Question Curious case of slow upload speeds ?

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milom98

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Dec 5, 2019
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A few weeks back some storms came through my area and knocked my power and internet out for a few days. Once everything was repaired, I noticed my upload speeds were really bad on some of my devices (PC, Xbox and cell phone). Before the outage I was getting upload speeds of around 40 Mbps but after the repairs it was never faster than 14 Mbps and often less than 5 Mbps. I've tested the PC and Xbox on wired ethernet and wi-fi but the results are the same on both.

My download speeds are the same as before, modem has the same trained speeds as before and there has been no provisional changes made. Had a tech come and check things out and he confirmed the speeds to the modem and from the modem were good. Still, he decided to try a new modem but the results were the same on my devices. (good download and bad upload).

Now the curious parts. The tech was also getting the slow upload speeds on his cell phone to begin with on both the old modem's and new modem' wi-fi but by the time he was leaving, the upload speed on his phone was up in the normal (35-40 Mbps). My cell phone's wi-fi upload speeds stayed bad for a few days after the tech visit but magically got better yesterday and are now around 30 Mbps. Testing on a couple of friends cell phones and a laptop gave the normal speeds.

So now I'm left with my PC and Xbox stuck with the slow upload speeds and haven't a clue what's causing it.

Here's some of what I've tried. Can't remember it all since I've tried so much.

PC -Tested on both ethernet and wi-fi, checked for network driver updates, uninstalled and reinstalled net work drivers, unplugged from power for a couple of hours, disabled antivirus for testing...

Xbox - Reset to factory settings (only keeping installed games and apps), unplugged from power for a couple of hours...

My ISP is Windstream and I'm on a DSL bonded pair connection with 200/40 Mbps provisioned speeds.
I'm running Windows 10 on a cheap little Acer Aspire XC-1660G

One note, my power came back on a couple days before my internet and I used my cell phone as a hotspot for connecting only to my PC and Xbox. I turned that off on my phone and cleared it from my PC as an option to connect to.... Just found it odd that the only two devices I connected it to were the ones still experiencing the slow upload speeds.


Thanks in advance.
 
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Very likely the factory resets are using some default values that no longer match the PC and Xbos in question.

Ho

Adding in the TP-Link router is, for now, just adding in another variable.

Ideally the problem can be discovered with a fix that may or may not require the TP-Link Router.

Regarding your network diagram:

Three ActionTek T3260 (the current modem/router) LAN Ports in use serving PC, Xbox, and the Second PC - correct? Which numbered ports ?

Is anything connected to the WAN/LAN port?

On the Gateway's Home Network screen (Page 13), are all connected devices listed?

Likewise for LAN Status Page 21.

Lease Time is configured via Advanced Settings - Page 48. Set the lease time to the maximum allowed.

I do not have an Xbox X to compare settings etc. and will need to defer to those who do have a working Xbox X.

However, what may be the most useful are the Gateway's QoS Upstream and Downstream settings.

Reference Manual Pages 54 and 55.

If possible, take screenshots and post here via imgur (www.imgur.com)

Someone may spot an issue therein.
 
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Ralston18 said:
Very likely the factory resets are using some default values that no longer match the PC and Xbos in question.

Ho

Adding in the TP-Link router is, for now, just adding in another variable.

Ideally the problem can be discovered with a fix that may or may not require the TP-Link Router.

Regarding your network diagram:

Three ActionTek T3260 (the current modem/router) LAN Ports in use serving PC, Xbox, and the Second PC - correct? Which numbered ports ?

Is anything connected to the WAN/LAN port?

On the Gateway's Home Network screen (Page 13), are all connected devices listed?

Likewise for LAN Status Page 21.

Lease Time is configured via Advanced Settings - Page 48. Set the lease time to the maximum allowed.

I do not have an Xbox X to compare settings etc. and will need to defer to those who do have a working Xbox X.

However, what may be the most useful are the Gateway's QoS Upstream and Downstream settings.

Reference Manual Pages 54 and 55.

