Question Different RAM speed in CPU-Z, on the sticker on the RAM modules and in the BIOS

[DanielThommen]

I wanted to upgrade my PC as it felt slow and laggish. So I checked and researched and put in 4 sticks of 4GB of DDR3 1333MHz (my motherboard accepts max 16GB and has 4 slots, I tried 2 x 8GB, that did not work, so I sent it back and got 4 x 4GB instead).

However,...
- CPU-Z shows: 16 GBytes with DRAM frequency 399.0 MHz
- BIOS shows: 16384 MB - DDR3/800 MHz - Dual Channel
- Stickers on the RAM modules show 4GB - 1333MHz
- Task Manager (under "Memory") shows 1333 MHz DIMM (right now, in use: 5.0 GB, available: 10.7 GB)

So the 16 GB is correct everywhere.
However, the frequency is not... Anywhere from 399 MHz to 1333 MHGz. I know that, because they're DUAL, the 399 MHz is kind of only half, so per cycle 399MHz (x2 = ~800MHz. Would explain the BIOS reading of 800 MHz per stick. But they should be 1333MHz, not 800MHz...

I am using Channel A with 2 sticks and channel B with 2 sticks, so my MOBO has 4 slots, 2 slots per channel, and I have 4 of the same DDR3 sticks in each slot, hence using both channels (A&B) with two 4GB each. All sticks are the same brand, the same manufacturer, the same speed (1333MHz) and put in at the same time with the PC off and power cable out, then restart and here we are.

The PC seems a bit faster than with the 8GB I had before, but not a bunch. And the MHz issue is bothering me...

Please help, what am I reading wrong?

Thanks for any help!

 

[Aeacus]

But they should be 1333MHz, not 800MHz...

MoBo make and model is?

RAM does not automatically set itself to the highest frequency. That, you have to do from BIOS, by enabling XMP. That is, IF the XMP holds and RAM is stable. If not, you're stuck with 800/1066 Mhz (whatever is stable).

All sticks are the same brand, the same manufacturer, the same speed (1333MHz) and put in at the same time with the PC off and power cable out,

But did all 4x DIMMs came in one, sealed package? Or did you buy them separately? E.g 2x 4GB + 2x 4GB? Or 4 times 4GB (e.g individual DIMMs)?

 

[DanielThommen]

MoBo make and model is?

RAM does not automatically set itself to the highest frequency. That, you have to do from BIOS, by enabling XMP. That is, IF the XMP holds and RAM is stable. If not, you're stuck with 800/1066 Mhz (whatever is stable).


But did all 4x DIMMs came in one, sealed package? Or did you buy them separately? E.g 2x 4GB + 2x 4GB? Or 4 times 4GB (e.g individual DIMMs)?

Thanks for your response!

MOBO Model is HP 3048h.

Per HP, MOBO accepts max 4 sticks with a total of 16GB (it also says that, even though it accepts 1333 MHz, it will run at max of 1066 MHz, so I guess my max speed will be 1066 MHz either way)...

I learned that the 4 slots on my MOBO accept max 4GB each, as I had 2 8GB sticks in beforehand, one per channel, one in slot 1 and one in slot 3 (as mentioned in the HP manual although I read somewhere else to always do 2 and 4, but I did not do that, HP clearly says 1 and 3). Didn't work, I sent them back and got 4 sticks with 4GB each.

The RAM came in the same shipment from the same seller, same sticker on it from the same brand. They were packaged in 4 plastic housings, so I got 4 plastic packages with each of them containing one 4GB DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600 1.5V stick.

Am I correct?: DDR is single speed. DDR2 is double-speed and DDR3 is quadrouple-speed? Kind of all new DDR version is around double the speed of the one before?
If so, that would mean that DDR3 (mine) would have double the speed shown in CPU-Z, hence 2 x 399 = 800 MHz, what the BIOS shows. Stick would be 1600MHz then but it is not as the MOBO accepets only max 1333MHz, hence why I got 1333MHz. But because of the DDR3 slot limitation on my MOBO of only reading 1066MHz, well it only reads 1066MHz...
Still would not make sense why BIOS and CPU-Z shows different numbers...

Thanks for clarification, if you have time! Greatly appreciated!!!

 

[DanielThommen]

RAM does not automatically set itself to the highest frequency. That, you have to do from BIOS, by enabling XMP. That is, IF the XMP holds and RAM is stable. If not, you're stuck with 800/1066 Mhz (whatever is stable).

So I will go into the BIOS and see what I can do there... Changing it to XMP (If I can find it lol)... Although in my Task Manager it shows me that my memory is running at Full Speed of 1333 MHz already... So do I need to try to make it faster than the RAM itself is made to run to begin with?

 

[SkyNetRising]

Am I correct?: DDR is single speed. DDR2 is double-speed and DDR3 is quadrouple-speed?

No. DDR is always double data rate. That's what DDR means.
At least for normal system ram (not talking about GDDR for graphics cards here).

If so, that would mean that DDR3 (mine) would have double the speed shown in CPU-Z, hence 2 x 399 = 800 MHz, what the BIOS shows.

Show screenshots:
CPU-Z - memory and spd sections.
(up[load to imgur.com and post link)

 

[Aeacus]

MOBO Model is HP 3048h.

Per HP, MOBO accepts max 4 sticks with a total of 16GB (it also says that, even though it accepts 1333 MHz, it will run at max of 1066 MHz, so I guess my max speed will be 1066 MHz either way)...

