Question CPU Upgrade

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I'm not aware of any case sold without tempered glass or acrylic. Plate glass would be extremely scary on a PC side panel. Tempered is just a safety feature, the glass is rapidly cooled during production so that it isn't allowed to form large contiguous sections. When tempered glass breaks it makes tiny almost harmless shards. Plate glass can break into long splinters capable of slicing a person up.

Quite see through, not sure why you think it wouldn't be. Are you thinking tinted glass? (Some of them certainly are)

Yes, no WiFi means it doesn't already have a wireless module on the board. The same motherboard with the wireless module included:


You could also get a wireless module and antennae of your own and install it in the first board, it has the slot for it.

Large dual tower air coolers are more than sufficient to keep a processor under control for gaming, general use, and many other intensive tasks. I would only recommend water cooling if you intend to push the CPU for long durations at full load on all the cores, that is when there is a significant benefit. Water coolers can fail. Air coolers just require replacement fans after so many years. Whereas an AIO replacement means an all new AIO and they don't sell them without fans.

Yes, your CPU can produce a very high frame rate. Your GPU will be the limiting factor, but that is a temporary thing until you get a new GPU, so don't worry about it.
 
Eximo said:
I'm not aware of any case sold without tempered glass or acrylic. Plate glass would be extremely scary on a PC side panel. Tempered is just a safety feature, the glass is rapidly cooled during production so that it isn't allowed to form large contiguous sections. When tempered glass breaks it makes tiny almost harmless shards. Plate glass can break into long splinters capable of slicing a person up.

Quite see through, not sure why you think it wouldn't be. Are you thinking tinted glass? (Some of them certainly are)

Yes, no WiFi means it doesn't already have a wireless module on the board. The same motherboard with the wireless module included:


You could also get a wireless module and antennae of your own and install it in the first board, it has the slot for it.

Large dual tower air coolers are more than sufficient to keep a processor under control for gaming, general use, and many other intensive tasks. I would only recommend water cooling if you intend to push the CPU for long durations at full load on all the cores, that is when there is a significant benefit. Water coolers can fail. Air coolers just require replacement fans after so many years. Whereas an AIO replacement means an all new AIO and they don't sell them without fans.

Yes, your CPU can produce a very high frame rate. Your GPU will be the limiting factor, but that is a temporary thing until you get a new GPU, so don't worry about it.
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Thank you,

Sorry I did mean to say Tinted Tempered Glass, Pcpartpicker only has the tinted on that case, when you select the normal it changes to with the 850watt PSU and goes up to £350, can’t have the standard tempered glass without the PSU on pc part picker, just wondering if the tinted would almost block the inside from being seen.
Planning on getting a little 7inch screen to put inside the PC facing out with temperatures on in the future.

This is in my current Motherboard.
https://amzn.eu/d/fcFhxLb

Not sure if I should get the WIFI built in or not, regarding the NVME slots, how many is there? The other MOBO that was sent a while back had enclosed parts where the NVMes sat inside? Is the asrock a good board? My headset I use right now also has headset jack and microphone jack.
 
Looks like 4 M.2 slots.

The motherboard has onboard audio.

WiFi 6E on that board, which is a little better than WiFi 6, but you would need an accompanying router and internet speed to take advantage of it.

Partpicker doesn't have everyone's prices. If you can track down on that isn't tinted, go for it. I would say that any screen on the inside would still be plenty visible.
 
Eximo said:
Looks like 4 M.2 slots.

The motherboard has onboard audio.

WiFi 6E on that board, which is a little better than WiFi 6, but you would need an accompanying router and internet speed to take advantage of it.

Partpicker doesn't have everyone's prices. If you can track down on that isn't tinted, go for it. I would say that any screen on the inside would still be plenty visible.
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Assuming the motherboard has a port for a headphone and microphone jack, as my headset I use has to connect to 2 jack ports rather than one or a USB.

Would you recommend that Motherboard? With or without WiFi, as I would be putting my current “TP-LINK AX3000 Wi-Fi 6 Bluetooth 5.2 PCI Express Adapter” into it.

Should I stop faffing and just get the asrock motherboard or is there other versions in say MSI?
 
