Dell Dimension 8400 wont boot up

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Well inspected the CPU and it did not appear to have anything wrong or 'damaged' in the socket. It may still be shot?? GOMADFORIT said he re-pasted his CPU back in and this made the difference for him. Is your problem gone now GOMADFORIT? I'm not convinced it will in this case but I am willing to give it a try.
Just need to test the pins on P2 connection and if this does not reveal any issue, then it is off to the PC repair man to have a look at. At very worst, it may be replace motherboard and CPU, hope I can get away with something really minor. rgdz JT
 



Hi, is your 8400 still going OK? Was the re-pasting all you had to do and has it been fine since then? I'm keen to know. Was your problem intermittent? ie was it only failing on start up occasionally? Did it fully fail, that is stop booting completely before you tried pasting the CPU again?

Thanks John T
 


Is this still working? Sound too simple.

EdFresh
 
One night I left my 8400 to converting a DVD to iPod movie file. When I returned the next morning the fan was at what appeared to be full speed. I turned off the computer, turned it back on, and it wouldn't boot. I took note of the beeping pattern which turned out to be a memory issue. I pulled my memory out of the slots 2-4 and it booted once again. I checked each piece of memory in slot 1 and the computer fired up fine with each individually. I then tried slots 1 and 2, 1 and 3, etc. The only combination that works is 1 and 2, if there is memory in slots 3 or 4 the computer won't boot but the fan doesn't go crazy. If I have memory in all four slots the fan does go crazy. At this point I am living with only one stick (1gb) of RAM.

I am debating buying an inexpensive case with better cooling (Antec 300), cheap MB, new PS, and moving other peripherals over.
 
I was troubleshooting a friend's 8400 with similar/same problem as many of the others in this thread. However, his was nearly 4 years old when it started displaying the symptoms. Prior to not being able to start at all, it would intermittently not be able to get into the boot screen, with a solid amber light, and fan sounding like a jet engine. He blew out the dust in the CPU heatsink, but it was too late at that point.

When he couldn't get it to boot at all, he gave it to me to see if I could fix it. Temporarily replaced the power supply, memory, video card with no change. Placed the 3.4 GHz Prescott P4 in a known good socket 775 motherboard and that booted up just fine. Checked the capacitors and power supply connectors, and all those looked fine. Despite that, figured it was the motherboard.

Did a google search and found this thread. Thanks to JoeFriday for his tips about the problems with replacing motherboards in Dell systems. I took out all the components I could and put them in a cheap case with an inexpensive socket 775 motherboard and new CPU HS/Fan. Everything booted up fine. Reinstalled OEM Windows and activated it over the internet without a problem. Looks like a serious problem with the quality of components in this Dell system.

I guess that's where these OEMs make money, charge big bucks and try to get by with very cheap components. Troubleshot a Gateway for a friend a few years ago. The power supply was 150W, which was just barely enough to keep the system stable as delivered. Put in a low-power GeForce2 MX video card and the system would keep rebooting. You could add or change nothing to that system without a power issue. I had to also change out the microatx power supply to get it to work with the new video card.
 
I'm experiencing the P2 connector problem. I would say the image below shows the result of a faulty design by Dell as others have alluded to. Probably too much current is being drawn through this connector which leads to the overheating and damage.

P2Plug-BurntUp-sm.jpg

 


Did you ever figure out what it was...

I have the EXACT symptoms.

Namely, I can eventually get it to boot after which it is good for weeks -- unless I shut it off and wait for 1 hour or so -- Then it wont boot up without repeated effort...
Just beeps and high fan
 
I have the same problem...

About a week ago, my computer failed to boot and the cooling fan sounded like it was going to take off...
I measured the voltages from the power supply and they were ok...
I removed all unnecessary cards and CD/DVD players from the system - same results..
Sometimes it will boot and run for a short while... Sometimes, it won't even allow entry to BIOS...
I would guess a heat sensor is telling the system it has overheated... It seems to work when it is cool - till it heats up just a little..

I talked to DELL technical support, they said the motherboard has a problem. But, they wouldn't say what...
I asked about purchasing a new motherboard. But, DELL no longer sells it. I asked about a motherboard with a similar footprint... They wanted to sell me a new computer...

In the past, I tried to place a standard PC motherboard into a DELL case and had no such luck..
So, I'm guessing that I cannot purchase any motherboard to put in the case..
So, it looks like it will go the way of the junk pile.. 🙁
 
This thread is pretty informative. Too bad the fixes are all over the place!