Looks like HP has scrubbed the MoBo specs from net, so, i can't look up from holy bible of PCs, what options you'd have in terms of RAM XMP in BIOS. Or which RAM DIMMs, at what speed would be compatible (memory QVL). Oh well.

I learned that the 4 slots on my MOBO accept max 4GB each, as I had 2 8GB sticks in beforehand, one per channel, one in slot 1 and one in slot 3 (as mentioned in the HP manual although I read somewhere else to always do 2 and 4, but I did not do that, HP clearly says 1 and 3). Didn't work, I sent them back and got 4 sticks with 4GB each.

Yes, that ancient MoBo doesn't support 8GB DIMMs. Max 4GB DIMM.

The RAM came in the same shipment from the same seller, same sticker on it from the same brand. They were packaged in 4 plastic housings, so I got 4 plastic packages with each of them containing one 4GB DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600 1.5V stick.

So, you got 4 individual sticks.

As of why all 4 doesn't want to work together at 1333 Mhz, further reading (especially 2nd, "mixed memory" chapter),
article: https://forums.tomshardware.com/faq...y-ram-and-xmp-profile-configurations.3398926/

There is a reason why i asked if you bought the RAM in a set or as individual DIMMs.
Have you ever wondered why RAM sticks are sold in a set? I take that you don't.

Explanation time:
When RAM DIMMs are made; same make, model, speed, CL and timings RAMs are tested with each other by RAM manufacturer and those sticks that get along well, are put into sets.
First set to be made is the set of 8x RAM sticks and sold as 8x RAM sticks in a set (e.g 8x 8GB, total of 64GB). If the set of 8 doesn't work, it's divided into half which makes up two sets of 4.
If the 4x RAM sticks do work together, the are sold as 4x RAM sticks in a set (e.g 4x 8GB, total of 32GB). But if the set of 4 doesn't work, it's again divided into half, making two sets of 2.
Two RAM sticks that work well with each other are sold as 2x RAM sticks in a set (e.g 2x 8GB, total of 16GB).
Those RAM sticks that doesn't want to work together at all are sold as single RAM sticks.

So, if you need 4x sticks of RAM, buy the set of 4. Sure you can buy all 4x sticks individually but chances of them all working together would be slim. If you'd get only 2x individual sticks, chances would be 50:50.

With DDR, DDR2 and DDR3, using individual sticks is quite lenient and RAM, for the most part, usually works fine. You can run into issues of RAM not achieving the max rated speed, if it is above JEDEC standard.

But with old RAM, all sorts of shenanigans have been made, e.g running 3x 4GB for total of 12GB or one 8GB alongside 4GB (again, for total of 12GB).

DDR4, in the other hand, isn't so forgiving. Getting different capacity sticks running in one machine is next to impossible. And getting individual sticks working together (despite them being otherwise seemingly identical), is also another headache. So, for DDR4, do get the set, if you need more than one DIMM.

DDR5, is looking to be more forgiving again. Big part of it is the fact, that for DDR5, you do not need 2x DIMMs to achieve dual-channel RAM. Instead, DDR5 is made such, where individual DIMM is already running in dual-channel configuration. This eliminates most of the issues when pairing individual sticks. Still, getting individual sticks operate above JEDEC standard (which for DDR5 is above 4800 MT/s), can still be 50:50 chance.

Am I correct?: DDR is single speed. DDR2 is double-speed and DDR3 is quadrouple-speed?

No. Far from it.

DDR = Double Data Rate.

1st revision of DDR (let's call it DDR1) clock rates were: 100 Mhz, 133 Mhz, 166 Mhz and 200 Mhz. But since the SDRAM is DDR, it's actual transfer rate is double of the clock rate. So for DDR1 at 100 Mhz clock rate, transfer rate is 200 MT/s. If it is 133 Mhz, transfer rate is 266 MT/s.

MoBo BIOSes and other software often doesn't show the transfer rate with MT/s, instead it is shown as Mhz. I don't know why this is so, but i guess it is to make it easier for consumers to understand. Then again, when you look RAM speed from the software that shows the clock rate, rather than transfer rate, you'd see half of what would be expected. And this is the source of confusion for many.

For DDR2, the clock rates are: 200 Mhz, 266 Mhz, 333 Mhz, 400 Mhz and 533 Mhz.
But since SDRAM is DDR, it's transfer rates are: 400 MT/s (often labeled as Mhz instead), 532 MT/s, 666 MT/s, 800 MT/s and 1066 MT/s.

For DDR3, the clock rates are: 400 Mhz, 533 Mhz, 666 Mhz, 800 Mhz, 933 Mhz and 1066 Mhz.
Where transfer rates are: 800 MT/s, 1066 MT/s, 1333 MT/s, 1600 MT/s, 1866 MT/s and 2133 MT/s.

For DDR4, the clock rates are: 800 Mhz, 933 Mhz, 1066 Mhz, 1200 Mhz, 1333 Mhz, 1466 Mhz and 1600 Mhz.
Where transfer rates are: 1600 MT/s, 1866 MT/s, 2133 MT/s, 2400 MT/s, 2666 MT/s, 2933 MT/s and 3200 MT/s.

There can be variations of RAM clock rates with DDR4, often higher than the standard. E.g my Kingston Savage RAM clock cycle is 1500 Mhz while it is currently running 3000 MT/s (my BIOS shows 3000 Mhz). There are DDR4 RAM DIMMs out there, that go as high as 4800 MT/s.

