Question CPU running hot at idle, AIO still running

[cbrgrn]

Hey all, I'm sitting here with fans running pretty high as my CPU temp is idling at 72-78 C. This started a week ago, didn't do anything different to my PC other than turn it off instead of leaving it on overnight. When turning my PC on the CPU went up to 100+ degrees Celsius and it forced a shut down. This happened a couple more times. I tried looking into bios but I'm not too savvy and ended up not doing anything. I was able to boot the pc up after this and eventually it started idling at 40-50 C as usual. More recently I've left the pc on and now the idle temp is creeping up to its current value. It dips down to 60ish every 5 ish mins. But this is all at idle. The clock speed is around 3599 MHz.

I rarely use this CPU for things aside from work these days but I did start playing Lethal company a couple weeks back, that's the only significant thing that may put a load.

My AIO pump is variable, i know i've read to keep it at a set value but it's been running fine for the past 2.5 years that I've had this build. Currently its a 3400RPM. The AIO itself is pretty warm, the top pipe is warmer than the bottom pipe. Any ideas? Other unusual high temps that have been picked up by HWinfo include 'package, CCD #0 and CCD #1
I'd be happy to provide more info. Thanks!


PC specs:
CPU: AMD 5950X
AIO cooler: EK-AIO Elite 360
Motherboard: MSI MPG B550 gaming carbon wifi atx am4
RAM: G.Skill trident Z royal 8gb x 4
Storage: Samsung 980 pro 1 tb M.2-2280 NVME SSD
GPU EVGA RTX 3080
Power MSI MPG A-GF 850W 80+

 

[Darkbreeze]

Is yours the EK AIO Basic or D-RGB? Where is your AIO installed and if it's installed in the front of your case are the hoses going to the top or bottom of the radiator?

 

[TerryLaze]

Other unusual high temps that have been picked up by HWinfo include 'package, CCD #0 and CCD #1

Those are the two core clusters, so basically your CPU temp.
You have to describe your AIO installation, even better upload a few good pics you can use imgurl if you don't know any image uploader sites, if the pump and or radiator isn't in the right place it can let air bubbles go through the pump and mess it up pretty quick, we have to see if that is an possibility for your setup.

 

[cbrgrn]

Those are the two core clusters, so basically your CPU temp.
You have to describe your AIO installation, even better upload a few good pics you can use imgurl if you don't know any image uploader sites, if the pump and or radiator isn't in the right place it can let air bubbles go through the pump and mess it up pretty quick, we have to see if that is an possibility for your setup.

Thanks for replying both of y’all. I believe my aio is set up upside down iirc, but that’s the only way it fit the build. I was building this based off something i saw in pcpartpicker…

 

[cbrgrn]

Is yours the EK AIO Basic or D-RGB? Where is your AIO installed and if it's installed in the front of your case are the hoses going to the top or bottom of the radiator?

It’s the d-rbg, more specifically ek aio elite aurum 360 d-rbg. It’s installed at the front of my case with the hoses to the top. I put some pics up above

 

[bill001g]

You have it installed correctly. If there was air it will be in the top of the rad not your pump.

It would be really nice if there was some way to see the flow rate on a AIO. If it even had a little spinner like old style water meters do it would be so nice.

My guess is the pump is starting to fail or there is blockage internal to the cpu block. I would do the standard remove and repaste the cooler. Is the cooler under a warranty yet.

You might just consider replacing the cooler with a air cooler. Most modern air coolers can easily cool pretty much anything until you get to a 14900k that is running unlimited. There are many that are recommended in reviews you can get for under $50.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Since these came out in 2020 and they have a five year warranty, it HAS to still be under warranty so long as you have access to the purchase invoice, receipt or registration information. I would RMA the unit as it sounds to me as though the pump is either getting weak or there has been been a restriction to flow created due to bacterial growth in the loop. It could also be a result of a loss of coolant due to permeation if you've had the loop for three years now. Either way and in ANY case, if the problem is the cooler itself, it should be warrantable and there is probably nothing you can do to fix it anyhow.

I would go into the BIOS and take a look at the fan header the pump is connected to, and you will need to look physically at the wiring from the pump to the board to determine this if you are unsure, to verify that it is in fact running and you are right, it is NOT supposed to be configured for speed control. It should be running at 100% speed or at least at no less than 80% speed at all times regardless of temperature. Especially if you are having cooling problems. It does not matter if it ran fine for two years. You can run your car on bad gas for a while too but eventually you will start seeing problems, whether sooner or later, as carbon deposits begin building up on valves, seats, pistons and injectors become varnished. The fact that it worked fine before makes no difference once it no longer does. Everything that ever worked right, worked right, until it didn't.

 

[TerryLaze]

You have it installed correctly. If there was air it will be in the top of the rad not your pump.

Is it? The air bubbles would gather right where the hoses are.

 

[bill001g]

Is it? The air bubbles would gather right where the hoses are.

To me the top of the radiator looks about a inch or so higher than the pump body. The air should always work its way to the highest point.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Actually, it's NOT installed correctly, and there's a really good chance this is why you're seeing early failure.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbGomv195sk