Update.. took the old girl apart. Documented here because I will forget all of this in about 2 hours. As I thought the connectors all join up inside and feed a single negative and single positive terminal in there. FYI the outer side "Upper right side as you face towards the back of the monitor is one positive. Inner side "Lower left side as you face the back of the monitor" is one negative. At least on mine, this seems to be one config that works. Outer case is 100% aluminum, super easy to work with. 100% Phillips screw retention. Just pulled teh white adhesive cover off of the "handle" portion of to reveal the 1st screws. From there its pretty self explanatory.
Stuck a couple of short lengths of speaker wire in as my test setup. Monitor is working off a 24v under rated power supply for testing. Works fine dimmed down. Screen blacks out when I turn the brightness up. I need to figure out a high amperage solution soon in order to turn the brightness up. I'll probably series up two 12v psu's rather than buy an expensive high current 24v jobbie. I think I can find a couple of isolated non-grounded 12's that will do the job.
Also, the max res is 800 lines vert I'm guessing because I only have single link DVI cords to use. I ordered a dual DVI cord with the extra conductors in it to hopefully get the full 1600 lines vert resolution. These older "hi res" monitors seem to only do the 2 resolutions. Which is strange but whatever its cheap.
$35 2nd hand untested monitor
$30-ish worth of psus
$8 new dual DVI cord
Any way I am happy it seems to work, my son's under $80 1600 line monitor solution is looks like it might be a success. Less than a nickel per vert line... not bad in my book. 😉 Should be a good match to the low buck old xeon game box he will pair it with. Should be a nice upgrade from the 1080p.
Edited for cable update: Yes it works at full res with the dual dvi cable.
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