Did Asus EZ Tuning do anything at all?

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steedsofwar

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Aug 22, 2015
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SKIP TO 'PROBLEM' BELOW for actual issue.

I am over 30 and finally got the courage to try my hand and build my own PC. So it's my first ever build and I'm plagued with lots of uncertainties, even though everything actually functions just fine, on the face of it. I am still learning, reading forums and watching lots of videos.

I'll be posting my separate issues as different threads or would it be better to list them all here? Please advise, admin.

Build:
Corsair 380T case.
i7 4790k.
MSI GTX 980TI.
Asus Z97i plus MOBO.
16GB 1866(?) Kingston Hyper X DDR3.
250GB Crucial SSD.
Corsair RM650 80PLUS Gold.
H100i with noctua f series pushing air out, low voltage cable connected.
Noctua s series 120mm exhaust, low voltage too.
Corsair 120mm x2 quiet editions for intake.
Oh, and an Acer XB270HU 144hz, 1440p G-sync monitor LOL.

Primarily for gaming, a new hobby of mine. I know I'm too old for this yeah yeah, I don't care. I'm studying animation so I'm planning to do lots of rendering and video editing in near future.

PROBLEM:

I don't understand the over clocking science fully, so I read somewhere that Asus EZ tuning is like a set of presets for noobs like me. So I followed the onscreen questions and it says it is targeting a clock speed of 4.5x GHz and core voltage of 1.3x. Is this safe or correct?

However, using hw monitor, cpuZ, asus suite III and windows task manager 'performance' tab, I'm not seeing these figures. Still shows 4ghz and I don't even know what voltage reading to look for as some it says vccin, vid, core voltage etc. CAN SOMEONE TELL ME IF EZ TUNING DID ANYTHING AT ALL?

I loaded prime95 v26.6 and ran small fft for ten minutes for each 'clocking preset' in EZ tuning and found that base preset (no clock) temperatures at idle are 30°c and prime at 70+C. EZ tuning higher preset (gaming mode, water cooled, Asus optimal setting, turbo enabled, speed stepping disabled, epu power saving disabled) I get idle at v high ~44°C and load at the terrifying upper 80s, kissing 90s! No BSODs or anything but I'm not sure if an over clock is applied as all I'm seeing is higher temps.

Playing BF4 for short periods sees CPU temp flattening out in the mid to lower 60s! The 980ti exact same temps too.

IS EZ TUNING HAVING A PLACEBO EFFECT?
WHERE CAN I SEE aCtUaL CLOCK SPEED AND VOLTAGE?
ARE THESE (44-90) TEMPS SAFE/NORMAL?
PLEASE SEE LINK BELOW FOR SCREENIES
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xikuy96wjb159aq/AADMQlpEF8VMMcqcly75GtZFa?dl=0

I appreciate it you guys, been reading and reading these boards for months and now need hands on help.

Cheers.
 
Solution
The Asus easy tune not only bumps voltage, but multiplier and BCLK. Multiplier is more likely 43 and BCLK will be 103.5 or better. While this isn't necessarily bad, per se, I'm not a big fan of BCLK being anuthing other than 100.0 even though cpuid can read some funky numbers during validation.
Damn, sorry man. At least that should take care of your temp problem though. Sucks to be out of comp for a week or so. Just go up in your name at the top of the page and click the tab by your name and go to tracked threads and then you can find this one and reply back to it once you get up and running again. We'll be around. Good luck.
 
@Reaper_7799 and @Karadjgne, thank you guys for your support. It makes all the difference between going for it and bottling it. I'm gonna try and install the stock Intel fan that came with the i7 and see how that fares. I'll be really interested to compare and confirm whether my h100i was installed properly to begin with. I always intended to reinstall the h100i as I have IC diamond 7carat thermal compound and some Arcticlean remover and purifier plus coffee filters at hand for this.

I'll probably be back in the thread if I find this fan can tolerate some mild over clocking.
 
Hi guys! I've now installed the stock cooler from intel. Although it is pleasantly quieter (than the h100i, even with quiet edition noctua mod) I found the temps idling at 36-42Celsius. This is with no clock I believe. Do you think I should be worried?

I have tried to increase multiplier to 46 and then to 45 and at lower voltages like 1.2v and 1.1v but prime95 v26.6 and OCCT were killing the chip at 100Celsius so I cancelled both those tests. I then went to default settings in bios and then reduced the voltage to 1.1v or less and ran the two tests separately (bclck was fixed to 100, turbo on, speedstep on, epu powermanagement on, c states on, anti surge enabled).

In this link you'll see my results. p95 completes the 10 minute small fft test maxing out at 90Celsius but staying in the steady 80s for most of the time. I feel that if the test ran longer, say for an hour, it would have fried the chip as the temps were still climbing, 90 being the last recorded temp.