If possible, take screenshots and post here via imgur (www.imgur.com)

Someone may spot an issue therein.
Click to expand...
Was hoping that putting the Actiontec in bridge (dumb) mode and letting the TP-Link router handle all the routing.... would be like a fresh start for all connected devices.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Port connections
PC - port 1
Xbox - port 2
Second PC - port 4

Nothing connected to the WAN/LAN port
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On the Gateway's Home Network screen are all connected devices listed? Appears so

Likewise for LAN Status. Appears so
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I set the lease time to the maximum allowed 365 days.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Looks like Windstream has locked users out of the Gateway's QoS Upstream and Downstream settings. To access them, it says to log in as root but neither the default password or the one I made works with root.
 
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Ralston18 said:
Check your service agreement with Windstream - what level of service are you paying for?

Up and down.
Click to expand...
Bill shows 200Mbps down but no mention of up. If I recall correctly, it was 30Mbps up.

I was however a little over provisioned on those speeds because of my closeness to their terminal (about 100 yards away). The tech they sent out seemed miffed that it was over provisioned and called to have it dialed back. Tried to tell me that might have been what was causing the slow upload speeds, despite my telling him that everything was fine until the storms knocked out power and internet for a few days.

Before the tech requested the provision change, I was testing at 250-260Mbps down and 45-55Mbpd up. Now it's 155-165Mbps down and 30-35Mbps up (of course that's on a device that's not the Xbox or my PC).
 
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You would not be the first to have been the recipient of a "happy accident" where you receive a better level of service (at least initially) than you subscribed to. Especially as an "early" customer - lots of bandwidth available.

Then as available bandwidth decreases then you get scaled back either intentionally or just as a result of some system events (such as storms and power outages) resetting everything.

Unfortunately, all that does not explain why the Xbox or the PC still remain slower than other devices.

The nearest potential culprit that I can think of is some NAT (double NAT) issue.

Work though the steps within the following Microsoft Xbox related link:

https://support.xbox.com/en-US/help...ing your Xbox console,the NAT message is gone.

Even if you have done some of the things before there may have been (due to the learning curve) some error of omission or commission. Or even likewise on my part.

Continue experimenting a bit via the gateway's configuration settings and ports: Make only one change at a time and allow time between changes.

For example:

Limit the number of DHCP IP addresses/devices to just a few more than the number of current network devices.

Be methodical and keep notes both details and the "big picture". Use a network sketch to show what is working and what is not working.

= = = =

Not sure about that 365 day lease time: Normally the lease time is much less - a week or two. Will defer to other posts and comments in that regards.

= = = =

If the Xbox is removed does the PC's internet speed improve?

Swap PC and Second PC's respective ports.

Swap Ethernet cables.

Determine what, if anything changes.
 
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Ralston18 said:
You would not be the first to have been the recipient of a "happy accident" where you receive a better level of service (at least initially) than you subscribed to. Especially as an "early" customer - lots of bandwidth available.

Then as available bandwidth decreases then you get scaled back either intentionally or just as a result of some system events (such as storms and power outages) resetting everything.

Unfortunately, all that does not explain why the Xbox or the PC still remain slower than other devices.

The nearest potential culprit that I can think of is some NAT (double NAT) issue.

Work though the steps within the following Microsoft Xbox related link:

https://support.xbox.com/en-US/help/hardware-network/connect-network/double-nat-detected#:~:text=Try connecting your Xbox console,the NAT message is gone.

Even if you have done some of the things before there may have been (due to the learning curve) some error of omission or commission. Or even likewise on my part.

Continue experimenting a bit via the gateway's configuration settings and ports: Make only one change at a time and allow time between changes.

For example:

Limit the number of DHCP IP addresses/devices to just a few more than the number of current network devices.

Be methodical and keep notes both details and the "big picture". Use a network sketch to show what is working and what is not working.

= = = =

Not sure about that 365 day lease time: Normally the lease time is much less - a week or two. Will defer to other posts and comments in that regards.

= = = =

If the Xbox is removed does the PC's internet speed improve?

Swap PC and Second PC's respective ports.

Swap Ethernet cables.

Determine what, if anything changes.
Click to expand...
From what I read, it appears that the Xbox will show “Double NAT detected” via it's Networking status menu if it is happening and mine always shows open.

