Custom Wooden Pc Case

[Rockergage]

For woodshop class i planned to make a pc case out of wood in the shape of a Tardis. I understand it is possible but i am wondering about what i should do. I plan to have the motherboard be on the bottom of the case, should i layer the walls or floor with something? Should i place the mobo up against the walls or should i stay and inch or half an inch away? I planned to be about 1ft by 1ft by 2ft for the case with the top part and the bottom walk up base be extra which i build afterwards, would my fans be good if i put them with two on the bottom pushing air through and up to air on the side where the fans will pull the air out. i plan to use some random Intel mobo, a 800W or 850W PSU, four fans, Intel i5 4690K, a GTX 980 or 970 *fans aimed towards to push air towards the other airflow, would this be adequate or if more fans would work? Two more questions, One i had plans to make the top light thing be the power button, i wanted to make it so i pushed on it, it would go down, it would power up and play the doctor who Tardis noise. Would it be possible for me to wire the lights into the PSU and the sound thing if i put in a sound card or a small speaker? Final question, for spacing i planned to put the harddrives in a separate sealed off area, so with a 12 x 9 mobo then the 12 by 3 area *if going by 12 by 12, i might change it to 13 by 13 and leave area for the sides or make room for walling*, would that be a good idea if i made sure they were secure, i planned to have them stand straight up too if that changes it.

 

[wicked_sticky]

Wood cases are fun to build. A few things ot remember/do. 1)the purpose of the case is to protect a comuter from physical and electrostatic damage, thats why theyre encaged in metal. A computer case is a faraday cage (look that up if you dont know what this is).
Wood insulates, wood also can store static energy. At the very least i you will have to screw or nail in a motherboard tray, then mount the motherboard to that. If you do want the electric protection you should line the inside of case with aluminum flashing or fine chicken wire (i only suggest those things because its to cheap at home depot, you can be creative and scrounge parts).
Wood is flammable and does insulate heat more than metal, youre putting fans in and that great make sure you add plenty holes so are can flow throw (maybe a giant hole/screen bottom). Lining the inside with metal will go a long way in preventing fire as well as zapping your board.

I cant picture the positioning by your description maybe adding a sketch would help either way make sure the ait flow is well positioned maybe 2 120mm fans on the bottom near the front, 2 exhaust fans on the back near the top.

I found the easiest way to make a wood case is to buy the cheapest atx case for sale (usually around $20) You can use snips (or if you have access to a dremmel/jug saw/cutting wheel of some kind) to cut out the part the mobo screws in and mount that inside your wood case. You can cut the panel and use them to line the inside of the wood case (and just use aluminum or chicken wire to connect the seems and fill in empty spots AND, you can take out the drive cages and re use them anywhere in your own case, making a drive cage with the screw holes and spacing all in the right spots is tedious.

 

[Rockergage]

Wood cases are fun to build. A few things ot remember/do. 1)the purpose of the case is to protect a comuter from physical and electrostatic damage, thats why theyre encaged in metal. A computer case is a faraday cage (look that up if you dont know what this is).
Wood insulates, wood also can store static energy. At the very least i you will have to screw or nail in a motherboard tray, then mount the motherboard to that. If you do want the electric protection you should line the inside of case with aluminum flashing or fine chicken wire (i only suggest those things because its to cheap at home depot, you can be creative and scrounge parts).
Wood is flammable and does insulate heat more than metal, youre putting fans in and that great make sure you add plenty holes so are can flow throw (maybe a giant hole/screen bottom). Lining the inside with metal will go a long way in preventing fire as well as zapping your board.

I cant picture the positioning by your description maybe adding a sketch would help either way make sure the ait flow is well positioned maybe 2 120mm fans on the bottom near the front, 2 exhaust fans on the back near the top.

