[SOLVED] GPU Black screens on Load

[kkristapss.m]

So i recently bought a new video card a Gigabyte Gtx 960 / GV-N960WF2OC-2GD
I bought it used and as it turns out it looks like it was a bad idea.
The Problem goes a little like this - You can boot to windows easily with no problems
the drivers dont pose any problems either and it just works in every way.

Accept when you put a load on the GPU then it makes a click noise (The GPU itself somehow)
and just disables its video output so basically "Blackscreens" and when you restart the pc
it just works again and after you have rebooted the system in the windows notifications
you can find an error that goes something a little like this "Display driver failed to start"

I dont think its the PSU problem because I have tried this GPU in several systems
that had drastically diffrent PSU's and still same result
And in one of the systems i tested it in it refused to even post so yeah.

Here are my specs for the main system that i did most of the testing in :
Intel i5 3470 (LGA 1155)
8 Gb of ddr3 ram (4Gb + 4Gb) 1666mhz
2x WD blue 250 gb HDD
XILANCE XN051 | XP400R7

 

[Darkbreeze]

Neither of those power supplies are worth the cost of the metal it took to build them. Both are low quality. Pretty much ALL Xilance power supplies are junk and cannot supply their rated wattage.

Example: https://www.hardwareinsights.com/xilence-performance-c-series-xp400r6-review/7/#Conclusion-and-evaluation

And since EVEN AT the rated wattage of those units, you are below the recommended wattage for a GTX 960, which is a minimum of 430w, although it might still work fine with a very good 400w unit, it would be close.

http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm

I'd recommend testing with a PSU or in a system that HAS a much better, higher capacity unit.

If you get the same result with a GOOD 450w or higher unit, then I'd agree that the card is probably shot. Keep in mind as well, that if you were having issues with your previous graphics card using those power supplies, it too might not be bad. You could simply have a case of rotten PSUs rather than bad cards. Certainly it COULD just be a bad card though.

Click here for more:

Spoiler

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

80plus only has relevance if the platform is already known to be a good one AND you only know whether the platform is good or not when there are professional reviews of that specific unit

Seasonic. Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions. Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have good and not very good. Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model) and G1 NEX models. Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JG for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=563

And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.

Power supply discussion thread​

Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include A-Top, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Evo labs, EZ cool, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, Rocketfish, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.

 

[kkristapss.m]

Neither of those power supplies are worth the cost of the metal it took to build them. Both are low quality. Pretty much ALL Xilance power supplies are junk and cannot supply their rated wattage.

Example: https://www.hardwareinsights.com/xilence-performance-c-series-xp400r6-review/7/#Conclusion-and-evaluation

And since EVEN AT the rated wattage of those units, you are below the recommended wattage for a GTX 960, which is a minimum of 430w, although it might still work fine with a very good 400w unit, it would be close.

http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm

I'd recommend testing with a PSU or in a system that HAS a much better, higher capacity unit.

If you get the same result with a GOOD 450w or higher unit, then I'd agree that the card is probably shot. Keep in mind as well, that if you were having issues with your previous graphics card using those power supplies, it too might not be bad. You could simply have a case of rotten PSUs rather than bad cards.

Click here for more:

Spoiler

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

80plus only has relevance if the platform is already known to be a good one AND you only know whether the platform is good or not when there are professional reviews of that specific unit

Seasonic. Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions. Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have good and not very good. Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model) and G1 NEX models. Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JG for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=563

And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.

Power supply discussion thread​

Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include A-Top, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Evo labs, EZ cool, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, Rocketfish, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.

Well it actually might very plausible that my PSU's are simply garbage bcz in the system
that i use the XILANCE PSU i Have an 75watt GPU (GeForce® GTX 1050 Ti 4G OCV1) without any external power such as 6 pins and 8 pins
If i do decide to buy a new power supply il keep this Thred Updated so others can learn from this.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Again, it's worth repeating that I'm not SAYING that the PSU is your problem, definitely, just that it's a very probable possibility that you want to look at.

I'd highly recommend replacing it with a quality unit no matter what, but testing with another unit first might help you in the short term to determine if it's the problem. If you don't have access to a higher quality or higher capacity unit you can borrow for testing, then just replacing it might not be the worst idea ever and if you do I'd highly recommend getting something at least 550w so that if you decide to upgrade the graphics card later you will be less likely to need to once again get a better unit. No such thing really as overkill, to a degree, when it comes to power supplies.

They'll only use what they are asked for so you don't waste anything by having a higher powered unit than you actually need PLUS they tend to run with much lower levels of voltage regulation fluctuation, ripple and electrical noise when there is a fair amount of available overhead so that they are not running near their capacity, and they'll run much cooler and quieter besides.

 

[kkristapss.m]

Yesterday i got bored and and started checking the GPU's pcb and as it turnt out there was an ic missing on the high voltage rail.

So i bought another one and soldered it on and the GPU works just fine now.
So yeah the GPU turn out to be faulty

 

[Darkbreeze]

How does that even happen? ICs don't generally just "fall off". Anyhow, at least you got it figured out although I have to say I'm skeptical that you could just "solder" a new IC onto a PCB and have it work. Either way though, if it's working, then great.

 

[kkristapss.m]

How does that even happen? ICs don't generally just "fall off". Anyhow, at least you got it figured out although I have to say I'm skeptical that you could just "solder" a new IC onto a PCB and have it work. Either way though, if it's working, then great.

The ic was clearly ripped of the pcb becouse normal emty spaces to solder stuff on the solder joints were pre balled
so the solder was nice and round but on the place where i found an ic missing was clearly not nice and round solder
balls it was curved and such as so you could see clearly that there was somthing missing like the ic's legs
but anyways cheers

 

[Darkbreeze]

And you just happened to have the IC that belonged in that spot, but didn't know it was supposed to have been there before?

I'm calling BS on this one because even if you had somehow ordered a new IC, if you could even source one, you couldn't have purchased and received it, and then installed it, in the amount of time between when you posted this thread and when you said it was fixed.

And if you did have the old IC, then you had to know from the start that it wouldn't be right trying to run it without it. Nothing about this entire story even makes any sense. I'm calling troll on this whole thing.