I had a the same problem as OP. I was playing I game the PC froze and when I tried to reboot nothing. No boot beep, no sound, no video, no usb power. It pretty safe to say the mobo died. Most likely the SB chip burned. It was a fine setup for the time it run. No major problems, no BSOD or reboots. Even had it ran for 6-7 months with no reboot, constantly. Oh well, RIP.
- Status
Power on problems on this mother board are usually cause of bad memory timing or failed oc. The mobo is very buggy.
To the guy who had the motherboard that was beeping and wouldn't stop: Amoebaman, if you had read the posts here like you claim you would understand that the fact that you haven't tested your power supply means that you shouldn't replace it. More than likely since your board is beeping at a set frequency it's a RAM issue. I hope you didn't just run and spend money on a PS without getting a cheap tester and testing your old one first.
Attn:Westom
My assembled pc stopped working after 4 months of use. Same symptoms from the Op. I will learn how to test the psu using multimeter and post the numbers ASAP. One thing I noticed about the hdd, when I power up, i hear this clicking or short continous beep coming from the hdd. Im certain that it was not a post beep code because my mobo doesnt have speaker and my pc case doesnt have it either. I hope to hear from you soon
ty
Ps. It's hard enough posting through iphone. Please ignore my grammar!!!
My assembled pc stopped working after 4 months of use. Same symptoms from the Op. I will learn how to test the psu using multimeter and post the numbers ASAP. One thing I noticed about the hdd, when I power up, i hear this clicking or short continous beep coming from the hdd. Im certain that it was not a post beep code because my mobo doesnt have speaker and my pc case doesnt have it either. I hope to hear from you soon
ty
Ps. It's hard enough posting through iphone. Please ignore my grammar!!!
Disk drive contains its own computer. That computer has two inputs - power and messages on the data cable. Why the clicking? Well low or unstable power means the computer keeps going and coming out of power off mode. The only way that hard drive computer knows of power off - when voltage drop too low.
Meanwhile, this was the procedure to get a useful reply about the entire power supply 'system': Measure (and report to three significant digits) voltage on the purple wire where that wire connect to motherboard (push probe inside the nylon connector).
Also measure voltage on the green and gray wires both before and when power switch is pressed. Report those numbers and behavior as switch is pressed.
I expect these numbers to remain constant at zero. However these numbers are also important. Measure voltages on any one of orange, red, and yellow wires as the switch is pressed.
Every measurement is performed without disconnecting or removing anything. Anything disconnected or removed makes analysis difficult. Simply touch probes to the wires (ie inside the nylon connector). Then read numbers. When you press the switch and computer does not power - still measure as if the computer powered on.
when u turn on computer their is 4 light on front check how many r on
or off go to manual and get idea what is wrong
or off go to manual and get idea what is wrong
hey everyone I,m another. key things with me are as soon as i plug in it turns on then a quick touch to the power button turns it off instantly(almost seems backward). then it will not turn back on. i have to unplug it and plug it back in and even then it seems to have to reset before it will power on. oh ya basically same issues no monitor response(no bios), fans firing up though. I am willing to test(give the numbers) but i haven't flashed the bios yet. i was wandering if anyone has heard of these symtoms and what would be resetting? should i try and flash bios, or test wattage? i do have about 6 or 7 comps. sitting around and i've gutted mixed &macthed all of them and am not scared of the challenge but i still have yet to flash a bios(i've tried the cheasy way with the battery but don't think thats the same as jumping it) so thats why i wasn't quik to it.
GordonSoul
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- Nov 2, 2009
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Apologies for any lack of etiquette, being new to the forum.
I've read through the read with a view to whether it could give me any pointers as to whether it is worth persevering with trying to get my daughter's old system running.
It's been in the garage for quite a few months, supposedly dead.
I've dragged it out with a view to replacing the motherboard (and PC/RAM if they are also dead) but thought I'd fire it up and see what happens.