I found the easiest way to make a wood case is to buy the cheapest atx case for sale (usually around $20) You can use snips (or if you have access to a dremmel/jug saw/cutting wheel of some kind) to cut out the part the mobo screws in and mount that inside your wood case. You can cut the panel and use them to line the inside of the wood case (and just use aluminum or chicken wire to connect the seems and fill in empty spots AND, you can take out the drive cages and re use them anywhere in your own case, making a drive cage with the screw holes and spacing all in the right spots is tedious.

Thanks for the tips, i do plan to layer the inside with aluminum probably. The case is in the shape of a police box or Tardis and is about 14 inches long, 24 inches tall with a base that pushes it up two inches and a top two inches with a tip in the middle that is about 4 inches tall.

 

[Signalll]

Sounds fun! DIY Perks did a video on his take on this case you may want to check out here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CB-_JIjhAyA

 

[Rockergage]

The dimensions are 14'' x 14'' by 24'' with two extra 'pryamid' bases for astehtics. I plan to router in holes for asthetics 4'' by 4'' onto each side to make it seem like the tardis except for the top two which will be either plexyglass wtih one side having fans. The plan is to set it on my desk as i don't want to worry about ti getting scratched up because it is built slightly for for style. So i also plan to build a new pc in it as part of it using the ASROCK Fatality MOBO, INTEL i-5 4690K, 8gbs of ram, GTX 660 for now planning to upgrade to a new GPU later, and a TB HDD. SO the HD i was using in my pc case and i never exactly got it running as the replacement i had planned it to be, *realizing later it wouldn't work as i had an OEM versions of windows* and was wondering about Windows. Will a refurbished copy of windows work? I see a lot of them and i understand they are meant for refurbished pc's and laptops but if its the difference between buying more RAM or getting a install disc for Windows i'd rather get the RAM or put the money towards the GPU. So will it work for a refurbished version of Windows? I also was thinking Oak for material as it is nice.

 

[wicked_sticky]

. Will a refurbished copy of windows work? I see a lot of them and i understand they are meant for refurbished pc's and laptops but if its the difference between buying more RAM or getting a install disc for Windows i'd rather get the RAM or put the money towards the GPU. So will it work for a refurbished version of Windows? I also was thinking Oak for material as it is nice.

These 'for refurbished pc' versions of windows are floating all over the internet for cheap, its to install windows on a used computer which already had windows installed on it (tracked by the motherboard serial#). These discs are not supposed to activate on a new motherboard. That being said; a lot people who bought these "as long as it comes with a new, unused windows key", reported it does work anyway.

For a new build (new motherboard) your're "supposed to" get an OEM or Full version - not the refurb version.




I got a new copy of windows 7 pro 64bit OEM from ebay for $65. There are quite a few out there.
They claim its new unused and comes with e a genuine key can be used to activate on a new PC I felt that was enough in the description to invoke ebay's buyer protection if it didnt work.
(if you go this route make usre it comes with the DVD, some are just digital downloads)

 

[Rockergage]

So I have made plans, oak wood is my choice for material as it has good heat resistance and doesn't absorb water too much which will be nice for if I accidentally spill water on it as I plan to keep it on the desk. It will have extra layering on the base and tip for one aesthics and to not have if liquids fall on top of it or if I set it down on unclean table will give me ease. I plan to paint it 0,58,111 going RGB order or around that number. Tardis color, I am getting an ASROCK Fat1ty for the motherboard *intel version*, Intel i5-4690k, 8gbs of ram, gtx 660, 750W gold+ psu, 1tb hard drive, and run steamos till I save the money for windows, a new graphics card, and maybe a disc drive. I might get one before j finish building it completely. I am going to have the "Front" side be open doors which open outwards. Installing four fans two bottom right or left and two on the opposite side.

I think the smartest choice will be taking sheeting a of aluminum and lying the insides, i am also considering making the boards half an inch thinner for ease for USB ports and the disc drive but I think that I'd rather keep it the inch thick. This would protect the heads of the cords a bit and would keep the cords from slipping out. Any answers or suggestions are much appreciated.