I read the Xbox NAT troubleshooting guide and there wasn't really anything useful in it.
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When you say to "Limit the number of DHCP IP addresses/devices to just a few more than the number of current network devices" you mean to change the IP addressing values that currently run from 192.168.254.64 - 192.168.254.253 to something like 192.168.254.64 - 192.168.254.80 (currently 12 devices connected)?

If that's correct, how would that affect the devices that currently have IP addresses that pass the 192.168.254.80 threshold? Gateway reboot needed for that I assume?

There's a DHCP Reservation --> DHCP Reservation List in the gateway settings that offers the option to "Remove" devices from the reservation list. Hurt anything to remove all/some devices. It list many more devices than the 12 connected devices.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The 365 lease was the max allowed, as I first put in 9999 and received a message that 365 was the max. I did however lower it to 7 days after reading your reply about the usual normal range.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

No improvements with either only the PC or Xbox connected to the network. Even tried it with wifi disabled to make sure nothing else was pulling bandwidth.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Swapped ports and cables and nothing changed

It all a big mystery at this point.
 
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If you limit the number of available DHCP IP addresses then once that limit is reached no more devices can join the network until another device leaves the network. Then that DHCP IP address becomes available again.

At any given time there generally are around 7 - 8 DHCP IP devices on my network so I allow 10 devices. However at at recent family get together I had to double the DHCP IP address range.

I also have four network devices with Static IP addresses that are reserved via the device's MAC and the Static IP addresses are well outside the DHCP IP address range.

If the reserved devices are no longer around or rarely around you can remove them from the list.

I tend to take screenshots of the applicable router admin screens to capture IP addresses, MACs, device names etc. for reference purposes.

Compile your own list of devices, their MAC's and IP addresses. Could be duplicate or typo within the reservations.
 
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I work for a small business so I'm not sure how this applies to you but I have had the same issues with slow upload speeds , I posted about it if your interested you can search my user name for the post .

The solution was to go into the NIC advanced settings and disable the large send offload (ipv4) and large send offload V2 (ipv4)

Once i did this the upload speeds jumped right back to normal ..

Hope this helps
 
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naviseyer said:
I work for a small business so I'm not sure how this applies to you but I have had the same issues with slow upload speeds , I posted about it if your interested you can search my user name for the post .

The solution was to go into the NIC advanced settings and disable the large send offload (ipv4) and large send offload V2 (ipv4)

Once i did this the upload speeds jumped right back to normal ..

Hope this helps
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion. I gave it a look but my network adapter only had the large send offload V2 (ipv4) as an option. I did disable it but it didn't help things.

I had to take a break this past weekend from trying to run the problem down. I'm was at my wit's end with it and had to step away before I broke something. lol

Anyway, I went rogue yesterday and against Ralston's wishes, I put my Actiontec gateway in bridge mode and installed a TP-Link router to handle the routing, wifi..

No luck with that either. So, I'm still stuck with the slow upload speeds on my PC and Xbox but I now have a more robust router to tweak things if I want.

I will say that the upload speeds through the TP-Link are a little better on the PC (now mid to upper teens from single digits to low teens) and only slightly better on the Xbox (now 6-8 Mbps from 3-5 Mbps )

Thanks again.
 
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Ralston18 said:
If you limit the number of available DHCP IP addresses then once that limit is reached no more devices can join the network until another device leaves the network. Then that DHCP IP address becomes available again.

At any given time there generally are around 7 - 8 DHCP IP devices on my network so I allow 10 devices. However at at recent family get together I had to double the DHCP IP address range.

I also have four network devices with Static IP addresses that are reserved via the device's MAC and the Static IP addresses are well outside the DHCP IP address range.

If the reserved devices are no longer around or rarely around you can remove them from the list.

I tend to take screenshots of the applicable router admin screens to capture IP addresses, MACs, device names etc. for reference purposes.

Compile your own list of devices, their MAC's and IP addresses. Could be duplicate or typo within the reservations.
Click to expand...
Did the limiting the number of DHCP IP addresses/devices as suggested and a few other things but nothing seemed to help.

See my post above for an update on where my frustration with this probem has landed me.
 
