Question CPU sits at 94 celsius at bios! How do I fix this?

Aug 7, 2019
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Okay so i've been having problems with my PC lately where it keeps shutting down after a recent power outtage. I finally checked the temperature of the CPU in the bios, and in the BIOS the temperature rapidly climbs up until it sits at a steady 94 celsius.

I'm not quite sure what to do about this either.

I've dusted out the PC case several times trying to get as much dust as possible out of there. I reapplied a new coating of thermal paste on the CPU itself. And I tried two different fans that I have on me, my stock Intel CPU fan and my C7 Cyrorig fan, neither of which seem to help, though for some reason the Intel fan does a bit better.

Is there something I can do to fix this? Or is it probably some faulty hardware that needs to be replaced? This is my current build; https://pcpartpicker.com/list/zYjTLk
 
Did you get the coating right? The issue seems similar to cases where there is little contact between CPU and the cooler.

However a power outage may cause voltages spikes on main, and therefore kill the PSU. Or crack it just so hard that it manage to run for a while before gives up due to internal temperature rising.
 
Aug 7, 2019
12
0
10
Did you get the coating right? The issue seems similar to cases where there is little contact between CPU and the cooler.

However a power outage may cause voltages spikes on main, and therefore kill the PSU. Or crack it just so hard that it manage to run for a while before gives up due to internal temperature rising.
Okay I reapplied a new coating of thermal paste doing it the way I see in a video (And not spreading it with a cotton swab which is how I thought it was supposed to be done... I'm not sure how stupid I am to think that, for some reason I remember reading years ago that's how you do it!) and now it's sitting at around 54-56 at BIOS.
Not sure if this will stop the crashing i've been getting, but fingers crossed hoping it works!!!
 

Karadjgne

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The only time a q-tip is used is during the cleaning, to help the isopropyl alcohol break up the old paste residue. After that, use slightly dampened (not soaked) coffee filters to polish off the rest. Same for the heatsink base. You'll clean them until the filter is barely discolored by the IHS/base.

After that dries, 1 small blob (the size of a small pea or large grain of rice) in the center of the psu, place the heatsink straight down with a little wiggle side-to side to help spread the paste, and fasten the cooler as proscribed by instructions.

Without a good cleaning, the new paste just becomes filling. Sandwiched between the old gunk filling the micro-cracks, pits and scratches on the IHS and cooler base.

The Intel pushpins are a common failure point after several removals. They wear, break, loosen up, don't seat right, so higher than expected temps are common.

The C7 is a low profile cooler, designed for minimal space occupancy at maximum ability. Unfortunately, it's a low profile cooler, and when it comes to heat dissipation, surface area is king, something low profile heatsinks are vastly short on. It's honestly not all that much better than the Intel stock cooler, just has the advantage of being slimmer.
 
Aug 7, 2019
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Unfortunately, while my CPU definitely was overheating before, it seems that wasn't why my PC was shutting off as the problem still persists despite me monitoring the CPU temperature.
Maybe the motherboard or the PSU was shorted because of the power outage and is causing this :(
 

Karadjgne

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That's a possibility. Although a slim one. You put AC voltages into the psu directly, which through a series of coils and caps changes that AC to 12v, 5v, 3.3v DC voltages. That's if it's running. If it's off, that AC voltage would have to go entirely through the psu to hit the mobo.

I guess it can happen, in a lightning strike, but seriously doubtful that your pc was affected and not your TV or any other electronics that were also plugged in.

Funky psu is far more likely than fried mobo.

I'd start by doing a bios reset by shorting the cmos tabs (procedure in your user manual for your board), updating any and all motherboard chipset drivers from mobo website, doing a good clean of the pc with ccleaner, also registry tool in ccleaner.
That'll clean up any crap in temp files/folders and remove any orphans or associated links to crap. Do a malwarebytes clean, anti-virus check (they aren't the same thing), clean install gpu drivers.

I'd also (win key + X), Windows Command Prompt (Admin) , cd\ (enter), SFC /SCANNOW (enter). If there's any corrupted/broken system files, that'll find/repair them.

That'll start you out as fresh and clean and optimised a pc as possible, barring a fresh clean reinstall of windows itself. If that issue persists, only then would I start looking at hardware, with psu #1 culprit, followed by ram then gpu.
 
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Aug 7, 2019
12
0
10
That's a possibility. Although a slim one. You put AC voltages into the psu directly, which through a series of coils and caps changes that AC to 12v, 5v, 3.3v DC voltages. That's if it's running. If it's off, that AC voltage would have to go entirely through the psu to hit the mobo.

I guess it can happen, in a lightning strike, but seriously doubtful that your pc was affected and not your TV or any other electronics that were also plugged in.

Funky psu is far more likely than fried mobo.

I'd start by doing a bios reset by shorting the cmos tabs (procedure in your user manual for your board), updating any and all motherboard chipset drivers from mobo website, doing a good clean of the pc with ccleaner, also registry tool in ccleaner.
That'll clean up any crap in temp files/folders and remove any orphans or associated links to crap. Do a malwarebytes clean, anti-virus check (they aren't the same thing), clean install gpu drivers.

I'd also (win key + X), run : CMD (enter), cd\ (enter), SFC /SCANNOW (enter). If there's any corrupted/broken system files, that'll find/repair them.

That'll start you out as fresh and clean and optimised a pc as possible, barring a fresh clean reinstall of windows itself. If that issue persists, only then would I start looking at hardware, with psu #1 culprit, followed by ram then gpu.
Thanks, i'll give this all a try tomorrow morning.
I actually changed my GPU yesterday for a cheaper, older one I had. It actually helped the PC last a little bit longer when it gets to desktop for some reason before the computer forcibly reboots. Not sure if that's a sign that would help me figure out what the issue is though.
 
Aug 7, 2019
12
0
10
That's a possibility. Although a slim one. You put AC voltages into the psu directly, which through a series of coils and caps changes that AC to 12v, 5v, 3.3v DC voltages. That's if it's running. If it's off, that AC voltage would have to go entirely through the psu to hit the mobo.

I guess it can happen, in a lightning strike, but seriously doubtful that your pc was affected and not your TV or any other electronics that were also plugged in.

Funky psu is far more likely than fried mobo.

I'd start by doing a bios reset by shorting the cmos tabs (procedure in your user manual for your board), updating any and all motherboard chipset drivers from mobo website, doing a good clean of the pc with ccleaner, also registry tool in ccleaner.
That'll clean up any crap in temp files/folders and remove any orphans or associated links to crap. Do a malwarebytes clean, anti-virus check (they aren't the same thing), clean install gpu drivers.

I'd also (win key + X), Windows Command Prompt (Admin) , cd\ (enter), SFC /SCANNOW (enter). If there's any corrupted/broken system files, that'll find/repair them.

That'll start you out as fresh and clean and optimised a pc as possible, barring a fresh clean reinstall of windows itself. If that issue persists, only then would I start looking at hardware, with psu #1 culprit, followed by ram then gpu.
Aw man, tried to get to desktop this morning and now the PC won't even get there, the moment it gets past the log on screen it instantly shuts down and reboots, so a lot of these things I cant do at the moment.
Right now i'm operating under the assumption that it's probably the PSU, if I had to replace it, it's not something I can afford to cheap out on right?

I'm gonna get it checked out at a PC place by me. Last time they told me it was the GPU so not sure if they can really help but ill see
 
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