EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition

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timmrhodes

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Dec 20, 2013
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This is the water block i seam to be leaning towards.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-evo-elite-edition-cpu-waterblock-intel-2011-3.html#Details

I will admit i am really nervous about this part this is my first real build let alone with water cooling. Here is the build link http://pcpartpicker.com/p/t7NqMp it is not all on there as they have not come out yet with the 980 ti hydro copper that i want.
i noticed it comes with a https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-tim-indigo-xtreme-intel-2011-3
not really sure what that is .
also im not sure what fittings are the best. I am going to try and use hard tubing pipe?
i will have to heat and bend it im guessing. i know i can do that part as i am a carpenter by trade.
any advise would be great of places with knowledge that i can read.

again thanks for all the great help it has truly made this a lot more fun
 
Solution
JackNaylorPE
I wouldn't go near the Hydrocopper, at least if it's anything like the previous ones.... poor water block design on top of a not so hot PCB. The problem with past Hydrocoppers is not in the GPU cooling but the VRM cooling which is more than 30C above the best water blocks and is the most critical item with regard to overclocking.

HkEXMui.png


It's also 10C for the VRAM

Ii9Cr4N.png


Indigo is a liquid metal TIM which is not to be chosen lightly, it's conductive, you can damage things with it. I suggest you read a few reviews, might not be something you want to tackle if this is your first WC build. The regular Supremacy Evo I believe still uses Gelid Extreme

What other radiators...
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I wouldn't go near the Hydrocopper, at least if it's anything like the previous ones.... poor water block design on top of a not so hot PCB. The problem with past Hydrocoppers is not in the GPU cooling but the VRM cooling which is more than 30C above the best water blocks and is the most critical item with regard to overclocking.

HkEXMui.png


It's also 10C for the VRAM

Ii9Cr4N.png


Indigo is a liquid metal TIM which is not to be chosen lightly, it's conductive, you can damage things with it. I suggest you read a few reviews, might not be something you want to tackle if this is your first WC build. The regular Supremacy Evo I believe still uses Gelid Extreme

What other radiators do you have ? A ST30-420 is not going to cut it.

CPU - 235 watts overclocked
980 Ti - 281 watts x 1.20 (from MSI Afterburner power slider) = 362 watts

2 x 362 + 235 = 959 watts

Normally I wouldn't recommend more than 1200 rpm fans but lets use 1800 for the sake of argument

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/

We see from the above link that the 360 radiator will provide 242 watts of cooling at 10C Delta T. A 140mm rad has 36% more surface area so call it 330 watts ... you're way short. The rad will be able to supply about 34% of the required cooling for 10C Delta T. You want to be able to get to at least 60% as you can depend on surface radiation to take care of the rest.

The general rule of thumb is about 140mm of radiator for every 150 watts of max heat production. If you run the radiator with 6 140mm fans (by the way, I notice ya bought the wrong size fans for the radiator) in push pull, you can get up to about 400 watts of cooling...that would give you a Delta T of about 24C which is still very high.
 
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Solution




http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-blocks-cpu/ek-supremacy-evo-x99-nickel-22363.html
Would this be a better option for a first WC build?

 
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What it is is less important than the damage it can do and the skill required to install. I'd strongly advise reading up more on the product.

As for the rest. I hate the PPc site and still use FCPU as their site is great even if they are not open for business

I'd suggest a clear acrylic top so you can see inside

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19631/ex-blc-1444/EK_Supremacy_EVO_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-Supremacy_EVO_-_Nickel.html?tl=g57c603s1912

look back at my original post.... I had added some additional comments.... your radiator is undersized and you appear to have the wrong size fans for it.

Unless the 980 Ti has a better design than the 780 hydrocopper, I wouldn't expect any higher OCs than an air cooled MSI card due to VRM temps.
 
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i had the wrong size rad in the info(had to add it as i could not find a way to put it on with links)
I am using 2 rads top is a
xt30 360 mm and bottom is a xt45 240mm
after looking i am staying away from the TIM thanks for that info i didnt know that
i am looking at the nickle as it will match the white silver color i am doing
and thanks for the site link
 
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There's no such thing as an XT30 ... ST means 30mm..... XT means 45mm ... UT means 60mm

You can download a spreadsheet for the performance of those rads here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator

The 360 will give you 217 and the 240 will give you 145 for a total of 362 watts.

Going push / pull will get you 438 watts .... still a bit short for a 959 watt load.

The block I listed in nickel .... the top is just clear so that you can see inside which is extremely valuable as you can immediately identify if anything is getting stuck in the micro-channels.
 
