[SOLVED] Cpu upgrade

[Dc100]

I am currently having issues after upgrading my CPU.

Parts include:
Motherboard: Asus x570 TUF Gaming Plus Wifi
CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x (Upgraded from Ryzen 5 2600)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB 3200 mhz
GPU: GTX 1070
PSU: 600w

Things to note:

• I updated the BIOS before installing the Ryzen 7 5800x to version 4408 (latest as of today).
• I reset the CMOS by taking the battery out of the motherboard for 5 minutes.
• I am currently using the stock Ryzen cooler from the Ryzen 5 2600 on the Ryzen 7 5800x.
• When I power on, I get a blank black screen, but all the fans will run. The RGB on my keyboard also do not turn on
• I noticed when I take out one of the sticks of RAM, the RGB on the keyboard does turn on, but still a black screen.
• The DRAM QLED indicator on the motherboard turns on when I have the Ryzen 7 5800x.
• I have 0 issues when putting the Ryzen 5 2600 back into the system.

Is it possible that the RAM doesn't work with the Ryzen 7 5800x but it works with Ryzen 5 2600?
Is it possible that I would need to upgrade my PSU?
I wanted to ask these questions before going out and buying more upgrades.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Try this. EXACTLY as outlined. Do not skip ANY steps. I realize you "removed the CMOS battery for five minutes" but if you didn't disconnect the system completely from power and dissipate the residual charge then the hardware tables may not have been reset.

And any RAM that worked with the Ryzen 2600 should definitely work with the 5800x, although perhaps not if it were the other way around.

What is the model of your power supply and how long has it been in service?


BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.

 

[Dc100]

Thank you for the reply. I had originally unplugged it but i did not press the power button while it was off. So I tried it again following the instructions you posted and I still only get a blank screen. My power supply is Apevia 600W rated 80 plus gold. I’ve had the computer for maybe about a year so it’s been in use for a year.

 

[Dark Lord of Tech]

Apevia 600W , needs to be replaced right away. Very very poor quality.

 

[Dc100]

Is it possible that it won’t boot up because of the power supply? I saved money by getting this power supply on sale when I built the pc, so it makes sense that it is poor quality, but it has worked fine so far.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yes, it IS possible. Apevia does not have ANY reliable power supply models that I am aware of although they DO have a number of "dumpster fire" or "PSU shaped door stop" type objects they sell. Please read both of the following threads to assist yourself in finding something with significantly better quality.

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...

forums.tomshardware.com

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Klaymoor]

Thank you for the reply. I had originally unplugged it but i did not press the power button while it was off. So I tried it again following the instructions you posted and I still only get a blank screen. My power supply is Apevia 600W rated 80 plus gold. I’ve had the computer for maybe about a year so it’s been in use for a year.

Like Dark Lord of Tech said above, get rid of that Apevia power supply!! Enermax sells refurbished and new PSU's directly from Enermax on Newegg. EVGA sells PSU's off their website and the also have deals on their B stock page.

 

[Dc100]

Alright I'll be purchasing a new power supply then. Going with a Corsair RMx series 850 watts and I'll be using the Apevia to prop my door open.

 

[beyondlogic]

Alright I'll be purchasing a new power supply then. Going with a Corsair RMx series 850 watts and I'll be using the Apevia to prop my door open.

ok first of are you using windows 10 or windows 11

i remember having to turn of windows 10s bitlocker ( this is automatic on windows 10 and a pain in the rear as i had to go into the registry to turn it off).
and turning of my olds cpu security fTPM


at least thats how i upgraded my ryzen from a 3600 to 5700x

 

[Dc100]

ok first of are you using windows 10 or windows 11

i remember having to turn of windows 10s bitlocker ( this is automatic on windows 10 and a pain in the rear as i had to go into the registry to turn it off).
and turning of my olds cpu security tpm.


at least thats how i upgraded my ryzen from a 3600 to 5700x

Using Windows 10. I will look into this next.

 

[beyondlogic]

Using Windows 10. I will look into this next.

in the order i did it for my pc
with 3600 installed before upgrade

1. turned of bitlocker on windows 10 ( disable)
2. reset my pc entered bios
3. reset everything to default.
4. i then turned of ftpm in my bios
5. saved that to bios
6. powered down pc
7. installed new cpu and etc
8. powered system on
9. it took about 5 minutes to cycle threw
10. posted with a warning about ftpm not on in bios and to enter bios.
11. went back into bios reset to default and checked the ftpm was back on.
12. then i just punched back in all my old ram speeds etc and its been working since then.

i would like to point out this worked for me and your milage may vary i have a asrock b450 itx

cpu security fTPM i mean should be in the bios turn it off
bitlocker

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puVRpZQVouE

 

[vertigo_2_20]

That PSU has decent reviews, and even if it's of questionable quality, it should be able to power that CPU. That said, the new CPU does require over twice the power--80W more--and it does somewhat sound like there's not enough power. Are you using the 4 or 8-pin power connector on the motherboard for the CPU? Also, Bitlocker shouldn't be the issue, since you should be able to at least see POST and BIOS regardless of if there are even any drives present, much less whether they're encrypted. In fact, you could try unplugging all drives and fans (except the CPU cooler, though you could unplug it as well since it won't get hot enough in the short time to test to cause any problems, and if it does, the CPU should shut off) and see if that allows the PSU to power the mobo and CPU enough to get video.

