Question Games crashing and unexpected system shutdowns whilst playing ever since first built PC 2 weeks ago!

[MommaDuck]

Description of Original Problem:​

Instability whilst gaming since first building PC (2 weeks ago). Sometimes the game crashes and freezes and takes me back to the desktop, and other times it does an instant shutdown/power-off (like a power-trip). Most consistently shuts down or crashes with Overwatch 2 and can occur at any time (loading up the game itself, loading into or out matches, or mid-gameplay).

Doom Eternal has crashed a few times - but has only done an instant shutdown once. Red Dead Redemption 2 has caused 2 shutdowns (once when loading up the game for the first time and the other time just mid-session). Cyberpunk has crashed once (but has had my least playtime).

In Doom, Red Dead, and Cyberpunk; I have been able to play for a few hours at a time with no problems. I've never been able to play Overwatch for more than 1 or 2 matches at a time though (if I can make it that far).

Only BIOS setting I have changed is enabled EXPO.

Troubleshooting:​

Hard reset CMOS, redownloaded Windows 11 to a freshly formatted USB, and did a complete fresh install.

Removed and reseated RAM and GPU. Visually inspected build (not to sound incredibly arrogant, but I am a civil aviation engine overhaul technician - my job is literally to follow instructions and build/fit components to spec. I was very careful about building the PC in the first place - so I just can't see human-error whilst building to be a highly likely cause - however I'm more than happy to be proven wrong if it fixes my issue).

Tried AMD's optional GPU driver update.

Ran brief (~10mins each) OCCT CPU, GPU, and power 'stress tests' and Cinebench R23 - but none caused any crashes.

Restarted computer a bunch of times. Ran Windows performance monitor. Constantly viewed the logs in Windows Reliability tool and the System Event Viewer whilst pretending to know what I'm looking for.

System Specs:​

Computer Type: Desktop
GPU: RX 7800XT Gigabyte Gaming OC 16GB
CPU: Ryzen 5 7600X
Motherboard: ASRock B850M-X wifi
BIOS Version: 3.2 (current latest on ASRock's support page)
RAM: Silicon Power DDR5 2x16GB 6000MT/s CL30 1.35v (PC5-48000).
PSU: Gigabyte UD750GM
Case: Antec Flux
Operating System & Version: Windows 11 Professional Edition Windows 11 Pro 24H2 26100.3775
GPU Drivers: Adrenalin 25.3.2 (Optional) (and previously using Adrenalin 25.3.1 (WHQL Recommended))
Chipset Drivers: AMD's current latest chipset Driver 7.02.13.148
Background Applications: Literally none.

 

[Aeacus]

I was very careful about building the PC in the first place

That, i do not believe. Well, assembly wise, perhaps. But not by component selection wise.

Since if you did, you would not have bought this:

PSU: Gigabyte UD750GM

Because IF you did the background checks for PSU, you've learned that, at best, it is mediocre quality unit. More like low quality (or even crap quality since Gigabyte lies about it's specifications). On top of that, it comes only 5 years of warranty. Which, at today's age, is low for proper PSU.

Official specs: https://www.gigabyte.com/Power-Supply/GP-UD750GM#kf
Review 1: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gigabyte-ud750gm-power-supply-review
Review 2: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/gigabyte-ud750gm-750-w/


PSU reliability can be seen from the warranty length it has been given.
In a nutshell:
up to 2 years - terrible reliability
3 years - poor reliability (e.g Corsair VS/CS)
5 years - mediocre reliability (e.g Be Quiet! Straight Power 11, Seasonic G12, Corsair CX/CXF)
7 years - good reliability (e.g Seasonic Core/Focus GM, Corsair TX/AX)
10 years - great reliability (e.g Seasonic Focus GX/PX, Corsair RMx/HX/HXi/AXi)
12 years - superb reliability (e.g Seasonic Vertex/PRIME)

So, aim for a 10 year warranty PSU. 7 year warranty would be bare minimum.

(E.g my 3x PCs are powered by Seasonic. I have 2x PRIME TX-650 units and one Focus PX-550 unit. Full specs with pics in my sig.)

and other times it does an instant shutdown/power-off (like a power-trip)

Random reboots or shutdowns are mostly caused by 2 issues:
1. CPU/GPU overheats and to prevent any damage, system shuts down.
2. PSU fails to deliver enough power to the GPU or fails to keep smooth enough voltage for PC's operation.

