Question Computer shuts down when playing video games. Power button does not turn it back on until flipping PSU switch.

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IcyProtocol

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Shortly after receiving this EVGA 650W PSU, I have been having issues with the computer turning off and not being able to turn back on unless I flip the switch on the back of the power supply. The power button on the PC continues to illuminate, but does not turn off the computer. I have updated to windows 11 and thought that was the problem so I downgraded with a fresh install of windows 10 pro. This did not fix the issue. I reinstalled all the drivers of my graphics card, my chipset, etc. And none of this helped either. Looking in the event viewer for when the shut down happens, the only event is there was an unplanned shut down with an event code of 41. This leads me to believe that due to a loss of power or fluctuation of voltage that the power supply is the culprit. Especially because this was the only hardware change made since these issues have started. It seems that the shut downs only have happened on steam games so far, but I assume that is just because of the higher stress that video games put on the PSU and other components.

I have all my speeds at stock speed for RAM, CPU, and GPU, so nothing is overclocked at the moment. I have ran a stress test on OCCT for approximately 20 minutes straight and no shutdown occurred. I have checked voltage rails in the BIOS and it all appears normal with minimum fluctuation. I am at a loss, but the PSU is the only hardware change that was made recently and I had no problems prior to this.
 
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Lutfij

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EVGA have a number of 650W PSU's in their portfolio, what is the model to your unit? Also, please parse the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:

I have updated to windows 11 and thought that was the problem so I downgraded with a fresh install of windows 10 pro.
Once you upgrade to Windows 11, you're advised to reinstall Windows 11 from scratch to root out any inherent issues during the upgrade path. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time?
 

IcyProtocol

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EVGA have a number of 650W PSU's in their portfolio, what is the model to your unit? Also, please parse the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:

I have updated to windows 11 and thought that was the problem so I downgraded with a fresh install of windows 10 pro.
Once you upgrade to Windows 11, you're advised to reinstall Windows 11 from scratch to root out any inherent issues during the upgrade path. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time?

Thank you for your quick reply,

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600
Motherboard: Gigabyte b450m ds3h
Ram: ADATA XPG 8gb 3000mhz x2
SSD/HDD: Seagate 1TB SSD (Windows installed on), WD Green 2TB HDD (7200rpm)
GPU: Sapphire AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT THICC Edition
PSU: EVGA 100-N1-0650-L1, 650 N1
Chassis: Phanteks Eclipse P300A
OS: Windows 10 Pro

BIOS: F63c (07/20/2022)
 

IcyProtocol

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That's a horrible groupregulated PSU. Replace it for smt decent. With a RX 5700 XT I'd say a Tier A or B unit.
In this same Tierlist you can see the EVGA N1 is listed as Tier F 'replace immediately'.

Of course it is. I wasn't aware of PSU tier lists, so apologies. Maybe next time I will consult that before purchasing. I have an RMA started with EVGA so here's hoping the second one is better. Otherwise I'll probably just cut my losses and buy a new one.
 

IcyProtocol

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One thing I would like to add is that I tried running a torture test through Prime95 on my CPU while simultaneously running MSI Kombustor for my gpu, and no crash while maxing out the load. What may be a coincidence, this has only happened with Steam games so far.
 

DSzymborski

Titan
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Of course it is. I wasn't aware of PSU tier lists, so apologies. Maybe next time I will consult that before purchasing. I have an RMA started with EVGA so here's hoping the second one is better. Otherwise I'll probably just cut my losses and buy a new one.

No, this is a junky group-regulated PSU. An RMA doesn't resolve that issue. The best possible EVGA N1 is one that won't even start at all, because that provides the least amount of risk to expensive components. There is no better N1 because it's a function of very cheap design and cost-cutting.
 
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