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[SOLVED] Eternal misery because of red CPU light

Oct 18, 2020
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Hi there, if the formatting on the post is strange then I apologize since I am on mobile.

So to start off, I built my first PC around the beginning on September, with it working perfectly for the first week or so. But after that first week, my PC suddenly turns off and I see the red CPU light on my motherboard. I got a bit of a panic attack but it turned back on by itself completely after 5 seconds and thought that was the end of it.

Flash forward to me having the PC for about a month, with the PC shutting down and giving me the red light for the CPU at LEAST once a day, sometimes it even does it twice or three times a day. Today, it happened four times, with me not even gaming, just me being on the Internet doing homework. The majority of time when it does happen, it’s just me being on the Internet, with a few turn offs when I am gaming.

I am at a compete lost on what to do. My CPU temperatures are normal and it does not go past 50 Celsius when I’m on the Internet, and it doesn’t go past 70 when I’m gaming. I’m using a aftermarket cooler also and tried disconnecting the 4-pin CPU connector, and nothing. I could try taking the cooler off and checking for bent pins, but installing the CPU cooler when I was building it was a nightmare and I prefer not to do it again, but if so I guess I won’t have a choice. But if there are bent pins, my PC shouldn’t be turning on at all right?

The weirdest part is how it turns back on automatically when it gives me the red light, and how when I want to turn the PC on, the red light comes back every time, but still ends up turning on completely? I’m absolutely perplexed and at this rate I might go to some computer store that I’m gonna have to spend some money on just to figure out what the hell is happening.

List Parts:
CPU: Ryzen 5 3600
Motherboard: Tomahawk b450 MAX
CPU Cooler: Hyper 212

Appreciate the help!
 
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Solution
That would be the "white label" (white model number print on the PSU) version, so you should be ok PSU-wise. The older green label versions came in 520W and 620W ratings instead of 550W and 650W.

Next thing I'd look at is current BIOS version. If you haven't updated it already, it may still be running a version as old as the MAX lineup's original launch.
That would be the "white label" (white model number print on the PSU) version, so you should be ok PSU-wise. The older green label versions came in 520W and 620W ratings instead of 550W and 650W.

Next thing I'd look at is current BIOS version. If you haven't updated it already, it may still be running a version as old as the MAX lineup's original launch.
 
Solution