Do I have a "HOT" CPU?

[Y0GI]

So, I have been testing my new rig with some mild overclocking which indicated that my stock Intel air cooler was woefully inadequate. I decided to get some baseline info before I buy a new HSF so I reset my BIOS to "Optimized Defaults" and rebooted into Windows. I started running the Intel Burn Test and within about 30 sec. the temps were: 96*, 96*, 93* and 93* so I stopped the test.

Should my temps be so hot at stock settings? My equipment is in my sig.

 

[06yfz450ridr]

loose heatsink

 

[MercJ]

I suppose it depends what the optimized defaults are for your motherboard - what frequency was the 4670K running at during the test? Can you confirm the voltage used during the test with CPUID or similar?

EDIT: 06yfz450ridr is on to something, those stock Intel coolers with the push pins can be notorious for not being seated fully, something to check as well

 

[Branden]

yes, that's way too hot, even for a stock cooler.
is the HSF seated properly? is there good ventilation inside the case?

don't mess around with overclocking until you get these temps under control (and preferably an aftermarket cooler too).

 

[Y0GI]

loose heatsink

I will re-check the HS.

Thanks!

Yogi

 

[Y0GI]

I suppose it depends what the optimized defaults are for your motherboard - what frequency was the 4670K running at during the test? Can you confirm the voltage used during the test with CPUID or similar?

EDIT: 06yfz450ridr is on to something, those stock Intel coolers with the push pins can be notorious for not being seated fully, something to check as well

I believe that the freq. was the 'turbo' option which is 3.8 GHz. I did not see the voltage.

Thanks!

Yogi

 

[burdenbound]

You will want to put new thermal paste on to the CPU if you remove it to check if it's seated correctly. My advice would be to ditch the stock cooler and get something better before your system kills itself.

 

[Immaculate]

No, at stock for me, I don't go over 63C using Prime95, I use with one of the cheapest aftermarket coolers out there. The Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO.
When applying thermal paste you want to use as little as possible. Metal on metal has the best heat transfer rate, the paste is to fill in the very tiny gaps so no heat can form a pocket and make the CPU hot. The Intel CPU will shut down after hitting 100C. AMD CPUs shut down at 62C.
If I OC to 4.2Ghz I hit about 75C. If I run into a particularly hard test on Prime95 it might go into the 80s.
The CM HYPER 212 EVO can be had for $35 USD.

 

[ddpruitt]

No, at stock for me, I don't go over 63C using Prime95, I use with one of the cheapest aftermarket coolers out there. The Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO.
When applying thermal paste you want to use as little as possible. Metal on metal has the best heat transfer rate, the paste is to fill in the very tiny gaps so no heat can form a pocket and make the CPU hot. The Intel CPU will shut down after hitting 100C. AMD CPUs shut down at 62C.
If I OC to 4.2Ghz I hit about 75C. If I run into a particularly hard test on Prime95 it might go into the 80s.
The CM HYPER 212 EVO can be had for $35 USD.

Actually the CPUs don't shut down they throttle, and it depends on the model. AMD CPUs will go over 62C, I do it regularly. And some Intel CPUs throttle in the 70s. And the Cooler Master, though cheap is one of the better heatsinks.

I would suggest looking at the CPU speeds during the run, if they dip then it's throttling. Disable overclocking and see what it runs at stock clocks. Improperly installed heatsink is the likely culprit. Also check the fan to make sure it's working correctly. Before going with a new heatsink I would make sure it runs stock correctly otherwise something else may be going on.

 

[Immaculate]

Yea I dont know why I said shutdown, I remember in a different thread someone saying they throttle down.

 

[Y0GI]

I shutdown the system and checked the push-pins. All were tight. Then I re-ran the Intel Burn Test. Result was similar to before. Within 10 sec. the CPU heated up to 94*C. Vcore was 1.184 according to CPUID HW Monitor. Vcore was definitely throttling, just not enough.

I guess that next I will remove the HSF, clean both surfaces and reinstall the stock HSF with fresh thermal paste.

Meanwhile, I'm shopping for a new HSF. I'd like to get the Cooler Master Hyper 212X but I cannot find it for sale - even at the CM store.

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions!