And OCCT? Well, OCCT canceled the test as soon as the temps quickly exceeded 85-87Celsius.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rd981uyjsufwd8a/AABesEOgbHgcIgzT3TAJYvqGa?dl=0

Do you guys think I should RMA my i7? I think I may have been extremely unlucky with both my cooler and now my chip. My i7 is actually batch L4, supposed to be an improvement on batch L3 in regards to temps apparently. (BTW, why is AI suite showing MUCH lower temps as compared to Realtemp and HWMonitor?) Forget it. I think I need to RMA. Do you think Amazon will comply on these terrms? I mean, if I can't overclock or even run intensive tasks on this unlocked version of the chip then I may as well have saved money and got the non 'k' version of the chip.
 


Polite bump
 


I wouldn't RMA it until you see what happens with the new h100, the stock cooler you can't really overclock with and even stock clock speed and such is high temps. Gaming in a cpu intensive game at stock speeds will probably hit 75-80 but it's within threshold but way too high to do it all the time.

Ai suite does that, it always gives me different temps, which show lower but I think the sensor is from a different part is why.

EDIT: And your idle temps look about right on the stock cooler.
 
There's no need to RMA. The Intel stock cooler is built to handle normal - moderate loads and still keep the cpu under @70°. Occt, prime95 and other torture type tests put the cpu under full load tolerances, and occt with Linpack will simultaneously load upto 90% of your ram and with the memory controller actually part of the cpu, this can be a disaster to temps.

Turbo mode will take your cpu from 4.0GHz to 4.4GHz with 1 core, 4.3GHz with 2 cores, and 4.2GHz with all 4 cores running. This is cores, not threads. The i7 is hyperthreading capable and default is enabled. This means that usually 1 core = 1 thread, but with hyperthreading, 1 core = 2 threads. So in say prime95, instead of seeing 4 workers as is normal for an i5 or other quad core, you see 8 workers. This will jack your temps up some under load.

What you have is the biggest, baddest, meanest lga1150 cpu, and this comes with 1 downfall. It runs hotter than the others. No worries.

C-states is the sleep settings and voltages are applied by how deep the sleep. There are several layers, the deepest of which is so low voltage-wise, that it will cause problems with OC. Generally I set bios to allow sleep at S3 and that's it, so even sleeping, the pc won't almost totally zone to a state no different than a shutdown. You'll also have to fix this in Windows, under Power in control panel, or Windows itself will bunk an OC when you go for a smoke during a 1/2 hr p95 test. If you have hibernation enabled anywhere, get rid of it. Hibernation is for laptop use (when you close the cover) and sucks the life out of your ssd/hdd and ram, which has a net affect of killing OC performance with its incredible instability.

EPU isn't really energy management as such. It's 'green' energy conservation and it's job is to kill cpu processer power by limiting it to about 40% ability. That's an OC killer in a nutshell. Easy tune is part of the tpu operations. It's a performance booster that likes to add things here and there, changing settings etc. If you do want to use it (my EPU switch on mobo is dead center at very top of board, tpu is at bottom center) I'd do it through the Asus Suite software. It's a software OC which has settings for cpu voltage, line level, and others, and is a decent place to tinker. You could set 1 core for 4.6, 2 for 4.5, 3 for 4.5 and all 4 cores at 4.4GHz, which is still a 200MHz OC over turbo, but a lot less taxing on cpu and cooler. All this without constant reboots. You can save profiles, and leave. Bios at stock settings, so if prime95 does bring about a bluescreen, on reboot, you are back to bios settings.

Once you get a rough idea and some practical experience, then go into bios and start applying what you feel is safe, and work from there.

Remember, OC isn't just about clock speed or temp control, its all about You taking control of Your PC. With everything on auto, you are limited to whatever settings someone else has chosen and implemented through bios choices. The more you learn about OC, the more control You will have, and the more streamlined your pc will run. All this from watching some vids, reading some posts, clicking the mouse and you get faster, stronger, cleaner, cooler
 
That's reassuring to hear from both you guys. Really useful info there, Karad. I found that enabling c states on an OC was giving me blue screens, so thanks for that. I'm also gonna dabble with AI suite now.

Reaper, I'm gonna take your advice and wait for my cooler to be returned before I actually RMA the chip. Honestly though, I'm a bit spoilt by the low noise nature of the stock cooler.
 