 

[Dc100]

Yeah the new power supply didn’t work, but it’s a lot quieter now.

 

[Darkbreeze]

That PSU has decent reviews, and even if it's of questionable quality, it should be able to power that CPU. That said, the new CPU does require over twice the power--80W more--and it does somewhat sound like there's not enough power. Are you using the 4 or 8-pin power connector on the motherboard for the CPU? Also, Bitlocker shouldn't be the issue, since you should be able to at least see POST and BIOS regardless of if there are even any drives present, much less whether they're encrypted. In fact, you could try unplugging all drives and fans (except the CPU cooler, though you could unplug it as well since it won't get hot enough in the short time to test to cause any problems, and if it does, the CPU should shut off) and see if that allows the PSU to power the mobo and CPU enough to get video.

How would you know if the PSU model he has has decent reviews or not when he never even actually listed a model? The only thing that was stated was "Apevia 600w Gold".

There is in fact only one currently listed Apevia 650w Gold model and that is the Apevia ATX-JV650W, but they may have been additional models in the past. Regardless, NONE of them have reviews much less GOOD reviews.

If you happen to know the model the OP has and also have a link showing a good review from a reputable professional reviewer, then I'll accept that as bonafide, otherwise, you shouldn't make statements that seem to be fictional.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Do you know anybody with another graphics card you can use to test it, temporarily?

 

[vertigo_2_20]

How would you know if the PSU model he has has decent reviews or not when he never even actually listed a model? The only thing that was stated was "Apevia 600w Gold".

There is in fact only one currently listed Apevia 650w Gold model and that is the Apevia ATX-JV650W, but they may have been additional models in the past. Regardless, NONE of them have reviews much less GOOD reviews.

If you happen to know the model the OP has and also have a link showing a good review from a reputable professional reviewer, then I'll accept that as bonafide, otherwise, you shouldn't make statements that seem to be fictional.

You quoted him as saying 600W then you go on to talk about a 650W model. I did a quick search for "Apevia 600w Gold" which came up with the Apevia ATX-PR600W Prestige 600W 80+ Gold, and since it not only came up with a ton of results for that model, but only that model, I figured it's a safe assumption that's the model OP has. And it has 4.5 stars with >1k reviews on Amazon, so it seems unlikely it's that bad. So no, my statement isn't fictional, and maybe drop the attitude. I could say just as much about you making statements that his PSU is crap and suggesting it may be the problem without knowing the model. I'm just trying to help, sorry if it upsets you so much that what I said was contrary to your seemingly fictional statement. The bottom line was that the power supply should be able to power the CPU and likely isn't the problem, which OP has now confirmed.

 

[Dc100]

It’s so strange that it works fine with the Ryzen 5 2600 and then no POST with the Ryzen 7 5800x. When I put the Ryzen 7 5800x in there is a DRAM QLED indicator on the motherboard. I went out and bought new ram to try that as well and no luck. I don’t see any bent pins, but maybe its bad?

 

[Dc100]

Btw you have all been very helpful. Thanks.

 

[vertigo_2_20]

I'm wondering if it has to do with the integrated graphics. Your old CPU doesn't have it and is using the 1070, but maybe the new CPU is trying to use its iGPU. Try switching the video cable from the 1070 to the motherboard's graphics port.

 

[Dc100]

It was my understanding that the Ryzen 7 5800x did not have integrated graphics, but I’ll give it a shot

 

[John Chesterfield]

It doesn't..

 

[vertigo_2_20]

You're correct. I thought all the newer ones did. So much for that theory... 🙁

 

[Darkbreeze]

And it has 4.5 stars with >1k reviews on Amazon, so it seems unlikely it's that bad.

You're right, I did cornfuse the issue with two different capacities, however, it's irrelevant anyhow as just as I KNEW it would be, there are no "good" reviews of Apevia power supplies. This quote alone tells me you have no clue what you are talking about when it comes to power supplies, and that's ok, except you shouldn't make statements like "it has good reviews" UNLESS you are talking about professional reviews.

