H100i Vs. H110

[Leamon]

Should I get the H100i or H110? They are exactly the same price on Newegg, and I just want to know the benefits of each, as well as your personal opinion. I have a Carbide Air 540 and a 4770k. Thanks!

 

[Xibyth]

The difference between a corsair h100i and a noctua nh-d14 is 1-2 degrees. So basically nothing. No point to buy it. Water coolers are just noisy and expensive. They are a fad. Proper watercooling is the way to go if you want water cooling. Otherwise air is the obvious choice unless you are trying to spend extra money for noise and the ability to say you have water cooling. (although these closed loop coolers don't really qualify as actual watercooling)

That is if you have the RAM and GPU clearence. Closed loops are great for smaller builds. Generally I agree air cooling is the more stable, silent way to go.

 

[JackNaylorPE]

Here ya can see the Noctua DH-15 and Cryorig topping everything else but the Swiftech

And the R1 clears RAM slots

Hate white drawings on black background .... at bottom of page here

http://www.cryorig.com/r1-universal.php

 

[Guest]

Do you think you are normal? People are trying to help you and are making an effort to recommend you the best things and what do they recieve? A nasty answer from you sayin that either they are stupid or they are unhelpful.
I would recommend you no to be like that. But if you dont want to, ok, go ahead, insult me! But i wont make you any better.

 

[Terrance Jackson]

So is the Noctua still the best in closed looped water cooling? Corsair is really marketing their product hard at microcenter and frys.

 

[JackNaylorPE]

Noctua doesn't male a closed loop water cooler (CLC). The Noctua air cooler beats just about every CLC on the market.

Swiftech makes the best all-in-one water cooler but unlike CLC's.

1. It's not closed loop, you can open and expand the loop.
2. It uses all copper components unlike CLC's w/ aluminum rads.
3. No mixed metals in Swiftech n=so no galvanic corrosion
4. No context thermally
5. No contest acoustically
6. Swiftech has a reservoir

 

[IamTimTech]

Should I get the H100i or H100? They are exactly the same price on Newegg, and I just want to know the benefits of each, as well as your personal opinion. I have a Carbide Air 540 and a 4770k. Thanks!

you will need to change the fans on those , they are noisy and annoying so be careful you will pay alot more than you think for 2 fans. around 40$ more.

Gee, thanks for answering none of my questions!

Lol. Get the H100i my friend

 

[IamTimTech]

Noctua doesn't male a closed loop water cooler (CLC). The Noctua air cooler beats just about every CLC on the market.

Swiftech makes the best all-in-one water cooler but unlike CLC's.

1. It's not closed loop, you can open and expand the loop.
2. It uses all copper components unlike CLC's w/ aluminum rads.
3. No mixed metals in Swiftech n=so no galvanic corrosion
4. No context thermally
5. No contest acoustically
6. Swiftech has a reservoir

The Noctua NH-D14 ties the H100i. NH-D15 does in fact beat out the H100i. But I agree if you are going to water cool you should get a nice system.

 

[JackNaylorPE]

This is like the thread that won't die

Curious as to why getting the 100i is attractive if as you say the $25 Noc DH-14 "ties it" thermally .... and crushes it acoustically ? The Phanteks PC-TC14-PE beats the DH-14 and is $35 cheaper and the H100i is 16 times as loud ? The DH-14 is $25 cheaper and the DH-15

 

[tiny voices]

I agree 100% that the Noctua is the way to go. Cheaper, quieter and better. What more do you need?

 

[IamTimTech]

This is like the thread that won't die

Curious as to why getting the 100i is attractive if as you say the $25 Noc DH-14 "ties it" thermally .... and crushes it acoustically ? The Phanteks PC-TC14-PE beats the DH-14 and is $35 cheaper and the H100i is 16 times as loud ? The DH-14 is $25 cheaper and the DH-15

The NH-D14 is an $80 USD cooler. I am a fan of air cooling, not so much water cooling. But he asked between the two coolers. The H100i is a very capable cooler and honestly is not that loud at all.

