Computer Started shutting off under heavy load while playing a computer game.

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CuriousGamer2014

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Apr 11, 2014
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My computer started shutting off while playing either a computer game ( heavy graphics, powered by Radeon HD5770 ), or when making music using a DAW like Reason. Then it started to shut off randomly out of the blue. I thought this might have been a PSU issue, so I went out and got a brand new PSU, previous one wasn't even 6 months old yet. Which was a Thermaltake TR2 600W, and the new one is a logisys 575w. When I switched the PSU that seemed to correct the problem, until a few minutes later when the computer shut off again. Then I started the computer back up again, and my graphics card ( Radeon 5770 ) Starts to spin at a very high rate like its under a heavy load during post/bootup. So I restart once more and this time I switched out the graphics card. Nothing is being displayed now, after the card was just working ( spare pci-e graphics card ) Which I believe to be equal to the nvidia gs series. non powered. But like I said before, now when I try to boot the pc, completely black screen, displays nothing, not even post. Does not have any noticeable beeps. PC powers up just fine, no clicks, clanks, ca-lunk-alunk's, or anything of that nature. I was leaning towards a fresh install of windows thinking I caught a nasty little bug until she stopped even booting up. Now she just powers on and just sits there with a completely black screen. Is anyone else out there having this same issue? Or know how to resolve it? PC isn't even 2 years old.

Just to give you an idea.

Custom PC:

Windows 7 64bit
AMD FX-8120 Processor
gigabyte GA-970A mother board
Logisys 575w PSU
Mid tower ( not like it matters )
Corsair XMS3 DDR3 16gigs ram
WD 500G HD Sata2
Masscool 7WA868 heat sink/fan
Basic 24x/20x sony dvd writer

Those are the basics to help identify a potential problem.

But again like I stated. At first it would start shutting off under heavy load, or it was just a strong coincidence. Then it stopped letting me use the HD5770 video card. So i replaced it with a back up. Both used PCI-E. Was working for a few minutes with back up. Actually I let it sit overnight and it never shut off until I got back on it. And that's when it wouldn't boot back up. The pc turns on and can respond to a forced shut off just fine. But nothing is displayed on the screen no matter which PCI-E port I use. Any help? And please have some years of experience with computers before responding. I have 15+ years. Now a simple fix is buy a new mobo and graphics card. But im asking for all available options besides the obvious which wont be cheap. But if that's my only option, feel free to voice it. All comments are welcome ( that have worked for you, or others with this similar problem )
 
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I hadn't tried another outlet, as everything else seems to work in it without shutting off. But I understand what you mean, due to the power consumption. I will try another outlet. I'll need to find a long extension cord though.
 
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Just got an extension cord today. Ran it to another outlet, So far so good, but I wont know anything for about another day or so. I need to give it at least that long before I rule the embarrassingly simple resolution to my problem resolved.
 
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I think this apt just might have bad sockets. It shut off on me once yesterday morning, but hadn't done it since. Normally it would have done it at least 3 to 4 times by now. Switching outlets seems to have worked for the most part. If I have anything else go wrong I'll post updates as they happen!
 
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Alright guys, I guess I labeled it solved to soon. The issue is back again. Though not as often, it's still going on. I've run out of ideas here. Only things I hadn't replaced are the ram, hdd, dvd optical drive, and the case. Everything else has been replaced at some point. It's even still plugged into another socket outside of the room.
 
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Starting to sound like it's not a pc problem, but a house wiring issue. The single most common household wiring problem tends to be loose connections on the breakers, causing them to heat up and trip, or a loose neutral causing loss of power under load, restoring after load is removed. Have someone check out the panel connectivity, and the outlets you are using, just to rule out any possible external issues. If the house is good, then its a pc problem for sure.
 
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It very well could be the place I live. But im wondering why it took an entire year for the problem to start. ( wasn't doing this previously ) Could be because of the additional power consumption as you stated. I have added a graphics card, new power supply, and another case fan for cooling, which in total is feeding more. Not by much, but it may just be enough. What im starting to wonder is would a ups even help the issue? If indeed it is a wiring issue under load, the ups would keep the pc alive long enough for the restoration of the power. Thus allowing it to feed freely again. But this is just an assumption since I really dont know at this point. And yes I understand this thread is getting long in the tooth. It wasn't my intention for it to get this long. I selected what I thought was the best solution at the point, in which I probably should have held off for a week or two. Not to long after I selected it, I started to get the issue again. Only reason I hadn't posted sooner is because I've been out of town and away from the pc. I can try someone elses house but that doesn't guarantee the same problem will happen in the same amount of time. Some days it takes hours, other days it takes as little as 5 minutes. Shut off on me 3 times alone last night.
 
