Question CPU overheating after moving?

Oct 31, 2023
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Hello,
So I’ve built my pc more than 2 years ago, and everything has been good since then until 2 days ago. I have moved to a new house and while moving my PC in the car it stayed for around 4-5 hours in the car in a freezing temperature (around -7 Celsius). Now when I turn on the PC, the CPU keeps over heating. It turned itself off 2 times after the CPU temp reached 113C while gaming. And it's reaching 100C while idle. It takes around 20 min to reach those temps. Not right away.

I wonder if leaving it in the freezing temps caused this to happen. Since Im not sure what else could it be. And what could have gone wrong?
All fans are still working and the AIO rpm is around 3300 in the bios.
Could be that the AIO died somehow in the cold? Even though rpm is working? Or thermal paste froze?

AIO is Lian Li Galahad 360
CPU is ryzen 5 5600x
 
You almost certainly have an air bubble in the system.

Power on the system and then tilt the WHOLE case back, about as far as you safely can, for about twenty seconds, then slowly return it to it's normal position.

Then lean it all the way to the left until it is pretty well laying flat on it's left side, for a few seconds, and then slowly move it back to upright. Do the same for the right, and then if possible, figure out a way to do the same leaning it all the way towards the front. The idea here is that moving it it probably was put into a situation where it was not in a normal position and an air bubble has likely become lodged somewhere, usually the pump but we won't necessarily assume anything here, and is causing the equivalent of a vapor lock.

Try it.

Also, it's helpful to know exactly where the radiator is installed and how the lines are running to the radiator.

If you've had this for a while, and you've not done so before, watching this would be a very good idea.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbGomv195sk
 
I will definitely watch the video to see if it helps.
I have an O11D case. The radiator is a 360mm mounted on the side fans (like the ones beside the MB). The tubes coming out of the pump are in the rams direction. And the radiator tubes are in the upside.
Do you think that removing the block, reapplying the thermal paste and putting it back might help?
Also, is the way you've mentioned gonna just move the bubble to another place? Can it go back and cause the problem again?
Thank you.
 
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ALL AIO systems have some amount of air in them. It is simply inevitable due to the way they are designed. Plus, ALL "closed" or even open loops, including those in automotive radiators, PC coolers and industrial applications experience some amount of cavitation where there is loss of fluid over time from minuscule leaks that evaporate and are never seen, or condensation, or microscopic porosity of the lines or other components. So they all basically have, or will have, some amount of air in them. Under normal circumstances that air resides in the radiator, which is where you want it, as it generally doesn't affect flow if the orientation is correct which is why I posted the link to that bit by Steve at GamersNexus. But sometimes when systems get moved that air bubble manages to travel to the pump and THEN it causes grief because then you basically get a vapor lock, kind of, where the pump can't pump anything because there is air and the water on both sides of that bubble resists it's movement away from the pump because it's "trapped" there.

Rocking the system to the back, front and side to side, WHILE the system is running, can in many cases force that bubble to leave the pump area and make it's way back where it belongs at the top of the radiator.

There are other possibilities as well. If you've had this for quite some time it's possible there has been growth inside the system and sometimes moving the system around will dislodge some of that growth which then makes its way to the pump/water block where there are very small passages and sometimes that growth can then get caught there, and begin to accumulate other growth until you start having a fully blocked orifice. Now, that is something that usually takes a bit of time unless there was already a LOT of bacterial growth in there, so to go from working fine to not working fine, in such short time, would not seem to meet this particular scenarios requirements but anything is possible I guess. It's also possible that it's simply a matter of the pump took a crap.

You can still get a decent RPM and not actually be moving anything, just like on any pump, if the impeller has broken so that the motor is turning the pump shaft but the impeller is not actually moving anything along in the loop.