And for DDR5, the clock rates are: 2000 Mhz, 2200 Mhz, 2400 Mhz, 2600 Mhz, 2800 Mhz, 3000 Mhz, 3100 Mhz, 3200 Mhz, 3400 Mhz, 3600 Mhz, 3800 Mhz and 4000 Mhz.
Where transfer rates are: 4000 MT/s, 4400 MT/s, 4800 MT/s, 5200 MT/s, 5600 MT/s, 6000 MT/s, 6200 MT/s, 6400 MT/s, 6800 MT/s, 7200 MT/s, 7600 MT/s, 8000 MT/s, 8400 MT/s and 8800 MT/s.

So, where-ever last revision of DDR left off, the next revision started (more-or-less).

E.g: highest DDR1 is 200 Mhz, while lowest DDR2 is also 200 Mhz.
Highest DDR2 is 533 Mhz, lowest DDR3 is 400 Mhz.
Highest DDR3 is 1066 Mhz, lowest DDR4 is 800 Mhz.
Highest DDR4 is 1600 Mhz, lowest DDR5 is 2000 Mhz.

 

[DanielThommen]

No. DDR is always double data rate. That's what DDR means.
At least for normal system ram (not talking about GDDR for graphics cards here).

Show screenshots:
CPU-Z - memory and spd sections.
(up[load to imgur.com and post link)

I hope this works, did it the first time lol...

https://imgur.com/a/RvN3vJU

View: https://imgur.com/a/RvN3vJU

 

[DanielThommen]

Looks like HP has scrubbed the MoBo specs from net, so, i can't look up from holy bible of PCs, what options you'd have in terms of RAM XMP in BIOS. Or which RAM DIMMs, at what speed would be compatible (memory QVL). Oh well.


Yes, that ancient MoBo doesn't support 8GB DIMMs. Max 4GB DIMM.


So, you got 4 individual sticks.

As of why all 4 doesn't want to work together at 1333 Mhz, further reading (especially 2nd, "mixed memory" chapter),
article: https://forums.tomshardware.com/faq...y-ram-and-xmp-profile-configurations.3398926/

There is a reason why i asked if you bought the RAM in a set or as individual DIMMs.
Have you ever wondered why RAM sticks are sold in a set? I take that you don't.

Explanation time:
When RAM DIMMs are made; same make, model, speed, CL and timings RAMs are tested with each other by RAM manufacturer and those sticks that get along well, are put into sets.
First set to be made is the set of 8x RAM sticks and sold as 8x RAM sticks in a set (e.g 8x 8GB, total of 64GB). If the set of 8 doesn't work, it's divided into half which makes up two sets of 4.
If the 4x RAM sticks do work together, the are sold as 4x RAM sticks in a set (e.g 4x 8GB, total of 32GB). But if the set of 4 doesn't work, it's again divided into half, making two sets of 2.
Two RAM sticks that work well with each other are sold as 2x RAM sticks in a set (e.g 2x 8GB, total of 16GB).
Those RAM sticks that doesn't want to work together at all are sold as single RAM sticks.

So, if you need 4x sticks of RAM, buy the set of 4. Sure you can buy all 4x sticks individually but chances of them all working together would be slim. If you'd get only 2x individual sticks, chances would be 50:50.

With DDR, DDR2 and DDR3, using individual sticks is quite lenient and RAM, for the most part, usually works fine. You can run into issues of RAM not achieving the max rated speed, if it is above JEDEC standard.

But with old RAM, all sorts of shenanigans have been made, e.g running 3x 4GB for total of 12GB or one 8GB alongside 4GB (again, for total of 12GB).

DDR4, in the other hand, isn't so forgiving. Getting different capacity sticks running in one machine is next to impossible. And getting individual sticks working together (despite them being otherwise seemingly identical), is also another headache. So, for DDR4, do get the set, if you need more than one DIMM.

DDR5, is looking to be more forgiving again. Big part of it is the fact, that for DDR5, you do not need 2x DIMMs to achieve dual-channel RAM. Instead, DDR5 is made such, where individual DIMM is already running in dual-channel configuration. This eliminates most of the issues when pairing individual sticks. Still, getting individual sticks operate above JEDEC standard (which for DDR5 is above 4800 MT/s), can still be 50:50 chance.


No. Far from it.

DDR = Double Data Rate.

1st revision of DDR (let's call it DDR1) clock rates were: 100 Mhz, 133 Mhz, 166 Mhz and 200 Mhz. But since the SDRAM is DDR, it's actual transfer rate is double of the clock rate. So for DDR1 at 100 Mhz clock rate, transfer rate is 200 MT/s. If it is 133 Mhz, transfer rate is 266 MT/s.

MoBo BIOSes and other software often doesn't show the transfer rate with MT/s, instead it is shown as Mhz. I don't know why this is so, but i guess it is to make it easier for consumers to understand. Then again, when you look RAM speed from the software that shows the clock rate, rather than transfer rate, you'd see half of what would be expected. And this is the source of confusion for many.

For DDR2, the clock rates are: 200 Mhz, 266 Mhz, 333 Mhz, 400 Mhz and 533 Mhz.
But since SDRAM is DDR, it's transfer rates are: 400 MT/s (often labeled as Mhz instead), 532 MT/s, 666 MT/s, 800 MT/s and 1066 MT/s.

