Computer won't post after circuit breaker tripped...

JBourke

Honorable
May 8, 2013
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10,630
Hi guys, this is kind of a long story...

About 3 months ago my computer wouldn't turn on after moving into a new apartment, I took it to a technician and he confirmed either the motherboard or the CPU was faulty. I figured this was probably normal since it was almost a 4 year old gigabyte motherboard. I replaced the motherboard and CPU and things have been running great for a few weeks until this morning.

I noticed that none of the outlets on the left side of my apartment were working, so I reset the breaker and plugged everything in. The minute I plugged my computer in the breaker tripped, now my computer won't post at all in any outlet in the apartment.

I am so frustrated and dumbfounded at this, I hope my new components aren't fried. I'll post my setup...

Asus Z87-Pro Motherboard
Intel i5-4670k
OCZ Modxstream Pro 700w
Gigabyte GTX 460 1gb
Hyper 212 Evo CPU cooler
Antec 300 Illusion Case
Samsung Spinpoint 500g HDD
Sony Optiarc Disk Drive
 
Solution
I would suspect the PSU.
Would recommend buying a cheap PSU tester, Disconnect ALL connectors from the PSU and plug into tester and try powering on, If it still trips circuit breaker - PSU is Bad, If it does power on then ?? does it pass the PSU test.

NOTE: passing a psu tester is NOT a 100% "good to go", just a warm fuzzy.
Your PSU is listed as a tier 3 PSU, But personally I've never bought a OCZ PSU and never would - they do have a few that are listed in tier 1 and 2.

And Yes if the PSU is bad it could have taken out any, and all, components connected to it.

PS - As a matter of course, I would have replaced the PSU when you replaced the other components.
I would suspect the PSU.
Would recommend buying a cheap PSU tester, Disconnect ALL connectors from the PSU and plug into tester and try powering on, If it still trips circuit breaker - PSU is Bad, If it does power on then ?? does it pass the PSU test.

NOTE: passing a psu tester is NOT a 100% "good to go", just a warm fuzzy.
Your PSU is listed as a tier 3 PSU, But personally I've never bought a OCZ PSU and never would - they do have a few that are listed in tier 1 and 2.

And Yes if the PSU is bad it could have taken out any, and all, components connected to it.

PS - As a matter of course, I would have replaced the PSU when you replaced the other components.
 
Solution
I brought it to a repair shop (as this seems out of the realm of my knowledge) and they were able to get the motherboard and fans on with a separate PSU, (got a d7 debug code on the asus motherboard) although the computer itself won't post (although it was just a quick test). Is this a good indication that my motherboard is fried? I know i'll get an answer regardless in a matter of days but I want to start researching different parts to get.

I'm thinking the PSU is fried and either the GPU or the motherboard...

Any PSU recommendations? I also now want to invest in a surge protector...
 
Really not going to try to 2nd guess status of MB ect - Requires checking.
On PSU, Your system, with a mild OC say upto 4.2, 4.4 Ghz and upto a 7850 gpu will be under 300 Watts.
My system: i5-2500K @ 4.2, w/7850 GPU, 12 gigs ram, 2 SSDs, 2 HDDs plus a Blu-ray burner is ONLY about 200 Watts.
@50 watts as measured at the wall outlet.
I only recommend Tier 3 and above, ig possible I go with tier 2.
Min PSU Silverstone 450W:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256063
or
Seasonic 430 W: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151074

Little more head room:, go with 500->600 (500/550 max, 600->650 Max if planning on Xfire or SLI w/2 gpus up thru 78xx series)
520 W Seasonic: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093
600W Silverstone: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256071

For other choices here is the "tier List": http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/323050.aspx

Added; (biopolar) reference Corsair - Yes they make some excellent PSUs, the TX and HX followed by the GS series. I have the corsair TX650 in one build. The CX is a tier 3 PSU which is in my "acceptable list", but personally tend to go with a higher quality. biopolar - I see you have the cx750 so please no offense.
 
Is there any ramifications for having too much wattage? I want to upgrade to a GTX 770 or a 760 (perhaps Volcanic Islands GPU when they arrive) in the future so I was thinking of getting a SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088. I don't plan on SLI or crossfire, but I do want to overclock my CPU and GPU.

I keep hearing Seasonic is an excellent PSU brand and I don't really want to mess around with a PSU that may be faulty in the future. I'm thinking the PSU caused my first motherboard to fry and possibly caused what is happening now.
 
'personal experience' bought a logitech 550 watt psu for first build. pc would shut down under load- replaced psu with corsair tx650 works bewautifully but when i began thinking of sli'ing a couple 770's i was forced to change once again. now i run a 1000w modular ocz 80+ gold psu . moral of the story is A) dont buy anything cheap and expect it to perform. B) and most important, make sure your psu will handle your current and future needs. i could have used the @250 ive spent to buy a fantastic cpu and still have some left for fun tickets.

gl
 

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