 

[tiny voices]

No, it is VERY loud compared to a Noctua. Also, this thread is DEAD and has been for a LONG time.

 

[IamTimTech]

LOL damnit. This is the second dead thread I've posted in today :*(

 

[MayanClock]

This is a top Google result, any comparisons on the newer models? H100i vs H110i?

 

[JackNaylorPE]

No change ..... H100i still sounds like granny's 1950s style vacuum cleaner.... H110 still OK noise wise, not as good as cheaper air coolers. The all in one liquid cooler to beat i still the Swiftech H220-X / H240-X

http://www.swiftech.com/

 

[Jabberwocky1]

I also do not like the closed loop watercooler fad. It needs to die off fast. It obviously it just for show when there are better performing air coolers for less money. When someone who knows about this stuff sees a build with a $100+ closed loop water cooler they know the buyer was not very informed about the decision. An air cooler is always a better idea. It makes WAY less noise, cools the same or better, has ZERO chance of ruining the entire system with a leak, and aids case airflow.

Point is, closed loop water coolers are a waste of money because the same or better performance can be had cheaper with less noise. There is no chance at all that the motherboard will break from an air cooler. I challenge you to find me one case where a motherboard was torn apart by an air cooler. For this to count, the motherboard must be correctly installed and the cooler as well.

 

[Jabberwocky1]

I know this is an old thread, but I just had to reply to this... No big ass ugly air cooler could keep a CPU cooler than a water cooler and it certainly won't help airflow. Think about it. There's more room for the air to circulate with the radiator on the roof of the case, pulling air out and through that radiator, as opposed to a huge block of fins sat in the middle of the case circulating hot air. I've use a corsair H110 and it's the dogs bollox when it comes to keeping an overclocked (4.4GHz) i5 4690K at no more than 69 C. I'd like to see an air cooler doing that. Admitedly I changed the fans to Akasa Vipers 140mm, as they have a higher static pressure and don't sound like a plane taking off compared to the stock fans.

 

[turkey3_scratch]

Dear Leamon,

This is, admittedly, slightly off-topic, but I would like to take this opportunity to give you a few pointers when posting on the Toms Hardware forums.

1) Please be more polite. Do not call someone 'Dyslexic' just because they made a small mistake partially down to you.
2) Accept the advice of Forum members. They will sometimes have far more knowledge than you, so do not disregard their advice.
3) Don't throw hissy fits. It makes you look like a young child.

Please take these into account before posting.

Best Regards
Luke

Yeah, totally my bad, I didn't realize I made the error, and was really annoyed I wasn't getting my question answered. But it was totally my fault. Sorry everyone I appreciate your help. 😀

It's great that you accept this, many aren't wise enough to see what they've done wrong. I know, I used to be like that myself.

I reckon we'll make a forumite of you yet!

It is usually best to admit mistakes when they occur, and to seek to restore honor.

As for the cooling, I get what you guys are saying. By time you buy a $100 water cooler you could just spend that additional $100 on a better CPU or GPU. A custom loop is the way to go if you are serious about actual cooling, a custom loop with a powerful pump, good resorvoir, and a large radiator with great fans.

 

[JackNaylorPE]

And one thing that still astounds me, with all the **perceived** concern about a big heavy hunk of metal flexing the Mobo. .... Why the big concern about 2 pounds of metal cantilevered over 4"..... and yet nobody worries about the 60 pounds of clamping force applied by the hold down mechanism on the water block / heat sink ?????

http://www.innovationcooling.com/key_to_performance.html

 

[C_1___]

Go with the H100i, it has thicker tubing and digital control. And you're better off with 120mm fans because you need static pressure for radiators. 120mm will produce more static pressure than 140mm any day. If I remember correctly, the H100i was on sale for $89 on Newegg just last week. Though I will warn you that the fans you get from the H100i sound like jet engines. If you're deaf, no problem. But if you want peace and performance at the same time, get Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans, those are pretty much the best all around radiator fans, and they're pretty quiet. You can even get 4 of them and go push-pull if your CPU is made of lava.