I too had problems with my Dell 8400. The fan would go nuts and the screen would be blank. Lights were on at the back. Amber light on at the front. Pressing the power button would turn it off, but on restart the same thing would happen.

The first time I fixed it by replacing the video card as a cylinder had blown. This worked for about two months before the same thing started to happen. Fan at a zillion miles an hour. Blank screen. Over and over and over again.

This time I have unplugged all the cords and checked them. I have unplugged the video card. Nothing appears blown. I replaced it. I unplugged the fan. I have removed the heat sink the PSU and reinstalled the HS with new thermal compound over the PSU. I have taken out everything but the basic necessities. The fan still goes nuts and nothing boots to the screen.

After 4 years, I have had it with this computer, but have upgraded so many parts (4GB ram, 320 GB HD, 512 GB video card, TV tuner, etc), that it just pisses me off!!!
 
Had the Amber light problem with a refusal to boot up .. Called a knowledgeable friend and was asked to unplug all of my USB components just leaving the keyboard plugged in.
My Dell booted up in it's usual manner .. I shut down and plugged in the printer and it booted up OK .. preformed this procedure until I tried starting with my USB Hub, this is when I got the Amber light and a refusal to boot .. if you are having this problem, this procedure maybe helpful, it's an easy, fast, and cheap trick if it works .. gl Don R
 
Great thread and had to read all of the issues before diving into a DImension 8400.

Similar problem with the flashing amber light and no diagnostic lights on back. Did get the auxiliary power light on the mobo so that was a good sign and the 4-pin showed no signs of damage. No odor of burnt electronics, so far so good. Pulled all of the power connectors and check PS with tester and it checked good on all voltages.

Now it is down to the mobo or cards so I pulled all internal cards. Quite a bit of dust on the video card (NVidia GeForce 6 series) and noticed that the fan was slightly off kilter. Blew out all of the dust and the fan on the video card wouldn't turn with the air so I finger spun and it was tight. Fortunately had a spare video card (just so happened to be a similar card minus the fan) and put it in the system. Left all other cards out and powered up and it worked. Powered off again and plugged in the hard drive (minus the other cards) and it booted up just fine. Last test will be to plug in the remaining cards but first I need to go to customer to give him the good/bad news.

I have a few years under my belt (15+) troubleshooting airborne radar and IFF systems for the Air Force and the best thing about electronics is never assume anything. Isolate and test, isolate and test, and so on...
 
There are a lot of posts here - going back over a year- by people who have had what mostly appear to be power related problems.

First let me say that I had over 5 years of trouble free service from my Dell 8400 (from the hardware that is - had some normal software issues) and still use it as a media center pc.

I noted that maced62 mentioned "Quite a bit of dust on the video card". He did not mention the rest of the case - in particular the air intake fans/filters and psu intake fan - but it is a safe bet there was considerable dust there too unless he regularly cleaned those while ignoring the video card fan. I have known many who let their systems get extemely dusty - in fact some with that had systems for several years and never even thought of cleaning the dust inside or from intake ports. Not even after consistent increases in fan noise warned of an impending problem.

Dust of course restricts airflow and insulates heat and can increase the temperature inside the case considerably. In the the extreme case - increased temperature increases voltage (or maybe amps - been awhile since I studied this) which further increases heat in an escalating fashion.

I wonder how many of the power related problems (whether power supply, or burned connectors, or charred mobo, or blown capacitors) might trace back to a root cause of dust. I do not mean to belabor the point - just hope to make it clear to less knowledgeable readers of the importance of cleaning out the dust - off the electrical components but also out of the air intake and exhaust points as well. Since maced62 has considerable electronoics experience, this may not be his issue, but it may help save other readers from fates similar to some of the posters on this thread.
 
I have 1 of these bad boys! Dimension 8400.
The case and ventalation is crap first of all.
I regularly cleaned out dust, I doubt that was an issue w/my Hell, I mean Dell.
Any how it still works, but the Fan sounds like a Supra's Turbo hitting peak!
If I don't touch the machine is deaden's the fan, but if I click on an app it goes nutz!
This is especially more on the Windows side, on Abunto it runs a lot more smooth but
still gets noisy! I'm assuming it's the CPU (thermal grease?) or the air flow, I don't
bother too much as I built a new PC. Any how good luck to every one on this junk.
 