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Ralston18 said:
No problem with going roque.... :)

Likely you learned a bit more and have, in a sense, eliminated a culprit or two.

Delve into NAT

https://support.xbox.com/en-US/help/hardware-network/connect-network/xbox-one-nat-error

And for more about NAT:

https://dongknows.com/double-nat-vs-single-nat/#:~:text=Double NAT: When it doesn't work (well)&text=Specifically, a computer connected to,streaming, network backup, etc.

Lots of explanations and diagrams. Read while keeping your network in mind.

Also try this:

https://www.makeuseof.com/double-nat-error-windows/
Click to expand...
If it's Double NAT, I can't run it down. Xbox says NAT is open and will alert you if Double NAT is detected (which it doesn't).

Per the makeuseof Double NAT article, I ran the "tracert 8.8.8.8" command and checked to see if the first 2 hops were private IP addresses and it didn't appear they were. I am a bit of a networking noob though, so could be wrong but the second IP looked like a public one. It looked nothing like the first IP address and even had windstream in the result listing)
 
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Ralston18 said:
Another tool to try is pathping. Takes a few minutes to run....

= = = =

Private IP addresses are in three ranges.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-private-ip-address-2625970

Try to identify that second IP address via "Who is" etc..

Be careful as some such "identifier" sites may not be safe.
Click to expand...
According the lifewire.com private IP address listing, the second is definitely a public IP address. The IP traced back to Windstream.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Does that along with no Double Nat warning from the Xbox.... rule out Double Nat as an option?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The new TP-Link router only allows for a 48 hour DHCP address lease time and doesn't appear to automatically reserve IP addresses for specific devices like the Actiontec did, which makes it tough monitoring device IP's.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now a question about the above. There is an Address Reservation section to manually add a device's Name, MAC and a Reserved IP Address, so I added my PC and Xbox to it for easier monitoring... Do those two device's IP addresses have to be in the "IP Address Pool" range I set? They currently aren't in that range and are working fine but I don't want it causing an issue. Example of what I'm talking about below.

I assigned the Xbox the IP 192.168.0.100 and the PC 192.168.0.101. I set the DHCP IP Address Pool range from 192.168.0.102 to 192.168.0.117. Like I said, it's working, just want to make sure it's working right.

Router is a TP-Link Archer A7 https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/download/archer-a7/
 
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Yes - set the static IP addresses (Xbox and PC) outside of the allowed DHCP IP address range.

And if all is working then just do a screenshot or otherwise generate some sort of hardcopy list showing network devices by name, IP address, and MAC. My Linksys router presents a network map that has proven quite helpful for troubleshooting purposes. And other summary tables as well.

Keep for reference purposes and future troubleshooting.

The only problem might be if you need another static IP address: e.g., 192.168.0.102. However you can easily reconfigure the DHCP IP address range. Use the "100's" for static IPs and 200's for DHCP IPs for example.

[Note: They can be reserved by device MAC within the DHCP IP address range. However I prefer dedicated groupings (as above) that have some structure or meaning within the network. Not really necessary for most home networks and will likely just become unduly cumbersome. 100's for static, 200's for DHCP works for me. Simple.]

Again just limit the range to the number of your DHCP IP devices along a couple of extra IPs for guest devices allowed to join your network. Just increase the range for family get-togethers if and as necessary.

Another thing you can do is to turn on every network device, wait awhile and then run "arp -a" without quotes via the Command Prompt.

Hopefullly all devices will appear with respect to the 192.168.0.x range. Along with their respective MAC's.

Other IP addresses will be listed but they can generally be ignored.
 
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Ralston18 said:
Yes - set the static IP addresses (Xbox and PC) outside of the allowed DHCP IP address range.

And if all is working then just do a screenshot or otherwise generate some sort of hardcopy list showing network devices by name, IP address, and MAC. My Linksys router presents a network map that has proven quite helpful for troubleshooting purposes. And other summary tables as well.

Keep for reference purposes and future troubleshooting.

The only problem might be if you need another static IP address: e.g., 192.168.0.102. However you can easily reconfigure the DHCP IP address range. Use the "100's" for static IPs and 200's for DHCP IPs for example.