There wouldn't be much point in getting a motherboard with a WiFi slot if you are going to use a discrete card. The nice thing about the modular ones is that you could install a WiFi 7 module in there whenever your router gets replaced. All without using an expansion slot vs taking up space on the back of the computer.

I had a module go bad in my old Mini-ITX board, ended up upgrading to AX Wifi 6 from N or whatever it was before.

Standard audio is 5 multi-purpose jacks for headphones or a surround sound setup.

Motherboard features are kind of unique to the user. If you are only interested in a basic build I think the ASRock board is more than fine.

Gigabyte is my next most used option. MSI is generally cool. You can certainly spend more and get the Steel Legend model, MAG from MSI, or the Gaming series from Gigabyte. ASUS in the past. I kind of trust their Prime series, but I think the rest of their lineup from ROG is a little expensive.
 
Eximo said:
There wouldn't be much point in getting a motherboard with a WiFi slot if you are going to use a discrete card. The nice thing about the modular ones is that you could install a WiFi 7 module in there whenever your router gets replaced. All without using an expansion slot vs taking up space on the back of the computer.

I had a module go bad in my old Mini-ITX board, ended up upgrading to AX Wifi 6 from N or whatever it was before.

Standard audio is 5 multi-purpose jacks for headphones or a surround sound setup.

Motherboard features are kind of unique to the user. If you are only interested in a basic build I think the ASRock board is more than fine.

Gigabyte is my next most used option. MSI is generally cool. You can certainly spend more and get the Steel Legend model, MAG from MSI, or the Gaming series from Gigabyte. ASUS in the past. I kind of trust their Prime series, but I think the rest of their lineup from ROG is a little expensive.
Click to expand...

When you say modular ones is that the ones with WIFI?

Would this one also work? “Gigabyte Z790 GAMING X AX Motherboard”
https://amzn.eu/d/4WJtOof

If so what’s the differences between this one and the original Asrock you sent me, is this gigabyte one better? It’s on offer on Amazon from £236 down to £199 so roughly £13 more than the asrock one, of course I don’t know much and the differences between motherboards and what’s best and what’s not and what’s preferred on them.

And assuming the other motherboards won’t have the RGB
 
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Eximo said:
In that case, you have plenty of options.

Your existing motherboard is ATX, so any ATX board should fit fine. Water cooling is not necessary even on the bigger chips. At least not for gaming. If you were wanting to use all cores at 100% for long periods, then water cooling makes sense.

Something like this should work for you. You will need to double check your maximum CPU cooler height in your chassis though.

Optionally upgrade that to a 13700k or 14700k. Your ram will slot right in.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-14600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor (£287.97 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (£35.00 @ Computer Orbit)
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-A WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard (£179.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £502.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-29 20:31 GMT+0000
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While i haven't had any recent personal issues with intel chips, i wouldn't advise anyone to get a 14600k or higher as intel is currently being investigated for rapid and high failure rates of thier high end 14th gen chips. turns out shoving 250-400 watts through their cpus is bad for the silicon.

if OP choses to go this path, i cannot advise overclocking a 14th gen until we know more about the effects on the lifetime of these chips.
 
They accept an M.2 style WiFi module. Those ASRock boards are identical, except that one includes a WiFi module and one doesn't. They have have a dedicated slot for a WiFi module.

As for the differences, The Gaming X has more USB ports, a better audio solution that includes optical audio, and 4 full size M.2 slots plus the onboard WiFi. It also has two additional x16 slots which can accept any card length, however, they are not wired for full bandwidth and they are both located at the bottom of the board. So a single dual slot card or single slot card(s) only. I suspect this one can handle a high end CPU a little better.

AsRock Z790 Pro RS either WiFi or not has 3 M.2 slots, one easily accessible WiFi slot (occupied on the WiFi version), and two PCIe x16 slots. This is in the more standard config with 3 slot spacing between the x16 slots. That probably doesn't matter too much.
 
https://www.techspot.com/news/102555-intel-finally-investigating-reports-high-end-13th-14th.html

Setting a power limit does seem like the wise thing to do, at least for the moment.

Between this and the MSI cracking chipsets(that seems to be an assembly error of some kind), not a great time for Intel. Still every system should be tuned a little before heavy use. I haven't trusted out of the box motherboard settings in a long while.