First check your CPU/GPU temps, both at idle and under load. If temps are within reason then it's safe to assume that it's the PSU who is acting up.
PSU issue can be easily validated with 2nd, known to work, good (or great) quality PSU.

If you do end up replacing your PSU, i suggest you do your homework 2nd time around.

Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.
Hence why NEVER cheap out on PSU! Also, never buy used PSU either.

For your build 750W unit is enough. Here are best ATX 3.x units to choose from:
link: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atxv3-pcie5-ready-psus-picks-hardware-busters/3/

and the System Event Viewer whilst pretending to know what I'm looking for.

Kernel Power event ID 41 usually shows up when PC looses power suddenly. Usually to do with PSU issue. Rarely, MoBo VRM issue. Can also be issue of the main power grid (e.g wiring in your home). UPS fixes main power grid issues (well, it won't "fix" them, but offers stellar protection against brownouts, surges and blackouts. Given that you buy proper UPS, that is.).

 

[MommaDuck]

That, i do not believe. Well, assembly wise, perhaps. But not by component selection wise.

Since if you did, you would not have bought this:

Because IF you did the background checks for PSU, you've learned that, at best, it is mediocre quality unit. More like low quality (or even crap quality since Gigabyte lies about it's specifications). On top of that, it comes only 5 years of warranty. Which, at today's age, is low for proper PSU.

Official specs: https://www.gigabyte.com/Power-Supply/GP-UD750GM#kf
Review 1: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gigabyte-ud750gm-power-supply-review
Review 2: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/gigabyte-ud750gm-750-w/


PSU reliability can be seen from the warranty length it has been given.
In a nutshell:
up to 2 years - terrible reliability
3 years - poor reliability (e.g Corsair VS/CS)
5 years - mediocre reliability (e.g Be Quiet! Straight Power 11, Seasonic G12, Corsair CX/CXF)
7 years - good reliability (e.g Seasonic Core/Focus GM, Corsair TX/AX)
10 years - great reliability (e.g Seasonic Focus GX/PX, Corsair RMx/HX/HXi/AXi)
12 years - superb reliability (e.g Seasonic Vertex/PRIME)

So, aim for a 10 year warranty PSU. 7 year warranty would be bare minimum.

(E.g my 3x PCs are powered by Seasonic. I have 2x PRIME TX-650 units and one Focus PX-550 unit. Full specs with pics in my sig.)


Random reboots or shutdowns are mostly caused by 2 issues:
1. CPU/GPU overheats and to prevent any damage, system shuts down.
2. PSU fails to deliver enough power to the GPU or fails to keep smooth enough voltage for PC's operation.

First check your CPU/GPU temps, both at idle and under load. If temps are within reason then it's safe to assume that it's the PSU who is acting up.
PSU issue can be easily validated with 2nd, known to work, good (or great) quality PSU.

If you do end up replacing your PSU, i suggest you do your homework 2nd time around.

Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.
Hence why NEVER cheap out on PSU! Also, never buy used PSU either.

For your build 750W unit is enough. Here are best ATX 3.x units to choose from:
link: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atxv3-pcie5-ready-psus-picks-hardware-busters/3/


Kernel Power event ID 41 usually shows up when PC looses power suddenly. Usually to do with PSU issue. Rarely, MoBo VRM issue. Can also be issue of the main power grid (e.g wiring in your home). UPS fixes main power grid issues (well, it won't "fix" them, but offers stellar protection against brownouts, surges and blackouts. Given that you buy proper UPS, that is.).

I'm going to grab some screenshots of temps at different loads and I'll share them here in a second. From what I can tell, temps are good. I can sit at max GPU + CPU power draw just fine, and my fans never go crazy. When choosing the components I did always have ease of cooling in mind.

I just want to add that earlier I had a BSOD not long after loading into RDR2 which gave the error along the lines of: "Attempted execute of NoExecute Memory", which is different from my other crashes since this is the first BSOD rather than instant shutdown.

RDR2 also loading up with issues afterwards where things weren't being rendered properly. (No character model - just eyes and clothes, and I would enter areas of the map where assets all turned black). I restarted the PC and have been playing for a couple hours trouble free now though.

Will report back with temps in a sec.

