Question HDMI signal not outputting from PC

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ApocryphalAnon

ApocryphalAnon

Sep 17, 2023
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Hi, this is my first post so tell me if I'm doing this incorrectly. My PC has been out of commission for roughly a week, it has not been sending a signal through the HDMI cable. I know that the HDMI cable works not to mention I know the monitor works. The HDMI port does not look damaged and I connected the HDMI cable to the GPU rather than the motherboard albeit I have tried using every single port on the monitor and PC. Because of this, I can't access a display and therefore can't even attempt to fix it software wise. I suspect that the issue is to do with the drivers or something since two days before I had this issue, I reset my BIOS and all the hardware is functional(to my knowledge). I'm currently looking for a way where I can reset the drivers on my PC without having to wipe the data off my Hard drive, if that is inevitable, I would at least want to know how I could back up the hard drive without a display 😅. As for the screen on the monitor, it just displays "NO SIGNAL" on a blue screen meaning that BIOS isn't even loading since if it was, the screen would flicker black.

If anyone has any advice for this please let me know. I'm currently attempting to contact the people who've made the PCI
 
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If your screws look like Phillips but Phillips don't fit those are probably Star keys (I think they are called) and come in a range of sizes. The easiest thing to use is a small flat blade common screwdriver that fits into 2 of the grooves. I have a Husky tool with 4 different bits, 2 different sizes on each bit. $7 or $8 at Home Depot.

Also, power or SATA plugs on the HDDs, UNPLUG BOTH. When you go to re-plug you can't get them wrong.
 
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plausible_deniability said:
If your screws look like Phillips but Phillips don't fit those are probably Star keys (I think they are called) and come in a range of sizes. The easiest thing to use is a small flat blade common screwdriver that fits into 2 of the grooves. I have a Husky tool with 4 different bits, 2 different sizes on each bit. $7 or $8 at Home Depot.

Also, power or SATA plugs on the HDDs, UNPLUG BOTH. When you go to re-plug you can't get them wrong.
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Thanks but I have star keys and I tried them and they didn't work... I'm not sure about the flat blade thing as well since that's likely to go out badly for me... One slip and I damage the motherboard. Currently I'm just trying to replug the connectors to see if me removing the SATA for the HDD actually made a difference.
 
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ApocryphalAnon said:
Yep. I also tried 5
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The image you posted is very blurry but it looks like a square Robertson screw to me.
PSS10008-2__35026.1541122101.jpg
 
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I just looked at the screw head under magnification. (didn't realize that was a screw head) The hole is not round Clearly it has 4 sides. If the metal is not real good quality a Phillips could round a square hole.
NOTE - if it was round, there would be no way of inserting or removing the screw. Nothing to grip to force it to turn. Even security screws meant to deter removal have angled teeth to aid in insertion. A round hole means in with small vise-grips/pliers and out with the same. (done that) A round hole = nonsensical.
 
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plausible_deniability said:
I just looked at the screw head under magnification. (didn't realize that was a screw head) The hole is not round Clearly it has 4 sides. If the metal is not real good quality a Phillips could round a square hole.
NOTE - if it was round, there would be no way of inserting or removing the screw. Nothing to grip to force it to turn. Even security screws meant to deter removal have angled teeth to aid in insertion. A round hole means in with small vise-grips/pliers and out with the same. (done that) A round hole = nonsensical.
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It is round I don't know what to tell you bro. I'm unsure as to why you think you can see it better than me. It does not clearly have 4 sides that is a figment of your imagination respectfully. It's a rivet which means that it's not meant to be deconstructed, the only way is with a drill.
 
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When you cleared the CMOS, assuming it worked, the primary display would have reverted back to the IGX.
Does your Asus have a button to clear CMOS? I would use the Real Time Clock pins after removing the battery, after removing the power cord and pushing the on button 3 or 4 times to dissipate any unused electricity. Then remove battery, then short or place jumper on the 2 pins CMOSRTC. If shorting with coat-hanger or screwdriver only touch the 2 pins nothing else for at least 10 seconds. Re-insert battery, attach power cord. When starting hit delete to enter BIOS
 
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plausible_deniability said:
When you cleared the CMOS, assuming it worked, the primary display would have reverted back to the IGX.
Does your Asus have a button to clear CMOS? I would use the Real Time Clock pins after removing the battery, after removing the power cord and pushing the on button 3 or 4 times to dissipate any unused electricity. Then remove battery, then short or place jumper on the 2 pins CMOSRTC. If shorting with coat-hanger or screwdriver only touch the 2 pins nothing else for at least 10 seconds. Re-insert battery, attach power cord. When starting hit delete to enter BIOS
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Yep did that several time as well as replaced battery, does not work
 
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Typically HDD screw holes don't go all the way through so how do these rivets work w/o going from one side of the HDD to the other? I figured it out, the JFK theory of case building. The Magic Rivet. T he HDD would have to be installed from the grassy knoll. It could work. You did say this was a Zabruder model case, right?
 
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plausible_deniability said:
Typically HDD screw holes don't go all the way through so how do these rivets work w/o going from one side of the HDD to the other? I figured it out, the JFK theory of case building. The Magic Rivet. T he HDD would have to be installed from the grassy knoll. It could work. You did say this was a Zabruder model case, right?
Click to expand...
No it's a Tecware. Rivets don't go through a case, they go parallel
 
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