Well I do get a bit of life from it. The CPU fan powers up, the fan on the video card fires up but I get nothing else (although if I attach an old IDE HDD, I can hear it spinning).
I would have liked to just plug a VGA monitor in but as there is no VGA I/F, I've had to borrow the screen from my mac which does have DVI. Alas, I get no BIOS screen and the keyboard does nothing - not even a a caps lock light.
Also have reset CMOS and checked the CMOS battery (but would expect that would have no effect on getting a BIOS screen)
Any ideas? Spec follows
Gigabyte GA-8NA- SLI Pro (P4 3.28MHz)
nvidia GeForce 7600 GT
Corsair VX450 PSU (new - apparently there were sparks coming out of the original PSU)
Many thanks
Gordon
I've read through the read with a view to whether it could give me any pointers as to whether it is worth persevering with trying to get my daughter's old system running.
It's been in the garage for quite a few months, supposedly dead.
I've dragged it out with a view to replacing the motherboard (and PC/RAM if they are also dead) but thought I'd fire it up and see what happens.
Well I do get a bit of life from it. The CPU fan powers up, the fan on the video card fires up but I get nothing else (although if I attach an old IDE HDD, I can hear it spinning).
I would have liked to just plug a VGA monitor in but as there is no VGA I/F, I've had to borrow the screen from my mac which does have DVI. Alas, I get no BIOS screen and the keyboard does nothing - not even a a caps lock light.
Also have reset CMOS and checked the CMOS battery (but would expect that would have no effect on getting a BIOS screen)
Any ideas? Spec follows
Gigabyte GA-8NA- SLI Pro (P4 3.28MHz)
nvidia GeForce 7600 GT
Corsair VX450 PSU (new - apparently there were sparks coming out of the original PSU)
Many thanks
Gordon
Hi westom, please forgive my ignorance as I am not a hardware specialist.... but how do I test the voltage on the power supply? I have two computers that have the same symptoms, no post beeps, no bios, no video. Before I found this thread I tried changing out the power supply since I assumed that was the problem and yes you guess it since now I am here, this made no difference. So, I have a multimeter, with two probes. I have a power supply plugged into my motherboard etc. How do I make the measurements you ask for? I do not know which probe should touch what parts, and I don't want to make the problem worse. Thank you so much for any help.
Hi buddy, hi everyone, after reading most of the posts on here, your problem is the most similar to mine. yeah i have the exact same problem the other night. well my computer have been shutting itself down a few times for no reason so i decided to check it out to see what the go was. first i thought it was the power supply, so i replaced the power supply with the spare that i have in my old comp which still works fine. but that wasn't it. the power supply seems to be working ok but i get the constant beeping each time i turn on the comp. and there is no bios and video. i'm guessing it must be the motherboard. what aero_b posted up had given me some sort of hope, fingers cross. my motherboard is only 2 years old, is that the life of a motherboard these days? bloody rip off if u ask me
I have never had a board survive the low/dead battery. it is as if it caught a wavelength to death and never comes back... 3 times it has happened the same, manufacture does not matter.
some recap and play thier know how with them. I know that dead layer is in them, who is going to find it...what does it contain....
break the board in pieces and chuck it in the dumpster like used hard drive.
some recap and play thier know how with them. I know that dead layer is in them, who is going to find it...what does it contain....
break the board in pieces and chuck it in the dumpster like used hard drive.
That was the problem with my Motherboard! Thanks Phantomwriter!
That was the problem with my motherboard! Thanks Phantomwriter!
phantomwriter :
For anybody still looking for why the motherboard doesn't give any beeps, let me share with you this little tidbit I found in my motherboard documentation:
After you plug in the main power connector, there is another one you may have missed.
The second connector will either be an 8-pin or a 4-pin. This is the auxiliary power connector found next to the CPU and you do not need an 8-pin plug there unless you are using a high end CPU, or if the system will be overclocked.
