CPU 80-90°C - Liquid Cooling not working?

[Dreuxx]

When I purchased my PC, the people who built it only put one fan inside the case, and it's the hard drive fan. I do have an Asetek Liquid Cooling system, and I heard that it was supposed to help with the CPU.

This screenshot below shows what my CPU does after 25 minutes of playing Guild Wars 2:
http://prnt.sc/dnbdl3

Images of the case:
http://imgur.com/a/A8rv7

Why is it overheating? How can I help it stay down? Is my liquid cooling system broken? Do I need more fans? Let me know, because it's almost impossible to play any games for a long period of time. Also, this computer is a little over a week old.

 

[MeanMachine41]

If the system is still under Warranty, then the builder should be your first port of call.
Your CPU at 92C consistently will degrade quickly and that's irreversible.

You need to have your TIM replaced and need more case fans added for a better air flow.

The AIO Water Cooler looks like a 550LC or similar which should be sufficient for i7 6700K at 4GHz.
Do not continue using your system at those temps. If the system is out of Warranty then we can guide you on how to rectify the problem.

 

[nukemaster]

Can you confirm the pump is connected to a header that does NOT control fan speed?(they stall pretty easy at low voltage) Is the fan on the radiator also turning(you should have a fan on that radiator. I can not see it, but maybe it is on the back side of it.).

90 is VERY toasty for any modern cpu.

 

[Ecky]

Intel allows these same CPUs to run at 90-95c in laptops and they have no issues with degradation or longevity. It's pretty close to throttling point, and there's nothing wrong with some healthy caution, but I'd like to put forth the idea that we really have no evidence that these temperatures will have any measurable negative effect on the CPU's effective lifespan.

 

[nukemaster]

I would agree with older cpu generations being very tollerating of high heat. My friend ran a Core2 system in throttling for months on end with no noticeable degrading. It still works to this day as far as I know. I am not sure about new ones, but I guess Intel would set a lower throttle point if they though it would damage it too bad.

Pump failures are all too often on all in one units(even without a fan I am not sure if GW2 will get a cpu to 90c). GW2 is not that multi threaded and will never load all cores to the max.

If you can get a good look at that pump to ensure it is powered and the port it uses does not attempt to slow it down It may help track this issue down. If the pump connects to the board you can monitor the speed of it as well(good way to ensure it is in fact turning.).

 

[Elysian890]

Radiator should be mounted on the top and not on the rear. Anyway, your temps are insane, is the pump properly connected and working?

 

[Dreuxx]

Can you confirm the pump is connected to a header that does NOT control fan speed?(they stall pretty easy at low voltage) Is the fan on the radiator also turning(you should have a fan on that radiator. I can not see it, but maybe it is on the back side of it.).

90 is VERY toasty for any modern cpu.

If I'm not mistaken, there is no fan on the radiator. No air is coming out of the grid, and the only fan I can see in the case is the hard drive fan. And how could I confirm the pump thing? I'm not too great with this type of stuff.

 

[Dreuxx]

Radiator should be mounted on the top and not on the rear. Anyway, your temps are insane, is the pump properly connected and working?

I hear the liquid inside the cooler flowing every now and then, but I'm not sure if that techically means that it's working and that it's on. How can I be sure everything is connected properly? I'm not great with this type of stuff.
I'm just very worried, because GW2 is not the only game that does this. Any game I play, the CPU temps will skyrocket.

 

[Dreuxx]

No fans are being shown on the CPU:
http://prntscr.com/dob2v3

One fan seems to be on the GTX 1060, but they're not running, and they never run in general.
http://prntscr.com/dob34h

 

[Ecky]

That's a serious oversight on the builder's part.

Take the cover off and feel the radiator - is it hot to the touch?

 

[Dreuxx]

That's a serious oversight on the builder's part.

Take the cover off and feel the radiator - is it hot to the touch?

I'm currently unable to get inside the PC, but from the outside, no air is coming out, and it's hot.

 

[Ecky]

Take it back, have them fix it, or add more fans yourself. You definitely need a fan on the radiator.

 

[Dreuxx]

Take it back, have them fix it, or add more fans yourself. You definitely need a fan on the radiator.

This is the best image I can get.
It appears that there IS a fan in there, but it refuses to run for some reason.
http://imgur.com/a/PFU3D

 

[Karadjgne]

From the looks of those pics, nothing is hooked up. You can see the pump 3 wire sitting on top of the gpu. From that pic, the fan (it's a decent Phanteks at least) is installed correctly for a pull design, which is fine on lower speeds. But it needs to be installed to cpu_fan header and the pump needs to be on cpu_aux or a sys_fan header. Check the bios to make sure that there is actual fan control and the pump is set to run 100% all the time.

There is 0 options for help on this until you get that cover off the case and actually finish the build with fans. Considering the lackluster effort put into the build, I'd remove the pump and replace the paste. No telling just what a crap job was done. I play GW2 on a 3570k @4.3GHz OC on a h55 aio with a 660ti that's cranked and never see over 55°C no matter how long I play. Those temps of yours are atrocious, whomever built it and sold it to you should get a beat down.