For DDR3, the clock rates are: 400 Mhz, 533 Mhz, 666 Mhz, 800 Mhz, 933 Mhz and 1066 Mhz.
Where transfer rates are: 800 MT/s, 1066 MT/s, 1333 MT/s, 1600 MT/s, 1866 MT/s and 2133 MT/s.

For DDR4, the clock rates are: 800 Mhz, 933 Mhz, 1066 Mhz, 1200 Mhz, 1333 Mhz, 1466 Mhz and 1600 Mhz.
Where transfer rates are: 1600 MT/s, 1866 MT/s, 2133 MT/s, 2400 MT/s, 2666 MT/s, 2933 MT/s and 3200 MT/s.

There can be variations of RAM clock rates with DDR4, often higher than the standard. E.g my Kingston Savage RAM clock cycle is 1500 Mhz while it is currently running 3000 MT/s (my BIOS shows 3000 Mhz). There are DDR4 RAM DIMMs out there, that go as high as 4800 MT/s.

And for DDR5, the clock rates are: 2000 Mhz, 2200 Mhz, 2400 Mhz, 2600 Mhz, 2800 Mhz, 3000 Mhz, 3100 Mhz, 3200 Mhz, 3400 Mhz, 3600 Mhz, 3800 Mhz and 4000 Mhz.
Where transfer rates are: 4000 MT/s, 4400 MT/s, 4800 MT/s, 5200 MT/s, 5600 MT/s, 6000 MT/s, 6200 MT/s, 6400 MT/s, 6800 MT/s, 7200 MT/s, 7600 MT/s, 8000 MT/s, 8400 MT/s and 8800 MT/s.

So, where-ever last revision of DDR left off, the next revision started (more-or-less).

E.g: highest DDR1 is 200 Mhz, while lowest DDR2 is also 200 Mhz.
Highest DDR2 is 533 Mhz, lowest DDR3 is 400 Mhz.
Highest DDR3 is 1066 Mhz, lowest DDR4 is 800 Mhz.
Highest DDR4 is 1600 Mhz, lowest DDR5 is 2000 Mhz.

I bought a set of 4 sticks of 4GB each, sold as a set on amazon, delivered in 4 plastic cases with each 1 stick in it, not a bigger plastic case with all 4 in one plastic case...

Amazon had it as:
Rasalas 16GB Kit (4x4GB) DDR3 1333MHz PC3-10600 PC3-10600U Non ECC Unbuffered 1.5V CL9 2RX8 Dual Rank 240 Pin UDIMM Desktop Memory Ram Module

Wow, I did not know about how they produce RAMs in the factory, with the 8x 4x, 2x and single set... Thanks for the enlightenment. I do not know how that manufacturer I got it from does their stuff but it was sold as a set but shipped in 4 different packages all together in one sealed envelope with the mark "4xset" on it... I guess they test it and then put everything in single plastic packages but put the ones that work together in one sealed envelope? My assumption, I do not KNOW per se...

I also JUST wrote a message to the seller on Amazon, asking whether they came from the SAME process or were just randomly put together in the factory (as they came in ONE sealed envelope with a sticker but each stick was packaged in a separate plastic case).

 

[DanielThommen]

If that helps, I found some webpages with info to my motherboard HP 30448h:

Hewlett-Packard 3048h @ HWBOT

HWBOT is a site dedicated to overclocking. We promote overclocking achievements and competitions for professionals as well as enthousiasts with rankings and a huge hardware database.

hwbot.org

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/699016/Hp-Compaq-6000-Pro.html

That's all I have...

 

[Aeacus]

I hope this works, did it the first time lol...

Works fine.

Based on CPU-Z, your RAM is running in JEDEC speeds of 400 Mhz clock cycle and 800 MT/s transfer rate. But your RAM also has JEDEC profiles for faster operation, like the #4 and #5. #4 is best, since it has lower CAS Latency than #5 profile, whereby both would offer 1333 MT/s (or Mhz) speeds.

HP system BIOS is usually very limited and you many not be able to change RAM speed at all, despite the DIMMs being capable of it. Just look around in BIOS and see if there is any option to change RAM XMP/JEDEC/frequency/speed.

as they came in ONE sealed envelope with a sticker but each stick was packaged in a separate plastic case

They still are 4 individual DIMMs then.

Here are pics how RAM sold in a set, looks like:

Spoiler: Pictures (click here to view)

This is the 2x 8GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX RAM set, that i bought for my Haswell build (full specs with pics in my sig), as a RAM upgrade.
This is how the RAM set looks on front.

Same set, with rear view. You can clearly see that both DIMMs came in one, sealed package.
Heck, it even says on the RAM label: "Kit of 2".

And here is what the new RAM replaced.
Above is old Crucial 1x 8GB DDR3 1600 MT/s.
Below is new Kingston 2x 8GB DDR3 1866 MT/s.

While what you got, looked similar to this, right?

Direct link if image doesn't load: https://www.overclockers.com/forums/data/attachments/186/186236-21baca89bb6c98737e5fe4ac6aeef118.jpg

Despite the amazon listing saying 4x 4GB,
link: https://www.amazon.com/Rasalas-1333MHz-PC3-10600-PC3-10600U-Unbuffered/dp/B09M8H9MS5
It doesn't state that they are sold as a set. So, you getting 4 individual DIMMs still does technically apply to "4x 4GB" as listing says.

Btw, i have never heard of Rasalas RAM brand and it's 1st time for me seeing blue PCB on a RAM. RAM PCB is usually green (value RAM) or black (high-end RAM).

