Question HDD - no spinning and very quiet clicks (my ear should be 5 cm from the BOTTOM of the HDD)

Apr 23, 2024
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Hi! What do you think about very quiet clicks? What's in fault? In short:

1. Overvoltage
2. Dead HDD
2. Dead 5V diode
3. Removed the diode
4. HDD is working, copied 36% of files
5. One loud click and the HDD is dead again (doesn't spin)
6. Tried to connect/disconnect from a power cable several times, no spinning, no sounds
7. Next day I connected the HDD and it's working again, copied one tiny text file 35Kb - one loud click and the HDD is dead again
8. Placed it in the colder place (near a window)
9. Next day I shaked the HDD a little and connected the power cable several times from different positions, it started spinning when cables were at the bottom, I copied 1Gb of files holding the HDD with my hand in that particular position - one loud click and the HDD is dead again

Now it doesn't spin and if I place my ear on the HDD I hear very quiet clicks (2-3 clicks per second) but only from the bottom, they are so quiet that I don't hear them from the top of the HDD.

What's in fault here? I already have a donor on the way. I have a multimeter if you want me to measure something.
 
Solution
It sounds like the original PCB has a failed motor controller IC, in which case a repair would cost more than a replacement PCB.

BTW, you were very lucky with your donor PCB. Even drives that were manufactured hours apart on the same production line will usually have incompatible calibration data (aka "adaptives").

I would power up the original PCB on its own and use WDMarvel to dump the ROM. Then you will have a backup of the adaptives.

https://arch7rt.com/en/demo/
Apr 23, 2024
84
1
35
I bought a donor, manufacture date = 2 months difference, swapped the PCBs (no soldering) and copied almost all the files, the HDD is working fine. With the old PCB it's still the same, clicking and no spinning. I think the repairman soldered a wrong capacitor, maybe. (I removed the diode and the repairman replaced the capacitor - he told me that the capacitor is dead)

Any thoughts? I want to fix the old PCB
 
It sounds like the original PCB has a failed motor controller IC, in which case a repair would cost more than a replacement PCB.

BTW, you were very lucky with your donor PCB. Even drives that were manufactured hours apart on the same production line will usually have incompatible calibration data (aka "adaptives").

I would power up the original PCB on its own and use WDMarvel to dump the ROM. Then you will have a backup of the adaptives.

https://arch7rt.com/en/demo/
 
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Solution
Apr 23, 2024
84
1
35
BTW, you were very lucky with your donor PCB. Even drives that were manufactured hours apart on the same production line will usually have incompatible calibration data (aka "adaptives").
I was very suprised too.
(I removed the diode and the repairman replaced the capacitor - he told me that the capacitor is dead)
I'm sorry, I was talking about the resistor (R67), not a capacitor. I have a feeling that the repairman was very dumb and removed a working resistor or placed a wrong resistor. What do you think?
RBPGt1Z.jpeg
7ei8Y4e.jpeg

Also without your help I would be clueless, thank you!
 
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