[Note: They can be reserved by device MAC within the DHCP IP address range. However I prefer dedicated groupings (as above) that have some structure or meaning within the network. Not really necessary for most home networks and will likely just become unduly cumbersome. 100's for static, 200's for DHCP works for me. Simple.]

Again just limit the range to the number of your DHCP IP devices along a couple of extra IPs for guest devices allowed to join your network. Just increase the range for family get-togethers if and as necessary.

Another thing you can do is to turn on every network device, wait awhile and then run "arp -a" without quotes via the Command Prompt.

Hopefullly all devices will appear with respect to the 192.168.0.x range. Along with their respective MAC's.

Other IP addresses will be listed but they can generally be ignored.
Click to expand...
Set up the reserved IP addressing for easier observation like what you mentioned (except I put the reserved IP's in the 200 range and 100 range for the DHCP). Still saw nothing unusual.
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So I tried resetting everything involved on the networking side (Bridged Actiontec gateway - TP-Link router - PC network adapter) and removed all connected devices except the PC to see if isolating it now would have any change on the upload speed but it did not. Same with the Xbox.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It almost has to be something on the PC's and Xbox's network adapter side of things at this point. Perhaps they got slightly damaged during during the storm or connecting them to my phone's mobile data hotspot changed something in them that can't be simply reset? I guess Windstream could be throttling the upload on those two devices only but I've never heard of them doing such.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Any harm in trying an external USB ethernet network adapter on the PC and see what kind of results it gives? Any problems removing one of those afterwards?
 
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No harm in trying an external USB Ethernet adapter. Just be sure to disable all other network adapters on the PC and that you install the correct USB Ethernet adapter drivers. Manually download directly from the manufacturer's website, install, and configure. No third party tools or installers., Be sure to use a known working Ethernet cable between PC and router.

As for "bridging" you should not need any bridging at all. If there are two routers involved then only one router should be providing DHCP IP addresses and DHCP disabled on all other routers.

Post a simple line diagram showing the current devices and the connections between them.

For example from your post #27:

Was hoping that putting the Actiontec in bridge (dumb) mode and letting the TP-Link router handle all the routing.... would be like a fresh start for all connected devices.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Port connections
PC - port 1
Xbox - port 2
Second PC - port 4

Nothing connected to the WAN/LAN port

Just expand a bit to include the modem, routers, and other devices. Do show ports as WAN/LAN.

I am not sure that I am correctly envisioning the current network map (topology).
 
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Ralston18 said:
No harm in trying an external USB Ethernet adapter. Just be sure to disable all other network adapters on the PC and that you install the correct USB Ethernet adapter drivers. Manually download directly from the manufacturer's website, install, and configure. No third party tools or installers., Be sure to use a known working Ethernet cable between PC and router.

As for "bridging" you should not need any bridging at all. If there are two routers involved then only one router should be providing DHCP IP addresses and DHCP disabled on all other routers.

Post a simple line diagram showing the current devices and the connections between them.

For example from your post #27:

Was hoping that putting the Actiontec in bridge (dumb) mode and letting the TP-Link router handle all the routing.... would be like a fresh start for all connected devices.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Port connections
PC - port 1
Xbox - port 2
Second PC - port 4

Nothing connected to the WAN/LAN port

Just expand a bit to include the modem, routers, and other devices. Do show ports as WAN/LAN.

I am not sure that I am correctly envisioning the current network map (topology).
Click to expand...
Will give the USB ethernet adapter a shot when I get the chance. The one I own is supposedly driver free.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just about everything I've read about using a gateway and a separate router, said to put the gateway in bridge mode, connect it to the router and let the router handle things from there.

Below is the instructions for putting the Actiontec gateway into bridge mode and current connection diagram.

How to Set the T3200 to RFC1483 Transparent Bridge
From the WAN IP Address screen, select RFC 1483 Transparent Bridging and click Apply. The gateway will allow the WAN IP address to pass-through to the device connected to LAN Port 1 Only.

Note that I also turned off all the wireless settings on the Actiontec so it wouldn't still be broadcasting it's signal....