 

[MommaDuck]

Okay so I'm new to all of this so just let me know if I'm doing anything wrong. I realise that I didn't perform the GPU tests for very long at all - but I feel like the 'switch test' would reveal PSU problems quite quickly anyway - and I've done the constant load one a few times now and the values pretty much hold rock steady for ages.

Imgur link to screenshots

Alternative link at postimg

 

[Aeacus]

and I've done the constant load one a few times now and the values pretty much hold rock steady for ages.

GPU temps are within normal. Actually quite good considering you have RX 7600XT and it peaks at 58C.
RX 7600XT usually hovers around 60-70C during load, depending which AIB model you have,
review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/sapphire-radeon-rx-7600-xt-pulse/38.html


Your CPU temps, however, are not normal. Your CPU is getting way too hot.
Under max load, R5 7600X with proper CPU cooler (Noctua NH-U14S), should see ~88C. On gaming loads, even less,
review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-5-7600x/25.html

Yours, however, peaks at 95C, which is Tjmax for your chip,
specs: https://www.amd.com/en/products/processors/desktops/ryzen/7000-series/amd-ryzen-5-7600x.html

So, what kind of CPU cooler you have? I don't see it listed above within PC specs.

Overheating CPU can cause all sorts of BSoD and other issues, including the random shut downs you're seeing.

Also, how many case fans you have? Their size? Their orientation (e.g front intake or front exhaust)? And case fan specs too.
The 5x stock fans that come with the PC case? Or have you replaced case fans?

Since clearly, something is wrong with CPU cooling. Else-ways, you won't see such high temps out of your chip.

 

[MommaDuck]

GPU temps are within normal. Actually quite good considering you have RX 7600XT and it peaks at 58C.
RX 7600XT usually hovers around 60-70C during load, depending which AIB model you have,
review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/sapphire-radeon-rx-7600-xt-pulse/38.html


Your CPU temps, however, are not normal. Your CPU is getting way too hot.
Under max load, R5 7600X with proper CPU cooler (Noctua NH-U14S), should see ~88C. On gaming loads, even less,
review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-5-7600x/25.html

Yours, however, peaks at 95C, which is Tjmax for your chip,
specs: https://www.amd.com/en/products/processors/desktops/ryzen/7000-series/amd-ryzen-5-7600x.html

So, what kind of CPU cooler you have? I don't see it listed above within PC specs.

Overheating CPU can cause all sorts of BSoD and other issues, including the random shut downs you're seeing.

Also, how many case fans you have? Their size? Their orientation (e.g front intake or front exhaust)? And case fan specs too.
The 5x stock fans that come with the PC case? Or have you replaced case fans?

Since clearly, something is wrong with CPU cooling. Else-ways, you won't see such high temps out of your chip.

I have a thermalright phantom spirit 120 SE. Antec Flux case with stock case fans (but was voted GamersNexus' case of the year for stock thermals). I mean, even the air flowing inside and coming out the exhaust fans is cool to the touch when gaming.

Furthermore - that's just how zen 4 CPUs work. They boost up to Tjmax and try to operate there in all-core workloads. Regardless, my CPU doesn't even get close to Tjmax when gaming - infact, I don't think i've even seen it get close to 80C.

You can see here where Linus mentions this feature of AMD's Zen4 thermal management strategy

Also, see this direct quote from AMD themselves!

 

[Aeacus]

Furthermore - that's just how zen 4 CPUs work.

Yes, but you'll get thermal throttle and reduced performance when your chip is close to/at Tjmax.

They boost up to Tjmax and try to operate there in all-core workloads.

The two sources you linked, did showcase much beefier CPUs to operate at Tjmax, while Linuses video even showcased thermal throttle.

But when it comes to R5 7600X, it should not reach Tjmax on synthetic load.

At 7:18 here (essentially same temps as in TechPowerUP review i linked);

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGuFq3jm9hM&t=437s


But your Cinebench run showed your chip at Tjmax (peak temp in HWinfo64).

I have a thermalright phantom spirit 120 SE

That's current king of air coolers and you should have below 90C temps during CPU bench.

Just to confirm if HWinfo64 doesn't report temps wrong, set your CPU cooler fans and all case fans at 100% and run the bench again with HWinfo64 open (might even want to start it's Logging feature). It will be noisy, but it's only for the duration of testing.

If the peak temps drop from 95C, then we at least know that CPU cooling is adequate. But it could then mean that you're running your fans (including CPU cooler fans) too slowly (most likely to reduce noise).

