Experimental radiator \build log!!!

[toolmaker_03]

well here are the radiators, my problem is the configuration of them, simply too many possibilities, so if you could find the time to give your opinions, I would really appreciate it.
I also need advice on a type of shroud for the radiators, the purpose is to inshore good air flow through the radiator.
and lastly how to attach the fans to the radiators?



all advice is welcome and thank you

 

[toolmaker_03]

What is the purpose? I could not find it here.

Is it for a single CPU?

Keep in mind that radiators still need FANS to blow through them to be effective. I'm trying to visualize a setup that makes sense and I simply can't with 6 coolers.

If I was going to water-cool a CPU I'd likely use a Corsair H100 (2x120mm) with a supported case.

I think you will find this problem much more difficult than you thought, but I applaud you for trying.

(You may wish to invest in a rubber mat that prevents water from going on the floor.)

no this is for my completely water cooled system, I already have 3 normal radiators on this build, two double 120 mm rads and a 80 mm rad. this new build should give me a additional two, double 120 mm rads, for this build. and I thought that it would be more fun to build it his way, this time around. I have built plenty of typical systems in the past, and they all work fine. I am hoping that this one will to.

 

[toolmaker_03]

so I have this innovate ehemi hpps plus, that I have been using for test purposes. I could add it to the loop, jest before the new radiators, in order to inshore good flow through the rest of the system, what do you guys thank.

 

[noob2222]

hay, would happen to know about fluid dynamics, or the physics surrounding that topic.

I know enough to be dangerous, work on hydraulics a lot.

btw, here is a copper manifold already welded, considerably cheaper than the other I posted. although 1/2 to 3/8 would be better for this application, but gives you another idea how to do it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SiouxChief-65100-Copper-Manifolds-System-/150765513655?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item231a532bb7

 

[toolmaker_03]

I know enough to be dangerous, work on hydraulics a lot.

btw, here is a copper manifold already welded, considerably cheaper than the other I posted. although 1/2 to 3/8 would be better for this application, but gives you another idea how to do it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SiouxChief-65100-Copper-Manifolds-System-/150765513655?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item231a532bb7

thanks that is almost exactly what I was building, but that was a lot easier, so I just bought it. thanks agene for letting know about it.

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok, I know how you guys like pics, so here are a few of the first test. to show you what it is that I am seeing, this test is to show the pump pressure through a strait piece of tubing.


more to come shortly.

 

[4Ryan6]

I have to hand it to you man you definitely love a challenge!

Moto would probably class you as crazier than I am! (Well maybe not)

I think the manifold suggestions are on the money you'll need input and output manifolds, they will allow pressure equalization across all the radiators.

Exactly what type radiators are those, they kinda look like automotive heater cores?

I'm assuming they are all identical, what are their dimensions?

 

[toolmaker_03]

I have to hand it to you man you definitely love a challenge!

Moto would probably class you as crazier than I am! (Well maybe not)

I think the manifold suggestions are on the money you'll need input and output manifolds, they will allow pressure equalization across all the radiators.

Exactly what type radiators are those, they kinda look like automotive heater cores?

I'm assuming they are all identical, what are their dimensions?

120 mm x 80 mm x 28 mm (hxwxd)

a little smaller than that but i do not know what thay came out of

yes it does work here are some pics of my test prototype





and it works, with just a little loss of pressure.

 

[Lutfij]

its ALIVE!!!

 

[toolmaker_03]

its ALIVE!!!

that's funny, but I will have 2 copper manifolds for the final build. it's a lot of work, but it's worth it, I have learned more about fluid dynamics and the physics behind it this past week than I ever wanted to. but if you're not learning, than your just standing still.

 

[4Ryan6]

The radiator design is a little odd for your airflow through the radiators, my first thoughts is to build a box to house them spaced at least a quarter inch apart, maybe even wider, since the 120 x 80 face is blocked stacking them and leaving an airflow gap between each one.

Thus the purpose of the box you wouldn't want the flat copper sides actually touching each other you want air to flow between those flat sides as well.

The reason I asked if they were heater cores is because heater cores are designed to remain hot and transfer the heat to the air, airflow is restricted through them so the air remains in the core longer picking up the heat from the fins.

