CPU Fan speed going crazy

[Anthony1025]

Motherboard : ASRock m3A770DE
CPU : AMD Phenom II X4 955e @ 3.2 Ghz
RAM : 8GBs of DDR3 RAM
Video Card : NVIDIA Geforce GTX 560

I just bought a new power supply today(GS800watt Corsair). My dad and I put it together earlier today and had no problems. All of a sudden an hour ago my CPU fan speed increased to 5000+ RPMs and the noise is frustrating. The idle temp rose from 30C to about 45-50C now ever since this happened. It use to be that my fan speeds were at 2000-3000RPMS and the idle temp was much lower. I have no idea what could have changed it. Maybe the power supply...

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me.

 

[Anthony1025]

that can happen because the cpu is being used to open a new Program BUT it should go below 4%. are you sure that that is the lowest the CPU goes for utilization?

I opened the task manager and it showed I have about 20 processes in the chart(5 of those are Google Chrome tasks), but it says I have 50 processes at the bottom left. My usage fluctuates from anywhere to 0 to 10%.

then this may not help then. but please read my edit to make sure you don't miss what i already mentioned.

When I opened the task manager and closed all programs, my cpu usage stayed at 0%. When I open start moving my mouse the only tasks that increase my usage was the desktop, task manager, and explorer. It only increased to about 2 or 3% though. I just have a question. When I click on 'show processes from all users' why are there 50 processes in the list using CPU memory? Are they suppose to be running in the background?

I'm not sure if you read earlier, but I already resolved my CPU fan speed problem by doing what you said to do in the BIOS. Should I still be concerned about my usage in the task manager even though my temps and RPMs have returned to normal?

If all has returned to normal there is no need for concern. then you solution has been found an i Must have missed the fact you said you fixed it. Glad we could help.

Well, sadly after posting that I realized that my issue might not be solved. I'll post what I said to the other guy;

Okay, let's see, this will be a long post haha. I manually lowered my fans speed and that is working perfectly right now. My IDLE cpu fan rpm's are at 3000 and my temps are at 39C. That's somewhat cool and quiet.

Now here's where the problem starts again. I just tested to see how hot cpu would get and how fast my fan would spin while gaming. Within gaming for 10 minutes my cpu temps reach 60c and my fan rpm's hit over 6000, which is way too much in my opinion. It didn't do that until I bought this power supply ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... ).

A couple days ago I was gaming for about 30 minutes and my cpu temps were 50-58c and my rpm's were a lot lower;causing NO noise issues at all. I was using a really poor thermaltake power supply at the time and that's why I bought the new corsair one today. But like I said earlier ever since I bought the new power supply the fan noise and speeds on my cpu are have become an issue. I'm not sure if it's the power supply causing this or if the stock cooler was knocked out of place while trying to install the corsair psu. Also, I noticed that there is no exhaust coming from the back of my power supply. I'm not sure if that's normal. On the newegg page, it says it doesn't spin until it needs to so maybe that's why it has no exhaust. btw sorry for this long post, I'm just feeling nervous.

 

[bgunner]

Ahh the way to test this is remove the side panel of the tower and literally stick your head next to it when stressing the system to find out. that psu may be quiet while idle but when stressed it will make some noise but how much, you will have to say as I have no experience with that exact psu. Try this, download if you don't already have it, OCCT and run the Power supply test this stresses the hole system and you can stick your head near the case and find out with out worrying about a game to draw the power.

 

[Anthony1025]

Ahh the way to test this is remove the side panel of the tower and literally stick your head next to it when stressing the system to find out. that psu may be quiet while idle but when stressed it will make some noise but how much, you will have to say as I have no experience with that exact psu. Try this, download if you don't already have it, OCCT and run the Power supply test this stresses the hole system and you can stick your head near the case and find out with out worrying about a game to draw the power.

How long should I test the power supply for?

 

[marshal11]

That's a high quality PSU. And even if it was a poor quality PSU it would cause 0 interference with fan speeds. What you're experiencing is definitely strange though. Maybe you should try resetting your BIOS to default and updating it if you can. Plus, I don't understand why you went with a 800W PSU. you would be fine with a 400W PSU and that's just wasting power. Because your PC will only consuming about 300W when EVERYTHING is at complete full load (which NEVER happens) your PSU is always at much less than half load which means there is no reason for the fan to run. You could run triple SLI GTX 680s with that PSU. Do you still have the old PSU? if so, just open your side panel and hook it up to the old PSU without removing your other one so you don't have to route the cables all over again. Just place the old PSU beside your case and hook everything up and try it. Though there is absolutely no relation between the PSU and how the BIOS controls the fan speeds but just to confirm the new PSU isn't causing a extremely rare and wonky issue, try the old PSU again.

 

[bgunner]

Ahh the way to test this is remove the side panel of the tower and literally stick your head next to it when stressing the system to find out. that psu may be quiet while idle but when stressed it will make some noise but how much, you will have to say as I have no experience with that exact psu. Try this, download if you don't already have it, OCCT and run the Power supply test this stresses the hole system and you can stick your head near the case and find out with out worrying about a game to draw the power.