You could even try to game on fans 100% to see, if it makes a difference (do you still experience crashes/reboots or not).
Since when we can figure out what the culprit is (either thermals or PSU), you may not need to spend money to replace PSU. Could be very well that all you need, is more aggressive fan profile for better CPU cooling. (Or adding additional fans as top exhaust.)

Antec Flux case with stock case fans (but was voted GamersNexus' case of the year for stock thermals).

GN tests PC cases with stock fans and since yours comes with 5x fans pre-installed, it has easy path to the top of the charts. Especially when competing cases have 2-3 pre-installed fans. Now, if all PC cases tested would be tested by populating all possible fan mounts, it would be completely different story.

Speaking of it, a comparison;

Spoiler: Two pictures (click here to view)

What you think, which of the two has better thermals;

1. Corsair 760T (white) with stock fans;
* 2x 140mm front intake Corsair AF140L white LED fans
* 1x 140mm rear exhaust Corsair AF140L fan

or
2. Corsair 760T (black) with user replaced fans;
* 2x 140mm front intake Corsair ML140 Pro red LED fans
* 1x 120mm bottom intake Corsair ML120 Pro red LED fan
* 1x 140mm rear exhaust Corsair ML140 Pro red LED fan
* 3x 140mm top exhaust NZXT AER140 RGB fans

And how much a difference you think there is between the stock and upgraded one?

 

[JayGau]

I have a thermalright phantom spirit 120 SE. Antec Flux case with stock case fans (but was voted GamersNexus' case of the year for stock thermals). I mean, even the air flowing inside and coming out the exhaust fans is cool to the touch when gaming.

Furthermore - that's just how zen 4 CPUs work. They boost up to Tjmax and try to operate there in all-core workloads. Regardless, my CPU doesn't even get close to Tjmax when gaming - infact, I don't think i've even seen it get close to 80C.

You can see here where Linus mentions this feature of AMD's Zen4 thermal management strategy

Also, see this direct quote from AMD themselves!

All this "the Zen4 architecture is designed to run at max temp" smells so fishy. Feels like AMD had some thermal issues with their design and tried to do some damage control PR with this "by design" claim. The CPU downclocks itself when reaching max temp (thermal throttling), so constantly be at that point would mean that the chip is constantly underperforming. By the way, the tests in your YouTube video show that only the flagship 7950x runs at Tjmax, the 7600x never reaches it with any coolers.

But none of this really matters if you are far from Tjmax when your games or computer crash. And according to my experience, the most common cause of this is RAM instability. Especially if you are trying to run a 6000 MT/s CL30 kit on an AM5 board at 1.35 V. Try to play your games without expo enabled. If you enable expo, crank up the voltage to 1.4 V. See if it's still crashing.

You could also try to run the AIDA64 stress test with memory included (important to include the memory). If you have RAM instability the test will likely stop at some point and say it had to abort because it detected a hardware problem. If AIDA can run without errors for 15-20 minutes then the system is likely stable.

 

[Aeacus]

All this "the Zen4 architecture is designed to run at max temp" smells so fishy. Feels like AMD had some thermal issues with their design and tried to do some damage control PR with this "by design" claim. The CPU downclocks itself when reaching max temp (thermal throttling), so constantly be at that point would mean that the chip is constantly underperforming.

It's not only AMD but Intel too, since 12th gen.

From 12th gen, Intel top-end chips operated in 90C area,
review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i9-12900k-alder-lake-12th-gen/21.html

While starting from 13th gen, the 95C/100C operating temp became the new "norm",
review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i9-13900k/23.html

And when chip reaches Tjmax on stock clocks, it means there's 0 OC headroom. Hence why today, CPU OC is dead.

Back in the old days, e.g Intel 6th gen, i7-6700K peaked at 73C with stock clocks (Tjmax 100C), giving plenty of OC headroom,
review: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/skylake-intel-core-i7-6700k-core-i5-6600k,4252-11.html

But what we see today, all comes down to where CPU makers have to release better and better performing CPUs (compared to previous gen), while the R&D in efficiency is lacking way behind. Latest top-end chips are already operating at Tjmax and ceiling is hit. Now, CPU makes have to invest into efficiency, since there is no way to increase performance.
That, actually, Intel has begun to do, with their latest Core Ultra 200 series. Latest chips are more power efficient but since there's almost no performance uplift over previous (14th gen), almost no-one is buying the latest Intel chips. Especially since those cost considerably more than previous gen. And current AMD offering (Ryzen 9000-series) is both cheaper and at times, better performing as well.
Though times for CPU makers currently.