With a properly functioning h100i, it'll be quieter than the Intel stock cooler. The ISC has @90w worth of cooling potential. Anything past @70% cpu usage will = @70° at which point your ISC will be at 100% rpm, which is not quiet. The h100i has @330w worth of cooling potential. At that same 70%, your cpu will be at @50°, the fans will be closer to 50% or about 1000rpm, which is audible, but still quiet. Temps, audibility, fan speeds can all be adjusted with fan curves, which can be set in bios, or are better set by either Asus fan software (recommended, its the best there is, can even set alarms on the pump if it drops below your setting speed, I set mine at 200rpm below what is normal operating speed) or by corsair link.
With the h100i, extreme is only a few °C cooler than balanced, which is only a few °C cooler than silent, and I've found that honestly, unless you are a cool freak, the 5-6° really doesn't matter as much as the db(A), (sound levels), so silent is usually fine.
 


Very true. I actually have AI Suite III doing my custom fan curves right now. I admit, I've dialed everything down to be VERY quiet. But like you've said, cranking things to higher speeds only drops the temps by ~ 6°C but at the expense of LOTS of noise. I had no idea about the alarm feature, which I reckon is well handy. I'll peruse the UI more carefully next time.

Lastly, I'm gonna try some AI suite tuning for a mild OC despite the ISC. See what happens. Making me eagerly await my h100i now. Honestly, I'm still stomped that this chip idles at 40°C! I keep reading others using the 4790k stating MUCH lower temps, such as the mid 20s or 30 Max on idle and mid 50°C under stress tests. They must all have custom water loops or something. LOL.

I'll report back in a few hours.
 


They do or water or a good air noctua dh whatever...remember you're on stock cooler so don't even think about comparing anything to it...it's nowhere near the same at idle or in gaming to even a hyper 212 evo. And since you don't know how long the h100 has been bad, all of your temp readings have probably been off since you installed it.

Before I put my 212 in push-pull, with a 4.6 overclock it was around 38 at idle, 47 while I was browsing lol and close to 60 in gaming. In push-pull it's a lot better now...30 idle 34-35 browsing and around 47-50 in heavy gaming.
 


That's a relief! I did try AI Suite as @Karadjgne advised. It is actually more visual than the BIOS UI. In any case, like you guys said, the SIC isn't cut out for OCing at all.

1. Without push/pull config on your 212, what were your temps at 4.6ghz OC? I appreciate your honesty, as I reckon a lot of guys are stating lower temps just to brag. Unfortunately, in my mini itx case, I can't squeeze dual sided rad system like that.

2. Unrelated but more directed at what Karad was saying re bios. My bios is essentially on default right now but if I perform auto tune in AI suite, will those settings override bios and stick despite powering down, etc? (after Auto Tune, I can then manually reduce core voltage, as that seems to be maxing at 1.32v on auto tune adaptive settings. It does go down to 1.2xv when it doesn't peak to 4.6ghz. I believe at 1.32v, I'm never gonna be able to escape the high temps thereby risking long term component degradation).
 
Honestly I think 50C during a full stress test like prime, is a little inflated or deflated. Some say in a good custom loop when gaming temps are at 40C and I could see that with a really good loop but with an aio like corsair or swiftech or whoever, I've seen a lot that still hit temps well into the upper 50's while gaming. Could it be they are just running high voltage or maybe don't have fan setups right or maybe wasn't installed correctly...of course but there are a lot in that range, which is why I haven't done it yet. I was kind of expecting low 40's but I think that's really only the custom loop guys that hit those temps when gaming. And I mean a cpu intensive game because other than say gtav, witcher3, crysis and far cry 4, my temps are around 45c, those games bump it up to 47-50.

I'll go test 4.7 Ghz in a little while and compare, I know my 4.7 Ghz temps before push pull was the 38-39 C at idle and 47-48 when I was browsing...it would only spike to say 48 for a second or two but my fans would turn on and it was annoying and then in gaming it was definitely around 60 or maybe even 63 in gtav or one of those games.

Now that I think about it, 4.6Ghz was I think around 36-37 at idle and 42-43 spikes while browsing and then in the 50's for gaming but mid 50's. I kept 4.6 for quite a long time cause I managed to get it down to a reasonable 1.25 V after some tweaking and didn't run 4.7 that much cause I didn't like those temps.
 


For the last part here...You perform auto tune through ai suite 3 turbov evo and then it asks you to restart right? When you overclock auto, it still stays in adaptive mode right and your max in adaptive mode is still that high at 1.32v?

In your bios, when you're set to default settings is it set in adaptive mode at that time or is it just an auto setting that doesn't change at all? If it doesn't change, try changing only the voltage to adaptive or offset mode first...however it's labeled for you and then come in and do auto tune after that.

When I auto tune, after being set on adaptive mode initially in bios, it tunes to 4.6 for 1 and 2 cores, 4.5 for 3 cores and 4.4 for 4 cores at a max of 1.22 V.
 