How long should I test the power supply for?

you only need to test for as long as it takes for the fans to speed up and make noise. this is not to stress the system but to put a load on it so the fans can speed up so you can hear which one is making the noise. Chances are its the CPU fan being stock they can get very loud, like someone already mentioned, and are very annoying when they speed up. But just to make sure do this test to make sure the fan on the Power supply is not overly noisy nor bad for some odd reason.

 

[Anthony1025]

That's a high quality PSU. And even if it was a poor quality PSU it would cause 0 interference with fan speeds. What you're experiencing is definitely strange though. Maybe you should try resetting your BIOS to default and updating it if you can. Plus, I don't understand why you went with a 800W PSU. you would be fine with a 400W PSU and that's just wasting power. Because your PC will only consuming about 300W when EVERYTHING is at complete full load (which NEVER happens) your PSU is always at much less than half load which means there is no reason for the fan to run. You could run triple SLI GTX 680s with that PSU. Do you still have the old PSU? if so, just open your side panel and hook it up to the old PSU without removing your other one so you don't have to route the cables all over again. Just place the old PSU beside your case and hook everything up and try it. Though there is absolutely no relation between the PSU and how the BIOS controls the fan speeds but just to confirm the new PSU isn't causing a extremely rare and wonky issue, try the old PSU again.

http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/323050.aspx
My old power supply is in tier 5 and is said to be avoided at all times. (Thermaltake TR2.) Before I try any of the things you recommended I'll try to use OCCT to test my power supply.

 

[bgunner]

That's a high quality PSU. And even if it was a poor quality PSU it would cause 0 interference with fan speeds. What you're experiencing is definitely strange though. Maybe you should try resetting your BIOS to default and updating it if you can. Plus, I don't understand why you went with a 800W PSU. you would be fine with a 400W PSU and that's just wasting power. Because your PC will only consuming about 300W when EVERYTHING is at complete full load (which NEVER happens) your PSU is always at much less than half load which means there is no reason for the fan to run. You could run triple SLI GTX 680s with that PSU. Do you still have the old PSU? if so, just open your side panel and hook it up to the old PSU without removing your other one so you don't have to route the cables all over again. Just place the old PSU beside your case and hook everything up and try it. Though there is absolutely no relation between the PSU and how the BIOS controls the fan speeds but just to confirm the new PSU isn't causing a extremely rare and wonky issue, try the old PSU again.

http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/323050.aspx
My old power supply is in tier 5 and is said to be avoided at all times. (Thermaltake TR2.) Before I try any of the things you recommended I'll try to use OCCT to test my power supply.

Please don't misunderstand me. The reason I mentioned what I did is not to test the PSU per say but to put a load on it to make that fan spin so you can hear if the fan on the PSU is bad or making excessive noise.

 

[Anthony1025]

That's a high quality PSU. And even if it was a poor quality PSU it would cause 0 interference with fan speeds. What you're experiencing is definitely strange though. Maybe you should try resetting your BIOS to default and updating it if you can. Plus, I don't understand why you went with a 800W PSU. you would be fine with a 400W PSU and that's just wasting power. Because your PC will only consuming about 300W when EVERYTHING is at complete full load (which NEVER happens) your PSU is always at much less than half load which means there is no reason for the fan to run. You could run triple SLI GTX 680s with that PSU. Do you still have the old PSU? if so, just open your side panel and hook it up to the old PSU without removing your other one so you don't have to route the cables all over again. Just place the old PSU beside your case and hook everything up and try it. Though there is absolutely no relation between the PSU and how the BIOS controls the fan speeds but just to confirm the new PSU isn't causing a extremely rare and wonky issue, try the old PSU again.

http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/323050.aspx
My old power supply is in tier 5 and is said to be avoided at all times. (Thermaltake TR2.) Before I try any of the things you recommended I'll try to use OCCT to test my power supply.

Please don't misunderstand me. The reason I mentioned what I did is not to test the PSU per say but to put a load on it to make that fan spin so you can hear if the fan on the PSU is bad or making excessive noise.

Oh, ok. I get you. I'm a little confused on how this program works though.
I'm on the Power Supply section, but I'm not sure to set it to Automatic or Infinite,the duration, and idle periods.

 

[bgunner]

for what you want to do just run it nothing needs to be set.

automatic is for you to set how long the program will run and shut itself off
infinite will run till you manually stop it
Idle time is how long before and/or after the program will keep monitoring the system. it has a monitoring system that will log a bunch of info during the run period.

 

[Anthony1025]

for what you want to do just run it nothing needs to be set.

automatic is for you to set how long the program will run and shut itself off
infinite will run till you manually stop it
Idle time is how long before and/or after the program will keep monitoring the system. it has a monitoring system that will log a bunch of info during the run period.

I ran the test for about 1 minute and my CPU temps rose to 68c and my rpm's increased to 5000. From what I was hearing, it was the CPU making the noise because of the high rpm's. I'm guessing I have no choice but to by a new aftermarket cooler and thermal pasting. I still don't understand how this just randomly became an issue.