Only BIOS setting I have changed is enabled EXPO.

In terms of RAM, download and run memtest86,
link: https://www.memtest86.com/

Guide to install and use it: https://www.memtest86.com/tech_creating-window.html

1 full pass (all 15 tests) is bare minimum. 2 full passes are better while 4 full passes is considered acceptable.
Since it takes a while, best to let it run overnight. 1x 8GB one full pass takes ~1h. 2x 8GB ~2.5h. So, ~5h for your 2x 16GB per 1 pass. Or ~20h for 4 full passes.

If there are no errors - RAM is sound.

 

[JayGau]

It's not only AMD but Intel too, since 12th gen.

From 12th gen, Intel top-end chips operated in 90C area,
review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i9-12900k-alder-lake-12th-gen/21.html

While starting from 13th gen, the 95C/100C operating temp became the new "norm",
review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i9-13900k/23.html

And when chip reaches Tjmax on stock clocks, it means there's 0 OC headroom. Hence why today, CPU OC is dead.

Back in the old days, e.g Intel 6th gen, i7-6700K peaked at 73C with stock clocks (Tjmax 100C), giving plenty of OC headroom,
review: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/skylake-intel-core-i7-6700k-core-i5-6600k,4252-11.html

But what we see today, all comes down to where CPU makers have to release better and better performing CPUs (compared to previous gen), while the R&D in efficiency is lacking way behind. Latest top-end chips are already operating at Tjmax and ceiling is hit. Now, CPU makes have to invest into efficiency, since there is no way to increase performance.
That, actually, Intel has begun to do, with their latest Core Ultra 200 series. Latest chips are more power efficient but since there's almost no performance uplift over previous (14th gen), almost no-one is buying the latest Intel chips. Especially since those cost considerably more than previous gen. And current AMD offering (Ryzen 9000-series) is both cheaper and at times, better performing as well.
Though times for CPU makers currently.

Yeah it's one of the reasons why I skipped the 7000 series, but I jumped on the 9800X3D as soon as it got released.

 

[MommaDuck]

It's not only AMD but Intel too, since 12th gen.

From 12th gen, Intel top-end chips operated in 90C area,
review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i9-12900k-alder-lake-12th-gen/21.html

While starting from 13th gen, the 95C/100C operating temp became the new "norm",
review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i9-13900k/23.html

And when chip reaches Tjmax on stock clocks, it means there's 0 OC headroom. Hence why today, CPU OC is dead.

Back in the old days, e.g Intel 6th gen, i7-6700K peaked at 73C with stock clocks (Tjmax 100C), giving plenty of OC headroom,
review: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/skylake-intel-core-i7-6700k-core-i5-6600k,4252-11.html

But what we see today, all comes down to where CPU makers have to release better and better performing CPUs (compared to previous gen), while the R&D in efficiency is lacking way behind. Latest top-end chips are already operating at Tjmax and ceiling is hit. Now, CPU makes have to invest into efficiency, since there is no way to increase performance.
That, actually, Intel has begun to do, with their latest Core Ultra 200 series. Latest chips are more power efficient but since there's almost no performance uplift over previous (14th gen), almost no-one is buying the latest Intel chips. Especially since those cost considerably more than previous gen. And current AMD offering (Ryzen 9000-series) is both cheaper and at times, better performing as well.
Though times for CPU makers currently.


In terms of RAM, download and run memtest86,
link: https://www.memtest86.com/

Guide to install and use it: https://www.memtest86.com/tech_creating-window.html

1 full pass (all 15 tests) is bare minimum. 2 full passes are better while 4 full passes is considered acceptable.
Since it takes a while, best to let it run overnight. 1x 8GB one full pass takes ~1h. 2x 8GB ~2.5h. So, ~5h for your 2x 16GB per 1 pass. Or ~20h for 4 full passes.

If there are no errors - RAM is sound.

Yeah I just did 2 passes of memtest and no errors. Honestly I kind of give up at this point. I'm not a PC specialist and I don't have the expertise to track down the issue. I just feel like setting up a complete return for all the parts and saying goodbye to PCs. There's too many variables that are difficult to isolate and I don't have donor parts to test everything through elimination. I don't even know if the problem is hardware or software. It's just all BS and I shouldn't have this burden after spending ~£1400.