Failure to plug any 4- or 8-pin connector will result in the system not giving out any sort of display or POST signals.
Once I plugged in the 4-pin connector, I got my beeps. Check your motherboard manual for the pin-out to see if this is what you might be missing.
Hope this helps
After you plug in the main power connector, there is another one you may have missed.
The second connector will either be an 8-pin or a 4-pin. This is the auxiliary power connector found next to the CPU and you do not need an 8-pin plug there unless you are using a high end CPU, or if the system will be overclocked.
Failure to plug any 4- or 8-pin connector will result in the system not giving out any sort of display or POST signals.
Once I plugged in the 4-pin connector, I got my beeps. Check your motherboard manual for the pin-out to see if this is what you might be missing.
Hope this helps
That was the problem with my motherboard! Thanks Phantomwriter!
billydomaks
Distinguished
- May 7, 2009
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- 18,630
sorry didn't read the above responses to see if they had already said this....but maybe cmos battery?
I'm going through motherboard crap too right now.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/267041-30-urgent-display-bios-post#t1859096
I'm going through motherboard crap too right now.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/267041-30-urgent-display-bios-post#t1859096
jsc
Champion
- Jul 14, 2004
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Sadly people, it's time for some adult leadership here. Has anyone noticed except for my post way up at the beginning (last year), there are no regulars posting on this thread?
I suspect that they looked at the chaos this thread devolved into, shook their head, and pressed the [IGNORE] key.
I am also surprised that no moderator has stepped in.
Basic forum rules: one problem per thread. If you are not the OP (original poster), start your own thread.
Now, I repeat:
Our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-posting-boot-problems
Anyone here with problems, go through the freakin' thread.
If that doesn't help:
After the checklist, try this:
Try to verify (as well as you can) that the PSU works. If you have a multimeter, you can do a rough checkout of a PSU using the "paper clip trick". You plug the bare PSU into the wall. Insert a paper clip into the green wire pin and one of the black wire pins beside it. That's how the case power switch works. It applies a ground to the green wire. Turn on the PSU and the fan should spin up. If it doesn't, the PSU is dead.
If you have a multimeter, you can check all the outputs. Yellow wires should be 12 volts, red 5 volts, orange 3.3 volts, blue wire -12 volts, purple wire is the 5 volt standby.
The gray wire is really important. It sends a control signal called something like "PowerOK" from the PSU to the motherboard. It should go from 0 volts to about 5 volts within a half second of pressing the case power switch. If you do not have this signal, your computer will not boot. The tolerances should be +/- 5%. If not, the PSU is bad. [strike]You do not need three digits. One decimal place is sufficient.[/strike] Apologies, westom. Three significant figures is one decimal place for the 12 volt rail.
Unfortunately (yes, there's a "gotcha"), passing all the above does not mean that the PSU is good. It's not being tested under any kind of load. But if the fan doesn't turn on, the PSU is dead.
On to the real troubleshooting ...
Disconnect everything from the motherboard except the CPU and HSF, the two power cables going to the motherboard, the case speaker, and the case power switch. Boot. You should hear a series of long single beeps indicating missing memory. Silence here indicates, in probable order, a bad PSU, motherboard, or CPU - or a bad installation where something is shorting and shutting down the PSU.
To eliminate the possibility of a bad installation where something is shorting and shutting down the PSU, you will need to pull the motherboard out of the case and reassemble the components on an insulated surface. This is called "breadboarding" - from the 1920's homebrew radio days. I always breadboard a new or recycled build. It lets me test components before I go through the trouble of installing them in a case.
It will look something like this:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/page-262730_13_0.html
You can turn on the PC by shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes on.
If you get the long beeps, add a stick of RAM. Boot. The beep pattern should change to one long and two or three short beeps. Silence indicates that the RAM is shorting out the PSU (very rare). Long single beeps indicates that the BIOS does not recognize the presence of the RAM.