Wall/DSL outlet --> Actiontec DSL port --> Actiontec LAN 1 port --> TP-Link Internet port -->TP-Link Ethernet Port 1 - PC / Port 2 - Xbox / Port 3 - Second PC
 
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RFC vs PPPoE.....

Bridges are used to connect two separate networks. Connecting two networks is not a requirement.

And as I understand the current environment and the current connection diagram a bridge is not and should not be needed.

This ActionTek Modem/Gateway?

https://www.actiontec.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/T3260ws_UserManual_PN0535_0137_0002.pdf

And the wall outlet DSL cable is connected to the green port on the T3260.

Regarding "Actiontec LAN 1 port --> TP-Link Internet port" the incoming port on the TP-Link being the WAN port.

Which model TP-Link Router/Gateway?

Unless I have missed something (does happen :) ) the ActionTec router should be using PPPoE and not RFC.... and with the ActionTec's DHCP IP address functions disabled.

Basically the Actiontec router simply becomes a DSL modem and the TP Link serves as the network's DHCP IP router/gateway and provides other gateway configured services.
 
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Ralston18 said:
RFC vs PPPoE.....

Bridges are used to connect two separate networks. Connecting two networks is not a requirement.

And as I understand the current environment and the current connection diagram a bridge is not and should not be needed.

This ActionTek Modem/Gateway?

https://www.actiontec.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/T3260ws_UserManual_PN0535_0137_0002.pdf

And the wall outlet DSL cable is connected to the green port on the T3260.

Regarding "Actiontec LAN 1 port --> TP-Link Internet port" the incoming port on the TP-Link being the WAN port.

Which model TP-Link Router/Gateway?

Unless I have missed something (does happen :) ) the ActionTec router should be using PPPoE and not RFC.... and with the ActionTec's DHCP IP address functions disabled.

Basically the Actiontec router simply becomes a DSL modem and the TP Link serves as the network's DHCP IP router/gateway and provides other gateway configured services.
Click to expand...
Windstream has moved away from PPPoE (at least in my area). Use to be that your Windstream credentials were needed to setup one of their gateways, your own modem or router but that's not the case anymore.
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Yes that's the Actiontec gateway that's been discussed since the start of this thread. And yes the wall outlet DSL cable is connected to the green port on it.
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For your question "Actiontec LAN 1 port --> TP-Link Internet port the incoming port on the TP-Link being the WAN port" - I used what was listed on the router's port (Internet) but yes it would be the LAN port.

TP-LINK Archer A7 - https://static.tp-link.com/upload/manual/2022/202208/20220801/1910012976_Archer C7&A7_UG_REV5.2.0.pdf
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Actiontec gateway (modem/router combo) is set to bridge mode (modem only mode) and the TP-Link router serves as the network's DHCP IP router. I don't know if you're thinking there's another gateway, router or what, but there isn't.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Article after article I've read says to put an ISP provided gateway into bridge mode if you want to run your own router. Especially to avoid double NAT issues.
One example - https://www.howtogeek.com/867942/what-is-router-bridge-mode/
 
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From the example:

"The most common reason people use bridge mode is to pair upgraded network hardware with their ISP-supplied modem-router combo unit. Historically many internet service providers (ISPs) supplied you with a modem, and you were on your own when it came to setting up a router and Wi-Fi access.

Now, it's more common for ISPS to supply an all-in-one unit that is both an internet modem, a router, and a Wi-Fi access point rolled together. So common, in fact, that many people don't realize that the modem and router functions are separate."
So in order to use your own router the ISP's modem/router (combo) must have its' router functions disabled.

However that is described or accomplished.

= = = =

The WAN and LAN port connections continue to interest me. Some devices have configurable ports....

On Page 9 of the Windstream T3260ws Manual, the port is shown as WAN/LAN

Check the Status screens starting on Page 14 of the Manual.

And look at the WAN Ethernet Status per Page 17.

Page 23 - Estimated Interface Statistics lists EWAN

Page 45 - Check those configuration settings.

From Page 47:

"47Windstream T3260 Gateway
How to Set the T3200 to RFC1483 Transparent Bridge
From the WAN IP Address screen, select RFC 1483 Transparent Bridging and click
Apply. The gateway will allow the WAN IP address to pass-through to the device
connected to LAN Port 1 Only."