Just wanted to ask... how do you get more static pressure out of less surface area? The larger, 140mm fans should push more, and have a higher static pressure, which is why they can run slower than a 120mm and still achieve the same results..

 

[C_1___]

Dear Leamon,

This is, admittedly, slightly off-topic, but I would like to take this opportunity to give you a few pointers when posting on the Toms Hardware forums.

1) Please be more polite. Do not call someone 'Dyslexic' just because they made a small mistake partially down to you.
2) Accept the advice of Forum members. They will sometimes have far more knowledge than you, so do not disregard their advice.
3) Don't throw hissy fits. It makes you look like a young child.

Please take these into account before posting.

Best Regards
Luke

Yeah, totally my bad, I didn't realize I made the error, and was really annoyed I wasn't getting my question answered. But it was totally my fault. Sorry everyone I appreciate your help. 😀

It's great that you accept this, many aren't wise enough to see what they've done wrong. I know, I used to be like that myself.

I reckon we'll make a forumite of you yet!

It is usually best to admit mistakes when they occur, and to seek to restore honor.

As for the cooling, I get what you guys are saying. By time you buy a $100 water cooler you could just spend that additional $100 on a better CPU or GPU. A custom loop is the way to go if you are serious about actual cooling, a custom loop with a powerful pump, good resorvoir, and a large radiator with great fans.

I just thought it might help others who are making similar decisions in the future... so I am going to post a build I am familiar with. This shows the CPU temps after gaming, and the liquid cooled GPU temps after a Furmark burn test..

The hardware is:
i7-4790k @ stock speed w/ turbo @ 4.0-4.4GHz
MSI GTX 970 4G (liquid cooled w/ NZXT G10 bracket, custom fans and a Corsair H105 (sorry, I did not have the H100 comparison data).



The GPU here is overclocked, 200 on the core, 200 on the memory, with it running up to 110% power, and adding a lil more voltage. Furmark scores around 5k. It only hits 35 degrees C under 99% load... consistently.
Here is the direct link in case the image does not work above:

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u81/colormehjewish/GPU%20after%20burntest_zpsuwaial6g.jpg

Now for the CPU temps with an H110 (push/pull - two High static pressure Corsair LED fans, and 2 Noctua NF14). The CPU generally runs up in the 90s under full loads with air cooling... but not in this system. This is also using the case air as the exhaust, as it is located at the top of the case. But it is a hot running CPU either way. Idle air temps are not bad with proper cooling, but liquid cooling will always beat the sustained testing/usage, b/c it is taking the heat outside... and getting rid of it. Not flushing it through the system. And yes, some configs can direct it right out, but you are still allowing that ambient heat to come off the sinks... unlike the header of a AIO cooler, where it is a small plate, and insulated tubing to get the heat out before expelling it.



and this link, in case the image above does not work correctly:

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u81/colormehjewish/h110_zpsi9jdb3qg.jpg


My conclusion is that the liquid cooling is the only way I prefer anymore, and that is b/c it is a tested technology, that has very high reliability, and it extends the life of my parts. I do not saturate my case with heat, and although I do not want a loud system, I do not mind a little noise when I am gaming. After all, I am usually turning it up, and the fan profile adjusts as I play. But the thing to keep in mind is, you cannot go wrong if you can fit a large cooler like the H110. For the price to benefit ratio... it is the best cooling option for your money. I have purchased quite a few refurbished ones even... and NE.com has not let me or my customers down yet. Actually, the cooler on the GPU in the test is a refurb h105. Runs beautifully, and the temps NEVER goes over 35 C under that kind of load, even after hours of gameplay. That is a thicker h100 basically. Its like, if the h100 and h80 had a baby...

You wont have problems with air cooling, but I would recommend the h105 and h110 (not the i models) to people. I cannot attest to the "i" models first hand. Personally, I rather add my own flair to the case, than buy some cooler that will come with some resource intensive software to further clutter my PC. I already run temp monitoring apps at startup in any OS I use, so I can keep an eye on it or take a look if something odd occurs. You can get just as good of control and stats (even better sometimes), by using free software, compared to buying the fancy "i" models.