Gotta look at this, I had the same problem, but I took the computer a part and reassembled it one part at a time. First thing I noticed was that the on board battery was putting out 2.5v instead of 3.3v never once did the motherboard complain. Replaced it with new battery and replaced each compoinet one at a time, I don't know how I missed it but the chip on the modem was blown half off. Replaced it with a new one and it boots up fine.
 
Well, I've had the same problems with the steady amber light and the CPU fan sounding like a jet taking off. Sometimes after multiple tries, I could get the computer to start in which case I would just leave the computer on 24/7. However, I made mistake of shutting the computer down the other night and after hundreds of times of trying to start the computer, all I get is the stupid amber light and CPU fan take off. I've had enough of this crap Dell 8400 and decided to take apart the components and follow JOE's suggestion to start over with new parts.

However, I don't want to lose the data on my hard drive as it is running great. Is there any way that I can install the hard drive with a new MB and other components without having to reinstall Windows?

Thanks for your help and STAY AWAY FROM DELL!
 
No because it has drivers consolidated into O/S that are specific to the hardware in the old system. If you replaced with the exact same components (or maybe very similar - same manufacturer and similar model) AND were very lucky, it might.

However you do not need to lose your data. While you cannot boot from your old drive in a new system, you can install it in the new system as a non-bootable drive and read your data off it. Then, should you wish, after once having saved the data, you could reformat the drive and and start using it all over again as an additional drive - and copy back yoiur saved data if you so desired.

Alternatively, you could put the drive in another computer and do basically the same thing as above, and after saving your data and reformating the drive - put it into your new build and start fresh - reloading your O/S, drivers, and data from the old drive. However, with the low cost and larger size of drives today, I think I would get a new drive for the O/S and consider adding the old drive to the new system to store data. If it was 4 or 5 years old, I think I would only store items I did not care if I lost - such as copies of DVD discs I have, unless I knew this to be a short term use for just one or two years before I replaced it - in which case I would not be concerned.

The mean average life to failure on drives is something like 10 to 20 years, so statistically speaking, you should be able to continue using it without concern. But I would be hesitant. If it were newer, I would not worry at all. You might also run a quick Disc Check on it to ensure it is in relatively good condition.

Regarding Joe's suggestion, it does appear to be an excellent way to inexpensively handle a mobo problem. Are you sure that is what you have? Have you spotted damage on your mobo as others noted? It seems like quite a few ohter posters traced their problem back to other components. One thing you might want to do before purchasing a new mobo is to see if you can at least isolate the problem down to being mobo/cpu/memory issue.

To do the above:
1. First test your graphics card in another system, and if it works reinstall it.
2. Find another PSU so yours is out of the loop - can be a small one since it won't be running much - but should be one you know works fine.
3. Disconnect all components from the PSU
4. Disconnect - from the mobo - the HD and all peripherals, including optical drive, key, mouse, and any other peripheral components, especially USB devices - leave only the CPU, HSF, one stick of memory and the graphics card, with the latter connected to the monitor. And leave the power switch connected to the mobo
5. Connect the new PSU only to the mobo (both connectors if it has 2 - I forgot since it has been so long since I worked on mine "under the hood") and graphics card if it has one.
6. Turn on system and see if it boots.
7. If system does not boot - you can try it with a different stick of memory or replacing the cpu and hsf if you have some good old or borrowed components available - or maybe available cheaply from eBay if you are willing to invest the time and cost (and risk that someone may send a bad component while saying it is good).
8. If the system does boot, add back components one at a time to isolate the problem child, probably starting with the memory, keyboard, then the HD and on.

By the way, as I posted above, I have a Dell 8400 that has given me 5 years of excellent service - 4 as my main machine and 1 relegated to media center use after I upgraded to get a faster machine and chose to build my own. Since I bought the Dell on eBay for about $700, I think I received excellent value for my money - at about $11 a month for a computer that was fairly heavily used. I am sorry your experience has been a poor one.
 
Thank you so much for your quick response!! I've changed the PSU unit a while back when Dell Support told me that would correct the problem. To be honest, I'm not sure if it is the MOBO or not. It could be the heatsink based on what others have done to fix their problem on this forum. I will follow your suggestions to get the data on the HD. I just think that I'm ready to start over with a new build at this point.

The 8400 was a great unit, but it's just unfortunate that Dell put out such a bad unit that so many others have shared the same bad experience. I've had several Dells but this one and their support have really turned me off. Thanks again for your help, Rockyjohn. I will let you know what happens.
 
