Yeah, Morrowind had very little hand holding, I would probably say it was virtually non-existent, but that was part of the fun. Animation and the combat system is pretty primitive compared to today, but mods can help improve it a bit. There is fast travel, but you must find a ship or use a silt strider (like that retired giant flea like creature in Dragon Born DLC) to travel to designated ports / silt strider locations.
As much as I like Skyrim, I like Morrowind even more. I have recently started replaying Morrowind, but I am currently searching around for mods since I misplaced the DVD to which I burnt all the mods I used the last time I played the game back in 2007.