When I first got my i7-950 (back when even unlocked CPUs came with heatsinks) I set it up with the stock heatsink. Could barely get into the BIOS before it overheated. The ASUS ROG stock settings were outrageous. I had to memorize the steps to lower the stock voltage and execute it very quickly after a cold start. Took me a few tries, but I finally managed it. Ended up undervolting and overclocking the chip while I was at it, even after I decided on an aftermarket cooler. (I got a bit spoiled by my Athlon X2, the stock cooler, which is basically what the AMD Wraith Prism is today was actually the best cooler on the market for the chip at the time.
 
Eximo said:
They accept an M.2 style WiFi module. Those ASRock boards are identical, except that one includes a WiFi module and one doesn't. They have have a dedicated slot for a WiFi module.

As for the differences, The Gaming X has more USB ports, a better audio solution that includes optical audio, and 4 full size M.2 slots plus the onboard WiFi. It also has two additional x16 slots which can accept any card length, however, they are not wired for full bandwidth and they are both located at the bottom of the board. So a single dual slot card or single slot card(s) only. I suspect this one can handle a high end CPU a little better.

AsRock Z790 Pro RS either WiFi or not has 3 M.2 slots, one easily accessible WiFi slot (occupied on the WiFi version), and two PCIe x16 slots. This is in the more standard config with 3 slot spacing between the x16 slots. That probably doesn't matter too much.
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So would the gigabyte board I linked be better?

And also does that mean getting an i7 14700k isn’t advised now, what do I change to lool
 
If you are concerned, you could drop down to the regular i7-14700, it doesn't consume as much power or boost as high, but it is still fast.

I wouldn't worry too much about a 14700k for your use case. Maybe go into the BIOS and set a 180W power limit for a while until the next BIOS update takes care of it.

It is an okay choice.
 
Eximo said:
If you are concerned, you could drop down to the regular i7-14700, it doesn't consume as much power or boost as high, but it is still fast.

I wouldn't worry too much about a 14700k for your use case. Maybe go into the BIOS and set a 180W power limit for a while until the next BIOS update takes care of it.

It is an okay choice.
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I mean so would getting the i7 14700k be an option and doing the same limiting the power to 180W?
And I’d rather get a decent Motherboard than spend money on a motherboard that isn’t as decent, I just don’t know much about what motherboards are best, easy interfaces etc, and ones that have good functionality and specs.
 
I believe 180W is the boost limit of the locked Intel chips. For the K chips it is 253W, which is proving to be quite a lot.

This is stuff you just kind of have to predict based on how you use your computer.

Z790 - Overclocking, generally more I/O and slots available in most sizes, but generally Mini-ITX and ATX are more common. (Support for higher wattage chips), Also more likely to see EATX and other non-standard motherboard sizes.
B660 - No Overclocking, higher memory speeds supported, decent complement of M.2 slots USB ports and expansion slots. Generally available in all sizes with Mini-ITX being more expensive (Support for larger CPUs)
H610 - No Overclocking, bare minimum typical. Single M.2 slot, maybe two, generally Micro ATX with two or three expansion slots usable. Minimal SATA and USB ports. (Not intended for large CPUs) Limited memory speeds.

So when looking at different Z790 boards, you want to look at what you can plug in and if you are likely to use it. USB ports on the rear. USB headers, Network adapter(s), Audio, M.2 Slots. You will of course have dual or quad memory slots depending on board size. Heatsinks for M.2 drives included or not. Accessibility of M.2 slots once GPU is installed.

If you are building a system with a single GPU and a single M.2 drive, maybe a second one later on, almost any board will work as long as it can handle the CPU you are installing. And you are in control of that CPU.

If the Gaming X AX is at a reasonable price to you, take it. You can always spend more and have a pile of features unused. Some boards are made for sub-zero overclocking or still support SLI for running dual 3090Ti to set records. Or have thunderbolt and other connections seldom used outside of professional activities. Most people can get away with a Type-C 10Gbps US port.
 
Eximo said:
I believe 180W is the boost limit of the locked Intel chips. For the K chips it is 253W, which is proving to be quite a lot.

This is stuff you just kind of have to predict based on how you use your computer.