 

[Aeacus]

I don't even know if the problem is hardware or software.

It's hardware since you already ruled out software by doing this:

redownloaded Windows 11 to a freshly formatted USB, and did a complete fresh install.

Now, you have also eliminated RAM from possible culprits.

For what info you've shared with us, 2 things pop out:
* way too high CPU temps
* poor PSU

As i said above, random reboots/shut downs are mainly caused by either high thermals (which your CPU does struggle with) or poor PSU (which your PSU is).

Did you ramp CPU cooler fans + case fans to the max, to see if CPU doesn't go to 95C during Cinebench?

Or you could just go with new, good quality PSU, to rule out PSU issue. Even when issue remains, at least you got PSU upgrade out of it.

It's just all BS and I shouldn't have this burden after spending ~£1400.

Running PC sub-optimally and neglecting it can cause all sorts of issues. Same with poor component selection (namely PSU).

As far as the price goes, i'm indifferent about it. E.g my main build (Skylake), costed me €4705.67 in total (or £4013.47) and it has been running optimally for the past 9 years now, since i take a very good care of my PC (all of my PCs in that matter).

Look it this way; if you build a house and cheap out on foundation, then it doesn't matter how fancy of a villa/castle you build on top and how much it costs, once the foundation gives out and whole thing starts sinking/tilting. With PCs, same is with PSU.
I said it before and i'll say it again: Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.

And to me, it doesn't matter if the whole build costed €/$/£ 500 or €/$/£ 5000. No PC should ever run off from a poor PSU.

 

[MommaDuck]

It's hardware since you already ruled out software by doing this:


Now, you have also eliminated RAM from possible culprits.

For what info you've shared with us, 2 things pop out:
* way too high CPU temps
* poor PSU

As i said above, random reboots/shut downs are mainly caused by either high thermals (which your CPU does struggle with) or poor PSU (which your PSU is).

Did you ramp CPU cooler fans + case fans to the max, to see if CPU doesn't go to 95C during Cinebench?

Or you could just go with new, good quality PSU, to rule out PSU issue. Even when issue remains, at least you got PSU upgrade out of it.


Running PC sub-optimally and neglecting it can cause all sorts of issues. Same with poor component selection (namely PSU).

As far as the price goes, i'm indifferent about it. E.g my main build (Skylake), costed me €4705.67 in total (or £4013.47) and it has been running optimally for the past 9 years now, since i take a very good care of my PC (all of my PCs in that matter).

Look it this way; if you build a house and cheap out on foundation, then it doesn't matter how fancy of a villa/castle you build on top and how much it costs, once the foundation gives out and whole thing starts sinking/tilting. With PCs, same is with PSU.
I said it before and i'll say it again: Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.

And to me, it doesn't matter if the whole build costed €/$/£ 500 or €/$/£ 5000. No PC should ever run off from a poor PSU.

Can you help me with choosing a new PSU then please? Requirements are fully modular and 140mm (or less) in length. I guess i'll try to get something 1000w too if i'm spending the money and trying to future proof.

 

[Aeacus]

I guess i'll try to get something 1000w too

1kW unit and 140mm length or less? That's a tall order. Unless you go with SFX PSU and not ATX PSU.

One of the few such ATX PSUs that i know of (140mm), is Seasonic Focus GX-1000 ATX 3.1,
specs: https://seasonic.com/focus-gx-atx-3/
egg: https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-foc...00-w-80-plus-gold-certified/p/N82E16817151270

It's slim pickings. Another ATX 1kW unit (130mm), is Super Flower Leadex V Pro Gold,
specs: https://www.super-flower.com.tw/en/products/leadex-v-gold-pro-1000w-bk
egg: https://www.newegg.com/p/3C6-02HE-00034

There are few others as well, but either those aren't available (e.g Super Flower Leadex V Pro Platinum), aren't good ones (found one Thermaltake unit) or i can't validate their quality (Super Flower Zillion FG series) since there are no reviews.

The two options i gave, are solid options and would be what i'd get for myself also. (Seasonic is bit better option since it's ATX 3.x. Super Flower unit is ATX 2.x.) Either one of these two, or relax your requirements (either the 140mm length or 1kW capacity), IF you want more options.