Question Dark rock pro 4 too heavy

[DiSspenser]

So I recently installed my new main board. I haven't had any issues but then the PC wouldn't boot . I have tried everything and came to the conclusion that my cooler is too heavy. If i would boot my PC while it lies on the side but if I would pick it up it wouldnt boot . If I tie the screws harder the PC won't boot. Could it be because I have a bent pin?I have fixed it by tying it with the case with a cable binder. But I'm not sure if it will hold for long. Any ideas on how I might resolve this issue. Thanks in advance
Full parts list :
I7 8700k
GTX 1070
Asus ROG strix z390-f
Be quiet pure power 11
Fractal design meshify c
Dark rock 4 pro
M2 ssd Samsung evo
Wd hard-drive

 

[Fix_that_Glitch]

Yes cranking down the screws on the cooler too much /cpu will cause the cpu to short out and not boot. Try combination of cross tightening the screws. Start at top left corner corner, tighten a little, then go down to bottom right corner tighten a little, then top right then bottom left. Continue this pattern till it is snug enough to keep it stable, but not so it keeps it from booting. There may be a little trial and error, but be patient. Or sell that monster and find a lighter air cooler, or go aio.

 

[DiSspenser]

Yes cranking down the screws on the cooler too much /cpu will cause the cpu to short out and not boot. Try combination of cross tightening the screws. Start at top left corner corner, tighten a little, then go down to bottom right corner tighten a little, then top right then bottom left. Continue this pattern till it is snug enough to keep it stable, but not so it keeps it from booting. There may be a little trial and error, but be patient. Or sell that monster and find a lighter air cooler, or go aio.

It worked with my last mainboard and it only has 2 screws to hold it in place

 

[kerberos_20]

it should have like 10 screws
4 screws (spacers) goes to socket frame, those should be tight
then u place brackets on top of those screws
then u add another 4 screws to tighten brackets
then u place cooler with 2 screws, here tighten it until it feels solid

 

[DiSspenser]

it should have like 10 screws
4 screws (spacers) goes to socket frame, those should be tight
then u place brackets on top of those screws
then u add another 4 screws to tighten brackets
then u place cooler with 2 screws, which should be also tight

And if I do that my PC won't boot

 

[kerberos_20]

then your backplate is hitting something on your mobo, use rubber if necesary
edit: your manuals mention some o-rings to be placed under backplate

 

[geofelt]

The DRP4 mounts similarly to the noctua NH-D15 coolers.
I have detected no such issue with them.
I suspect a mounting issue.
Go over the installation instructions again.
Did you install the rubber washers to the screws underside?
https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/be-quiet-dark-rock-pro-4-review,4.html

 

[Karadjgne]

Some motherboards have either components or solder joints on the back side of the mobo, right under where some backplate designs will contact them. You'd need spacers to raise the backplate above all that.

 

[DiSspenser]

I have done all of it. Rubber washers are in their position and nothing contacts with the board that shouldnt. I've reinstalled the cooler and nothing changed

 

[Karadjgne]

If the cooler is installed to specifications, as it should be, the cpu is seated correctly and there are no bent pins or compromises to its integrity, that leaves the motherboard itself as bunk. While it's as rare as an aio leaking by itself, it is possible that there's a cracked trace or bad solder joint in the mobo either in or surrounding the socket. Most times it's there and nobody is the wiser as there are redundancies built into the cpu/socket, so it's never seen, but this seems to not be the case here. It just so happens when the cooler applies downward torque pressure, the fault becomes evident and no boot.

You'll need to contact the vendor/manufacturer and see about rma process. It'd be like buying a new car and having to take it to a mechanic to get it fixed after driving it off the lot. It's not what you paid for.

 

[DiSspenser]

If the cooler is installed to specifications, as it should be, the cpu is seated correctly and there are no bent pins or compromises to its integrity, that leaves the motherboard itself as bunk. While it's as rare as an aio leaking by itself, it is possible that there's a cracked trace or bad solder joint in the mobo either in or surrounding the socket. Most times it's there and nobody is the wiser as there are redundancies built into the cpu/socket, so it's never seen, but this seems to not be the case here. It just so happens when the cooler applies downward torque pressure, the fault becomes evident and no boot.

You'll need to contact the vendor/manufacturer and see about rma process. It'd be like buying a new car and having to take it to a mechanic to get it fixed after driving it off the lot. It's not what you paid for.

Well it might be my last option but why did it work on the gigabyte Aorus gaming 5 ? I'm really confused. I tried everything again but same problem. Could there be a chance of a bent pin? But thanks for the help anyways

 

[Karadjgne]

It's always possible it's a bent pin, but pins don't bend themselves. You ask why the cooler/cpu worked on the other board? As I said, the new board is bunk. Same cooler, same cpu, new mobo, new issue. The only thing is either you bent a pin inserting it into the new mobo, or the mobo is bunk. The only way to ascertain that is pull the cpu back out and inspect it.