Z790 - Overclocking, generally more I/O and slots available in most sizes, but generally Mini-ITX and ATX are more common. (Support for higher wattage chips), Also more likely to see EATX and other non-standard motherboard sizes.
B660 - No Overclocking, higher memory speeds supported, decent complement of M.2 slots USB ports and expansion slots. Generally available in all sizes with Mini-ITX being more expensive (Support for larger CPUs)
H610 - No Overclocking, bare minimum typical. Single M.2 slot, maybe two, generally Micro ATX with two or three expansion slots usable. Minimal SATA and USB ports. (Not intended for large CPUs) Limited memory speeds.

So when looking at different Z790 boards, you want to look at what you can plug in and if you are likely to use it. USB ports on the rear. USB headers, Network adapter(s), Audio, M.2 Slots. You will of course have dual or quad memory slots depending on board size. Heatsinks for M.2 drives included or not. Accessibility of M.2 slots once GPU is installed.

If you are building a system with a single GPU and a single M.2 drive, maybe a second one later on, almost any board will work as long as it can handle the CPU you are installing. And you are in control of that CPU.

If the Gaming X AX is at a reasonable price to you, take it. You can always spend more and have a pile of features unused. Some boards are made for sub-zero overclocking or still support SLI for running dual 3090Ti to set records. Or have thunderbolt and other connections seldom used outside of professional activities. Most people can get away with a Type-C 10Gbps US port.
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Would the ASRock Z790 Steel Legend be a good choice? It is coming in at £240 tho, I’m not sure, I’m just skeptical as I haven’t heard of ASRock really compared to say MSI and other brands, is the ASRock reliable? Has it got good features and an easy interface?
If so and you recommend then I could potentially go ASrock as my Motherboard. I like the steel legend because it has the NVME housing and the additional USB ports.

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product...tx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-steel-legend-wifi

As for the I7 14700K which has now thrown a spanner in the works, do they have the same GHz speeds? What’s the difference between the 2 apart from the K being overclockable. obviously I know about the fails they have been receiving, but the difference between the K and the non K is about £22, i have never overclocked before and my current i5 6500P isn’t overclockable, would you think I’d ever need to overclock such a CPU?
The only thing like you said, that’s going with me ATM is that I can set the power limit of the 14700 to 180W rather than the 250w on the 14700K, would setting it to 180W make a difference in performance?
 
It is a usable motherboard. I have a Z690 Steel Legend. ASRock actually started life as the budget brand of ASUS. Then they split off, but that was a long time ago.

I can't say I've spent a lot of time in the BIOS, but it has everything you might need.

By default the 14700K uses its extra power budget to go as high as 5.6Ghz, the 14700 only goes up to 5.4Ghz. The main difference is the sustained base clock. It is much lower on the 14700 because it throttles down to 65W, but generally, this is not a problem as base clock is only the guaranteed speed. As long as cooling is sufficient you won't see such low clocks under load. Limiting the 14700k to 180W would make it very similar to the 14700 in practice (which actually has a default boost of 219W)
 
Eximo said:
It is a usable motherboard. I have a Z690 Steel Legend. ASRock actually started life as the budget brand of ASUS. Then they split off, but that was a long time ago.

I can't say I've spent a lot of time in the BIOS, but it has everything you might need.

By default the 14700K uses its extra power budget to go as high as 5.6Ghz, the 14700 only goes up to 5.4Ghz. The main difference is the sustained base clock. It is much lower on the 14700 because it throttles down to 65W, but generally, this is not a problem as base clock is only the guaranteed speed. As long as cooling is sufficient you won't see such low clocks under load. Limiting the 14700k to 180W would make it very similar to the 14700 in practice (which actually has a default boost of 219W)
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What would be the equivalent motherboard in other brands to the Z790 Steel Legend? for about £250, i mean the Asrock had the RGB lighting control which is a +, if that board would do for what i want to do, mainly just Gaming in general then wouldn't that be more than enough for me? most motherboards mention "12 and 13th gen compatible but doesn't say about 14th gen?
Are you able to put the 14700K to 180W? therefore making it the same as what the 14700 would be but being on the safer side till they sort the stuff going on? if you was in my situation would you go for the 14700K knowing what's been happening with them? or would you go for the 14700, baring in mind its only about £23 cheaper. I obviously don't want to get a CPU that's going to die on me within a few months. But then I don't want to waste the opportunity of it only being £23 more expensive.
The Steel Legend doesn't seem to have a Bios Flash, is this a bad thing? or is updating a motherboard fairly easy without a bios flash button? I did also read that the Steel Legend only has 3 x PCIe x16 Slots and nothing else.. so putting in say another Wireless Card or an additional (different) Sound card wouldn't be an option if I wanted it to?
Sorry for dragging this on so much, you're being really helpful, I just want to make sure I get the correct stuff and make the right decision.
 