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Alternating Current (AC) vibrates to the tune of 50Hz or 60Hz, depending where you live. If the wires in your house panel are not tightened correctly, then over time, especially with constant usage, they shake loose. Same goes for the other end, the wires attached to the outlet itself. And then, of course is the outlet itself. Inside are small wafers which make contact with the prongs on the plug. These can also get worn, making for bad contact, which creates heat, which makes the wafers softer, which makes for a worse contact and so on. Loose wiring and old-worn outlets are the single biggest factors in unaccidental house fires. Do yourself a favor if this could be a concern. Get it checked out by someone who knows what they are doing, if nothing more than for peace of mind. If your outlets look old or worn, replace them.
 
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Well after a few full episodes, I've come to the conclusion officially that it's the socket/outlet. It shut off on me twice today, and what let me know officially it was the socket was, I had the Radio plugged into the same outlet, Radio shut off at the same time the pc did. And there was no sound coming through. But the radio flickered then went into demo mode, while the pc of course just shut down. So as for what you suggested, as well as a few other ppl Karadjgne, I wont be able to find someone to test the sockets, but that does let me know I need a UPS asap.
 
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Depending upon your house (age and quality of build), there can be many problems - such as wires that are frayed, wiring that isn't up to code, etc....If you have issues like you are describing - I would get an electrician in there ASAP to at least identify the problem. If you have frayed wiring, it could create a house fire.....

If you are renting - the landlord has to fix the problem. If you have home owner's insurance - they may pay for it.
 
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Im pretty sure if you're computer creates the surge on same board as the radio, the same thing would happen? This does not mean its your outlet...

After reading whole thread i honestly "feel" asthough its the motherboard.. Unless you got extremely unlucky and got 2 faulty psu's.
 
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It's either the physical outlet itself, which are cheap and easy to replace, the connection from the wires to the outlet which is free and easy to fix, or its the physical connection inside the panel box. 1 of the 3. If it's inside the panel, it will affect all the other outlets on that line, so if the pc is in a bedroom, lamps will flicker, alarm clock blink etc.
If it's #2, connection, then turn off the corresponding breaker, unscrew the outlet from the wall and inspect the wire ends for heat damage. If yes, then re-strip new ends and reconnect, if no then either tighten the screws down or if its the stab kind, cut off and strip and buy a new outlet cuz the old one is now junk. Same goes for #1, aged, worn, used outlets should be replaced.
Btw, since 1 outlet problem has been found, give serious thought to checking other outlets, especially ones that see high usage electrically (fridge, TV, bathrooms) or ones that see high usage physically (bathrooms, hallways)
 
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Seems that no matter which outlet I plug it into, eventually it will shut down. I tried getting an avr good for 1000 watts, I picked one up and plugged my computer power cord into it, I figured at the very least the avr would correct a voltage regulation problem, I figured the plug had an issue with dropping voltage the reason for the sudden shut offs. But after plugging up the avr, the avr didn't even catch anything and the pc shut down anyway. I got the Opti UPS SS2000 AVR. like I said which is supposed to be good for 1000watts, and since I only have a 600 watt psu, that should be enough just for the pc. I'm out of ideas here guys. The list is getting long for what I've tried and hadn't worked.

Here are the specs for the AVR:

Make/Model: OPTI-UPS AVR SS2000

Specifications:
Maximum Capacity(VA/W): 2000VA/1000Watts
Wave Form: Sine Wave
AC Input:
- Nominal Input Voltage: 120Vac
- Nominal Input Frequency: 50Hz or 60Hz Auto Sensing
- Input Voltage Range: Voltage Range +/- 15%
AC output:
- Nominal Output Voltage: 120Vac / 220Vac / 230Vac
- Output Voltage Regulation: Voltage Range +/- 5%
- Nominal Output Frequency: 50Hz or 60Hz Auto Sensing
- Number of Outlets:110Vac / 220Vac : 6 outlets (US); 230Vac : 4 outlets (German)
Efficiency: 95% above
AC Mode:
- High Voltage Transfer: 115 +/- 1V / 232 +/- 1V
- Low Voltage Transfer: 105 +/- 2V / 212 +/- 2V
Protection:
- Over Load: Manual return switch
Surge: 525 Joules(10/1000us)
AVR:
- Operation: Buck / Boost
- Component: Relay & Multi-Tap Transformer
- Operation Frequency: N.A.
Heat Sink: Heat Release Apertures
Environment:
- Temperature: 0°C ~ 40°C / 32°F~104°F
- Humidity: 0% ~ 95 % (Non condensing)
 
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