[SOLVED] Does using an external fan to cool a PC significantly increase risk of condensation?

[sephirothxt]

I'm having high CPU and GPU temps when playing Flight Simulator with my 10850k and EVGA 3080. My case is part of an ABS build from NewEgg using a Rosewill Spectra D100. My CPU cooler is a Gamdias AIO. I may be upgrading these given that I will have higher than ideal temps (GPU never above 79C, CPU occasionally in 80s during intense load, but often in the 70s).

If I use an external fan, is the risk of condensation really that significant? I've read this in passing online, but haven't seen any hard evidence to back it up. I don't see how this is any different than using fans on a PC case. I don't mind the noise level b/c I was planning on using long cords to have my PC further away from me or outside the door. I would just have the fan facing the front of the PC to augment the amount of cool air going through the PC. I could also open the glass panel and have it pump cool air directly, but this would accelerate dust accumulation in the case.

 

[Prad_Bitt]

I'm having high CPU and GPU temps when playing Flight Simulator with my 10850k and EVGA 3080. My case is part of an ABS build from NewEgg using a Rosewill Spectra D100. My CPU cooler is a Gamdias AIO. I may be upgrading these given that I will have higher than ideal temps (GPU never above 79C, CPU occasionally in 80s during intense load, but often in the 70s).

If I use an external fan, is the risk of condensation really that significant? I've read this in passing online, but haven't seen any hard evidence to back it up. I don't see how this is any different than using fans on a PC case. I don't mind the noise level b/c I was planning on using long cords to have my PC further away from me or outside the door. I would just have the fan facing the front of the PC to augment the amount of cool air going through the PC. I could also open the glass panel and have it pump cool air directly, but this would accelerate dust accumulation in the case.

I don't think it's even possible to get condensation inside a pc unless you're doing something like liquid nitrogen cooling or some crazy stuff like that. AIOs and air coolers are just heat transfer devices. No matter what you do you can't cause condensation inside, I think. Unless you put an ac blowing air directly into it, then turn off the AC, you won't get condensation

 

[Phaaze88]

There's nothing wrong with the thermals you're seeing now... you are creating a problem out of one that's yet to exist.

If you live in a humid climate, then use a humidifier or air conditioner.
The external fan does the same thing as the fans inside the chassis.

 

[sephirothxt]

Fair. I keep reading that 70s are okay, 80s are not. I was previously running some higher temps in high 80s/low 90s with my CPU (posted about this in the CPU forum), though this has improved as of recent. Still, to improve longetivity of the PC, I was hoping to get it run closer to high 60s/low 70s than to see these numbers occasionally go high in the high 70s/low 80s. I think I'll just use the external fan and experiment to see how it helps things, even if by a few degrees.

 

[Phaaze88]

Ok. Take a picture of the interior and post it through either postimages.org or imgur.com
Please remove the side panel when you do so, to avoid reflections - especially your own.

 

[sephirothxt]

Thank you. Yea, the temps have gotten slightly better. GPU temps usually in mid 70s for the 3080. Still, when I go over very graphically demanding areas of Flight Simulator (like Tokyo, San Francisco), the CPU temps do go above 80C frequently. I've attached an image gallery of my build, incase you have any insights or tips. Looks okay on my eye, but you're the expert, so very much appreciate any insights you may have

Here is a gallery of my build. The 3080 was initially connected to the PSU with a daisy chain connector. I did have to unplug the 8 pin daisy chain, and use a 2nd 8 pin connector. So now I have two separate 8 pin connectors from the PSU attached to the 3080 (with both daisies unattached).

The fact that it's winter now will help my temps. And I don't mind using the external fan b/c I will be probably putting my computer outside my door, or far away from me.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/hQ86wgK

 

[Prad_Bitt]

Thank you. Yea, the temps have gotten slightly better. GPU temps usually in mid 70s for the 3080. Still, when I go over very graphically demanding areas of Flight Simulator (like Tokyo, San Francisco), the CPU temps do go above 80C frequently. I've attached an image gallery of my build, incase you have any insights or tips. Looks okay on my eye, but you're the expert, so very much appreciate any insights you may have

Here is a gallery of my build. The 3080 was initially connected to the PSU with a daisy chain connector. I did have to unplug the 8 pin daisy chain, and use a 2nd 8 pin connector. So now I have two separate 8 pin connectors from the PSU attached to the 3080 (with both daisies unattached).

The fact that it's winter now will help my temps. And I don't mind using the external fan b/c I will be probably putting my computer outside my door, or far away from me.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/hQ86wgK

The only reason I could see the Temps hitting 80 is

1. The card does not have great cooling
2. The front is blocked off ie not mesh
3. The fans aren't that good

I have a hunch it's 2. Either way it's not anything to be concerned about, it's not gonna wreck anything

 

[Phaaze88]

Gpu is all well and good, but:

Still, when I go over very graphically demanding areas of Flight Simulator (like Tokyo, San Francisco), the CPU temps do go above 80C frequently. I've attached an image gallery of my build, incase you have any insights or tips. Looks okay on my eye, but you're the expert, so very much appreciate any insights you may have

Has Microsoft updated the game to use more than 4 threads yet?
If they haven't, then yeah, that is kinda high, and I have a few ideas why:
1)Pump speed should be set at a fixed rpm - maxed out, or at least 90%. Do not use dynamic/auto pump curves; it's more stressful on the pump Vs static, and will help it last longer.

2)Round fan frames are not as effective as square frames on radiators, because of the gaps. Some air will not get pushed through the radiator and instead 'slip away' through those gaps, only to get sucked back through.
A slight issue - nothing major, but it's still there. I'll admit, they look nicer on radiators, even if they are a little impractical.

