Delid my 2600K?

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TidusJames

TidusJames

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Sep 4, 2012
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Thinking about de-lidding my 2600K, as it stands, IDLE I get ~35C @4.4 on air, and ~58C under Prime 95 after 10hours. Would it be worth me delidding to go higher overclock? (I'm getting a water cooler when I upgrade everything in March when the (hopefully) GTX800's come out.)

Thoughts?
 
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edogawa
TidusJames

Please disregard what that guy says about the H series, he greatly exaggerates the noise, I have very good hearing and it does not bother me if it's on maximum. While on maximum it can be somewhat loud, you can set it to quiet making it only 1c-3c less effective. (I own one)

I would say replace the stock paste too. If you get different fans for the H100i, make sure they have a higher static pressure than the stock fans as they are already good with 4mm/H20.

Liquid all in ones may not be much more effective than a high end air heat-sink too, but you're paying for the cleaner look, and not having a heavy heat sink hang off socket.


Like I said, there will no noticeable difference between the cases in real world usages...
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Your temps are fine. The sandies all run great without delidding. I wouldn't do anything at this point - wait till you get your water system and see if it is needed. Personally, with those temps, I would not even switch to water.

Mark
 
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was unaware that delidding would destroy the chip, thank you for that information. The reason I would be getting a watercooler is because my case right now is jammed WAY too full, and only because its the Lanbo Air and I have 14 fans are my temps as good as they are, but I will be getting a Coolermaster Stryker (? the white one) and I dont think it will cool as well as my Lanboy with SLI and overclock and 6 HDs...
 
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You might be surprised by the cooling you will get. The best tip I could give you for air cooling is get high cfm/low rpm fans and have more intake than exhaust. Keeping positive pressure in the case makes a big difference. Cable management helps also as does keeping the dust bunnies at bay.

Mark
 
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Nah, it should be practically the same temperature wise. You should not see much of a difference going from one full tower to another full tower or mid tower to full tower as long as you don't have cables blocking the air flow. Only time you'd really worry about improving airflow in a case would be with a micro-atx or mini-itx setup; at least for a normal person.

Ambient temperatures and a clear path for air through the case will affect things the most. You do not need to fill a case fully with fans realistically too.

You can stick with your current heat-sink as it's performing optimally, buying a liquid cooler would simply be a waste of cash as you are already in a good temperature range.
 
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Have you ever looked at a lanboy Air? the entire case is Mesh. and i ahve fans in every possible position, 100% posative air. Dust has never been White glove noticable in my case, (two years). But with my new case, storm stryker, Im not sure if it will be as effective in regards to air cooling...
 
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What is your OC that you are running at 58C ?....my guess no more than 4.5 GHz. You can hit 4.8 , even 5.0 on air with a Phanteks PH-TC14-PE, Silver Arrow or Noctua DH-14 .... if ya can't, it's not the cooler's fault.

If by water cooling , you mean one of the closed loop jobs like the H series from corsair, you will see no significant difference in temps, but about a 4 fold increase in noise.

Skip to 2:00 minute mark
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/03/12/swiftech-h220-vs-corsair-h100i-noise-testing/

As for delidding....

1. it won't help as SB doesn't suffer from IB / HW fab issues
2. it will destroy a SB CPU
 
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By water cooling is was referring to the H100i, and as for noise, it cant be any louder then the 14 fan configuration I have now. So noise, if increased, wont be any bother to me. And I will be moving from a positive air case, with 14 fans to a closed case with only 4 stock fans: 3 120mm(1 back exhaust and 2 front intake) and 1 200mm the 200mm will be replaced with the Radiator from the H100i unless rather then top mounting the Rad I bottom mount it with a Pull config. The case will be on a table, so bottom mount WILL have access to air, rather then carpet.

thoughts?
 
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I have several builds here with as many as 12 fans and you can't hear them ... at all. Living with the H100 is like living next to an airport ....except no quiet time between take offs and landings. Its louder than my washing machine :) ... can't hear TV when it runs even at 2000, let alone 2600

The LANboy is an open air case....as such it has neither positive nor negative air pressure.

Finally, H100 comes in "behind" the Phanteks when both use stock fans and same thermal paste:

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/corsair_h100_hydro_series_extreme_performance_liquid_cpu_cooler,14.html

H100 - 52.5C w/ stock fans and no special paste
Phanteks PH-TC14-PE - 51.75C w/ stock fans and no special paste

However, this performance comes at a cost; noise. At 2600RPM, the H100 isn’t a quiet unit at all and similarly at 2000RPM, it can still be quite intrusive. In terms of performance per noise, high end air coolers from Phanteks, Noctua and Thermalright still reign supreme, contrary to Corsair’s own marketing. Like other ALC units, the H100 relies too much on high RPM fans for its performance when the goal of water cooling is generally for extreme performance at low noise levels.
Click to expand...

Many peeps change the fans to make it bearable, but w/o the high rpm fans, performance does down.
 
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What you are hearing is not the fans, but rather the air being pushed against the grills to the rad. I work with servers for the Air force, jet engines are a common noise for me, as are exceptionally loud computers. As previously stated, noise is of no concern.