You're after the reverse process but still transferring the heat to the air, not to heat the air but cool the radiator, so you'll have to find what type airflow low, med, or high, that best transfers the heat and cools the rads.

 

[noob2222]

one thing with those radiators, If you can line them up end to end (80mm side) looks like they should, you could do 3 fans and cover 4 radiators.

 

[rubix_1011]

So the parallel splits worked pretty well? Good to hear...I was somewhat concerned about a serial series and restriction.

@Ry- I've been trying to place them as well, but they seem to be a little small for automotive heater cores, but maybe they are. Most heater cores I've ever seen are also mostly enclosed within a housing as well, and not with the fins being exposed as they are. Also, most are typically painted and are mostly brass or aluminum in structure. I've been curious where he got these and what they initially were designed for.

 

[toolmaker_03]

So the parallel splits worked pretty well? Good to hear...I was somewhat concerned about a serial series and restriction.

@Ry- I've been trying to place them as well, but they seem to be a little small for automotive heater cores, but maybe they are. Most heater cores I've ever seen are also mostly enclosed within a housing as well, and not with the fins being exposed as they are. Also, most are typically painted and are mostly brass or aluminum in structure. I've been curious where he got these and what they initially were designed for.

I wish I knew as well, but I did buy them on eBay. but there was no discretion about where they came from, and yes that is the same thing I was thinking, there a little small for a car, but seem to work fine so far.

 

[Motopsychojdn]

No part numbers/markings anywhere on them?
I see a milk carton campaign coming up,

few of those on telegraph poles and you'll know what they are in no time hehe
😛
Moto

 

[toolmaker_03]

well my fan specs for this are 1500 rpm to 3500 rpm, I believe that these are mid speed fans. the cfm is from 58 to 150 and that covers all the fans. there will be 8 fans total 4 on the case these are the 1500 rpm and 58 cfm fans. the ones in the case are 3500 rpm and 150 cfm I hope that this will be sufficient, I did not want it to be too loud. I do wont to still hear the games i am playing, with this turned up all the way, it won't be that loud.

 

[toolmaker_03]

here you go I will be applying this to the inside of the case to lower the noise level of the fans in side

http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/echo_eliminator/art/black_up_lg.jpg

http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/echo_eliminator/wall_panel.htm?d=0

I put this stuff in all my cases to lessen the noise produced by the fans, I can't sleep if it is too noisy. I can't fit a lot of this stuff in the case with the mother board, but I get both the sides plates completely and a little on the front and back. with this build I can get all the way around the case hopefully making it real quiet, that's my plan any way. with black there will be a good contrast between the rads and the inside of the case, I thank I will paint the rads with a clear cote glow paint. the glow color is red thought it would look cool under a black light. question what do you thank, should I paint the tubing as well with a clear cote of glow paint, I was thinking about blue for the tubing. but i can't decide, maybe i should switch the order of the paint blue rads and the red for the tubing what to do???

 

[toolmaker_03]

system it is a mix of these 3 products, for the people wondering what type of liquid I run through my loop.

http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view/18-cooling-system-water-pump-lube-with-anti-rust-1311

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10

http://www.peakauto.com/antifreeze-peak-global_lifetime_5050_prediluted.shtml

since my system holds about 1 gallon of liquid total, I will put 3 times the directed amount of water wetter in it. and 1/4 the bottle of lubricant, this mixture keeps my system stable for about 1 year. I usually change out or flush the loop every 9 months. that way I get to it before anything could happen( EX: too much particulates in the system) any questions?

 

[Lutfij]

so you're increasing viscosity of the liquid to save yourself from maintaining a loop 3 months earlier. No offense mate, but distill+kill coil is all you'll need sans the water wetter and there's nothing lower in viscosity than distilled/pure distilled water.

 

[4Ryan6]

so you're increasing viscosity of the liquid to save yourself from maintaining a loop 3 months earlier. No offense mate, but distill+kill coil is all you'll need sans the water wetter and there's nothing lower in viscosity than distilled/pure distilled water.

I have to agree, unless you'll be using an automotive water pump, that's not just overkill to the max, that is literally killing your cooling performance.

I have 8 times the water mass you do and I don't use any of those products.