Lots of great information in this thread. Another displeased Dell Dimension 8400 owner here. I've had/have many of the same problems - racing fan, failure to boot etc Looks like I'll be trying to save the data instead of trying to save the machine. It looks like I'd just be throwing good money after bad. I've bought my last Dell.
 
I know this problem was posted years ago but I would still want to try to solve it. THe problem could very well be in the RAM or RAM slot. Take out the RAM, use a pencil eraser to rub on the metal contacts. Blow off excess eraser bits and reinsert RAM. This works 90% of the time on all my computers. I do this when there is power but the monitor does not display.
 
Gosh this thread was useful. Here I am posting my results, because I see this thread is still active and I suspect there are 8400 owners out there who will be able to use whatever info I post.

My machine was four years old, a 3.4 gig processor and 2 sticks of 1 gig ram on a Rev 00A system board bearing the part number with the "U" and the 7s and 0s. Original Dell-installed video was an nvidia 6800 GTO on which I re-enabled the fourth bank of processors, but which I did not overclock. Three years ago I replaced the 6800 GTO with an 8800 Ultra and installed a good aftermarket 650 watt power supply.

Three-plus weeks ago it started giving me odd crashes every other day or so, going to double black screens and a hard lock, no noise, nothing, requiring a 30-second push button reset.

It did this only when playing heavy use 3D games or when in the OpenGL screensaver. After it happened twice I set the system on its side and ran with the case open. After the first crash with case-open both the power supply and video card were quite hot.

I installed RivaTuner to monitor GPU temp, since the 190 series nvidia driver sets don't seem to have any option to do that. I found that the GPU was running at 77 deg C at IDLE! Not good. I set the GPU fan to run at 100% all the time, which dropped idle running temp to 60-61 deg C and full bore HD Fallout 3 temps when lots of atmospherics were up to 72-73 deg C. I also checked power supply output and found no significant drops in any of the output channels.

I figured a Windows Update -- which I had JUST completed -- had interferred with GPU fan operation. The problem went away for five days.

Then of course it came back, more frequent than ever.

On the weekend of the 5th the lockups' frequency increased to once every hour or two and happened irrespective of video usage or GPU core temp. The lockups happened at GPU idle. Reboots became problematical. With the case open I noted that some boots "failed" only because the video card failed to re-init. I could see this because the GPU fan didn't start. On a hunch, I waited a while, hit ctrl-alt-delete, entered the WinXP Pro password, and got the Windows sign-in song. Waiting a bit more, hitting alt-F4 and "return" got me a sign off tune. So... Windows was booting and the system was THINKING the video card was there, but the video card never started successfully.

I pulled the 8800 Ultra and rebooted, which gave me a long delay and then 2 beeps -- NOT a "no video song but instead ..... Memory error!

I was able to repeat this consistently.

I didn't have any video cards around to test. The 6800 GTO is in my wife's new machine and all the older PCI cards went to charity last year.... so I put the 8800 back in, let the system sit for a while unplugged, and then rebooted. It came back fine and ran for a few hours.

Last Sunday the system went 100% failure after a crash and REFUSED to boot no matter how long I waited. I pulled the system board battery, waited an hour, and got nothing at all with the video card and 2 beeps without.

Careful examination showed me that several of the bigger canned caps on the system board around the power entry points and memory were bulging a little. The memory is premium lifetime warranty stuff... and I suspect strongly -- but am not sure -- that the board is bad....

Yes, at this point I could have repaired the system for less by going with a new cpu and board combo in a new case, but (1) I wanted to recover the SATA/AHCI drives' data without any hitches, and (2) because of the proprietary software I run for graphics, software development, and CAD, I'm really restricted to a real Intel processor. (Trust me on this please. I know AMDs are just as good or faster for less bucks these days.) The easiest way to address (1) is to reassemble the same system with new parts, and it would be difficult given (2) to surpass the performance of the 8400 for a lower price point sticking to Intel CPUs unless apps are highly multithreaded.

The Dell 8400 system board failure is SO widespread you can actually go onto ebay and get "Dell 8400 System Board Repair Kits" full of electrolytic caps ... but I figure that's problematical. I really don't want to be soldering on this for an hour or two and then still have any problems. The only way to be sure, of course, is to dust off and nuke it from orbit.