 

[DanielThommen]

Works fine.

Based on CPU-Z, your RAM is running in JEDEC speeds of 400 Mhz clock cycle and 800 MT/s transfer rate. But your RAM also has JEDEC profiles for faster operation, like the #4 and #5. #4 is best, since it has lower CAS Latency than #5 profile, whereby both would offer 1333 MT/s (or Mhz) speeds.

HP system BIOS is usually very limited and you many not be able to change RAM speed at all, despite the DIMMs being capable of it. Just look around in BIOS and see if there is any option to change RAM XMP/JEDEC/frequency/speed.


They still are 4 individual DIMMs then.

Here are pics how RAM sold in a set, looks like:

Spoiler: Pictures (click here to view)

This is the 2x 8GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX RAM set, that i bought for my Haswell build (full specs with pics in my sig), as a RAM upgrade.
This is how the RAM set looks on front.

Same set, with rear view. You can clearly see that both DIMMs came in one, sealed package.
Heck, it even says on the RAM label: "Kit of 2".

And here is what the new RAM replaced.
Above is old Crucial 1x 8GB DDR3 1600 MT/s.
Below is new Kingston 2x 8GB DDR3 1866 MT/s.

While what you got, looked similar to this, right?

Direct link if image doesn't load: https://www.overclockers.com/forums/data/attachments/186/186236-21baca89bb6c98737e5fe4ac6aeef118.jpg

Despite the amazon listing saying 4x 4GB,
link: https://www.amazon.com/Rasalas-1333MHz-PC3-10600-PC3-10600U-Unbuffered/dp/B09M8H9MS5
It doesn't state that they are sold as a set. So, you getting 4 individual DIMMs still does technically apply to "4x 4GB" as listing says.

Btw, i have never heard of Rasalas RAM brand and it's 1st time for me seeing blue PCB on a RAM. RAM PCB is usually green (value RAM) or black (high-end RAM).

Hello again.

Thanks for all the pics and explanation!

Here is a link to pics so you see how I got the RAMs...

https://imgur.com/a/jvJFtMA

View: https://imgur.com/a/jvJFtMA


The first pic is a pic of the 4 sticks I took out of my machine, 4 x 2GB, total of 8GB. What I just saw now is that one stick says 12800U-11-11-A1 and the other 3 sticks say 10600U-9-10-A0... Don't exactly know what that means, but they're out of the machine anyway. They were blue.

Second and third pic show the package how I got the 4 new sticks (in single packaging but sealed in the yellow envelope with the "set-sticker" on it) and the 4 RAMs, also blue.

So, mine were always blue...? But again, old machine, perhaps that's the color of RAMs for old machines?...

I looked around in my BIOS for anywhere to change RAM XMP/JEDEC/frequency/speed, did not find anything.

So I guess I just have to live with it, not really that much faster, just 16GB now instead of 8GB before... Plus some virtual RAMs inside WIN I did before... But the speed isn't that much more, my MOBO just does not take anything more, I guess...

I asked the seller on Amazon about a REAL one set of 4 4GB instead of 4 single packaged, did not hear back yet...

Thank you for all your help, you took your sweet time to explain everything and I appreciate it!

 

[Aeacus]

What I just saw now is that one stick says 12800U-11-11-A1 and the other 3 sticks say 10600U-9-10-A0... Don't exactly know what that means, but they're out of the machine anyway.

3rd DIMM (when counting from above) for sure is different.
It has completely different part number (P/N).
It's timings are different.
And even it's clock cycle and transfer speed are different.

While 1st, 2nd and 4th DIMMs are PC3-10600 aka 1333 MT/s, then the 3rd DIMM is PC3-12800, which is 1600 MT/s.

Also, as far as i can tell, these 4 DIMMs came for 3 separate factories.

1st DIMM label says: Hynix Korea 05,
2nd DIMM label says: Hynix China 01,
3rd DIMM label says: Hynix Korea 07,
4th DIMM label says: Hynix Korea 05.

Korea 05, 07 and China 01, in my opinion, are different factory names.

So, for the very least, you have 3 different individual DIMMs. 1st and 4th one seem most closely matched, but that doesn't mean they were once part of a set. It just means those two were produced by the same factory.

So, mine were always blue...? But again, old machine, perhaps that's the color of RAMs for old machines?...

No.

Just test it out by yourself. Open up Google, type DDR3 into it. Choose Images and Search. You'll see that most DDR3 RAM PCBs are green. Same goes for older, DDR2 and DDR1 as well.

I did find few blue PCB DDR3 RAMs, but those are SODIMM (laptop RAM).
Why few RAM PCBs are blue - i don't know. But it is very strange to see it. (Knowing what i know about PC hardware.)

I asked the seller on Amazon about a REAL one set of 4 4GB instead of 4 single packaged, did not hear back yet...

They got from you what they wanted - your money. I don't think you'll be hearing back from them.

If it would be reputable RAM brand (Kingston, Corsair, G.Skill), it would be different story.

 

[DanielThommen]

3rd DIMM (when counting from above) for sure is different.
It has completely different part number (P/N).
It's timings are different.
And even it's clock cycle and transfer speed are different.

While 1st, 2nd and 4th DIMMs are PC3-10600 aka 1333 MT/s, then the 3rd DIMM is PC3-12800, which is 1600 MT/s.

Also, as far as i can tell, these 4 DIMMs came for 3 separate factories.

