[SOLVED] Gigabyte GA-Z170X-GAMING 7-EU Will not Post Mostly

[Dishpet]

MB: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-GAMING 7-EU s1151 Rev 1.0 - (Bios - f20 - updated after failure events and it did fully boot to OS once so far afterwards)
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz LGA1151 8MB
CPU Cooler: BE QUIET! DARK ROCK PRO 3
Memory: 32GB - 4 x 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 - CMK16GX4M2B3000C15
Graphics Card : GIGABYTE GV-N105TD5-4GD, NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 1050 TI
PSU: Corsair RM650x (New - Replaced PSU after Initial Problem - Previously CORSAIR 650W RMX (CP-9020091-EU))
SSD: 525.0 GB CRUCIAL MX300, CT525MX300SSD1, SATA3
HDD: 2000.0 GB WESTERN DIGITAL Caviar Black, WD2003FZEX, SATA3, 64MB cache, 7200
OS: Win 7

Above build ran for 6 years.

Problem:

Motherboard attempts to reboot but fails. Motherboard turns on, cpu gpu, case fans turn on for about 5 seconds and then shuts down. Occasionally, after a while I can get it to boot to bios. Occasionally it will do a full boot and the OS will come up and operate for around 5-7 minutes then windows will visibly (windows says shutting down) shut down. Led trouble code display on motherboard does display while attempting to boot, but does not seem to display the same trouble code when it does fail.

Have tried:

Disconnecting mouse, hard drives, keyboard, dvd drive, reseating all cables, replaced PSU, removed all memory, replaced memory one stick at a time, verified XMP not enabled, removed external graphics card and used the the internal graphics, replaced CMOS battery, reset BIOS, reset BIOS to Optimum defaults. Examined event reports from windows with little insight as to any specific problem. All the above incremental steps (Each Step a new test was performed) were met with the same results as the motherboard mostly did not post and would occasionally post to bios.

I am truly at my wits end. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

events .evtx file If it might help

 

[Darkbreeze]

Multiple, not same codes. Tried all the things you've already tried. Bad board. Very unlikely that it's anything else and given the age of the board, which is more like 8-9 years old, not surprising in the least. If a board lasts anywhere from five to ten years, or anything in between, and is a daily driver that sees frequent use, I would not AT ALL be surprised to see a failure happen.

The fact that you have the same problem, with randomly different Q-codes (Which itself is often an indication of a faulty or failing board), using graphics card OR integrated, multiple power supplies, individual DIMMs and I'm going to assume that you DID make some attempt to POST with ALL storage devices disconnected COMPLETELY from both the SATA headers AND power, to eliminate any of them as the source of the problem, tells me, bad board. Also assuming, when you used the integrated graphics you COMPLETELY removed the graphics card as well.

That would be your pretty much last step. Remove graphics card. Remove ALL storage devices. Remove all but ONE stick of memory and make sure it is installed in the A2 slot. You can afterwards try again with the same, or another DIMM, in the same A2 slot and then just to be sure it's not a slot issue, try the B2 slot with two different ones, one at a time, as well. If you do that, so that nothing is connected but one stick of memory, the integrated graphics, the power supply and the CPU cooler, and you still have the same problem, then it must be a board issue.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

MB: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-GAMING 7-EU s1151 Rev 1.0 - (Bios - f20 - updated after failure events and it did fully boot to OS once so far afterwards)
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz LGA1151 8MB
OS: Win 7
Might want to see if you can install Windows 10 on your platform.

Memory: 32GB - 4 x 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 - CMK16GX4M2B3000C15
I'd try with 2 sticks of ram, though looking up that SKU for your ram, I see it's a 2x kit, meaning that you have 2 kits in total. Are both kits of ram of the same PCB revision numbers? Also, might want to see if you can borrow, not buy, a stick of ram from your friend or neighbor who has DDR4 ram so you can troubleshoot.

Inspect the entire motherboard for any blown or bulging capacitors.

 

[Dishpet]

Thank You for the responses. @ Darkbr

Multiple, not same codes. Tried all the things you've already tried. Bad board. Very unlikely that it's anything else and given the age of the board, which is more like 8-9 years old, not surprising in the least. If a board lasts anywhere from five to ten years, or anything in between, and is a daily driver that sees frequent use, I would not AT ALL be surprised to see a failure happen.

The fact that you have the same problem, with randomly different Q-codes (Which itself is often an indication of a faulty or failing board), using graphics card OR integrated, multiple power supplies, individual DIMMs and I'm going to assume that you DID make some attempt to POST with ALL storage devices disconnected COMPLETELY from both the SATA headers AND power, to eliminate any of them as the source of the problem, tells me, bad board. Also assuming, when you used the integrated graphics you COMPLETELY removed the graphics card as well.