These are all questions that people should ask before making such purchases, and anyone that stumbles across this thread can benefit.

x16 slots are not limited to full length cards. Any length can be installed. On that board the second x16 slot is only wired for 4x, and the last slot for 2x. You can install a 1x card in either. If you installed a 4x card in the last slot, it would only get two lanes. (Not sure I have ever seen a 2x card). That last slot in a standard 7 slot chassis means that it must be a single slot card. If you put the motherboard in an 8 or 9 slot chassis, then you could have a card extend beyond the bottom of the motherboard. Though I can't think of any PCIe 3.0 1x or 2x card that would fit that. Not really where you can put a GPU, but you could if you really wanted to. The board does support a thunderbolt add-in card, specific from ASRock.

Well CPU support depends on the BIOS it ships with. Looks like it will support all of 12th and 13th gen out of the box, and will need a BIOS update to 9.03 to use a 14th gen chip.
1) You can try a 14700k, it is similar enough to a 13th gen chip that it may boot and you can then perform the BIOS update.
2) You can take it to a shop and have them flash it. Or borrow a CPU from an acquaintance if possible.
3) You can purchase a 12th gen Celeron or i3, flash the board and then return it. (I'm not a huge fan of this, but it can be done)
4) If it arrives without the appropriate BIOS, you can send it to ASRock to be flashed.
5) You can just get a 13700k to start with.
6) Pick a board with CPUless flashing (most obvious thing to do)

AsRock Riptide boards are also generally good mid-range picks
Gaming series from Gigabyte is close, Aorus might be closer. Just depends on how the pricing goes.
TUF series from ASUS. Might be a few Prime boards as well.
MSI Pro or Gaming boards would fall in this category.

Really only the high end boards after that. Not as many people making Z class boards for Intel as there used to be.
 
Eximo said:
These are all questions that people should ask before making such purchases, and anyone that stumbles across this thread can benefit.

x16 slots are not limited to full length cards. Any length can be installed. On that board the second x16 slot is only wired for 4x, and the last slot for 2x. You can install a 1x card in either. If you installed a 4x card in the last slot, it would only get two lanes. (Not sure I have ever seen a 2x card). That last slot in a standard 7 slot chassis means that it must be a single slot card. If you put the motherboard in an 8 or 9 slot chassis, then you could have a card extend beyond the bottom of the motherboard. Though I can't think of any PCIe 3.0 1x or 2x card that would fit that. Not really where you can put a GPU, but you could if you really wanted to. The board does support a thunderbolt add-in card, specific from ASRock.

Well CPU support depends on the BIOS it ships with. Looks like it will support all of 12th and 13th gen out of the box, and will need a BIOS update to 9.03 to use a 14th gen chip.
1) You can try a 14700k, it is similar enough to a 13th gen chip that it may boot and you can then perform the BIOS update.
2) You can take it to a shop and have them flash it. Or borrow a CPU from an acquaintance if possible.
3) You can purchase a 12th gen Celeron or i3, flash the board and then return it. (I'm not a huge fan of this, but it can be done)
4) If it arrives without the appropriate BIOS, you can send it to ASRock to be flashed.
5) You can just get a 13700k to start with.
6) Pick a board with CPUless flashing (most obvious thing to do)

AsRock Riptide boards are also generally good mid-range picks
Gaming series from Gigabyte is close, Aorus might be closer. Just depends on how the pricing goes.
TUF series from ASUS. Might be a few Prime boards as well.
MSI Pro or Gaming boards would fall in this category.