 

[wicked_sticky]

I used a roll of alumnim flashing for mine
(specifically this stuff http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-Home-Products-10-in-x-10-ft-Mill-Finish-Aluminum-Roll-Valley-68310/100054269)

You can also get away with metal chicken wire as a lining and stapling it down to the wood
(something like this on the inside https://i.ytimg.com/vi/nfC88nzqDWc/maxresdefault.jpg)

Are you mounting the motherboard into a tray or directly to the case?

 

[Rockergage]

I used a roll of alumnim flashing for mine
(specifically this stuff http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-Home-Products-10-in-x-10-ft-Mill-Finish-Aluminum-Roll-Valley-68310/100054269)

You can also get away with metal chicken wire as a lining and stapling it down to the wood
(something like this on the inside https://i.ytimg.com/vi/nfC88nzqDWc/maxresdefault.jpg)

Are you mounting the motherboard into a tray or directly to the case?

I think i have acquired a ATX pc case from the Tech guy at our school and i am going to try and convince him to let me rip it apart of the stuff i need. Thinking about making the one side with no fans or cables coming out of it able to swing open so i can edit freely.

 

[Franklin_4]

great project, hope to see pics one day!@ good luck

 

[wicked_sticky]

I used a roll of alumnim flashing for mine
(specifically this stuff http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-Home-Products-10-in-x-10-ft-Mill-Finish-Aluminum-Roll-Valley-68310/100054269)

You can also get away with metal chicken wire as a lining and stapling it down to the wood
(something like this on the inside https://i.ytimg.com/vi/nfC88nzqDWc/maxresdefault.jpg)

Are you mounting the motherboard into a tray or directly to the case?

I think i have acquired a ATX pc case from the Tech guy at our school and i am going to try and convince him to let me rip it apart of the stuff i need. Thinking about making the one side with no fans or cables coming out of it able to swing open so i can edit freely.

Most cases are put together by aluminum pop rivets, they are really easy to drill through (may not be the dimensions you need but if it is, its way easier than cutting the case). AND at the very least you can take use it's motherboard tray, or if its the cheap case, the back of the case the motherboard attaches to.

 

[Rockergage]

So I started to drill the rivers but sadly the case is mkcro but if I take out the tray could I just have the mobo stick out three inches or even add a piece of alumni in 3 inches long and drill holes in it?

 

[wicked_sticky]

Im going to assume mkcro is a typo and you mean micro atx right?
Put the aluminium under the tray so the part that sticks over isnt sticking over wood. If the tray has enough standoffs (the bolts the motherboard screws into, youre fine.

If it doesnt, just get the extra standoffs you need for the bottom (plastic or metal are fine, if sold individually theyre usually 10 cents each. you could drill them into the alumnim but i think its will be too hard to get the height and location 100% off. Easier option a drop of some sort of adhesive, or caulk on the bottom of the standoffs that stick out of the tray, you cna even use some doublesided foam tape (i order this stuff online but have never seen it in a store) dont get the ahesive on the motherboard. These extra standoffs are not 100% necessary but are used for stability and preventing the board from warping, overtime not having them could start causing issues. For a total cost of <$2 its worth the protection.

 

[Rockergage]

Im going to assume mkcro is a typo and you mean micro atx right?
Put the aluminium under the tray so the part that sticks over isnt sticking over wood. If the tray has enough standoffs (the bolts the motherboard screws into, youre fine.

If it doesnt, just get the extra standoffs you need for the bottom (plastic or metal are fine, if sold individually theyre usually 10 cents each. you could drill them into the alumnim but i think its will be too hard to get the height and location 100% off. Easier option a drop of some sort of adhesive, or caulk on the bottom of the standoffs that stick out of the tray, you cna even use some doublesided foam tape (i order this stuff online but have never seen it in a store) dont get the ahesive on the motherboard. These extra standoffs are not 100% necessary but are used for stability and preventing the board from warping, overtime not having them could start causing issues. For a total cost of <$2 its worth the protection.