If you get the one long and two or three short beeps, test the rest of the RAM. If good, install the video card and any needed power cables and plug in the monitor. If the video card is good, the system should successfully POST (one short beep, usually) and you will see the boot screen and messages.
Note - an inadequate PSU will cause a failure here or any step later.
Note - you do not need drives, keyboard, or monitor to successfully POST (generally a single short beep).
If you successfully POST, start plugging in the rest of the components, one at a time.
If you are puzzled or still do not have any success, come on back. Just remember: one problem per thread.
I suspect that they looked at the chaos this thread devolved into, shook their head, and pressed the [IGNORE] key.
I am also surprised that no moderator has stepped in.
Basic forum rules: one problem per thread. If you are not the OP (original poster), start your own thread.
Now, I repeat:
Our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-posting-boot-problems
Anyone here with problems, go through the freakin' thread.
If that doesn't help:
After the checklist, try this:
Try to verify (as well as you can) that the PSU works. If you have a multimeter, you can do a rough checkout of a PSU using the "paper clip trick". You plug the bare PSU into the wall. Insert a paper clip into the green wire pin and one of the black wire pins beside it. That's how the case power switch works. It applies a ground to the green wire. Turn on the PSU and the fan should spin up. If it doesn't, the PSU is dead.
If you have a multimeter, you can check all the outputs. Yellow wires should be 12 volts, red 5 volts, orange 3.3 volts, blue wire -12 volts, purple wire is the 5 volt standby.
The gray wire is really important. It sends a control signal called something like "PowerOK" from the PSU to the motherboard. It should go from 0 volts to about 5 volts within a half second of pressing the case power switch. If you do not have this signal, your computer will not boot. The tolerances should be +/- 5%. If not, the PSU is bad. [strike]You do not need three digits. One decimal place is sufficient.[/strike] Apologies, westom. Three significant figures is one decimal place for the 12 volt rail.
Unfortunately (yes, there's a "gotcha"), passing all the above does not mean that the PSU is good. It's not being tested under any kind of load. But if the fan doesn't turn on, the PSU is dead.
On to the real troubleshooting ...
Disconnect everything from the motherboard except the CPU and HSF, the two power cables going to the motherboard, the case speaker, and the case power switch. Boot. You should hear a series of long single beeps indicating missing memory. Silence here indicates, in probable order, a bad PSU, motherboard, or CPU - or a bad installation where something is shorting and shutting down the PSU.
To eliminate the possibility of a bad installation where something is shorting and shutting down the PSU, you will need to pull the motherboard out of the case and reassemble the components on an insulated surface. This is called "breadboarding" - from the 1920's homebrew radio days. I always breadboard a new or recycled build. It lets me test components before I go through the trouble of installing them in a case.
It will look something like this:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/page-262730_13_0.html
You can turn on the PC by shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes on.
If you get the long beeps, add a stick of RAM. Boot. The beep pattern should change to one long and two or three short beeps. Silence indicates that the RAM is shorting out the PSU (very rare). Long single beeps indicates that the BIOS does not recognize the presence of the RAM.
If you get the one long and two or three short beeps, test the rest of the RAM. If good, install the video card and any needed power cables and plug in the monitor. If the video card is good, the system should successfully POST (one short beep, usually) and you will see the boot screen and messages.
Note - an inadequate PSU will cause a failure here or any step later.
Note - you do not need drives, keyboard, or monitor to successfully POST (generally a single short beep).
If you successfully POST, start plugging in the rest of the components, one at a time.
If you are puzzled or still do not have any success, come on back. Just remember: one problem per thread.
Hi all, I have had the same exact problem .. fan running only .. black screen.. hard disk light on.. I noticed one of the power cables wasnt plugged in into the motherboard along with the regular power cable and I plugged it in .. it has 4 connectors and now the computer is running. Be on the look out for any power cables that are loose and look on the motherboard to see if it will fit in any slot. Hope this helps.
revengerone
Distinguished
- Jan 2, 2010
- 2
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- 18,510
Hi guys,
It's my first post on here so be gentle with me if I don't adhere to posting rules (o:
I know my way around PC's but this one has me stumped.