As to ANYTHING on Amazon, Newegg or most other retail sites, those reviews have literally NOTHING whatsoever to do with quality or performance. You have to know that for the vast majority of Amazon reviews, if the flipping thing showed up on time or the box wasn't crushed, the sheeple on there will give it a 5 star review. It's extremely rare that anybody on there shows even a modicum of intellect when it comes to PC hardware and if there are 500 reviews on a component there MIGHT be one person who isn't totally clueless and actually offers something resembling valuable feedback on it. The rest, worthless.

If you stick around long and pay attention though, you might learn enough to actually have an idea of what you are talking about when it comes to this area of hardware.

TLDR, Amazon reviews are meaningless when it comes to power supply quality or performance, so it would be wise not to use those as a metric in the future.

 

[Darkbreeze]

It’s so strange that it works fine with the Ryzen 5 2600 and then no POST with the Ryzen 7 5800x. When I put the Ryzen 7 5800x in there is a DRAM QLED indicator on the motherboard. I went out and bought new ram to try that as well and no luck. I don’t see any bent pins, but maybe its bad?

Check it super close and make absolutely certain there are no bent or missing pins. The issue with the PSU really isn't that it's likely to be causing THIS problem, it's more so you don't damage any hardware or allow any other problems to develop due to that power supply and there will be at some point if there isn't already. I assure you. And even so, there is always the weird, outside chance of a PSU like this still actually BEING the problem, slim as it might be.

The fact that it didn't, doesn't mean it was not a good move on your part because it was.

Let me think some more on what might be causing the 2600 to work but the 5800x not to. I'm really thinking it's just a bad CPU. Did you buy that CPU new or used? And from where?

 

[vertigo_2_20]

You're right, I did cornfuse the issue with two different capacities, however, it's irrelevant anyhow as just as I KNEW it would be, there are no "good" reviews of Apevia power supplies. This quote alone tells me you have no clue what you are talking about when it comes to power supplies, and that's ok, except you shouldn't make statements like "it has good reviews" UNLESS you are talking about professional reviews.

As to ANYTHING on Amazon, Newegg or most other retail sites, those reviews have literally NOTHING whatsoever to do with quality or performance. You have to know that for the vast majority of Amazon reviews, if the flipping thing showed up on time or the box wasn't crushed, the sheeple on there will give it a 5 star review. It's extremely rare that anybody on there shows even a modicum of intellect when it comes to PC hardware and if there are 500 reviews on a component there MIGHT be one person who isn't totally clueless and actually offers something resembling valuable feedback on it. The rest, worthless.

If you stick around long and pay attention though, you might learn enough to actually have an idea of what you are talking about when it comes to this area of hardware.

TLDR, Amazon reviews are meaningless when it comes to power supply quality or performance, so it would be wise not to use those as a metric in the future.

Ok, whatever man. You're right, the power supply is a total POS that can't provide half its power rating yet somehow has that high a star rating. I realize Amazon reviews aren't a perfect measure, but if it was total junk and couldn't even power a basic system people would be downvoting it. I've been using Amazon for years, and I'm aware many reviews are lazy/stupid, but, especially with PC hardware, there tend to be a lot of thorough, knowledgeable ones. Also, yeah, I clearly have no clue about power supplies, despite the fact I've worked in electronics, I've spent many hours researching about them and have been building my own PCs and helping others do so for decades, and I was correct that OP's power supply isn't an issue in their current build and is in fact perfectly suitable for such a lower-end build. Maybe if you stick around long enough, you'll learn that professional reviews aren't the end-all, and many products do well in professional reviews, where they simply look at specs, features, build, and initial performance, but do poorly in customer reviews, where they just don't work well in actual daily use. Both are important. And I never said I'd recommend that power supply, but OP already had it, and it was performing the job, and people on here seem to have a tendency to jump on the PSU as a culprit that must be replaced right now even when there's not necessarily anything wrong with it, just because it's a questionable brand. It's one thing to recommend getting a better quality one from a more reputable brand simply because it's a critical component, but that should be how it's stated, not "that's the problem because that brand is a POS."

 

[vertigo_2_20]

Anyways, OP, sorry about allowing the derailment there to take us OT. Your problem still hasn't been solved, and that should be the focus. One other thought I had, which is a very long-shot, is that sometimes a computer will be on, with the fans running but nothing else as you described, but it won't actually be fully on, and in such cases you just need to press the power button to get it to actually turn on. Not sure why it would do this with one CPU and not another, but it's worth mentioning. Other than that, it's possible, but again a long-shot, that the CPU is bad. I don't suppose you have another computer you can try it in? And you never replied to which CPU power connector you're using on the motherboard, 4 or 8-pin.