In regard the the Phanteks cooler, If i was going to stay with air, I would stick with the Cooler I already have, seeing as it is giving me amazing cooling anyways, but I want to go with water, open the case up a little, make it look ALOT cleaner (current cooler:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118091)

In regards to Lanboy being an open air case... once again, I disagree. Not when you have 2 front fans, 2 right side fas, two tops fans, 7 left side fans and 1 back fan... all intake fans. THAT is a true posative air case.

Note: I also wear a Surround Headset and Use teamspeak 24/7 while gaming, another reason to not care about sound.

and on the h100i I wont be using the stock fans OR the stock paste, Ive got paste already, and I plan on using 4 Scythe fans if space allows.

Thoughts?
 
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This may sound nice in theory but in practice, having all intakes means you probably have little to no net airflow in some areas due to fans fighting each other: the positive pressure from other fans simply causes the fans' air to cycle through the nearest opening without going anywhere useful inside the case.

You would likely get better cooling results if you switched the rear fan to exhaust so it would draw air across the CPU area since most airflow around there is obstructed by the GPU.

With properly structured airflow on a "closed" case, you would likely be able to achieve the same cooling results with only 4-5 fans.
 
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TidusJames

Please disregard what that guy says about the H series, he greatly exaggerates the noise, I have very good hearing and it does not bother me if it's on maximum. While on maximum it can be somewhat loud, you can set it to quiet making it only 1c-3c less effective. (I own one)

I would say replace the stock paste too. If you get different fans for the H100i, make sure they have a higher static pressure than the stock fans as they are already good with 4mm/H20.

Liquid all in ones may not be much more effective than a high end air heat-sink too, but you're paying for the cleaner look, and not having a heavy heat sink hang off socket.


Like I said, there will no noticeable difference between the cases in real world usages. PC cases are pretty much already set to a standard layout and unless you change the layout you can only do so much. Set the h100i to exhaust in Stryker in push or push/pull and having air flow coming from front, and pushing the hot air up naturally.

 
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No argument there....never said it was the fans making the noise...it's the fans pushing the air thru the rads making the noise but what's the significance ? Slow down the fans, decrease the noise ....slow down the fans , decrease the performance.....

I understand that working around jet engines may have made you indifferent to loud noises but what is it that you expect to get outta the H series coolers ?...you don't get lower temps, you don't get lower noise, you get to pay more.....there simply is no "raison detre" .... the only thing you do get is ya can tell ya friends ya system is water cooled.

In order to have positive pressure ... you need to have a "vessel" to pressurize ....something to "hold' the pressure ..... with mesh on all sides, there is nothing to hold pressure. The tire in your car is under positive pressure.....a tire with a small leak is under positive pressure .... it's that pressure that forces the air out the little hole.....a tire that is blown out and has a 3" hole in the side is by no means under "positive pressure".

The paste that comes with the H100 was discounted in the tests because it is an extremely superb paste .... not using it will decrease performance as is described in the article.....I can't comment on the fans because I don't know which fans..... slower fans will give you thermal performance around 57C .... 6C behind the better air coolers....which could equate to maybe 0.1 to 0.2 Ghz in overclocking.

if you really want to WC, Id suggest a looking at the H220 .... 8C improvement over H100i
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWQGmX994fU
 
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-H220 isn't sold in the US anymore.

-I replaced the stock paste on my H100i and had lower temperatures by a couple Celsius.(Maybe mine was just bad, it looked a little to thin on my unit).

-You do get lower temperatures with the H100i over an air heat-sink(just slightly) You're paying a little more for the features associated with the product.

Jack is correct about the pressure too. The sealed environment must have greater pressure than the outside creating a positive pressure, any leak will make any pressure equate to the exterior pressure eventually, a tire for example as Jack put it is an example of positive pressure.
 
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Ok, The case can support the H110i, a slight step up for ~10$, its got 140mm rather then 120mm and the overall size is a little bigger therefor more surface space and slightly better cooling. Correct?

and yes, I dont want water for cooling performance, but rather a cleaner case... and as my current cpu cooler is so massive it causes the side of my case to bulge... and looks like shit... although it works well. Not to mention, its rather heafty to be hanging off my Mobo @ 1.32lbs.

I want unobstructed airflow that comes with not haing a massive CPU cooler. I want a cleaner look through the side window, I want My motherboard temp LED to be able to be seen and I want the glow from my led strips to reflect off the white of the case, not be blocked my a large ugly fin right in the middle.

as for fans, I would prolly use the four Scythes I ahve floating around, as they are thinner making push/pull easier and more likely to fitting, and have pretty decent static pressure (Yes, I am aware they are louder)

Thoughts?
 
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Which Scythe fans do you have?

I would pretty much say the H100i is what you want then, it will perform better than an air heat-sink, plenty of surface area, and look good inside your case. It won't be as good as an H220, but that's like 140 dollars more for 8C as Jack mentioned. If you want performance and looks than a custom loop will be better, but that will be quite a lot more.
 
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The H100i from what I seen is a scant bit quieter but not significantly different in cooling

As per the above linked video

Swiftech 220 - 58.5C
H110 - 66.3
H100i - 71.0

So the 110 gets ya about 37% (4.7c) of the improvement that ya would get from the Swiftech 220 (12.5C)

Other than color, ya wud be hard pressed to tell the difference between the H1xx from the Swiftech
 
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