Home built pc around 4 years old.
Working fine and i always leave it on.
However I thought I'd do a quick reboot just to clear out ram etc but when it closed down it didn't boot up as normal with no screen either.
I've checked what the mobo led is telling me when it attempts and its the 8.3 9.6 9.e 9.f error with the pc switching off at 9.f after 5 seconds (all fans are running as normal).
Checked all leads including 12v atx all ok
Ok after a bit of research the power-supply looked like the problem (it was a tagan so that surprised me a bit ) so I went out and got a
Corsair VX450.
+3.3V +5V +12V -12V +5VSB
20A 20A 33A 0.8A 3A
Fitted it, no change exactly the same errors... money already wasted )o:
So I've now tried it totally clean nothing in same just the fans no beeps then shut down with same codes.
Swapped gfx 8800gt with 6600gt still same.
I've cleared cmos many times and changed battery still no change.
Perhaps the bios is somehow wiped ...is it worth getting a new chip ..with my symptoms ?
*************
So to my question I'd like to save money of course so would LIKE to just buy whatever is the most likely damaged component. Sods law is sure whatever i get CPU or MOBO it will be the other one at fault.
So guys what do you reckon is the MOST likely faulty component with what I've said ?
My system below .....if you need anymore info please ask .
Cheers in advance.
***************************************
Motherboard - Abit aa8 duramax 3rd eye
CPU - Pentium 4 540 3.2gh Prescott
RAM - 2x 1gb / 2x 0.5gb (3gb total)
Graphics - nVidia 8800gt
H/D - One SATA
DVD - One IDE
****************************************
It's my first post on here so be gentle with me if I don't adhere to posting rules (o:
I know my way around PC's but this one has me stumped.
Home built pc around 4 years old.
Working fine and i always leave it on.
However I thought I'd do a quick reboot just to clear out ram etc but when it closed down it didn't boot up as normal with no screen either.
I've checked what the mobo led is telling me when it attempts and its the 8.3 9.6 9.e 9.f error with the pc switching off at 9.f after 5 seconds (all fans are running as normal).
Checked all leads including 12v atx all ok
Ok after a bit of research the power-supply looked like the problem (it was a tagan so that surprised me a bit ) so I went out and got a
Corsair VX450.
+3.3V +5V +12V -12V +5VSB
20A 20A 33A 0.8A 3A
Fitted it, no change exactly the same errors... money already wasted )o:
So I've now tried it totally clean nothing in same just the fans no beeps then shut down with same codes.
Swapped gfx 8800gt with 6600gt still same.
I've cleared cmos many times and changed battery still no change.
Perhaps the bios is somehow wiped ...is it worth getting a new chip ..with my symptoms ?
*************
So to my question I'd like to save money of course so would LIKE to just buy whatever is the most likely damaged component. Sods law is sure whatever i get CPU or MOBO it will be the other one at fault.
So guys what do you reckon is the MOST likely faulty component with what I've said ?
My system below .....if you need anymore info please ask .
Cheers in advance.
***************************************
Motherboard - Abit aa8 duramax 3rd eye
CPU - Pentium 4 540 3.2gh Prescott
RAM - 2x 1gb / 2x 0.5gb (3gb total)
Graphics - nVidia 8800gt
H/D - One SATA
DVD - One IDE
****************************************
Yogsta72
Distinguished
- Jan 2, 2010
- 2
- 0
- 18,510
Well if you have a real good look around you will find the reason for both gigabyte and asus to be the most commonly talked about boards is that they are the best out on the market for the home build it yourself tech.
Why would you want to go to a board you don't know when the two of the top three are in every town in every country in the world?