That is just IMO though. I hope the pics/numbers help with someone's decision when they read this.

 

[Xibyth]

Go with the H100i, it has thicker tubing and digital control. And you're better off with 120mm fans because you need static pressure for radiators. 120mm will produce more static pressure than 140mm any day. If I remember correctly, the H100i was on sale for $89 on Newegg just last week. Though I will warn you that the fans you get from the H100i sound like jet engines. If you're deaf, no problem. But if you want peace and performance at the same time, get Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans, those are pretty much the best all around radiator fans, and they're pretty quiet. You can even get 4 of them and go push-pull if your CPU is made of lava.

Just wanted to ask... how do you get more static pressure out of less surface area? The larger, 140mm fans should push more, and have a higher static pressure, which is why they can run slower than a 120mm and still achieve the same results..

Static pressure is the force they push, cfm is cubic volume of air (airflow). Higher surface area moves more air but at lower pressure.

 

[JackNaylorPE]

I just thought it might help others who are making similar decisions in the future... so I am going to post a build I am familiar with. This shows the CPU temps after gaming, and the liquid cooled GPU temps after a Furmark burn test..

The hardware is:
i7-4790k @ stock speed w/ turbo @ 4.0-4.4GHz
MSI GTX 970 4G (liquid cooled w/ NZXT G10 bracket, custom fans and a Corsair H105 (sorry, I did not have the H100 comparison data).

The GPU here is overclocked, 200 on the core, 200 on the memory, with it running up to 110% power, and adding a lil more voltage. Furmark scores around 5k. It only hits 35 degrees C under 99% load... consistently.

So exactly what has been accomplished ? The card throttles at 80C, so reducing GPU temps below that threshold has absolutely zero impact on performance. The fans on the 970 don't even turn on till 65C and the 970 typically tops out at a whopping 66C when OC'd.

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_970_Gaming/31.html

If anything, the OC on a 970 will be limited by the VRM temperature which the CLC cooling doesn't do a thing about. Some solutions drop VRM cooling altogether while others at best utilize a smaller fan than on the original card cooler. The is one reason and only one reason to use water cooling on a 9xx series card and that is to reduce noise or address VRM cooling. Some manufacturers do a good job with beefier VRMS and thermal pads etc (i.e MSI) and some do not (i.e. EVGA SC). In short, as the VRM temp is the only thing usually affects OC performance, and VRM cooling often worsens with CLC cooling, you can in fact reduce performance my moving to a CLC.

And no, noise is simply a factor of fan rpm. There are no magic fan designs whereby you can replace a 1800rpm fan with a 1200 rpm one and have the same performance. At best you will see a 3C temp difference between comparable fans and that is rare. CLCs like the Corsair must use higher rpm fans to compensate for the poor pump flow (usually about 0.11 gpm) and the cheap aluminum radiators. Look at the radiator performance here. The 326 watts at 2200 rpm becomes only 151 watts at 1000 rpm. The H110 provides thermal performance comparable to the old Noctua NH-D14, but falls behind more modern coolers which are $55 cheaper like the CryorigR1, Noctua NH-D15 and Phanteks PH-TC14PE

My conclusion is that the liquid cooling is the only way I prefer anymore, and that is b/c it is a tested technology, that has very high reliability, and it extends the life of my parts. I do not saturate my case with heat, and although I do not want a loud system, I do not mind a little noise when I am gaming. After all, I am usually turning it up, and the fan profile adjusts as I play. But the thing to keep in mind is, you cannot go wrong if you can fit a large cooler like the H110. For the price to benefit ratio... it is the best cooling option for your money.

There is no justification to the the claims of extended life of parts, heat saturation, and you certainly can go wrong:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/281843-29-corsair-exploded
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2622218/corsair-h80i-exploded-cleanup-suggestions.html

You do realize, that according to Corsair's written instructions, all radiator fans blow INTO the case. So all the heat collected by the cooling system is then blown into the case. If you have adequate case ventilation, this is not an issue but it certainly refutes the case of reducing heat saturation

http://www.corsair.com/~/media/Corsair/download-files/manuals/cooling/H110i_QSG.pdf

Attach the radiator and the fans as shown. For the best cooling performance, we recommend mounting the fans as an air-intake to your PC case

Do it the other way and exhaust, then performance tanks. Thermal performance of liquid cooling depends on the delta T between ambient and coolant temps.