1st DIMM label says: Hynix Korea 05,
2nd DIMM label says: Hynix China 01,
3rd DIMM label says: Hynix Korea 07,
4th DIMM label says: Hynix Korea 05.

Korea 05, 07 and China 01, in my opinion, are different factory names.

So, for the very least, you have 3 different individual DIMMs. 1st and 4th one seem most closely matched, but that doesn't mean they were once part of a set. It just means those two were produced by the same factory.

Well, like I said those 4 (2GB) are out of my system, they were the old ones, replaced by 4 4GB sticks... The new ones (4GB) show all the same sticker as I can tell...

I can still send them back, free return with Amazon for 30 days, so we'll see whether they react and reach back out, if not, I'll send them back...

 

[DanielThommen]

3rd DIMM (when counting from above) for sure is different.
It has completely different part number (P/N).
It's timings are different.
And even it's clock cycle and transfer speed are different.

While 1st, 2nd and 4th DIMMs are PC3-10600 aka 1333 MT/s, then the 3rd DIMM is PC3-12800, which is 1600 MT/s.

Also, as far as i can tell, these 4 DIMMs came for 3 separate factories.

1st DIMM label says: Hynix Korea 05,
2nd DIMM label says: Hynix China 01,
3rd DIMM label says: Hynix Korea 07,
4th DIMM label says: Hynix Korea 05.

Korea 05, 07 and China 01, in my opinion, are different factory names.

So, for the very least, you have 3 different individual DIMMs. 1st and 4th one seem most closely matched, but that doesn't mean they were once part of a set. It just means those two were produced by the same factory.


No.

Just test it out by yourself. Open up Google, type DDR3 into it. Choose Images and Search. You'll see that most DDR3 RAM PCBs are green. Same goes for older, DDR2 and DDR1 as well.

I did find few blue PCB DDR3 RAMs, but those are SODIMM (laptop RAM).
Why few RAM PCBs are blue - i don't know. But it is very strange to see it. (Knowing what i know about PC hardware.)


They got from you what they wanted - your money. I don't think you'll be hearing back from them.

If it would be reputable RAM brand (Kingston, Corsair, G.Skill), it would be different story.

I saw on google that most of them are green yes. I do not know, I also thought that 240 PINs are Desktop and 204 PINS are Laptop (read that somewhere). So (blue ones) would have 204 PINs and would not work in my Desktop to begin with.

I can send them back within 30 days. But I just checked prices... Some of them brands you mentioned are over $100, when I paid for mine less than $30 (the 2 x 8GB I had before were even just $17, but they did not work, my MOBO doesn't accept 8GB per stick, so I had to go with 4 x 4GB for a MOBO max of 16GB).

I guess you get what you pay. But I just wanted to do as much as I could to give my machine more and additional life before WIN10 runs out of luck in fall 2025, and with RAM alone over $100 I would be close to buying a new (refurbished) machine, so $30 for RAM is already on the limit for my situation.

Used G.Skill Series 4x4GB DDR3 1066 PC3-8500 for $107.49 as example...

How do you know what brand is best? Experience I assume...

• Rasalas (what I got)
• Timetec (what I had with the 2 x 8GB, sent back)
• Samsung (would say thats a good brand, at least for my phone and TV lol)
• Motoeagle (the name?...)
• A-Tech
• TECMIYO
• Kuesuny
• OWC
• DUOMEIQI
• and so on...

Lots of trees in the forest...

 

[thestryker]

I'm assuming this is actually your system and not the all in one which was linked: https://support.hp.com/gb-en/produc...-compaq-6000-pro-small-form-factor-pc/4024462

The sticks you have do appear to have the right JEDEC profile available to run at 1066 like the manual suggests. You could try a single module to see if the clocks appear differently and if they do then that likely means not all of the modules contain the right profile. FWIW the BIOS and CPU-Z agree as to the speeds the memory is running at which would lead me to believe that's the accurate number.

 

[Aeacus]

Used G.Skill Series 4x4GB DDR3 1066 PC3-8500 for $107.49 as example...

Brand new G.Skill Ares 4x 4GB DDR3 1600 MT/s for $58.67,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007BEHO3E

I guess you need to know what to look for.

How do you know what brand is best? Experience I assume...

• Rasalas (what I got)
• Timetec (what I had with the 2 x 8GB, sent back)
• Samsung (would say thats a good brand, at least for my phone and TV lol)
• Motoeagle (the name?...)
• A-Tech
• TECMIYO
• Kuesuny
• OWC
• DUOMEIQI
• and so on...

Out of those brands, i know well Samsung and i think i've heard of A-Tech as well. But the rest are complete unknowns for me.

As of what brands are good; well: (reputable) reviews, followed by personal experience, are the ones that define the brand value for me. Oh, IT news as well.

For my personal brand preference regarding PCs, the list goes like so:

CPU: Intel
CPU cooler: Arctic, Noctua
MoBo: MSI
RAM: Kingston
SSD: Samsung, Crucial
HDD: Western Digital, HGST/Hitachi
GPU: MSI
Case: Corsair, Phanteks
PSU: Seasonic, Super Flower
Case fans: Corsair, NZXT
Case lightning: NZXT
KB: Corsair
Mouse: Corsair
Headset: Corsair
Webcam: Logitech
UPS: CyberPower
USB thumb drive: Kingston
Smart phone: Samsung

Of course, when suggesting hardware to others, i don't force my brand preference onto others. I also don't have any issue suggesting other, good brand hardware. E.g AMD CPU/GPU or Asus MoBo or Fractal Design PC case or G.Skill RAM etc.