You could be left with no or little tech support as 95% of the world use either Asus, Gigabyte or Intel.
Maybe you could try XFX boards? don't know what they are like though.
As for me Asus ROG all the way!!!!
Andrew 😉
I westom, I just wanted to say that I have greatly appreciated your knowledge in this forum and wondred if you could tell any specfically good learning tools for this stuff? I have gone to school for some things, but nothing in my area offers courses for this and it is what i want to learn. Unfortunately i am limited to programming, graphic design and CISCO here. Any good books or websites or anything really would be incredibly helpful! I thank you in advance, Ariel
I had this problem - No bleep - no BIOS screen on an ECS GS7610 ULTRA motherboard. I checked the RAM, HDD, PSU and all the cables and in the end found out that it was because I had not connected the CPU VCore Power lead. It was unclear in the motherboard installation procedure regarding the connection of this so I did not connect it up. However, with the Vcore power connector PWR2 connected up to the PSU +12v 4 pin connector the motherboard POSTs and the BIOS screen comes up.
Hope this helps anyone else who is having similar problems.
Hope this helps anyone else who is having similar problems.
Power supply voltages are often specified as +/- 5% for the (+) lead and +/- 10% for the (-) if you look at their official specifications.
Therefore, it is quite irrelevant to report to three significant figures, since technically your 12V power supply on the (+) lead (most important) can be 11.4 to 12.6 V and STILL BE considered up to standard (at least, the manufacturer's standard. You Tom'sHardware folk can say otherwise).
Also, converting AC to DC will never be completely perfect. You will get fluctuations, again, NORMAL fluctuations that will be detectable within three significant figures given a responsive enough tester (oscilloscope?)
This all goes back to the whole meaning of significant figures. The whole point of significant figures is, don't report past what your margin of error is. If all your inputs are within 1 sig fig, your answer must be within 1 sig fig (re: into to chemistry 101) Power supplies can be +/- 5% on the (+) lead, therefore, given a voltage of 12 don't go around report values of 11.634. It's still above 11.4, and that's all that matters.
Hence, "spot-on"
If you want to debate the validity of a power supply's specified range of operation, then go ahead, but if you have proof you might as well bring up a lawsuit against the manufacturers for selling a product that has poorly -designed specifications (i.e. if it should be +/- 1% to prevent damage to components, and at +/- 5% these errors predictably arise). Really, you should. Otherwise let's move on from the 3 sig figs debate.
I'm sorry to hammer this in so hard but it really is an important concept to understand. As a student about to enter surgery, we have all these crazy high-resolution scans that can detect "abnormalities" within the human body, which drive some surgeons to operate on the "abnormalities", and it begs the question, what is abnormal? When does something cause an error, and when does it just not matter at all? If you can pick something up with a low-resolution scanner and it looks weird (i.e. huge tumor) or if your ancient multi-meter picks up a voltage of 8, okay, you have a problem! But man, you get all this high-tech gadgetry that is extremely precise, and you start picking up the fuzz of normal operation which is misleading. Hence, drop the 3 sig figs, unless you can give me a good argument to keep 'em.
You are right about checking the PSU under a load.
I had this same problem. Westom explained it incredibly well, but I wasn't satisfied with the option of spending 400$ on a new MoBo.
Instead, it was a problem with the physical connection between the PSU and the MoBo. I literally pushed each of the suppling wires toward their respective socket whislt the power was on (dangerously lol) and the MoBo miraculously beeped. My OS booted as normal, and I haven't looked back. Don't concede to spending loads of money, but equally, don't eletricute yourself!
Good Luck,
buddyswift
Instead, it was a problem with the physical connection between the PSU and the MoBo. I literally pushed each of the suppling wires toward their respective socket whislt the power was on (dangerously lol) and the MoBo miraculously beeped. My OS booted as normal, and I haven't looked back. Don't concede to spending loads of money, but equally, don't eletricute yourself!
Good Luck,
buddyswift
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