Really only the high end boards after that. Not as many people making Z class boards for Intel as there used to be.
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I think I might go with the Asrock Steel Legend, been reading up on it and it seems quite good? Would you reckon that choice of motherboard would be a good idea?
In terms of the CPU I’m still stumped on what to do, do I get the 14700K and under power it; or do I get the 14700 and just not overclock it in the future if I did want to (probably won’t) but it has less GHz than the K?
Also in terms of heat and the CPU generating the most heat out of most CPUs, would the cooler listed before be sufficient for that CPU? Or would it get very hot during gaming sessions?
Also reading up, do I need to get one of these;
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7HC48d/placeholder
Also in regards to the 4000D Corsair case, it comes with 2 fans, one on the back top, and one in the front middle, the case can obviously be equipped with more fans, 2 more on the front to make the Coloured RGB effect through the front mesh. Should I buy additional fans to add to the existing 2 that comes with the fans? And what sort of fans. White bladed RGB fans?
 
I have one and I find it an adequate motherboard for gaming. I don't use that particular computer for much else. So basic RGB, Fan control, x16 slot for GPU, and an M.2 drive is what is in mine.

200 Mhz less, yes and without the ability to control the individual cores boost behavior. So you will only see 5.4 Ghz on a single core, or possibly 2 cores. As the core usage increases the frequency will go down. The amount of time the CPU stays at the high frequency will also be shorter by default. You may be able to still adjust that though. The same is true of the K series chips, but you can go in and tweak what the cores do or try to run them all at full speed (not really doable without high end cooling) Or increase the clock speeds beyond spec.

Generally I would add more fans of the type that it comes with, or replace all the fans with a single type.

The bracket is more for advanced users and can gain you a few degrees. As long as you don't over tighten the CPU cooler, the bending should be minimal. I didn't install one, but I have overkill cooling, so wasn't too worried about it.

That large air cooler is adequate for all normal use cases. Gaming, streaming, regular browsing etc. If you were to be rendering or computing with the CPU for long durations, I would say no, not good enough. Basically the air cooler can handle temporary spikes of power draw just fine. Sustained all core loads will perhaps result in some throttling with the K series chip. The non-K chip will throttle itself well before that point.
 
Eximo said:
I have one and I find it an adequate motherboard for gaming. I don't use that particular computer for much else. So basic RGB, Fan control, x16 slot for GPU, and an M.2 drive is what is in mine.

200 Mhz less, yes and without the ability to control the individual cores boost behavior. So you will only see 5.4 Ghz on a single core, or possibly 2 cores. As the core usage increases the frequency will go down. The amount of time the CPU stays at the high frequency will also be shorter by default. You may be able to still adjust that though. The same is true of the K series chips, but you can go in and tweak what the cores do or try to run them all at full speed (not really doable without high end cooling) Or increase the clock speeds beyond spec.

Generally I would add more fans of the type that it comes with, or replace all the fans with a single type.

The bracket is more for advanced users and can gain you a few degrees. As long as you don't over tighten the CPU cooler, the bending should be minimal. I didn't install one, but I have overkill cooling, so wasn't too worried about it.

That large air cooler is adequate for all normal use cases. Gaming, streaming, regular browsing etc. If you were to be rendering or computing with the CPU for long durations, I would say no, not good enough. Basically the air cooler can handle temporary spikes of power draw just fine. Sustained all core loads will perhaps result in some throttling with the K series chip. The non-K chip will throttle itself well before that point.
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So realistically if i have no plans to overclock then the K series is pointless and i should get the Non K edition? would the non K series run at the same performance as the K series if I didn't overclock the K? I just want to be able to run most games decently (once I get a new graphics card too), as ATM with my current setup most games I have to put graphics to low or I get low fps and very bad looking games.
What fans would you recommended? im going for a white/black theme and would like the fans to be RGB. and how many? do I put 3 on front, one on back, do I need more after that?
So forget that bracket, and the large CPU air cooler would be sufficient?
 
Performance will be similar but the not the same. It doesn't run as fast and its boost behavior is different. I ran a locked 10900 for a while. It was just fine despite not boosting as high as the 10900k.

If you are doing RGB fans, might as well fill all the spots you want. People often move the included case fans to the bottom or top where they are less visible when possible.

If you want to stay on the cheaper side:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPHXDLRG?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1

Expensive side:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/M9...20-rgb-elite-477-cfm-120-mm-fan-co-9050108-ww

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8CWBD3/phanteks-ph-f120sk-50-cfm-120-mm-fan-ph-f120sk_drgb_pwm
 
Eximo said:
Performance will be similar but the not the same. It doesn't run as fast and its boost behavior is different. I ran a locked 10900 for a while. It was just fine despite not boosting as high as the 10900k.