No Offense, those products are just not necessary, and they are hurting your overall cooling performance.

Steam distilled water with some kind of critter killer is all you really need, for best thermal transfer cooling performance.

 

[Lutfij]

that's not just overkill to the max, that is literally killing your cooling performance.

spoken by the overkill guru no offence Ryan

toolmaker is one of those oldschool/vinyl people who have grown up with watercooling when an aftermarket HSF was mandatory for a 100 MHz overclock...which is a good thing cos of experience, but there are some things that have advanced since then.

Steam distilled water with some kind of critter killer is all you really need, for best thermal transfer cooling performance.

the wonderful thing is that toolmaker has an awesome chemistry setup for making distilled right off his household faucet

those products are just not necessary, and they are hurting your overall cooling performance.

+1 and the pump if i may add...

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok guys, let me explain in short hand my reasoning when I was 16 I was working for a man they called the pizza man in the drag circles and together we built million dollar engines for race I did this for 3 years during this time I learned a lot about water systems and how they work but most importantly how to keep them clean this fact was reinforced years later with my 1987 ford pony had cerotic corrosion in the water system and then agene on my second build with wasn't mine but a friends so here is how it progressed when I first started building water cooling systems I used distilled water and water wetter for the loop I always changed my loop every 6 months he went 8 months and we had to clean the entire system because of mold like stuff in the system. well a year later the pump went out on my build, and it was a direct result of ware inside of the motor housing it had only been 3 years than 2 years later the same thing agene too much wear inside the motor housing this caused the propeller to drag and wear out the motor prematurely now with these added to the system my pumps last 5 years minimum I have another friend that has had one pump for 10 years and I don't half to clean my systems ever they stay clean so you tell me is it over kill or preventative maintenance I know that I have lowered the ability of the liquid to remove heat as quickly but it is not that much, I only found about a 8 degree F difference at idol and no difference with load temps, I don't thank that is a big trade off, a little more expense. but I would rather pay that, then replace a pump. keep in mind that I run my computers 24/7 nonstop except to clean out the dust, and flush the loop, that it. man does that sound harsh, if so I'm sorry, it's not meant to be, but that my thanking on why I do this. oh yea, what is my thinking, water wetter prevents cerotic corrosion, antifreeze prevents stuff from growing, and lube prevents premature wear on parts and preserves the system seals. ok I thank that I have covered every thing now.

don't get me wrong, I could go two years between changing's, the liquid will be cloudy, but the system will not be dirty ( meaning stuff sticking to the blocks enterer ) it's just what i have done to prevent damage to the system

 

[toolmaker_03]

I also tested all of this stuff on a super socket 7 board, running for 4 years without changing the mix before the system was so full of metal platelets, that the pump slowed down. so I changed out the mix but shortly thereafter, the kids were playing with it, I thank they were 5 or 6 at the time, and they pulled one of the hoses out. with promptly ended my experiment, but I did learn what I wanted to from it, I had a theory so I tested it, that is just the way I am, I wouldn't suggest it if I hadn't, at the very lest I would say that I haven't tested it to know for shore.

and one more thing, I don't actually use a 50/50 pre mix. that was jest easier to explain, I use a 80 % distilled water to 20% antifreeze mix, but my friends just buy the 50/50 pre mix, because as they say, it's easier.

 

[4Ryan6]

spoken by the overkill guru no offence Ryan

:lol: None Taken! :lol:

 

[4Ryan6]

@toolmaker_03

Then you are fully aware the products you'll be using are designed for temperatures far greater than you should reach water cooling your computer, they are designed for covering much more metallic surface than a water cooling setup is in contact with.

The main reason they do not cool as well, is the engine thermostat is designed to hold that fluid in the engine block until it gets hot enough to transfer to the radiator, and that coolant will not have the heat absorbtion time, in a computer water cooling setup.

I totally appreciate your past learning base, but I would never use those products to cool my computer, additionally if you ever have a leak your animals could get to and they lap up that fluid! That's Bad!

But it's up to you, I'm just voicing my concerns.

That's it, and all I have to say regarding it.

 

[toolmaker_03]

here is a heater core I don't think that the little one is a heater core, but i don't know.