Thus, I got onto ebay and ordered a New Dell 8400 system board from a guy with 100% feedback in Round Rock. It was much pricier than the "tested/guaranteed" units from Hong Kong, but it was new and 80 miles away. I ordered a used/tested 775 LGA 3.6 gig/2M L2/800 fsb Prescott P4 from a guy with 8000+ 100% feedback. The chip arrived in 2 days and the system board in 4 -- total expenditure about $150.

Last Saturday night I assembled the new CPU to the new system board, cleaned the heat sink in acetone and then with compressed air, and mated it to the new processor with some premium Antec silver content heat sink compound that cost five times what the regular compound did but which has an order of magnitude better thermal conductivity. I figured given the discussions here about the Prescott's heat, it couldn't hurt, and the difference was only four bucks at the local computer parts mart.

I installed the old memory, hooked up the drives, and used the old 8800 Ultra. I did replace the power supply with a new Corsair 750 I had previously ordered because it was on sale and I expected to build a new "ultimate" system sometime soon.

I hooked up the cables, flipped the switches, pushed the button, and almost immediately got two beeps.

I pulled the video card.

Two beeps.

Quite late I headed out to the local super Walmart, but of course they have only network bits now. It's been a few years since I looked for computer parts in the middle of the night, OK?

Sunday morning I went to BestBuy and found to my surprise that they had a reasonable price on an open box/warranty ATI Radeon 4850 1 gig GDDR3 -- a hundred bucks ( I would have preferred nvidia because I've dabbled in CUDA development, but if you follow the tech news over the past year you know that nvidia doesn't really have anything new below the top end stuff, and it would be VERY tough to match the performance of that 8800 Ultra....). While I was there I picked up four 1 gig sticks of PC2-6400 DDR2 SDRAM because their price was only a couple bucks a stick more than mail order. And I've been without the machine for a week and really can't wait another week. And I did already mention nuking it from orbit.

So I go home and install the ATI card. At this point, it's new system board, new power supply, new video, new CPU, old memory and drives.

Flip the switches and push the button... and I get a CPU fan trying to push the box into a full military power VTOL departure.

I never heard a CPU fan run that hard in my life. But I did find it discussed in this thread. Symptom of a bad video card, if I remember correctly.

New system board, new CPU, old memory, no video.

Two beeps.

That's ALMOST interesting.... OK.....

Old system board, old CPU, old memory, new video.

There go the Marines taking off again in their V22. Not a bad video card, methinks.

Old system board, old CPU, new memory, old video.

Turbines to speed, Batman!

I'm not going to play musical processors and switch CPUs and boards out. Once they're in the socket I don't want to pull them out unnecessarily. Besides, if the old board blew it might have taken the old CPU with it, as far as things look now.

So... whatever happened blew the system board OR CPU plus the video AND memory. Maybe one was iffy and then something else went. But all at the same time? Odd. But there it is.

Yes, I know how to build computers so why did I buy a Dell? At times it's more cost-effective to get a particular level of performance out of parts, and sometimes you get a deal on a box that someone else puts together. At the time I bought it the Dell 8400 was highly reviewed and it beat do-it-yourself by $200 to $400. At least in the short run it did.

Yes, I could have built most of a new, far more powerful system for about the same total cash, especially given that I had the power supply lying around. In fact, I recently DID build a killer system for just a little more than all the new parts plus the power supply cost ... my wife's new system for school: Asus M4A79T 790FX, Phenom II X4 945 Deneb, 4 gig DDR3, dual Caviar 640gig SATA in RAID 1, OCZ 700GXSSLI .... all in a nifty XCLIO case with greenish purple lit LIZA plastic fans a foot across. But in that case I wasn't worried about keeping data around. We knew we were upgrading so we backed it all up and threw away most of the old machine.

SO... if you absolutely must recover your 8400 you can do it, but if you can risk not salvaging the data on the drives run by the proprietary system board's SATA controller, you can indeed build a new and better system from the good scraps.

And I will never buy a Dell again.

- EP, San Antonio, TX


I know this problem was posted years ago but I would still want to try to solve it. THe problem could very well be in the RAM or RAM slot. Take out the RAM, use a pencil eraser to rub on the metal contacts. Blow off excess eraser bits and reinsert RAM. This works 90% of the time on all my computers. I do this when there is power but the monitor does not display.
 
Really usefull insight in this thread....here's my story.

Symptoms - Dimension 4700 which won't boot, amber power light and jet engine fan noise.