If you are doing RGB fans, might as well fill all the spots you want. People often move the included case fans to the bottom or top where they are less visible when possible.

If you want to stay on the cheaper side:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPHXDLRG?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1

Expensive side:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/M9...20-rgb-elite-477-cfm-120-mm-fan-co-9050108-ww

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8CWBD3/phanteks-ph-f120sk-50-cfm-120-mm-fan-ph-f120sk_drgb_pwm
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White fans or black fans if doing a Black/white theme, the motherboard is mainly white, the RGB Ram sticks will be white, the PSU (Hidden) will be white but with white cables. and the CPU Air cooler will be white?
So the airflow 4000D can hold 6 120mm fans or 4 140mm fans,
2 at the top, 3 on the front, 1 at the back if going 120mm, should I put as many fans on as I can so the 6 120mm? Do i need a RGB Fan hub?
And if you was in my situation now, where you've just heard about the problems with the i9 and i7 14700K when you was about to buy one, what would you personally do?
is my ram sticks even going to be on show with the big cpu air cooler?

https://www.ebuyer.com/1903578-cors...jEEOdZJjFIqYJE9mY6xoCf7wQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
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Appearance is entirely up to you. I like a white bladed fan, but I don't have RGB fans. I just rely on the LEDs in the rest of the system to light them up.

One of the memory sticks is likely to be visible when looking into the case. You can opt for non-RGB memory instead. Corsair Vengeance LPX in white is pretty good.

Corsair iCUE 4000D RGB Airflow will come with a hub. Then you could just get more of the same Corsair fans, but those are proprietary, I believe.

But, yes picking up an ARGB 5V hub would be smart with the Thermalright fans.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-ファン増設用ハブ-MFX-ZHHN-1NNN6-R1-FN1389/dp/B0892FLXDX?th=1
 
Eximo said:
Appearance is entirely up to you. I like a white bladed fan, but I don't have RGB fans. I just rely on the LEDs in the rest of the system to light them up.

One of the memory sticks is likely to be visible when looking into the case. You can opt for non-RGB memory instead. Corsair Vengeance LPX in white is pretty good.

Corsair iCUE 4000D RGB Airflow will come with a hub. Then you could just get more of the same Corsair fans, but those are proprietary, I believe.

But, yes picking up an ARGB 5V hub would be smart with the Thermalright fans.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-ファン増設用ハブ-MFX-ZHHN-1NNN6-R1-FN1389/dp/B0892FLXDX?th=1
Click to expand...
this is so confusing now, haha, stumped on what CPU to buy. and if i should get the 14700k or the 14700.
Now im wondering if I should get water cooling just for a better appearance look inside the case, and for more room, that way my ram would then be on show too.. but what do i get? and im pretty sure you can only have 2 fans on the top? what would be sufficient enough to cool a 14700 if i didn't get the big air cooler and get the water cooler? over kill or not, I think it would look a bit better for appearance.
So i would have to get the corsair 4000d RGB rather than the standard to get the RGB hub, and then buy the same Fans that come with the 4000D? i heard its cheaper to actually buy the RGB with the fans than to buy a default case without the RGB and buying all new fans?
 
Yeah I've pretty much always replaced the stock fans in cases, so didn't really care much what they came with. Only when I am doing budget builds do I pay attention on included fans.

You can pick up a Corsair branded AIO that includes an ARGB hub if you want. The reason I like non-RGB fans is because it simplifies the wiring. I have 7 fans that would be 14 cables with RGB. I use a simple PWM hub. Or you can get a cheap AIO and then use your own fans.

That dual tower is essentially a 240mm radiator. Paying $70-100 for a 240mm AIO vs $35 for about the same cooling performance with none of the headaches is why AIOs don't make a lot of sense.

Now the new Arctic Liquid Freezer III is quite cheap, as well as several AIO options from Thermalright (which share the same fans I listed earlier) so those are decent options.


I think we've covered the CPU question well enough. Nothing more to add. If it is BIOS updates needed to fix it, it will get taken care of pretty quickly with all the media attention it is getting. If you are still concerned, get the regular one.

Or we can look at AMD again. 7800X3D is still a fine chip.
 
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