 

[Dreuxx]

From the looks of those pics, nothing is hooked up. You can see the pump 3 wire sitting on top of the gpu. From the screw holes, it looks like there is no fan at all on the radiator, which means that H55/60? is absolutely useless.

There is 0 options for help on this until you get that cover off the case and actually finish the build with fans. Considering the lackluster effort put into the build, I'd remove the pump and replace the paste. No telling just what a crap job was done. I play GW2 on a 3570k @4.3GHz OC on a h55 aio with a 660ti that's cranked and never see over 55°C no matter how long I play. Those temps of yours are atrocious, whomever built it and sold it to you should get a beat down.

I was recommended to use paste by a friend. I may try it out.
I'm a complete amateur at this stuff, so I'm not sure how to hook any of this up.

 

[Karadjgne]

Edited post, might wanna re-read.

 

[Dreuxx]

Edited post, might wanna re-read.

I made this quick video. This may show a little more, but I highly doubt it.
Just in case: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=245vICvI028

 

[Karadjgne]

You are right, no help at all. Close up pictures of exactly where that 3 wire attached to the big black hockey puck goes to on the mobo, and if you look at that video closely, in the very top right corner you'll see a wire sticking out from behind the radiator. Close up Pic of where that goes on the mobo. Open up bios, find the fan settings, pic. If you have fan control software loaded, pic if the settings

 

[Dreuxx]

You are right, no help at all. Close up pictures of exactly where that 3 wire attached to the big black hockey puck goes to on the mobo, and if you look at that video closely, in the very top right corner you'll see a wire sticking out from behind the radiator. Close up Pic of where that goes on the mobo. Open up bios, find the fan settings, pic. If you have fan control software loaded, pic if the settings

I believe that I've come to a conclusion that the fan on the radiator is actually faulty.
I've tried unplugging it from the motherboard, checking the bios and everything.
Nothing is working, so I believe the fan itself is faulty.

 

[Elysian890]

the big black hockey puck

Lovely description :lol:

Now going back to the topic, correct me if i'm wrong but I think the pump should be connected to the CPU_FAN header and the fan itself to the SYS_FAN header
Whoever built that is a complete amateur, cables are a mess, I bet they haven't even double checked all of the parts before selling it to the user, because you know, "who cares if the radiator fan isn't working?"

ps
[video="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pykvwv5vcY"][/video]

notice: he doesn't likes push-pull config because it looks too "thick"

 

[nukemaster]

Well, No fan seems to be your issue.

You can swap it for another fan or even mount the front fan on the radiator, but they should have checked this BEFORE shipping a system. If you have warranty, it may be worth looking into that first.

As for back or top of the case, I have no seen issues with either.

Because they have so many models of all in one. I can not give more detail. All the all in one units I have used would show pump speed in the bios/hardware monitoring software(if connected to the board).

Hearing liquid is a good sign. At least that means the pump should be plugged in.

If you can get internal images it may help.

 

[Karadjgne]

Corsair recommends plugging the pump into cpu_fan header for the simple reason that they figure the pump could fail before the fan. If the pump fails, it'll register 0 rpm, thereby setting off the cpu cooler alarm and either shutting the pc down or not allowing it to boot. Cpu_fan header MUST be populated by a working rpm component. However, this also means that the cpu fan must be plugged into a sys_fan header, so is subject to case temps, which are far below cpu temps, so generally the fan runs 100% and has no real control as case temps are usually pretty stable in a clc cooled case, but cpu temps can vary greatly. I've found that the convenience far outweighs any safety concerns and use the pump on a cpu_aux or sys_fan header and the rad fan on cpu_fan header, thereby getting accurate control by pwm fan. I also use Realtemp, which has a output in the start bar, so always see the temp of hottest core. For those with Asus FanXpert, this is definitely the way to set up an aio as that program has alarms that can be set so if the pump lowers speed, alarm goes off.

It's a personal choice really,, but Corsair's concerns over pump failures don't mesh with my concerns of noise and convenience.

 

[nukemaster]

CPU headers also tend to be PWM so the pump will run full blast(as would any 3 pin fan if the board can not switch to voltage control mode). Some pumps even get power from the power supply(Mostly CoolIT designed units) and use the header for rpm readings only.

I have been pretty luck with most boards working fine with all on ones on system headers(limited, but acceptable fan speed control).

 

[_HP_ERSON]

Do you have thermal Compound On Your MotherBoard?

 

[Mikel_4]

■ To confirm AIO faulty, get cheap stock cooler, if stock cooler perform better than your current AIO, do these first.
■ Redo thermal grease appliance, or get arctic MX4 TIM if you don't have it yet.
■ Firmly secure its locking.
■ Use better fan, or do push-pull configuration, if you make that as intake you can try top mounting, if it nudges motherboard revert to rear mounting and add dust filter.
■ If after all that still showing 90C, RMA that