Yogi

 

[Immaculate]

What country? Can you set the voltage to override? Try 3.8Ghz dynamic. Voltage lock at something like 1.030 volts maybe even slightly higher. Mine is 1.015volts I think.
I never even tried the stock heatsink, everything I read about it was bad.

 

[Y0GI]

What country? Can you set the voltage to override? Try 3.8Ghz dynamic. Voltage lock at something like 1.030 volts maybe even slightly higher. Mine is 1.015volts I think.
I never even tried the stock heatsink, everything I read about it was bad.

USA -

There are so many voltages and "offsets" in the BIOS. Would it be "CPU Over Voltage Protection"?

I know that the stock HSF sucks, but I don't think that the results should be THIS bad!

Thank you, Immaculate!

Yogi

 

[Immaculate]

Cpu core voltage and cpu ring voltage. Set them the same, override.
Go to newegg.com
Leave the offsets alone.

 

[Y0GI]

Cpu core voltage and cpu ring voltage. Set them the same, override.
Go to newegg.com
Leave the offsets alone.

So do you mean to set V Core to a constant 1.130 v.? Even when idle?

I already tried Newegg. They do not have the CM Hyper 212X.

Yogi

 

[Immaculate]

Try amazon.com for the CM 212X
Set the V core to 1.050 or lower. You should be able to get by with 1.030volts.
Yes even at idle, In dynamic or auto mode the voltage goes much higher than it needs to go.
Make sure you do it to BOTH CPU CORE VOLTAGE & CPU RING VOLTAGE.
I really don't expect much of a decrease in temperature with the stock heatsink. Though the voltage drop may help.

 

[Y0GI]

Try amazon.com for the CM 212X
Set the V core to 1.050 or lower. You should be able to get by with 1.030volts.
Yes even at idle, In dynamic or auto mode the voltage goes much higher than it needs to go.
Make sure you do it to BOTH CPU CORE VOLTAGE & CPU RING VOLTAGE.
I really don't expect much of a decrease in temperature with the stock heatsink. Though the voltage drop may help.

This temperature problem is really not an issue for my normal use of the computer. I don't do any gaming and the CPU intensive applications that I run, like Adobe Lightroom, only need the high CPU load for very brief periods.

I tried setting lower voltages in the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility but that did not work. I really need to go into the BIOS and do it right. I think that, for now at least, I'll leave the voltages as is and work on the HSF. I found my thermal paste so I'll remove the HSF and clean the HS and CPU, apply new thermal paste and see how that does.

I also tried Amazon for the CM 212X and they do not have it either. I sent an e-mail to CM asking them where I could buy one and if their store sells it.

Thanks for your help, Immaculate!

Yogi

 

[Y0GI]

I found that I had 2 dead memory slots on my MB so I took my new computer apart so that I could RMA the MB back to Newegg. Upon removing the HSF, here is what I found: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg267/acyogi/Computers/New%20Intel%20Computer/CPU/IMG_2859.jpg It looks like there was an air bubble between the CPU and the HSF. (I have never posted photos here before so I am flying blind)

It looks like there was a gap in the TIM on the CPU but there was no corresponding indication on the HSF.

I have since returned the MB to Newegg and I await its replacement. Meanwhile, I also ordered a Noctura NH D14 SE 2011 HSF and the hardware kit to install it to my LGA 1150 MB. Hopefully, the results with the Noctura HSF will be much improved!

 

[Immaculate]

Are you %100 sure you need the hardware kit? I thought if it fit 3rd gen it fits 4th gen also.

 

[Y0GI]

Are you %100 sure you need the hardware kit? I thought if it fit 3rd gen it fits 4th gen also.

I'm as sure as I can be without actually testing the installation. I wrote to Noctura tech support and asked them if the SE 2011 would fit on an LGA 1150 board, and here is what they said:
"Thanks for contacting Noctua and for your interest in our products.

"No, the NH-D14 SE2011 is not compatible with LGA115x mainboards out of the box.
You can make it compatible with the help of either the NM-i115x or NM-i3 Kits though, which are available from resellers either via Amazon or directly (e.g. QuietPC USA).

"Kind regards,
Andreas Karner
Noctua support team"

I later found the same info posted on their website in the FAQ's for the SE 2011.

I wish that the kit was not necessary. Could've saved me 10 bucks!

Yogi