3)This one may be more of a nitpick, but:
Why did Rosewill sandwich the fans between the open mesh panel and honeycomb fan grilles? It should be more effective to have the fans behind both.

 

[sephirothxt]

Gpu is all well and good, but:

Has Microsoft updated the game to use more than 4 threads yet?
If they haven't, then yeah, that is kinda high, and I have a few ideas why:
1)Pump speed should be set at a fixed rpm - maxed out, or at least 90%. Do not use dynamic/auto pump curves; it's more stressful on the pump Vs static, and will help it last longer.

2)Round fan frames are not as effective as square frames on radiators, because of the gaps. Some air will not get pushed through the radiator and instead 'slip away' through those gaps, only to get sucked back through.
A slight issue - nothing major, but it's still there. I'll admit, they look nicer on radiators, even if they are a little impractical.

3)This one may be more of a nitpick, but:
Why did Rosewill sandwich the fans between the open mesh panel and honeycomb fan grilles? It should be more effective to have the fans behind both.

Flight Simulator isnt DX12 yet. But it's performing exceptionally well sometimes. If I'm flying over landscape areas (glaciers, mountains), I can push 140+ FPS at 4K, which I did recently today over New Zealand. So they may have made some updates to better use the threads.

I'll take a look at the pump stuff in the Motherboard BIOS or from Windows. I have to learn how to navigate it, which is tricky for someone who hasn't done it before. CPU temps are definitely behaving better than before though. May be the new BIOS, or winter weather. Who knows.

At some point I may update the case and the CPU cooler. Maybe next year once summer rolls around when temps start to go up a bit. Probably go with a Corsair H115i and maybe something from Lian Li (O11 dynamic vs Lancool Mesh II) or Cooler Master H500. Whatever has the best thermals and airflow.

 

[sephirothxt]

Gpu is all well and good, but:

Has Microsoft updated the game to use more than 4 threads yet?
If they haven't, then yeah, that is kinda high, and I have a few ideas why:
1)Pump speed should be set at a fixed rpm - maxed out, or at least 90%. Do not use dynamic/auto pump curves; it's more stressful on the pump Vs static, and will help it last longer.

2)Round fan frames are not as effective as square frames on radiators, because of the gaps. Some air will not get pushed through the radiator and instead 'slip away' through those gaps, only to get sucked back through.
A slight issue - nothing major, but it's still there. I'll admit, they look nicer on radiators, even if they are a little impractical.

3)This one may be more of a nitpick, but:
Why did Rosewill sandwich the fans between the open mesh panel and honeycomb fan grilles? It should be more effective to have the fans behind both.

Phaaze88, do you think it may be of potential benefit to switch my case components into another case, such as the Phanteks 500A, if I want to bring the GPU temps down from the mid/high 70s into the high 60s/low 70s?

I haven't seen any thermals on the D100 online. I've only seen reviews online which comment that it's a good case, with some people saying it has great airflow. Gamersnexus has detailed thermals on lots of cases, including the Phanteks 500A, but not the Spectra D100. Here are the amazon and newegg reviews on the D100.

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Computer-Radiator-Tempered-Management/dp/B07QN894L4?th=1

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811147308

At this point, the only thing I can maybe go off of is someone's interpretation of how the case looks like, such as yours. I know people cant exactly predict exactly how the temps would do, but I'd appreciate if someone can give a general idea whether it would be a big or neglible difference. Both cases have an exhaust fan; the Phanteks 500A (non-RGB) has two 140mm fans in the front, while the D100 has 3 120mm fans in the front (though the bottom fans seems to mostly be pushing air into the bottom cover of the PSU). I imagine having less fans would theoretically mean less airflow, unless one considers what you mentioned with that metal honeycomb fan grill.

I don't mind spending an extra $100 if it means bringing down the GPU temps from 76-78C to the low 70s, even if I have to go through the trouble of moving everything.

 

[Phaaze88]

I might not be the person to consult... everyone has different values.

I don't mind spending an extra $100 if it means bringing down the GPU temps from 76-78C to the low 70s, even if I have to go through the trouble of moving everything.

In my eyes, that isn't worth the exchange... unless 'I just want to do it', after which what anyone else says doesn't matter.

 

[hotaru.hino]

If I use an external fan, is the risk of condensation really that significant?

Just to answer this question in more detail, condensation happens only if a surface is colder than the dew point of the air around it. Unless you're using a heat-pump type of cooler like a Peltier or Phase Change cooler, it's physically impossible for the hardware inside of the computer to reach this point.

 

[sephirothxt]

I might not be the person to consult... everyone has different values.

In my eyes, that isn't worth the exchange... unless 'I just want to do it', after which what anyone else says doesn't matter.

Thanks for the input.

The answer to the question of "do lower temps increase longevity of GPUs/CPUs/computers" is harder to answer when you consider the high end of normal (i.e., high 70s compared to high 60s/low 70s). Anything above 80C that was sustained would obviously be a red flag and bad.

I want this PC to last for 8-10 years. I would lament if my GPU's lifespan ended before then b/c it was constantly running at 78C while I gamed (it's not on 24/7, usually a couple of hours a day). In other words, if there was something I could have done to prevent it, and didn't do it, I would regret it.

My honest guess is that even running in the high 70s over the long run should be fine. I'll keep a close watch on things. And more importantly, just start focus on enjoying things now. I've spent months doing research on computer parts, now just time to enjoy what I have

 

[Phaaze88]

That's why I haven't tried to talk you in to doing it. 78C is well and good for gpu and cpu operating temp.
Now, if this were a storage drive, ram, or a psu...