Darkbreeze
Retired Mod
- Jun 24, 2014
- 82,676
- 8,320
- 176,790
I'll send it to you, but I'll ask if something's going to be the computer, I'll send it to you. But I can't in half an hour
Darkbreeze
Retired Mod
- Jun 24, 2014
- 82,676
- 8,320
- 176,790
So, that is a 65w TDP processor, with a maximum TDP of 65w since it has no boost capability. That cooler should easily handle that CPU since it is intended for use with CPUs up to 95w.
Either the backplate is not attached correctly, the cooler is not attached to the backplate correctly, the CPU or motherboard are faulty OR you have either not configured the CPU fan profile in the BIOS or have connected the CPU fan to the wrong header.
What is the model of your motherboard? Which fan header on the motherboard is the CPU cooler plugged into? The one that says CPU_FAN, or some other like CPU_OPT or SYS_FAN?
I would make sure that the backplate is firmly (But not TOO firmly) attached to the motherboard and that the mounting hardware underneath the CPU cooler is correctly attached to the backplate with all fasteners snug and that there are no parts or objects on the motherboard that are interferring with the CPU cooler being seated completely flat on the CPU heat spreader, on ALL sides and corners. If it looks like something is sticking up, hitting ANY part of the CPU cooler OR the CPU cooler mounting hardware, that doesn't allow it to sit 100% completely flat, then you need a different cooler.
If everything is completely flat and correctly installed, and you have used an appropriate amount of thermal interface material (Paste) in an amount that is approximately equal in size to one half the size of a new #2 pencil eraser (The part that sticks out of the metal at the end of the pencil. Not including the part inside the metal that you can't see) or a small frozen pea, then I'd say the CPU you bought or your motherboard, have a problem.
It is probably worth first making sure you have the most recent BIOS version installed for your motherboard AND doing a hard reset of the BIOS configuration as outlined below, to make sure that the system is using the correct stock voltage. I'm going to assume you are not using any method of overclocking such as the front size bus, but if so, then resetting to the default settings should correct that, if it's even possible with that configuration which I doubt.
BIOS Hard Reset Procedure
Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.
Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.
During that five minutes, press the power button on the case for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.
If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.
Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.
Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.
In some cases it may be necessary to also go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager. I would recommend doing that and then reconfiguring any custom settings you need to assign such as the CPU fan profile (For example, Performance, silent, etc.) or boot options.
Either the backplate is not attached correctly, the cooler is not attached to the backplate correctly, the CPU or motherboard are faulty OR you have either not configured the CPU fan profile in the BIOS or have connected the CPU fan to the wrong header.
What is the model of your motherboard? Which fan header on the motherboard is the CPU cooler plugged into? The one that says CPU_FAN, or some other like CPU_OPT or SYS_FAN?
I would make sure that the backplate is firmly (But not TOO firmly) attached to the motherboard and that the mounting hardware underneath the CPU cooler is correctly attached to the backplate with all fasteners snug and that there are no parts or objects on the motherboard that are interferring with the CPU cooler being seated completely flat on the CPU heat spreader, on ALL sides and corners. If it looks like something is sticking up, hitting ANY part of the CPU cooler OR the CPU cooler mounting hardware, that doesn't allow it to sit 100% completely flat, then you need a different cooler.
If everything is completely flat and correctly installed, and you have used an appropriate amount of thermal interface material (Paste) in an amount that is approximately equal in size to one half the size of a new #2 pencil eraser (The part that sticks out of the metal at the end of the pencil. Not including the part inside the metal that you can't see) or a small frozen pea, then I'd say the CPU you bought or your motherboard, have a problem.
It is probably worth first making sure you have the most recent BIOS version installed for your motherboard AND doing a hard reset of the BIOS configuration as outlined below, to make sure that the system is using the correct stock voltage. I'm going to assume you are not using any method of overclocking such as the front size bus, but if so, then resetting to the default settings should correct that, if it's even possible with that configuration which I doubt.
BIOS Hard Reset Procedure
Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.
Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.
During that five minutes, press the power button on the case for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.
If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.
Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.
Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.
In some cases it may be necessary to also go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager. I would recommend doing that and then reconfiguring any custom settings you need to assign such as the CPU fan profile (For example, Performance, silent, etc.) or boot options.
Darkbreeze
Retired Mod
- Jun 24, 2014
- 82,676
- 8,320
- 176,790
Take the side panel off, and leave it off, and see if you still are hitting those temperatures. I really doubt that simply not having case fans, if that IS the case, is the cause of 100°C temps on a dual core with no boost capability, but it's possible. You really need at least a rear exhaust fan. One intake and one exhaust would be a lot better.
Can you post pics of the inside of your case along with any installed case fans and what direction EACH case fan is blowing if there are any installed?
Darkbreeze
Retired Mod
- Jun 24, 2014
- 82,676
- 8,320
- 176,790
Ok, I'm done here. Sorry.
Seems to me you need somebody with experience working on computers, because I don't think you are able to do this yourself if taking the side panel off the case and running it like that to see if it still overheats is too complicated for you.
Seems to me you need somebody with experience working on computers, because I don't think you are able to do this yourself if taking the side panel off the case and running it like that to see if it still overheats is too complicated for you.
TRENDING THREADS
-
-
-
Question What Are the Benefits of Fast Offshore Company Incorporation?- Started by Seychellestrusts
- Replies: 0
-
-
Discussion What's your favourite video game you've been playing?- Started by amdfangirl
- Replies: 4K
Facebook
Twitter
Instagram