 

[Anthony1025]

Hahahaha! Buddy... AS5 is outdated. it has a curing time and will turn into cement after long use. It's ancient technology now. Almost anything is better than artic silver 5 now. MX-4 is usually performs 5c lower, much easier to spread, works instantly (no curing time) and will last forever unlike that AS5 crap. Look up performance charts and forums. It's outdated.

If it spreads easier, than it is like water. yes there maybe curing time but it is a tried and tested TIM and is does not need a card to spread it.

EDIT ok i did what you asked and found this. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/266009-29-thermal-paste

Edit again then i found this where the MX 4 is below the silver 5 http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5

That HardwareSecrets website has false results. I've personally tested AS5, NT-H1, Coolermaster and MX-4 using the exact same amount using the same spreading method and AS5 came in last place, 2c higher above the Coolermaster stuff you get with a Hyper212+. I tested again with AS5 to make sure I didn't make a mistake mounting it and the temp was a degree higher the second time. That stuff is garbage. Ask anyone who knows their stuff, including me.

MX-4 is one of the best spreading thermal pastes around. It's not too thick or too thin like the previous MX-3 (it was like water). Even MX-2 kicked AS5's ass. MX-4 is also non-conductive because it's not made out of silver like AS5.

To the OP: Manually lowering the fan speeds will work perfectly for now just make sure your temps stay below 70c. I personally use coretemp in my Win7 taskbar to monitor temps 24/7. Also, what case do you have so I can find you a good small cooler if you do wish to upgrade in the future? You really should because the Phenom II x4s are fun to OC and you won't be able to do that much on the stock cooler. Mainly because the fan noise will drive you insane hahaha.

Not sure if the offer to recommend a cpu cooler for my case is still there, but here's my case
Master Cooler 310 (18.40" x 7.50" x 17.20") ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119203 )

 

[marshal11]

Apparently the 212+ fits in that case... http://www.overclock.net/t/741845/cooler-master-elite-310-hyper-212-plus But that one guy had trouble so if you're worried, try this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103177 It comes with thermal paste as well (it's pretty decent, better than the AS5 crap the other guy recommended) and this should give you lower temps as well. The max fan speed is 1600RPM so even at full speed it should still be quieter than yours at medium speed.

 

[bgunner]

Apparently the 212+ fits in that case... http://www.overclock.net/t/741845/cooler-master-elite-310-hyper-212-plus But that one guy had trouble so if you're worried, try this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103177 It comes with thermal paste as well (it's pretty decent, better than the AS5 crap the other guy recommended) and this should give you lower temps as well. The max fan speed is 1600RPM so even at full speed it should still be quieter than yours at medium speed.

I would not Overclock with that slim cooler ever though. It will not dissipate the heat generated by overclocking. For some reason I can't seem to find the the dimensions for cooler that will fit that case. Many of the Cooler Master cases have it in the specs but this one does not.

EDIT: also the Only reason his Hyper 212 did not fit was because of the side fan he had mounted on the panel. If you do not have a side fan Go with the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO and not the 212+. Here is the reason why. The design of the 212+'s contact plate alows for large gaps between the heat pipes and the mounting surface. This requires much more Care when applying the thermal paste. You actually need to fill in the crevices on the cooler in order to insure a proper contact to the CPU. The 212 EVO on the other hand changed this and a few minor other things and makes it a lot easier to just put a grain of rice/pea size dab of paste on the CPU and be done with it. Its much easier for some one that has not experienced the techniques on how to do it. Both the 212 versions come with its own thermal paste so no need to purchase any extra as what they give is enough to do 3 cooler mounts unless you get the 212+ then just 1

 

[Anthony1025]

Apparently the 212+ fits in that case... http://www.overclock.net/t/741845/cooler-master-elite-310-hyper-212-plus But that one guy had trouble so if you're worried, try this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103177 It comes with thermal paste as well (it's pretty decent, better than the AS5 crap the other guy recommended) and this should give you lower temps as well. The max fan speed is 1600RPM so even at full speed it should still be quieter than yours at medium speed.

I would not Overclock with that slim cooler ever though. It will not dissipate the heat generated by overclocking. For some reason I can't seem to find the the dimensions for cooler that will fit that case. Many of the Cooler Master cases have it in the specs but this one does not.

EDIT: also the Only reason his Hyper 212 did not fit was because of the side fan he had mounted on the panel. If you do not have a side fan Go with the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO and not the 212+. Here is the reason why. The design of the 212+'s contact plate alows for large gaps between the heat pipes and the mounting surface. This requires much more Care when applying the thermal paste. You actually need to fill in the crevices on the cooler in order to insure a proper contact to the CPU. The 212 EVO on the other hand changed this and a few minor other things and makes it a lot easier to just put a grain of rice/pea size dab of paste on the CPU and be done with it. Its much easier for some one that has not experienced the techniques on how to do it. Both the 212 versions come with its own thermal paste so no need to purchase any extra as what they give is enough to do 3 cooler mounts unless you get the 212+ then just 1

Thanks.