So i think i am going to put the standoffs in, then put some adhesive under the standoff and keep it sturdy, any recommendations for adhesive?

 

[wicked_sticky]

see how much room between where the standoff ends and the aluminum. if the gap isnt too big get the cheapest thing that will stick to metal the generic stuff called "multipurpose adhesive" should be sold for 99cents takes a full 24+hours to harden but is good enough. if the gap is big you need something thicker, any sort of caulk from the hardware store rtv or silicone adhesive takes along time to cure but is always a good choice with electonics. dont go crazy looking for a specifc thing. if you have something around the house use it, anything will do as long as it doenst touch the motherboard.

 

[Rockergage]

So would small wooden blocks work just glued in work? Also using a couple psu calculators for newegg I got over 600w needed but for others I got under 500 at times. For an Intel i5, asrock fat1lity, 2 ddr3 ram, gtx 970, 4 120mm fans, and 1 1tb hard drive, which should I trust more, any ideas for psus?

 

[wicked_sticky]

wooden blocks glued to the standoffs would work, remember no wood or glue should touch the motherboard.


As for PSU The number of Amps on the 12V rail is more important than total watts as thats what the CPU and GPU use.
Ideally 45amps is what youd want but over 30amps on the +12V will be the minimum for running an I5 and GTX 970 (plus the other stuff) with no over clock. Almost any decent 500watt PSU will give 35-40+ amps on the +12V rail. (some PSU have multiple +12V rails, for those just add them up).



Get something decent 80+ certified, look up the PSU on here before buying anything

This is a good list but doesnt list a lot of PSU's
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2263985/power-supply-tier-list.html (get at least a tier 2)


This is a great tier 1 PSU excellent PSU if its within your budget
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095


This is a tier 3 500watt PSU id get something better but if Im youre on a tight budget it comes out to $39 after rebate and shipping
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438012

 

[Rockergage]

What should I do about the mobo touching the wooden walls?

 

[Signalll]

What should I do about the mobo touching the wooden walls?

Put something non conductive in between them

 

[Rockergage]

Alright so fabric or cloth probably, thanks.

 

[wicked_sticky]

DO NOT USE FABRIC!

Natural fibers are conductive. Wood is barely conductive. Cardboard is the best cheap option, newspaper is fine but obviously too flimsy, printer paper is conductive. Certain plastics are conductive certain are not (like what anti-static bags pc parts come in). Hardware stores sell non conductive spray paint like stuff for that purpose.

Just plain brown cardboard is the best option.

This isnt the best source, but its a start
http://www.theearthingstore.com/blogs/articles/18103739-what-materials-are-conductive


If you google how to run a motherboar doutside of a case, all the forums invariably say cardboard.

 

[Signalll]

DO NOT USE FABRIC!

Natural fibers are conductive. Wood is barely conductive. Cardboard is the best cheap option, newspaper is fine but obviously too flimsy, printer paper is conductive. Certain plastics are conductive certain are not (like what anti-static bags pc parts come in). Hardware stores sell non conductive spray paint like stuff for that purpose.

Just plain brown cardboard is the best option.

This isnt the best source, but its a start
http://www.theearthingstore.com/blogs/articles/18103739-what-materials-are-conductive


If you google how to run a motherboar doutside of a case, all the forums invariably say cardboard.

Great example of this, whenever I want to test a system outside of the case, mobo box(cardboard) is always my test bench.

 

[wicked_sticky]

DO NOT USE FABRIC!

Natural fibers are conductive. Wood is barely conductive. Cardboard is the best cheap option, newspaper is fine but obviously too flimsy, printer paper is conductive. Certain plastics are conductive certain are not (like what anti-static bags pc parts come in). Hardware stores sell non conductive spray paint like stuff for that purpose.

Just plain brown cardboard is the best option.