Though, when it comes to the "best" brand, one needs to define if the "best" is due to the value (price to performance ratio) or due to the performance/reliability/durability.

E.g Samsung is best regarding SSDs (both SATA and M.2), whereby Samsung drives have top-notch performance and very good reliability and durability. But all that goodness also costs more than competitors. So, you can look towards price premium.
But if you look at value, then e.g Crucial SATA SSD, namely the MX500 model is really good. Almost equal to the performance of Samsung SATA SSD, while costing considerably less. Reliability and durability look also good. My Crucial MX500 1TB SATA SSD is now 6 years old and still is going strong. However, it does have a flaw as well. When you have it filled with data, the performance (read/write speeds) will drop considerably. But that's the cheap price for you.

 

[DanielThommen]

I'm assuming this is actually your system and not the all in one which was linked: https://support.hp.com/gb-en/produc...-compaq-6000-pro-small-form-factor-pc/4024462

The sticks you have do appear to have the right JEDEC profile available to run at 1066 like the manual suggests. You could try a single module to see if the clocks appear differently and if they do then that likely means not all of the modules contain the right profile. FWIW the BIOS and CPU-Z agree as to the speeds the memory is running at which would lead me to believe that's the accurate number.

I do not have the SFF version, I have a regular mid tower. But yeah, not the all included monitor with PC built-in, never liked those, one thing breaks and the whole thing is garbage...

The SFF and the MT (I have) work the same, just that the SFF has way less space to add stuff, therefore I do not like those either...

I will try with the sticks and see what it says. Thanks for your input!

 

[DanielThommen]

Brand new G.Skill Ares 4x 4GB DDR3 1600 MT/s for $58.67,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007BEHO3E

I guess you need to know what to look for.

I saw those but cannot use 1600MHz, my system is only 1333MHz and then running at 1066MHz (so the manual says)...

 

[DanielThommen]

Brand new G.Skill Ares 4x 4GB DDR3 1600 MT/s for $58.67,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007BEHO3E

I guess you need to know what to look for.


Out of those brands, i know well Samsung and i think i've heard of A-Tech as well. But the rest are complete unknowns for me.

As of what brands are good; well: (reputable) reviews, followed by personal experience, are the ones that define the brand value for me. Oh, IT news as well.

For my personal brand preference regarding PCs, the list goes like so:

CPU: Intel
CPU cooler: Arctic, Noctua
MoBo: MSI
RAM: Kingston
SSD: Samsung, Crucial
HDD: Western Digital, HGST/Hitachi
GPU: MSI
Case: Corsair, Phanteks
PSU: Seasonic, Super Flower
Case fans: Corsair, NZXT
Case lightning: NZXT
KB: Corsair
Mouse: Corsair
Headset: Corsair
Webcam: Logitech
UPS: CyberPower
USB thumb drive: Kingston
Smart phone: Samsung

Of course, when suggesting hardware to others, i don't force my brand preference onto others. I also don't have any issue suggesting other, good brand hardware. E.g AMD CPU/GPU or Asus MoBo or Fractal Design PC case or G.Skill RAM etc.

Though, when it comes to the "best" brand, one needs to define if the "best" is due to the value (price to performance ratio) or due to the performance/reliability/durability.

E.g Samsung is best regarding SSDs (both SATA and M.2), whereby Samsung drives have top-notch performance and very good reliability and durability. But all that goodness also costs more than competitors. So, you can look towards price premium.
But if you look at value, then e.g Crucial SATA SSD, namely the MX500 model is really good. Almost equal to the performance of Samsung SATA SSD, while costing considerably less. Reliability and durability look also good. My Crucial MX500 1TB SATA SSD is now 6 years old and still is going strong. However, it does have a flaw as well. When you have it filled with data, the performance (read/write speeds) will drop considerably. But that's the cheap price for you.

This is a very good list and I assume it comes from experience, thank you so much for it! I will keep this in mine when I buy/build a new PC with all the parts needed.

When I look at the reliability, both of my HDDs (2TB and 750GB) are over 15 years old and still going strong, no issues at all, all tests show "healthy".

Like I had cars they were top notch and then the same brand was a horrible monday-built lemon...

Thanks for your time you used to make up this list!!!

 

[Aeacus]

I saw those but cannot use 1600MHz, my system is only 1333MHz and then running at 1066MHz (so the manual says)...

While the 1600 Mhz is more than your MoBo will allow, the RAM has several JEDEC profiles built-in, and RAM defaults to any of the JEDEC speeds, that is stable.

So, buying much faster RAM, than system can deliver, for the most of times, is pointless. However, there is one reason where this is a good buy. Namely price (or availability).
DDR3 RAM is old and not many of them are around nowadays. So, when you have an option, if to buy 1066 Mhz 4x 4GB at $100 or 1600 Mhz 4x 4GB at $60, the faster, but cheaper RAM is better purchase (saves you money, while doesn't give any downsides).

Essentially same is currently going on with PSUs. Since modern GPUs use a lot of power, 750W PSUs are currently produced the most. This leads into a situation, where lesser capacity PSU, e.g 550W, is actually at same price, or even more expensive, than it's 750W counterpart.