[My underline.]

Unfortunately, some of those pages were blurry and hard to read. Seeing the actual pages via your browser may help clarify the the settings.

= = = =

Not sure what else to suggest.

Especially with regards to Windstream's policies and provided equipment.

Hopefully someone else will read through this thread and be able to provide additional comments and suggestions.

Maybe someone who is also WindStream customer.

Take another look at it all and post what you find. Use MACs as necessary to keep track of devices and IP addresses.
 
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Ralston18 said:
From the example:

"The most common reason people use bridge mode is to pair upgraded network hardware with their ISP-supplied modem-router combo unit. Historically many internet service providers (ISPs) supplied you with a modem, and you were on your own when it came to setting up a router and Wi-Fi access.

Now, it's more common for ISPS to supply an all-in-one unit that is both an internet modem, a router, and a Wi-Fi access point rolled together. So common, in fact, that many people don't realize that the modem and router functions are separate."
So in order to use your own router the ISP's modem/router (combo) must have its' router functions disabled.

However that is described or accomplished.

= = = =

The WAN and LAN port connections continue to interest me. Some devices have configurable ports....

On Page 9 of the Windstream T3260ws Manual, the port is shown as WAN/LAN

Check the Status screens starting on Page 14 of the Manual.

And look at the WAN Ethernet Status per Page 17.

Page 23 - Estimated Interface Statistics lists EWAN

Page 45 - Check those configuration settings.

From Page 47:

"47Windstream T3260 Gateway
How to Set the T3200 to RFC1483 Transparent Bridge
From the WAN IP Address screen, select RFC 1483 Transparent Bridging and click
Apply. The gateway will allow the WAN IP address to pass-through to the device
connected to LAN Port 1 Only."

[My underline.]

Unfortunately, some of those pages were blurry and hard to read. Seeing the actual pages via your browser may help clarify the the settings.

= = = =

Not sure what else to suggest.

Especially with regards to Windstream's policies and provided equipment.

Hopefully someone else will read through this thread and be able to provide additional comments and suggestions.

Maybe someone who is also WindStream customer.

Take another look at it all and post what you find. Use MACs as necessary to keep track of devices and IP addresses.
Click to expand...
I see an error I made about a question you asked in message #44 and my answer to it in message #45- For your question "Actiontec LAN 1 port --> TP-Link Internet port the incoming port on the TP-Link being the WAN port" - I used what was listed on the router's port (Internet) but yes it would be the LAN port.


I stated "yes it would be the LAN port" on the TP-Link router, when it should have said WAN. Sorry for any confusion this might have caused.

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And yeah, some of those pages for the Actiontec are impossible to really see what it says. Unfortunately, since I have the gateway in bridge mode I can't access it's interface via web browser.

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And thanks for the help. Maybe something will pop up somewhere one day and help me get things sorted.
 
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You are welcome.

If possible, make a direct wired connection to the Actiontec and then use a browser to directly access the Actiontec's admin screens via the default IP address.

Just the one connection.

Hopefully you will be able to see and read the interface screens by doing doing so.

A laptop would work nicely. And you could take some screen shots for future reference.

Overall, I am both skeptical and uncertain about the need for bridge mode - but I do not know Windstream.

Keep at it - at some point there may ba a "Eureka" moment.

Or someone else will post with other thoughts and ideas.
 
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Ralston18 said:
You are welcome.

If possible, make a direct wired connection to the Actiontec and then use a browser to directly access the Actiontec's admin screens via the default IP address.

Just the one connection.

Hopefully you will be able to see and read the interface screens by doing doing so.

A laptop would work nicely. And you could take some screen shots for future reference.

Overall, I am both skeptical and uncertain about the need for bridge mode - but I do not know Windstream.

Keep at it - at some point there may ba a "Eureka" moment.

Or someone else will post with other thoughts and ideas.
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Just a quick update. I finally got around to trying the previously mentioned USB network adapter and it still resulted in the slow upload speeds.

Don't know exactly what that result eliminates or points more to being the culprit but I guess it does add another layer to the mystery.
 
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