Ambient 23C
Case Interior 28C
Coolant 33C

So what cools better ... 33 - 23 = 10C .... or 28C - 23C = 5C ? You get twice the cooling using 32c outside air than 28C inside air

I can make no argument against liquid cooling .... it's simply a matter of selecting appropriate liquid cooling. CLC's ... aka "faux iquid cooling" simply do not deliver. Why spend $130 on a Corsair H110 (newegg) when you can spend $120 (Swiftech) on a H220-X which has none of the H series disadvantages ? The Swiftech's:

1. Use all copper components for better thermal conductivity.
2. Use real custom loop components, not cheap imitations; every part can be bough separately
3. Allow you to replace individual components.
4. Allow you to expand the system to water cool MoBo, RAM, GFX cards whatever.
5. Have real water pumps, capable of provided in excess of 1.0 gpm (not the 0.11 of Corsair H series)
6. Unlike the Corsair H series do not violate the 1st rule of water cooling ... never mix metals. Corsair uses a copper block and an aluminum radiator. Here's what happens over time with copper and aluminum
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
7. Corsair, like everyone else adds algae and corrosion inhibitors, the effectiveness of which degrades over time. However, Corsair offers no means to replenish these.
8. Thermally kick tail over any CLC ever made.
9. Acoustically kick tail over any CLC that can come close to competing with it thermally.
10. Why pay more to get less ? And tho the newer ones are $10 / $20 more, the cost difference is peanuts compared to the technical, material, expansion and performance advantages,

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40870-swiftech-h220-x-open-loop-240mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=3

The newer H220-X2 is $140 / H240-X2 is $150

However, with a CLC you are limited to only what it is, and only the performance it can deliver as assembled. With that in mind, the H220X makes infinitely more sense as a starting point into liquid cooling. It is ready to go out of the box and requires no maintenance, but it is also fully expandable when you are ready to take the next step. Even if you aren’t looking to take the next step, the H220X outperforms every CLC on the market, and does it at more than 20 dB quieter.

When you break it down, the H220X is a collection of excellent components that simply happen to come in one box. ....Installation of the H220X was very easy, probably the easiest liquid cooler I have ever done.

In terms of performance, well….we could simply leave it at the fact that the H220X is simply the best performing out-of-the-box cooler you can buy today. Period. It slightly betters its predecessor, the H220, as well as the Glacer 240L that is equipped with far more powerful and louder fans. The NZXT X60/61 comes close in terms of performance, but at the expense of far more noise and far less compatibility. 240mm CLCs can’t touch the H220X in all out performance, and at tolerable noise levels the H220X flat out embarrasses them ... We put the best out of the box solutions up against the H220X, and the H220X walked away a clear winner and did so with absolutely astonishing performance to noise. With all of this performance the H220X never topped 40 dB at full speed.

The result of this redesign makes the H220X the best performing cooler that is install ready right out of the box. There is not a 240mm CLC or air cooler that can beat it, and it does it at 20+ dB quieter than the competing CLCs. To sum it up; the H220X offers better performance, lower noise, better aesthetics, flawless design and build, better components and the option of expandability when compared to a CLC. Putting it gently, choosing any CLC over the H220X would be doing yourself a huge disservice.

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/42047-swiftech-h240-x-open-loop-280mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=3

And the performance….I expected the comparison graphs to look a bit absurd in this review, but even I was a bit surprised at just how far in front of the comparison units the H240-X stood. This wasn’t a collection of “also-rans” we compared the H240-X to, these are top performing CLC and air coolers available on the market today and the H240-X flat out embarrassed them in every aspect. The overall max performance was a full five degrees cooler than the nearest comparison unit not manufactured by Swiftech, and that unit used a 360mm radiator and came in nearly 10 dB louder. When we ran our low noise tests the increased passive capabilities of the larger copper/brass radiator really took hold, and the H240-X put up noise/performance levels unlike anything we have ever tested out of a box.