This isnt the best source, but its a start
http://www.theearthingstore.com/blogs/articles/18103739-what-materials-are-conductive


If you google how to run a motherboar doutside of a case, all the forums invariably say cardboard.

Great example of this, whenever I want to test a system outside of the case, mobo box(cardboard) is always my test bench.

Ditto I cut a refrigerator box to the shape of my work table and taped it on, whenever Im testing out a new mod, or heat sink, whatever, I just let the motherboard sit on the table while i run it.

 

[Signalll]

DO NOT USE FABRIC!

Natural fibers are conductive. Wood is barely conductive. Cardboard is the best cheap option, newspaper is fine but obviously too flimsy, printer paper is conductive. Certain plastics are conductive certain are not (like what anti-static bags pc parts come in). Hardware stores sell non conductive spray paint like stuff for that purpose.

Just plain brown cardboard is the best option.

This isnt the best source, but its a start
http://www.theearthingstore.com/blogs/articles/18103739-what-materials-are-conductive


If you google how to run a motherboar doutside of a case, all the forums invariably say cardboard.

Great example of this, whenever I want to test a system outside of the case, mobo box(cardboard) is always my test bench.

Ditto I cut a refrigerator box to the shape of my work table and taped it on, whenever Im testing out a new mod, or heat sink, whatever, I just let the motherboard sit on the table while i run it.

Haha nice!

 

[Rockergage]

DO NOT USE FABRIC!

Natural fibers are conductive. Wood is barely conductive. Cardboard is the best cheap option, newspaper is fine but obviously too flimsy, printer paper is conductive. Certain plastics are conductive certain are not (like what anti-static bags pc parts come in). Hardware stores sell non conductive spray paint like stuff for that purpose.

Just plain brown cardboard is the best option.

This isnt the best source, but its a start
http://www.theearthingstore.com/blogs/articles/18103739-what-materials-are-conductive


If you google how to run a motherboar doutside of a case, all the forums invariably say cardboard.

Great example of this, whenever I want to test a system outside of the case, mobo box(cardboard) is always my test bench.

Ditto I cut a refrigerator box to the shape of my work table and taped it on, whenever Im testing out a new mod, or heat sink, whatever, I just let the motherboard sit on the table while i run it.

Well i got a pile of cardboard decorating the living room might need to edit my walls thickness. currently i have it planned to be 14'' by 14'', 1'' thick giving me a foot by a foot area to work and the MOBO will sit in their snuggly, i might plane it to 15/16'' or 14/16''. The mobo came with an outer usb/hdmi label thing. Planning to glue small blocks of plywood for three standoff locations for the ATX screws that i don't have. I am going to get the PSU you recommended and buy 8gb of ram and a OEM of Windows as it seems that most people are successful with getting it installed *My luck it won't* but the price difference is litterally 80 to 40 dollars for a 80% or higher chance for it to succeed. Now i didn't really think of what to do with the PSU but i think i am going to make a "cage" for it and have it sit above the motherboard and might put a "shelf" above it... i just remembered that i made a shelf support that is 3" in width, 5" long, 7" tall i can probably get someone else's and cut them up to make a shelf. After i buy the wood and get the base made i am going to probably going to cut holes for the fans and inputs. I think one of the last things i need to do is get a Power Button planned, i would really like to stick with the whole Doctor who theme and do a momentary key switch so i turn it, the key is pushed back similar to a car and the computer turns on. unfortunately i need one side to be removal able for computer repair or upgrades and so i have the four sides. One for input, one for left side fans, one for right side fans, and one where i "planned" to do a power button. should i take from some of the aesthetics and put the power button on the side or even should i run a long cable up along the wall into the roof and have it stuck in the tardis lantern bit and i just have to open the lantern to push the button?

Post Script: Thinking it over having the powerbutton in the lantern is much more concealed and will leave me with the one side left that isn't bound to anything and will let me just slide it off with a little unscrewing. Then i can change it up if i need to and even observe it without having to turn the sides or anything as i don't plan to have any windows on it.