That would be your pretty much last step. Remove graphics card. Remove ALL storage devices. Remove all but ONE stick of memory and make sure it is installed in the A2 slot. You can afterwards try again with the same, or another DIMM, in the same A2 slot and then just to be sure it's not a slot issue, try the B2 slot with two different ones, one at a time, as well. If you do that, so that nothing is connected but one stick of memory, the integrated graphics, the power supply and the CPU cooler, and you still have the same problem, then it must be a board issue.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

Yes I have tried Only 1 stick in the A2 slot and different sticks in the same slot. External GPU completely removed and was only using the internal on the motherboard. Only things that were connected to the board was cpu, psu, and 1 Ram stick.. No ssds, hdd, dvd drives, mice, keyboards or anything else was hooked up. Also tried different outlets as well just to even remotely eliminate that remote possibility as well.

 

[Dishpet]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

MB: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-GAMING 7-EU s1151 Rev 1.0 - (Bios - f20 - updated after failure events and it did fully boot to OS once so far afterwards)
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz LGA1151 8MB
OS: Win 7
Might want to see if you can install Windows 10 on your platform.

Memory: 32GB - 4 x 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 - CMK16GX4M2B3000C15
I'd try with 2 sticks of ram, though looking up that SKU for your ram, I see it's a 2x kit, meaning that you have 2 kits in total. Are both kits of ram of the same PCB revision numbers? Also, might want to see if you can borrow, not buy, a stick of ram from your friend or neighbor who has DDR4 ram so you can troubleshoot.

Inspect the entire motherboard for any blown or bulging capacitors.

Tried with one and two sticks of ram in varying combinations and still the same. I cant recall exactly if it was 2 - 8gb kits or 1 32 gb kit. Found all the receipts in my email for the other parts but that receipt seems to elude me unfortunately. I have had Win 10 and Linux Mint on another SSD hooked up to it but it had the same problems. It would shut down as well after a while unfortunately. I wanted to eliminate the possibility of an OS corruption.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Then I would be very hard pressed to want to say it could be anything other than the board. Because, there is nothing else it could be, and the symptoms line up with what we very often see. Obviously you can do a visual inspection to see if there are any obvious signs of leaking or swollen capacitors on the board, or any burnt/darkened areas or traces, but honestly those are the exceptions when a board fails and not the rule. Usually there simply isn't anything to see regardless that something on the board has failed.

It's unfortunate, because finding a replacement board is going to be either expensive or a waste, since compatible models haven't been manufactured in MANY years and anything out there which is used is probably similarly aged as what you have now and still command a premium. You could get lucky if you're willing to take a chance but your much better option at this point might be to simply reuse the DDR4 you have and upgrade to a newer platform with a new board and CPU so that you are not throwing good money after bad.

You can get into something from the 12th Gen Intel, with a board and CPU fairly inexpensively and if you choose one of the DDR4 board models wouldn't have to buy new memory, necessarily. Or even something from the Ryzen 5xxx series. For around a 300 dollar investment you could increase your performance by about an average of like 41% in single core and 120% in multicore performance. Since even a used replacement board would likely cost you anywhere from 100-150 bucks if you want to find something decent or even more for finding something that is "new old stock" and has never been used, but which might STILL suffer from some capacitor aging, adding another 150 to it to achieve those kinds of gains seems a good option but understandably finances don't always allow for what makes sense so I'm sure you know what's best in your own interests.

 

[Dishpet]

Thank You Darkbreeze and Lutfij for your help!! I appreciate it!!!

 

[Darkbreeze]

You are, of course, welcome. Anytime, we just try to help. We are all volunteers and our reward is when it helps somebody. That's it. And that's all.

 

[lolvatveo]

try update to latest bios

 

[Darkbreeze]

try update to latest bios

Try updating the BIOS on a board that stays on for five seconds most attempts before shutting down? Yeah, no.

Not only is it bad advice that might likely end up causing an even worse problem for some other user were they to try this on a board with similar behavior, but it's extremely unlikely you'd even be able to get that far as the best outcome the OP had meant potentially five to seven minutes which is still not enough (And still a huge risk) especially since this board lacks any variant of BIOS flashback in order to update it without being powered on. Besides which, I've never, not once, seen a board that could not remain powered on without automatically shutting down that was fixed via a BIOS update. Lot's, tons, of other problems, but not automatically and systematically shutting itself off.

That is simply a bad board, or some other bad component, but the OP already replaced or swapped out everything else it could be which means the motherboard is the only remaining culprit. It's not a good idea to recommend updating the BIOS on an unstable system that can't or intermittently won't remain powered on. Good way to brick somebody's board that might not have needed to be replaced, in cases other than this one.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Dust isn't going to make the system reboot after five seconds either. Unless there is a three inch layer of it and no working CPU cooler. That is not the case here.

 

[USAFRet]

I had to WASHHH my computer, including the power supply, with a garden hose (moderate jets of water will blow away dust). i took my psu apart for a full wash

Um...no....

Whoever else may be reading this, today or 10 years from now....DO NOT DO THIS.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Um...no....

Whoever else may be reading this, today or 10 years from now....DO NOT DO THIS.

Ever. Ever, ever, ever, ever, EVVVVVERRRRRR!!!