I removed all cards leaving only the PCIe graphics & 1 stick of RAM. Problem still the same.
I tested the graphics card and RAM in another machine and they worked ok.
I also tried a PSU from another working PC in the Dimension and problem was still the same.

After reading this forum i checked the Mobo capacitors for bulges etc and also the PSU P4 connector for charring. Both appeared OK.

So, i beleived it to be the the CPU or Mobo. Unfortunately deciding which was the problem, especially as postings on this forum have shown success (and failure) changing either of these.

I then discovered if i applied pressure on the heatsink and then pressed the power button it would try to boot - i got the BIOS display, beeps etc. I repeated this multiple times (i.e. with pressure it boots with a quiet fan, with no pressure the noisy fan is back and it won't boot. I found i needed to apply the pressure on the side closest to the CPU fan. It took quite a lot of pressure, if you pressed and released you would hear a "creaking spring" noise (hard to describe)

I also tried the same without the heatsink to prove the issue was between the CPU and socket rather than between the CPU and heatsink. Although you can't power up for long with no heatsink the PC did try and boot with the pressure applied.

So, basically i beleive my problem and perhaps others on here is down to plain old "bad connections" between the CPU and the spring contacts on the motherboard. I can't see how the CPU can be at fault as it simply has copper pads for contacts - i'm pinning my hopes on the theory that the socket contacts have lost their "spring" and are causing the issue. I have ordered another motherboard so we will see.

This maybe also explains why various people believe they have found a fix only for it to re-appear. The act of re-siting the CPU or re-fixing the heatsink may just improve the contact pressure for a while but eventually the problem returns.

Hope this helps someone....Guy
 
My 2 cents: Same problem as most, jet engine, no signal to monitor, no lights or beeps. Pulled out all but one memory module, was able to at least get blue screen of death, went in and changed HDD configuration on utility startup, put in other 3 mem modules; running good- knock on wood! I purchase an as-is mobo, cpu, and heat sink from Ebay, didn't change anything, tried everyone's tips and tricks - nothing, reverted back to old mobo and cpu and for some reason, this is when I was able to get to blue screen of death.
 
Excellent - and sadly long-running - thread,

My 8400 had been running normally. I powered it down and opened the case to add new memory - install was quick an uneventful (no sparks, etc 🙂, but the machine would not restart thereafter.

Analysis so far:
1. Power button and backside diagnostic lights are all OFF - no lights or blinking.
2. The single Motherboard LED does light up with power.
3. Reinstalling original memory changes nothing (though I'd think that a RAM problem would still allow PC to at least start POST).
4. All capacitors appear okay, with no bulges.

Diagnostic steps I've tried so far:
1. Per a Dell Community site posting, tested the power supply by removing the power cable to mobo and jumping the green and ground connectors - power supply turns on and CPU fan spins to high speed.
2. Replaced the CMOS battery
3. Swapped the W1158 power board and cable, and M5989 I/O USB/Audio Panel and cable with similar (though slightly different form factor) 88RXM power and 91NMP I/O ones I had on hand - still no power. This would seem to eliminate the switch path into the mobo, or I am wrong in assuming that - despite identical connectors - the parts are swappable?

I did order a second W1158 button before I got the other 88RXM part to test, so I am at least hopeful that the buttons are different, and another w1158 might work. Based on what I found here, I'm less optimistic.

In the meantime, does anyone know if or which pins on the USB cable connecting the M5989I/O panel can be jumped (like the P/S) to simulate the power button being on?

Any other diagnostic suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ramon
 
Well, I spoke too soon,

I completely disassembled the machine and removed the motherboard from the case. Upon very close inspection, I discovered that 4 of the capacitors that were behind the CPU and under the cooling fan had begun to rupture downward, with some leaking a bit of their contents.

I at least feel vindicated that my memory upgrade attempt didn't cause this (-:, though not realizing the ducting could be easily removed for cleaning (to lower temps) puts the blame back on me.

Will replace the mobo if I find one that's reasonably priced...
 
Well,

I bought and installed a new motherboard, swapped the CPU and cards...and got the same result - no light at power button, no sign of life other than the single green LED on the board itself.

I was certain the capacitors were bad on the old board ("popped" downward), but it would seem that the identical result would eliminate it as the problem. The only variables seeming left are the power supply and CPU.

As I said before, I jumped the power and ground pins on the power supply and it started - is that a valid enough test to confirm it's okay?

Another question: is it possible the CPU died? In other words, will a dead CPU really keep the PC from even powering up?

Thanks for any guidance.
 
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