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I wouldn't go near the Hydrocopper, at least if it's anything like the previous ones.... poor water block design on top of a not so hot PCB. The problem with past Hydrocoppers is not in the GPU cooling but the VRM cooling which is more than 30C above the best water blocks and is the most critical item with regard to overclocking.
Click to expand...

Your info is a few years out of date. The VRM cooling issue was with the original 580 Hydro Coppers, the first design didn't have a heat pipe passing over the VRM's and left them to be air cooled. The 580 Hydro Copper 2 and beyond now come with a EK waterblock that has a heat pipe running across the VRM's. You can actually purchase the block separately from them.

http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=400-CU-G980-B1

I'm currently running two EVGA 780 Hydro Coppers and trying to get my hands on two 980 TI Hydro Coppers but the demand is extremely high and he supply limited, so they sell out within minutes of being available.

Here is the link to the full article, instead the snipped out graphs.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/09/07/evga-hydrocopper/

The Titan X Hydro was a swifttech block back in 2013, the same style that produced those issues with the 580 Hydro Copper. Strangely those issues weren't present with the Hydro Copper 2 and the 780 Classified Hydro Coppers but showed up again with the Titan X Hydros. After that EVGA switched to EK which has done a fabulous job so far.
 
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Um no.... it's not the 580. There was no Titan nor a 780 at the time of the 580.

Read the lower left hand corner and top of the pic .... part where it says "Titan Water Block Roundup". As i said, the 980 Ti block may be different, but it is a fact that the data above is for the exact same hydrocopper water block that you have on your 780 and it is .... no doubt .... 30C above the EK on VRM temps. We''l have to wait and see if and how the Titan / 780 Water Block differs from the Titan X / 980 Ti water blocks

Article Title = "Nvidia GTX780/Titan Water Block Roundup"
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/10/03/nvidia-gtx780titan-water-block-roundup/2/

Here's the youtube version
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDyYliSo-Hw
 
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Read the update as I tried to explain more.

I run into this argument all the time with people who had cursory knowledge of the Hydro line from that one review and assume they are all made the same.

The 580, 780 and Titan X all used a design that didn't actively cool the VRMs, the 580 Copper 2 and 780 Classified (what I have) used a design that actively cooled the VRM's. The 980 + series switched to EK water blocks that all actively cool the VRMs.

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/65894-evga-gtx-780-classified-hydrocopper-vs-stock-gtx-780-aftermarket-waterblock/#entry1178260

That goes a bit more into it.

I can say this because I actually have two Hydro Copper 2's sitting in my closet with two 780 Classified Hydro Coppers sitting in my rig right now with zero VRM issues. When people started bad mouthing the whole line I had to get up and look into my stuff and that's when I discovered there were many varieties of their blocks with some being good and others being bad.
 
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I'm a "show me" kinda guy .... not about to take some marketing guys word for it ... especially from EVGA who offered up this classic response to having one of it's heat pipes completely miss the GPU on the 970.

The way the EVGA GTX 970 ACX heat sink was designed is based on the GTX 970 wattage plus an additional 40% cooling headroom on top of it. There are 3 heat pipes on the heatsink – 2 x 8mm major heat pipes to distribute the majority of the heat from the GPU to the heatsink, and a 3rd 6mm heatpipe is used as a supplement to the design to reduce another 2-3 degrees Celsius. ...

Due to the GPU small die size, we intended for the GPU to contact two major heat pipes with direct touch to make the best heat dissipation without any other material in between.
Click to expand...

Ignoring the grammatical tense issues... they "intended" for the 3rd pipe to miss the GPU and then weeks later they corrected it with the new SSC version ? ... Huh ? If they intended it , why change ? They sat down and made a conscious decision to do 2 and then they sat down a few weeks later and un-intended the design and retooled to make 3 pipes touch ?

They very well may have a better design as I said from the getgo. But where are the test results ? The 780 stunk, the Titan stunk .... ya would think if they had a great new design that produced actual improved results of note, after that shellacking on the 780 / Titan roundup, they'd be sending out samples and we'd see published tests all over the place by now.

The Classified may do better....it certainly has a better PCB than the regular EVGA Hydrocoppers.... tho since the 7xx series, the Classy and Lightning really aren't bringing anything home due to nVidia's physical and legal limitations.

However, I think WC enthusiasts are going to continue to shy away from the hydrocopper until EVGA manages to get a respectable site to publish the numbers.

Personally, I don't understand the concept. If a pair were accidentally delivered to my doorstop, from what I have seen on rebuilds, I'd take them apart and apply my own paste anyway and probably a few thermal pads as well. Until we see some numbers, I'm gonna have to leave them in the same category as the CLC based hybrids. After the "intended to miss the GPU" pronouncement, I can't put much faith in their official announcements.
 