Two examples:
Corsair RM750x (750W, good quality, 10 year warranty PSU) is cheaper than Corsair CX450m (450W, mediocre quality, 5 year warranty PSU) or Corsair CX600 (600W, low quality, 3 year warranty PSU),
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/Cfw323,FQ648d,6NcG3C/

Seasonic Focus GX-650 (650W, good quality, 10 year warranty PSU) is cheaper than Seasonic G12 GC-550 (550W, mediocre quality, 5 year warranty PSU) or Seasonic S12III-550 (550W PSU, crap quality, 5 year warranty PSU),
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/3G97YJ,RzfFf7,KPhv6h/

And only thing you'll loose by going with higher capacity PSU, is a bit of PSU's efficiency. Since PSU is most efficient when the load on it is 50%-80% of it's max capacity. But you can gain a lot: much better build quality, longer warranty, fully-modular cables and also saving money on PSU.

Like I had cars they were top notch and then the same brand was a horrible monday-built lemon...

Most brands have lemons along their lineup.

E.g regarding PSUs and Seasonic:
S12III series - crap quality
B12/G12 series - low/mediocre quality
Core series - mediocre quality
Focus series - good quality
Vertex series - good/great quality
PRIME series - great quality

So, with Seasonic, i always suggest getting either Focus, Vertex or PRIME series.
I'm also running 1x Focus and 2x PRIME units myself (back in the day, S12II and M12II EVO as well, which were good quality units, but as of right now, are obsolete.)

Or Corsair PSUs:
VS series - crap quality
CS series - low quality
CX/CXm/CXf/RMe series - mediocre quality
RMx series - good quality
HXi series - good/great quality
AXi series - great quality

 

[DanielThommen]

While the 1600 Mhz is more than your MoBo will allow, the RAM has several JEDEC profiles built-in, and RAM defaults to any of the JEDEC speeds, that is stable.

So, buying much faster RAM, than system can deliver, for the most of times, is pointless. However, there is one reason where this is a good buy. Namely price (or availability).
DDR3 RAM is old and not many of them are around nowadays. So, when you have an option, if to buy 1066 Mhz 4x 4GB at $100 or 1600 Mhz 4x 4GB at $60, the faster, but cheaper RAM is better purchase (saves you money, while doesn't give any downsides).

Essentially same is currently going on with PSUs. Since modern GPUs use a lot of power, 750W PSUs are currently produced the most. This leads into a situation, where lesser capacity PSU, e.g 550W, is actually at same price, or even more expensive, than it's 750W counterpart.

Two examples:
Corsair RM750x (750W, good quality, 10 year warranty PSU) is cheaper than Corsair CX450m (450W, mediocre quality, 5 year warranty PSU) or Corsair CX600 (600W, low quality, 3 year warranty PSU),
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/Cfw323,FQ648d,6NcG3C/

Seasonic Focus GX-650 (650W, good quality, 10 year warranty PSU) is cheaper than Seasonic G12 GC-550 (550W, mediocre quality, 5 year warranty PSU) or Seasonic S12III-550 (550W PSU, crap quality, 5 year warranty PSU),
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/3G97YJ,RzfFf7,KPhv6h/

And only thing you'll loose by going with higher capacity PSU, is a bit of PSU's efficiency. Since PSU is most efficient when the load on it is 50%-80% of it's max capacity. But you can gain a lot: much better build quality, longer warranty, fully-modular cables and also saving money on PSU.


Most brands have lemons along their lineup.

E.g regarding PSUs and Seasonic:
S12III series - crap quality
B12/G12 series - low/mediocre quality
Core series - mediocre quality
Focus series - good quality
Vertex series - good/great quality
PRIME series - great quality

So, with Seasonic, i always suggest getting either Focus, Vertex or PRIME series.
I'm also running 1x Focus and 2x PRIME units myself (back in the day, S12II and M12II EVO as well, which were good quality units, but as of right now, are obsolete.)

Or Corsair PSUs:
VS series - crap quality
CS series - low quality
CX/CXm/CXf/RMe series - mediocre quality
RMx series - good quality
HXi series - good/great quality
AXi series - great quality

So in that sense it doesn't matter to buy a (somewhat) bigger (more powerful, not "bigger in size" per se) PSU for a PC, as long as the connectors/cables that come out of it are the same (or use adaptors to make it work)...?

 

[Aeacus]

So in that sense it doesn't matter to buy a (somewhat) bigger (more powerful, not "bigger in size" per se) PSU for a PC, as long as the connectors/cables that come out of it are the same (or use adaptors to make it work)...?

Essentially, yes. If given that you buy good quality PSU.

Though, on PC side (or MoBo side), the PSU power cables are all the same, according to the ATX PSU standard. E.g 20/24-pin ATX, 4/8-pin EPS (to power the CPU), 6/8-pin PCI-E (to power GPU), SATA and MOLEX.

What does differ, regarding power cables, is the amount of EPS/PCI-E/SATA/MOLEX power cables.

Though, with fully-modular (or even semi-modular) PSU, do note that the pinout on PSU side is different between PSUs. So, never re-use power cables when buying new PSU with modular cables. Always use only the power cables that came with the PSU.

Also, never buy used PSU either. Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.
That also includes not to cheap out on PSU. Hence why i'm saying to buy good/great quality PSU. Now, mediocre quality PSU can do too, but ONLY in office PC that doesn't have dedicated GPU and never sees any high loads. Low and crap quality PSUs aren't worth your money.

As far as which PSUs are good and which aren't, you can always ask it in TH forums. Or read reputable articles that also include reputable PSU reviews,
e.g: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atxv3-pcie5-ready-psus-picks-hardware-busters/