assuming you took those numbers as instructed). Fix an obvious problem first. That obvious problem is relevant to symptoms in your original post.

Never fix anything on speculation. BIOS was irrelevant to your original problem. Fixing a BIOS that was not defective is an example of shotgunning - fixing things only on wild speculation.
 

manan

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I corrected my usb problem, It was disabled in maintaince mode. So I go back into maintaince mode by changing jumper and enabled from there. :p

I also tested PSU, its is ok, Posted its readings in the earlier post.
 

westom

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Yes. The PSU is defective. And then the reasons why were also provided.

Numbers for excessive were defined. Your red wire is clearly excessive - supply regulation is bad. But - and again. Also asked were important measurment on other wires. Some wires report two numbers. How were those measurements made? Those measurements must be taken with a mulitmeter - not using the motherboard voltmeter.

Posted on 5 May is what was requested:
> A multimeter must measure six wires both before and as the power button is pressed.
> Critical wires that connect the PSU to motherboard are a green, gray, purple, and any
> one red, orange, and yellow wires. All measurements must be done with nothing
> disconnected or removed. Numbers reported to three digits.

If those numbers were accuarte, then the PSU is defective. Also important is how those numbers were taken. If those numbers were taken as requested (not even one wire or part disconnected or removed, and using a multimeter), then numbers say that PSU is defective. That was stated two posts ago on 8 May:
> {new edit} Those meter numbers report voltages that are excessive.
 

manan

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These reading were taken with case fan load :) and yes these reading taken by multimeter. and it shows at 2 decimal only, I will see if by decrasing scale it gives at 3 digits or not.

How you are supposed to take reading when nothing disconected :O Its all covered from all sides.

BTW I heard PSU is always tested by disconnecting MOBO and other hardware like HDD,CDdrive etc, Is not it ?
 

westom

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Defects in a power supply are invisible without everything connected. Measuring a disconnected PSU is how a useless power supply tester gets promoted.

A PSU connects to the motherboard via a nylon connector. A multimeter probe is pressed into that connector to measure each wire.

Best way to measure the red, orange, and yellow wires is with a maximum load. Many defects cannot be seen without a maximum load. Prime86 does not provide a maximum load. Load means the OS is accessing every peripheral simultaneously. IOW the graphics card is processing complex graphics (ie a movie), while downloading from the internet, while powering a USB device, while reading a CD-Rom, while search the hard drive, while ... That is probably the best you can do. And typically enough to see power 'system defects. Not just a PSU. Then entire power 'system'.

Appreciate what we are doing here. If doors are getting stuck and walls are cracked, then do you plane door and patch cracks? Of course not. You first inspect the house foundation and girder. Multimeter is doing same. A failure of the underlying foundation (ie a power 'system') can create numerous strange and confusing failures. Inspect a foundation (or power system) before fixing anything else. That can only be accomplished with numbers from those six wires and full loading.
 

manan

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Here is PSU results with load, Have a look:

Yellow wire: 12.17V
Orange: 3.40V
Blue: -12.18V
Red: 5.25V
White: -5.08V
Purple: 5.10V
Grey: 5.25V
Green 0.01V

Meter gives only point 2 decimal reading :)
 

Hellboy

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I still recon on the motherboard.... I had a board doing the same soi replaced it...

Ive got about 20 P4 boards instock ironically all brand new :) - micro atx .. saying that i got some socket 462's and a couple of 939s unused too.
 

westom

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Meter reads to three 'digits' as requested. Not 'decimal'. Three 'digits'.

Again, "Those meter numbers report voltages that are excessive. Red wire must not exceed 5.25." It now reads an excessive 5.25 even with a maximum load. It read 5.32 with less load. That is a defect.

More might be known if other wires were measured as requested:
A multimeter must measure six wires both before and as the power button is pressed. Critical wires that connect the PSU to motherboard are a green, gray, purple, ...
Only provided are green and gray after the switch is pressed. That Gray wire (a signal to report on all critical voltages) is also excessive.