I had stated in my review that the H220-X makes CLCs a non-factor, and the H240-X follows that pattern, but putting even more possibilities on the table. For the novice or CPU only user, the H240-X is simply the best performing cooler you can buy that is ready for install out of the box, and it accomplishes this with incredible quiet. For those looking to expand, the 240mm radiator will handle most GPU additions, while the pump is ready to take on more additions as you see fit. For years, consumers have been excited about the possibility of jumping into liquid cooling. Many held off for fear of complicated setups or expenses, or found themselves with loud CLCs offering mediocre performance. With the X Series, Swiftech has gift wrapped a custom loop, assembled it and delivered it at an astonishingly low price point. In other words, with the H220-X and H240-X, Swiftech is delivering the real liquid cooling performance that those making the jump have craved but haven't gotten, while giving you all of the convenience of a CLC. Whether you are making your initial foray into liquid cooling, are looking for an upgrade from CLC or are an experienced user doing a small loop, the Swiftech X Series should be planted firmly at the top of your “must have” list, and the H240-X is the biggest, baddest member of the series. The H220-X and H240-X are game changers, plain and simple, and are the biggest advance in cooling that we have seen in years.

The purpose of water cooling is to bring an advantage to the user. The CLC doesn't do that. Lowering your GPU temp from 71C to 35C provides no advantage other than bragging rights. A Porsche could get you to work a lot faster than a typical "commuter car" but only if there wasn't this thing called rush hour traffic and speed limits. Lowering your GPU temp to 35C is not doing anything for you. It is not making the card faster and it is not extending card life as "out for the box", at 71 C overclocked, it's still 27C below its maximum temperature limit and 9C below its artificial throttling point. [the 970 was throttled intentionally so as to prevent its performance from competing with he 980 .. all other mid - high end card throttle at 85C].

Noise wise, for example at 1200 rpm fan speed, my SLI'd 780s (almost four times the power draw of your 970) and 4.7 Ghz CPU produce 39C GPU temps, 51C VRM temps and 69C max core temps. But I set my fans to max out at 850 rpm because below that, all fans are completely inaudible. My CPU jumps to 72C under stress testing and the GPU climbs to 44C but as having temps below 40C / 70C does nothing for performance or longevity, I'll take the dead quiet. My son has twin 970s and has a H240-X cooling his CPU. his plan was to add water blocks to the GFX cards but as he is at 58C at stock settings, 68 OC'd while air cooled, he's had little incentive to do so. The only thing you can hear from his box is the PSU fan (EVGA G2 1000) but that has decreased over time.

 

[C_1___]

Just wanted to ask... how do you get more static pressure out of less surface area? The larger, 140mm fans should push more, and have a higher static pressure, which is why they can run slower than a 120mm and still achieve the same results..[/quotemsg]

Static pressure is the force they push, cfm is cubic volume of air (airflow). Higher surface area moves more air but at lower pressure.[/quotemsg]


I think you are confusing a measurement with an understanding. Although it is true that non-ducted systems produce a "negative pressure" measurement, it does NOT decrease pressure as you go larger. The negative static pressure measured is what lowers... Denoting an increase in total static pressure (in dynamic depending on the scenario). But a larger surface area, through deeper tunneling, fan blade angles and blade size all produce MORE static pressure.

In a ducted system, you are running a fan to create positive pressure... And it is the result of the fan working against air, as a "fluidlike" force, gives us a static pressure reading. Static pressure is the amount of force it takes to overcome the constant pressure of a given system. So increasing the surface area, power and shape (including lower tolerances so air does not escape) are your three primary factors in changing/increasing static pressure.