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However, I think WC enthusiasts are going to continue to shy away from the hydrocopper until EVGA manages to get a respectable site to publish the numbers.
Click to expand...

Except they aren't shying away from them ... they are selling out within minutes of being available. EVGA can't make them fast enough.

The rest of your post was just posturing and appeal to emotion. I provided information on the different types of water blocks EVGA used and how some of them were bad while others were good. Your personal feelings against them are preventing you from being objective and instead your sticking to a single review of a Titan X hydrocopper as an absolute example for all. Checking deeper, you have a long post history of bashing them at every opportunity, always linking to the exact same article without any effort at educating yourself further. There have been multiple reviews and benchmarks of the 780 classified and recent 980 waterblocks, they are $150 USD and it's as easy as a google search.

Personally, I don't understand the concept
Click to expand...

Then you shouldn't be posting about it, period. It's about as useful as a regular using posting about why they don't understand those who build customer loops, in a thread asking about information pertaining to custom water loops. As the popularity of AIO has demonstrated, there is a market for products that come factory installed. Not everyone wants to find an old heater core, industrial pump, tubing and visit an metal shop to have a case built / modified to build their WC rig. Some people prefer to purchase a case that was designed with WC in mind, some people want to purchase a radiator that already has screw holes, threading and dimensions compatible with a PC case. And some people want to purchase a video card that already has a waterblock bolted onto it. There is a market for these products that is currently being serviced and you not liking it doesn't diminish it in the slightest.
 
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To the OP, now that I've taken care of the troll.

also im not sure what fittings are the best. I am going to try and use hard tubing pipe?
i will have to heat and bend it im guessing. i know i can do that part as i am a carpenter by trade.
any advise would be great of places with knowledge that i can read.
Click to expand...

Hard tubing looks pretty in photos but it's really sensitive about precise measurements and will take a few tries to get right, so buy lots more tubing. For your fittings, your best bet is to sit down and go with a single ID/OD rating for everything. First find out if you want to use compression fittings or barb fittings, compression generally requires thinner tubing. I personally prefer 3/8" ID / 1/2" OD tubing, I have the compression fittings that match that size and its pretty easy to maneuver in my case. Some people prefer a thicker 1/2" ID / 3/4" OD tubing. It's mostly a personal choice. Don't use any dyes or additives or you'll regret it later, instead use a silver kill coil to keep the water clean.

http://www.overclock.net/t/913181/water-cooling-guide-for-noobs-always-updated

If this is your first build, expect to screw stuff up and make mistakes. It's ok because this is as more of a learning experience and adventure then building a regular PC.

As for your choice of video card, if you can get a hold of them then they are great. The EVGA 980 TI Hydro copper is a reference 980 TI with a full cover EK waterblock factory installed and then overclocked. You end up paying a $40~50 USD premium for not having to do it yourself, so your choice.

:Edit:

More info on the discussed card. The 980 Ti Hydro used the exact same EK water block that the Titan X does since it's the same board layout sans the 6GB of memory from the back.

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/330660-evga-geforce-gtx-titan-x-hydro-copper-ek-water-blocks-for-titan-x/

The Original EK branded water block

http://site.ekwb.com/news/579/19/EK-releases-NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-TITAN-X-water-blocks/

The custom EVGA branded water block

http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=400-CU-G990-B1

This is the custom EVGA water block for the GTX 980 Hydro Copper

http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=400-CU-G980-B1

This is the same block made by EK

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc980-gtx-acetal

And the coupe de grace, from the exact same site the aforementioned poster used. The benchmarks for the EK-FC980 GTX water block where it scores outstandingly. This is the waterblock EVGA used for their 980 Hydro line, and this is the same manufacturer that made the block for the Titan-X that also scores extremely well.


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/03/10/ek-fc980-gtx-review-eks-full-cover-gtx-980-water-block/3/
 
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first sorry for the late reply been a long week
thanks for the links i love reading. I plan on using compression links to keep a nice clean look . I am also sticking with the hydro copper 980ti But i am going with a different water block( http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-blocks-cpu/ek-supremacy-evo-x99-nickel-22363.html )
as far as extra pipes will hav a ton extra as i know and plan on making mistakes but like u said.Its a learning thing.
do u agree that i need more rads?

 
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I am also sticking with the hydro copper 980ti But i am going with a different water block( http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-blocks-cpu/ek-supr... )
as far as extra pipes will hav a ton extra as i know and plan on making mistakes but like u said.Its a learning thing.
do u agree that i need more rads?
Click to expand...

That WB you listed is for a CPU, GPU and CPU waterblocks are completely separate items. The 980 TI Hydro is just a reference 980 TI with a EK waterblock installed at the factory, your CPU waterblock is something your going to have to put on during the build.
 
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