Possible is a defect on the motherboard. But the PSU is defective; has a regulation problem. Red wire and gray wire voltages are excessive. Those numbers may also be a symptom of other problems. More expensive equipment might say more. But enough is known to say 5.25 VDC under maximum load is a voltage defect. Voltages on the purple, gray and green before the switch is pressed might say more. But a red wire at 5.25 under maximum load and at 5.32 under light load is poor voltage regulation.

(White wire is a useless voltage - some supplies do not even bother to provide it. Blue wire also says nothing useful - is often only used by the power supply fan.)

 

manan

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from last 10-12 days system is running fine, even I worked on it for 5-6 hours without any prob and today it has 3 freezes whenever I start my system. (ater 2-3 minutes when OS is loaded).

Strangely sometime it starts creating problem and sometime not.


One more thing, We press power button for few seconds when we have to forcely shutdown system, but in my case when I press it for few seconds its shutdown as normal and as soon as I leave (loose) power button, system again started. I dont think this was happening earlier. May be this has connection with system hang ups.
 

kfitzenreiter

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My first thought was to remove heat sink and cpu thermal paste and clean. Apply fresh thermal paste, reseat cpu and maybe get new fan for heat sink after a good blast of air from a can
 

westom

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First, that was discussed in *** previous post. Normal is for *** defective supply to still boot and run *** computer. Another reason why shotgunning can create confusion. Your numbers say *** defect exists. That defect may not explain your other problems. But numbers say that voltage has bad regulation. And does explain intermittent type failures.

The voltages can be defective constantly. But *** computer works 99% of the time. That is how electronics work.

Second, is the power button defective? Also answered by the meter. Make *** solid connection to the switch wire (ie clip the meter probes to sewing needles). Meter on 200 ohms setting. Switch should short when pressed. Not short when left untouched. And not short when the loose switch is shaken.

Power controller monitors that switch. If the switch shorts only momentarily, then *** power controller will power on the computer.
 

westom

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Why are you trying to fix things when nothing in your post says those things are defective? Why fix things before learning what is defective?

Posted repeatedly. *** perfectly good supply can fail in an otherwise good computer. *** defective supply can still boot *** computer. No reason exists to believe swapping provides useful facts. You have every reason to know how to use *** meter. To have *** reply that contains no wild speculation. And spend much less time.

If your computer is from *** more responsible manufacturer, then you have comprehensive hardware diagnostics that make solutions easier. But currently you have no hard facts; therefore no useful reply. Read the previous post that defines how to use *** multimeter. Those numbers result in immediate and definitive help. Your replies will only be as useful as fact that you provide.
 

manan

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Ok here is the situation, Before 20 days ago I formatted my HDD completely and then create two partitions and installed fresh Window XP.

from yesterday system freezes two three times. and today one time its restarted auto and then 3 -4 times hang (some time on PSOT one time on welcome screen adn two times after start up)

then I completely shutdown the system and again started after 2 hours , Its start up normally but again hang after start up.

and then i tried to restart forcefully, but its not start up. Light on Mobo is glowing fan is running both cpu and case fan and also power supply. But no display, When i restart the system for fraction of sec only keyboard light glow and not after neither anythig on monitor.

So I removed CPU heatsink and cleaned again applied fresh thermal paste and put everything back.

Again power on, But still nothing no display, but fan and mobo lights are working.

Then I tried to start PC by removing both RAM sticks and its does not produce any beep without ram stick.

[I think good mobo/cpu produces beep when we start system without any memory]

I even tried to put one stick at a time but nothing.

SO what does it signifies ? MOBO or Processor ??


------------
Edited:

Now I remoevd everythng , take out the mobo and check its CAP, Everything seems fine then I clean little bit dust (minor).

and Put back everything and start up the sytem. Now its up!! Working :)

There must be something wrong with mobo I suppose.
 

ryanjourdon

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hai manan,

i have also the same problem in my computer, i just search in internet to fix that. at that time i found the web hellopcsupport. i just log in and the fix my problem, they dont that by using remote desktop now my pc works fine and fast. so you just try that. ok i will give u the link

http://www.hellopcsupport.com/


wish you all the best
 

Hellboy

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good grief what a marketting ploy

someone ban this half wit