Nust pointing this out b/c you are essentially correct in that the SP is the PUSH or PULL power. But that is a great oversimplification. Static pressure is what moves air when you have the lack of space or flow. The reason a case fan, or fan with smaller blades, higher tolerances between fan and frame and generally high cfm rating.... will not create high static pressure is b/c there is less surface area per blade to "cup" and force the air. If you are not doing this, youre simply blowing air by spinning it and it will be deflected from its path much easier than static pressure. With the static pressure, the "compression" of this air will change the pressure and the air will seek a lower pressure zone. This dual effect helps force air through fins of radiators, and to dissapate once out. This dissipation also serves a dual purpose... It cools the air b/c it is changing pressure zones and breaking the particles away from each other at the same time. As the particles "seek" their comfortable pressure (they are not lost out the sides or holes left in the fan, b/c the pressure will utilize a scavenging effect, With the force exiting where directed. This is also directly related to the tolerances tho... As a smaller space between blade and frame would trap, and actually suck more, in the static pressure domain. An air flow fan may very well lose air from these small areas, but the SP fans do not allow for this misdirection. They are creating pressure to gelp expel, not air flow. It is more like air "force" vs air flow.

But Nomatter how you cut it, a larger surface area will produce higher SP (than the same fan but smaller). Other factors come into play but i think you simply confused the negative measurement for a decreased level of static pressure in larger fans. Larger SP fan absolutely create more static pressure than smaller SP fans in most cases. The only way(s) it would not is if the smaller fan were faster/higher power, with blades to take advantage of the increase in power... And that would generally mean they would need to increase the blade sizes, decrease surround tolerances, or add surface area by introducing more depth and pitch to the blades.

I personally utilize high SP fans even as airflow fans in my PC builds though. The increased force helps with all these extras nowadays... Screens, holes, fancy grills, not to mention components getting in the way and whatnot. I find Noctua to ne the best of both worlds with their 2000 rpm series.

But yes, static pressure is built up, and helps by more than simply pushing air. It is "cupping" larger amounts of air and forcing it into smaller spaces. The air in front and behind it are manipulated as well, and if you have a push/pull config, the pressure between fans is even further compressed.

If it did not compress and instead, just blew through, you would not achieve much of a benefit to two airflow fans in push/pull config. This is bc the air would be deflected by the obstacles(rad fins) and would become turbulent. It would also just pass over the fins, with less air particles to absorb the heat. The high SP in that area forces more air particles in that area, increasing pressure (bc it is essentially ducted), allowing more particles to also draw the heat from the fins, prior to being expelled on the exhaust, where the pressure is lower (this is where the high pressure wants to go, to balance out - the area with lower pressure).


Sorry to ramble on.. Long day. I hope this helps though. And if you do not believe, read up on it. Theres a lot more than you think, going on behind those high price tags for high SP fans that are efficient and quiet. If you look, the higher end ones will always take advantage of some mechanism to achieve their results... And most times it is adding surface area in some way. Not always. But most times.

Overall, you are grabbing and forcing more air into a given space, which is generally speaking, going to increase static pressure. Larger fans do not always run slower, but they will almost always produce more static pressure, unless the blade pitch/angle, tolerances between fan and frame, or power is significantly higher/more finely tuned than the larger fan.

 

[JackNaylorPE]

But Nomatter how you cut it, a larger surface area will produce higher SP (than the same fan but smaller).

Every way you cut it, this is incorrect.... there will be miniscule differences from fan size based upon size (120mm vs 140mm). All other things being equal, rpms is what produce more SP

Phanteks PH-F120SP_BK - 120mm, 1200 rpm fan
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F120SP.html
Static Pressure = 1.29 mm H2O

Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK - 140mm, 1200 rpm fan
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html
Static Pressure = 1.33mm H2O

Phanteks PH-F120MP_BK - 120mm, 1800 rpm fan
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F120MP.html
Static Pressure - 1.72 mm H2O

Phanteks PH-F140MP_BK - 140mm, 1600 rpm fan
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140MP.html
Static Pressure = 1.62 mm H2O

As most radiators today are low - mid range fpi, the use of high SP fans is not required. Only on high fpi applications, such as the case with most CLCs, do high SP fans have any benefit. This benefit is of course negated by the extreme noise produces by high rpm fans pushing high velocity thru vert tight spaces. Good explanation is given in video below


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL8DxuUth7U