That's quite decent, many don't see 4.6 at 1.22v, my 3570k would do 4.3@1.208 and that was it. Wouldn't stabilize at 4.4 even with 1.4v . My 3770k is same batch number as other 3770k's that have hit 5.0GHz at 1.29-1.32v so I'm hoping this will also see good results after the lottery failure in my i5
 


Yeah, it's not bad but that's with 4.6 at 2 cores, 4.5 at 3 and 4.4 at 4 cores so if I run a straight 4.6 across all cores though, 1.25 is the lowest I can get. Wow that's crazy it wouldn't go past 4.4 but good luck with your new chip.
 


Sorry for the delayed replies. Just finished working the night shift. In response to above question, I'm actually not sure if it is set on adaptive/offset in bios when on default settings. I'll check and report back. But AFAIK, they simply state 'auto' when set to default in bios. However, after auto tune, AI suite says it's on adaptive and I can actually see the voltages cycling between 1.2v and 1.3v. So I guess auto tune enables adaptive, even if bios does not. I'm actually gonna go through your steps to see if I can replicate it. My hesitancy arises from the very obvious problem of how I can keep temps from skyrocketing. Perhaps I shall try again, just to see idle temps, since my last autotune would reach 100Celsius on air, when stressed by p95.
 
Check to see if in windows, when you set it at default in the bios, if the voltage moves or if it only moves after you go through auto tune. If it doesn't move then try how I did it and see if it will lower your voltage some. It may or may not though but worth a try.
 


Okay, I've gone and set bios to adaptive, cpu cache to adaptive, both on their original plus signs. In windows, using AI suite, did an auto tune. It said it 10% improvement made. bumped up to 4,6ghz, everything on adaptive. Please see three different scenarios below.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/722opq9cm1252ol/AAAbPoWxS-7JyMla614KoXIOa?dl=0
 


Well that's looking better, maxing at 1.23V but why is your voltage not dropping down in idle? That's your windows setting, I have mine set to balanced so that the min processor state is 5% in balanced but in performance mode it stays at the max setting all the time and voltage wont change.

Set it to balanced at least for now so that at idle it wont have 1,22V...mine idles at .800 Ghz speed and voltage is .77V. It doesn't slow anything down, it jumps to 4.6 in ms, so you don't even notice it's clocked down.

That should drop your idle temps down quite a bit and also help with light browsing, so those temps should also go down some.
 


Sorry Reaper but what are you referring to when you say 'in windows'? Also,, is balanced mode set in bios, as I believe i'm already on power saving mode. Or are you referring to AI Suite?

In any case I tried changing the offset sign from plus to minus and changed the value 'default' to a lower 1.x figure but I was getting reboots. I will keep tweaking and awaiting your response to above. Thanks for staying with me, man.
 


bT7vnq.jpg


You're welcome man. Like in the 3rd picture, I'm assuming that was taken at idle but it still shows your processor at 4.5Ghz so your voltage will stay high unless you set your min processor state to say 5% or 10% in the power settings, under balanced mode in control panel. Then it will clock your processor speed down if you aren't doing anything and your adaptive voltge will drop down also.

EDIT: If that was taken at idle and you have the min processor state alredy at 5% and it's not lowering your voltage, then there may be a setting in bios you need to change to have it do that but I'm 90% sure that speedstep and c states and all of that which help downclock to save power,etc should be turned on with default settings.
 
When it comes to power delivery, there's 2 places that are of main concern. The first is in bios, and concerns actual voltage amount specifics such as vcore, VID, dram, pll, line level calibration etc. The second place to look is in Windows. Namely control panel - power. Under this heading is what the pc power actually does. Here you'll find sleep settings, idle % settings etc. Some of these settings work on concert with bios settings, and some don't. In balanced mode default, your pc will 'sleep' after 15 mins of inactive input from user, whether a program is running or not, in high performance mode, the monitor will shut down, but pc stays awake. In bios, you can regulate the depth of sleep, but windows can change that, and this can lead to issues with Haswells and older psus as they can't handle the low voltage settings Haswell requires.

Eco (epu) settings can also have an affect, especially in oc, as EPU will regulate cpu performance, which will hurt stability of an OC cpu. EPU may be good for office settings where 100+ pc's are all on the same electric bill, but for a single OC pc, EPU is about useless, so be careful of power saving modes.
 


Aaaah Yes! I never thought power management would do anything for the voltage levels... I know how stupid that just sounded but you'll be very surprised how very few people make this connection. So, yes that third pic was of idle and as per your instruction, it is now idling at 0.7v and 799hz speed, so great tip indeed. Although temps are still in the upper 30s kissing 40 in idle, there is a reduction in temps during browsing just like you said. Kudos.